[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"faction-/factions/wood-elf-realms":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"date":373,"description":374,"extension":375,"faction":376,"heroImage":377,"hex":378,"intro":379,"lastUpdated":373,"meta":380,"navigation":381,"path":382,"seo":383,"stem":384,"system":385,"__hash__":386},"factions/factions/wood-elf-realms.md","How to Paint Wood Elf Realms",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":362},"minimark",[9,13,16,21,24,28,31,72,99,106,110,113,156,159,163,190,212,228,246,250,283,298,302,318,322,354],[10,11,12],"p",{},"Wood Elves are the army where the base is half the model. Everything about the scheme - the greens, the browns, the one flash of autumn - only works because it sits on a forest floor, and a Glade Guard on bare plastic looks like a man in a green coat. Plan the basing before you open the first pot, and the rest of the army becomes much easier to judge.",[10,14,15],{},"The other thing to decide early is which season you are painting. Deep summer Athel Loren is dark green and near-monochrome; autumn is russet, gold and brown with green only in the shadows. Both look superb. Mixing them across a warhost looks like indecision.",[17,18,20],"h2",{"id":19},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[10,22,23],{},"Layered greens on cloaks and tunics - not one green, three or four - with warm brown leather, bark-toned wood, pale elven skin, and a single autumn colour used sparingly on cloak linings, leaf motifs, plumes and fletchings. Bronze rather than gold for jewellery, usually with a touch of verdigris. Nothing on a Wood Elf should look manufactured.",[17,25,27],{"id":26},"the-forest-greens","The forest greens",[10,29,30],{},"The vivid Athel Loren green, for cloaks and tunics:",[32,33,34,43,54,61],"ol",{},[35,36,37,38,42],"li",{},"Basecoat ",[39,40,41],"strong",{},"Caliban Green",", two thin coats.",[35,44,45,46,49,50,53],{},"Shade ",[39,47,48],{},"Biel-Tan Green"," in the recesses, or ",[39,51,52],{},"Agrax Earthshade"," if you want the shadows warmer and more earthy.",[35,55,56,57,60],{},"Layer ",[39,58,59],{},"Warpstone Glow"," across the raised folds.",[35,62,63,64,67,68,71],{},"Highlight ",[39,65,66],{},"Moot Green"," on the topmost edges, with a final ",[39,69,70],{},"Nurgling Green"," catch on characters only.",[10,73,74,75,78,79,82,83,86,87,90,91,94,95,98],{},"For a muted, camouflaged green that reads more like a scout than a swordsman, run ",[39,76,77],{},"Deathworld Forest",", shade ",[39,80,81],{},"Athonian Camoshade",", layer ",[39,84,85],{},"Elysian Green"," and highlight ",[39,88,89],{},"Ogryn Camo",". ",[39,92,93],{},"Loren Forest"," and ",[39,96,97],{},"Straken Green"," slot into the same ramp if you want an intermediate step.",[10,100,101,102,105],{},"The trick is to use both ramps in the same unit. Cloak in the vivid green, tunic in the muted one, hood in a third - ",[39,103,104],{},"Castellan Green"," works well as the darkest of the three. A rank of archers painted in one flat green looks like a uniform, and these are not soldiers.",[17,107,109],{"id":108},"autumn-as-a-spot-colour","Autumn as a spot colour",[10,111,112],{},"Cloak linings, leaf ornament, plumes and arrow fletchings carry the warm colour:",[114,115,116,133,144],"ul",{},[35,117,118,119,78,122,82,125,128,129,132],{},"Bright autumn - ",[39,120,121],{},"Skrag Brown",[39,123,124],{},"Fuegan Orange",[39,126,127],{},"Troll Slayer Orange",", highlight ",[39,130,131],{},"Fire Dragon Bright",".",[35,134,135,136,78,139,82,141,132],{},"Deep russet - ",[39,137,138],{},"Mephiston Red",[39,140,52],{},[39,142,143],{},"Wild Rider Red",[35,145,146,147,78,150,82,153,132],{},"Gold-leaf - ",[39,148,149],{},"Zamesi Desert",[39,151,152],{},"Casandora Yellow",[39,154,155],{},"Flash Gitz Yellow",[10,157,158],{},"Keep it to roughly a tenth of the model. The whole point of the spot colour is that the eye lands on it, and it stops working the moment there are three of them.",[17,160,162],{"id":161},"bark-leather-and-bronze","Bark, leather and bronze",[10,164,165,166,169,170,172,173,176,177,180,181,183,184,189],{},"Wood, bows, staves and Dryad limbs: ",[39,167,168],{},"Dryad Bark",", wash ",[39,171,52],{},", drybrush ",[39,174,175],{},"Gorthor Brown"," along the grain, then a light pass of ",[39,178,179],{},"Karak Stone"," on the raised bark. Add a stipple of ",[39,182,70],{}," in the crevices as moss. ",[185,186,188],"a",{"href":187},"/guides/drybrushing","Drybrushing"," is doing nearly all the work on