How to Paint Empire of Man

Halved state uniforms, slashed sleeves and honest steel

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Painting ratings are our judgement, with the reasoning on the comparison page; prices are live and dated.

Recommended recipe

How the scheme reads on a model

Armour — base to highlight

Base coat
Shade
Layer
Highlight
Edge highlight

Additional details

Trim
Weapons
Leather
Skin
Lenses
Basing
Provincial slash cloth
Buff leather & wood
2

Shade

Wash the recesses to add depth and separate the details.

3

Layer

Rebuild the main colour on the raised areas, leaving the shade in the cracks.

5

Edge highlight

Sharpen only the sharpest edges for a crisp, finished look.

Details & accent colours

Everything else on the model - metals, skin, leather, lenses, basing and this faction's signature accents.

Metal — trim

Trim and bare plate. Basecoat steel, wash dark, then edge bright silver.

Leather & pouches

Straps, holsters and bare wood. Mid brown, shaded, then drybrushed a lighter tan.

Skin & flesh

Faces and hands. Basecoat, a flesh wash into the recesses, then build the highlights back up.

Eyes & lenses

Lenses, eyes and energy. A bright spot colour that pops against the armour - dot it on and add a white glint.

Basing — earth

Groundwork. Earth basecoat, drybrushed bone, finished with your choice of grass, sand or snow.

Provincial slash cloth

Every province pairs its colour with a second - Reikland red with off-white, Averland yellow with black. Paint the sleeve slashes and hose in that second colour and the regiment reads at a glance.

Buff leather & wood

Jerkins, belts and halberd hafts in tan and pale wood - the cheap kit that makes a uniform look issued rather than parade-ground.

Buy It as a Box

Paint sets that cover this recipe - a set is usually cheaper than buying pots one by one.

Covers 10 of 13 paints in this scheme (77%) — base coat, shade, layer, highlight and more.

Or cover 92% of the recipe with 2 boxes:

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Your paints

Tick off what's already on your shelf — whatever's left is your shopping list.

13 paints in this scheme

Price this recipe

13 paints

totals excl. delivery · affiliate links

  • Mephiston Red

    Citadel (Warhammer Paints)

    £2.34at Wayland Games· priced 28 Aug
  • Seraph Red

    Vallejo

    £2.80at Wayland Games· priced 28 Aug
  • Flat Red

    Vallejo

    £2.36at Wayland Games· priced 28 Aug
  • German Orange

    Vallejo

    £2.36at Wayland Games· priced 28 Aug
  • Mocha

    Vallejo

    No price tracked yet
  • Grey Knights Steel

    Citadel (Warhammer Paints)

    £2.54at Model Workshop · eBay· priced 28 Aug
  • Iron Wolf

    Army Painter

    No price tracked yet
  • Owlbear Brown

    Army Painter

    No price tracked yet
  • Bestigor Flesh

    Citadel (Warhammer Paints)

    £2.34at Wayland Games· priced 28 Aug
  • Aquamarine

    Army Painter

    £2.88at Wayland Games· priced 28 Aug
  • Graveyard Earth

    Citadel (Warhammer Paints)

    No price tracked yet
  • Wraithbone

    Citadel (Warhammer Paints)

    £2.34at Wayland Games· priced 28 Aug
  • Desert Brown

    Vallejo

    £2.20at Model Workshop · eBay· priced 28 Aug

Every Empire of Man kit and box, priced

Prices compared across the shops that stock them — boxes ranked by cost per model.

The Empire has the most decorative rank and file in fantasy: Renaissance landsknecht uniforms with halved hose, slashed sleeves, feathered hats and a halberd. It looks intimidating and it is not, because almost all of that detail is two colours meeting on a hard edge. If you can paint a straight line down a leg, you can paint a state regiment.

Pick your province before you pick your paints, because the province is the recipe. Altdorf is red and blue, Nuln black and white, Averland yellow and black, Middenheim blue and white, Talabecland red and yellow, Ostland white and black, Stirland green and yellow, Reikland red and cream. This guide works through Altdorf red and blue; swap the two colours for any other state and nothing else changes.