Treemen and Dryads, and they are quick as a result.",[10,191,192,193,196,197,199,200,203,204,207,208,211],{},"Leather, belts and boots: ",[39,194,195],{},"Rhinox Hide",", ",[39,198,52],{},", then ",[39,201,202],{},"Mournfang Brown"," on the raised edges. Fletchings in ",[39,205,206],{},"Zandri Dust"," into ",[39,209,210],{},"Ushabti Bone"," read clearly against the dark green.",[10,213,214,215,196,218,196,220,223,224,227],{},"Jewellery, torcs and glade banner fittings: ",[39,216,217],{},"Warplock Bronze",[39,219,52],{},[39,221,222],{},"Sycorax Bronze"," on the edges, and a small amount of ",[39,225,226],{},"Nihilakh Oxide"," stippled into the recesses. Bronze with verdigris says \"grown here\" in a way that clean gold never does.",[10,229,230,231,196,234,237,238,241,242,245],{},"Skin stays pale and cool: ",[39,232,233],{},"Rakarth Flesh",[39,235,236],{},"Reikland Fleshshade",", up to ",[39,239,240],{},"Pallid Wych Flesh",", with ",[39,243,244],{},"Kislev Flesh"," on the lips and knuckles.",[17,247,249],{"id":248},"the-fast-route","The fast route",[10,251,252,253,256,257,260,261,264,265,268,269,272,273,276,277,279,280,282],{},"Undercoat ",[39,254,255],{},"Wraithbone"," and let contrast paints do the ramp. ",[39,258,259],{},"Militarum Green"," over the cloaks, ",[39,262,263],{},"Wyldwood"," on all the wood and bark, ",[39,266,267],{},"Snakebite Leather"," on straps and quivers, ",[39,270,271],{},"Gryph-hound Orange"," on the autumn leaves, ",[39,274,275],{},"Guilliman Flesh"," on the skin. Then go back with one drybrush of ",[39,278,179],{}," over the bark and one ",[39,281,66],{}," edge on the cloaks - two minutes that lift the whole thing off \"washed\" and onto \"painted\".",[10,284,285,286,196,289,196,292,94,295,132],{},"Army Painter shelves cover the same ground with ",[39,287,288],{},"Angel Green",[39,290,291],{},"Elf Green",[39,293,294],{},"Oak Brown",[39,296,297],{},"Lava Orange",[17,299,301],{"id":300},"basing","Basing",[10,303,304,305,172,307,309,310,312,313,317],{},"This is where the army is won. Build up texture paste or fine sand, paint it ",[39,306,195],{},[39,308,175],{}," and then ",[39,311,179],{},". Add static grass in two tones, a few clumps of dark foliage, and - the detail that sells it - leaf litter, either commercial punched leaves or tiny fragments torn from a dried tea leaf, glued in ones and twos rather than scattered. A couple of exposed roots made from twisted wire or offcuts of sprue, painted with the bark recipe, ties a Treeman's base to a Glade Guard's. The ",[185,314,316],{"href":315},"/guides/basing-miniatures","basing guide"," covers the texture work in more detail.",[17,319,321],{"id":320},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[114,323,324,330,336,342,348],{},[35,325,326,329],{},[39,327,328],{},"Three greens, not one."," The single most common Wood Elf mistake is painting cloak, tunic and base in the same pot. Value separation is what makes the model readable.",[35,331,332,335],{},[39,333,334],{},"Do not let the base go green too."," A green model on a green base disappears. Keep the ground brown and let the grass be an accent.",[35,337,338,341],{},[39,339,340],{},"Bronze, not gold."," Bright gold jewellery pulls these models towards a High Elf palette and away from the forest.",[35,343,344,347],{},[39,345,346],{},"Ration the orange."," One lining, one plume, the fletchings. That is the whole allowance.",[35,349,350,353],{},[39,351,352],{},"Matt varnish everything."," Any sheen on greens and browns reads as plastic immediately.",[10,355,356,357,361],{},"Try the balance of forest green and autumn in the ",[185,358,360],{"href":359},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=2e6b52","scheme generator"," before you commit the warhost.",{"title":363,"searchDepth":364,"depth":364,"links":365},"",2,[366,367,368,369,370,371,372],{"id":19,"depth":364,"text":20},{"id":26,"depth":364,"text":27},{"id":108,"depth":364,"text":109},{"id":161,"depth":364,"text":162},{"id":248,"depth":364,"text":249},{"id":300,"depth":364,"text":301},{"id":320,"depth":364,"text":321},"2026-09-03","How to paint Wood Elf Realms for The Old World - layered forest greens, autumn russet and orange as a spot colour, bark and leather browns, and basing that ties the whole warhost to Athel Loren.","md","Wood Elf Realms",null,"#2e6b52","Forest greens, autumn spot colour and bark-and-leaf basing",{},true,"/factions/wood-elf-realms",{"title":5,"description":374},"factions/wood-elf-realms","old-world","LFJPaXM_oMq7PuvQkjMBOZNJzFGFPE98EunAsyl-3jo"]