The signature look

A soldier split down the middle. Left leg one state colour, right leg the other; sleeves reversed so the colours cross diagonally over the body. Cream or off-white lining shows through the slashes in the sleeves and breeches. Everything else - leather, steel, wood, flesh - is deliberately drab so the halving reads at arm's length.

Decide your handedness rule once (say, red on the model's right leg and left sleeve) and apply it to every model in the unit. An inconsistent regiment looks like a mistake; a consistent one looks like a uniform.

The red half

  1. Basecoat Khorne Red, two thin coats.
  2. Shade the folds with Carroburg Crimson. It keeps the shadow red; Agrax Earthshade browns it, which suits a campaign-worn regiment if that is what you want.
  3. Layer Mephiston Red on the raised cloth.
  4. Highlight Evil Sunz Scarlet along the fold tops, then a final thin catch of Wild Rider Red on characters and the command group only.

The blue half

  1. Basecoat Kantor Blue.
  2. Shade Drakenhof Nightshade.
  3. Layer Macragge Blue, then Altdorf Guard Blue on the raised folds.
  4. Edge-highlight Calgar Blue.

Vallejo painters can run Bloody Red and Imperial Blue into Magic Blue; Army Painter Fanatic gives Dragon Red and Deep Blue into Crystal Blue.

Puff-and-slash sleeves

The slashes are gaps in the outer fabric with a lining colour showing through, and the trick is to paint them in the opposite order to the one that seems obvious.

  1. Block the whole sleeve in the lining colour - Ushabti Bone for a warm cream, Rakarth Flesh for a cooler one.
  2. Shade the lining with Agrax Earthshade so the gaps already have depth before you cover anything.
  3. Cut the state colour back over the sleeve in stripes, leaving the lining showing in the slash gaps. Follow the direction the sculptor gave the puff; the stripes should bulge, not run dead straight.
  4. Highlight each puff of the state colour on its top curve, and touch Screaming Skull onto the brightest edge of the exposed lining.

Cutting a dark colour over cream takes one pass. Painting cream into a dark gap takes three and never looks clean, which is why so many half-finished Empire regiments have muddy sleeves.

Leather, steel, wood and flesh

  • Leather belts, boots and straps: Rhinox Hide, shaded Agrax Earthshade, layered Mournfang Brown, edged Skrag Brown.
  • Steel: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil, Ironbreaker on the edges, Runefang Steel on the halberd blade. Blackened helmets and breastplates are Abaddon Black drybrushed Eshin Grey, which reads as cheap state-issue armour rather than knightly plate.
  • Brass fittings, buckles and handgun furniture: Balthasar Gold, Agrax Earthshade, Sycorax Bronze.
  • Wooden hafts and stocks: Gorthor Brown, Agrax Earthshade, drybrushed Baneblade Brown. Wyldwood in one coat is just as good on a rank-and-file haft.
  • Faces: Bugman's Glow, Reikland Fleshshade, Cadian Fleshtone, then Kislev Flesh on the nose, brow and cheekbones.

The fast state regiment

Undercoat Wraithbone, then one coat each of Blood Angels Red and Ultramarines Blue on the halves, Snakebite Leather on the leather, Basilicanum Grey over the steel and Wyldwood on the wood. Tidy the lining back to Ushabti Bone with a fine brush and highlight nothing else. That produces a convincing twenty-man regiment in a fraction of the time, and the halving does so much visual work that the shortcuts do not show at rank distance.

Tips and common mistakes

  • Pick a state and stay in it. Mixed provinces in one regiment is the commonest Empire mistake, and it makes a unit look unpainted rather than varied.
  • Cut dark over light, never light over dark. True of the sleeves, the halving line and the hat feathers.
  • Keep the lining colour constant across the whole army, even when the state colours change. It is the thread that holds a mixed force together.
  • Feathers are free character. A hat feather in Averland Sunset or White Scar costs one minute and lifts a rank-and-file model enormously.
  • Do not halve everything. Hose and sleeves are halved; hats, boots, leather and steel stay common. Halving the whole model turns a uniform into a harlequin.

When you are happy with the palette, open this scheme in the generator to swap paints between brands, nudge the mood or add a secondary colour.

Recipes are generated by perceptual colour matching against our cross-brand paint database. Use them as a strong starting point and test paints in person when precision matters.