[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"faction-/factions/spyre-hunters":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"date":310,"description":311,"extension":312,"faction":313,"heroImage":314,"hex":315,"intro":316,"lastUpdated":310,"meta":317,"navigation":318,"path":319,"seo":320,"stem":321,"system":322,"__hash__":323},"factions/factions/spyre-hunters.md","How to Paint Spyre Hunters",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":300},"minimark",[9,13,16,21,24,28,31,79,94,98,101,138,154,158,161,191,194,198,201,222,251,254,258,291],[10,11,12],"p",{},"Spyre Hunters are the smallest gang in Necromunda and the most rewarding to paint slowly. There are only a handful of models in a crew, every one of them is a bespoke sculpt, and the whole look rests on one effect: a smooth, pale, faintly iridescent hunting rig with nothing dirty anywhere on it. Where the rest of the underhive is rust and patched leather, these are laboratory-clean.",[10,14,15],{},"That also means there is nowhere to hide. A pearlescent surface shows every brush mark, so thin your paints further than feels necessary and expect more coats.",[17,18,20],"h2",{"id":19},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[10,22,23],{},"Pale, cool, almost white armour plate with a soft blue-grey shadow and a hint of shifting colour across the panels, wrapped around a matt near-black bodyglove, with two or three small hot points of red or blue light at the optics and power cells. The contrast between a satin rig and a dead-flat suit is what makes the armour look polished - a model painted entirely in pale grey just looks unfinished.",[17,25,27],{"id":26},"the-pearlescent-plate","The pearlescent plate",[10,29,30],{},"This is the non-metallic route, and it gives the truest pearl.",[32,33,34,43,50,57,64],"ol",{},[35,36,37,38,42],"li",{},"Spray or basecoat ",[39,40,41],"strong",{},"Grey Seer"," and get it perfectly smooth. Everything after this depends on that surface.",[35,44,45,46,49],{},"Shade the panel lines and recesses with thinned ",[39,47,48],{},"Drakenhof Nightshade",". A cold blue shadow under a pale grey is the entire pearl illusion; a black or brown wash here makes it look like dirty plastic.",[35,51,52,53,56],{},"Layer ",[39,54,55],{},"Ulthuan Grey"," across the upper faces of each plate.",[35,58,59,60,63],{},"Edge-highlight ",[39,61,62],{},"White Scar"," on the top edges and the crest of each curve.",[35,65,66,67,70,71,74,75,78],{},"The pearl step: glaze very thin ",[39,68,69],{},"Ahriman Blue"," into a couple of panels, ",[39,72,73],{},"Volupus Pink"," into one or two others, and a breath of ",[39,76,77],{},"Nurgling Green"," somewhere low. Each glaze should be barely visible on its own. The shifting tint across neighbouring plates is what the eye reads as iridescence.",[10,80,81,82,85,86,89,90,93],{},"Vallejo ",[39,83,84],{},"Ghost Grey"," into ",[39,87,88],{},"Dead White",", or Army Painter ",[39,91,92],{},"Ash Grey"," into a white, cover the same ramp.",[17,95,97],{"id":96},"the-chrome-alternative","The chrome alternative",[10,99,100],{},"If you would rather have true metal:",[32,102,103,110,117,123,129],{},[35,104,105,106,109],{},"Gloss black undercoat, then basecoat ",[39,107,108],{},"Leadbelcher",". The gloss underneath is what gives metallic paint its shine.",[35,111,112,113,116],{},"Shade ",[39,114,115],{},"Nuln Oil"," into the recesses only - never over the whole plate, which is what turns chrome into pewter.",[35,118,52,119,122],{},[39,120,121],{},"Ironbreaker"," on the raised metal.",[35,124,59,125,128],{},[39,126,127],{},"Stormhost Silver",".",[35,130,131,132,134,135,137],{},"Glaze thinned ",[39,133,48],{}," across the flats to cool the steel, and ",[39,136,69],{}," over one or two panels for the same shifting effect as the pale route.",[10,139,81,140,143,144,89,147,85,150,153],{},[39,141,142],{},"Chain Mail Silver"," and ",[39,145,146],{},"Natural Steel",[39,148,149],{},"Plate Mail Metal",[39,151,152],{},"Mithral Silver",", substitute directly.",[17,155,157],{"id":156},"the-bodyglove","The bodyglove",[10,159,160],{},"The suit under the plate does the structural work, and it wants to be genuinely flat.",[32,162,163,169,175,182],{},[35,164,165,166,128],{},"Basecoat ",[39,167,168],{},"Abaddon Black",[35,170,52,171,174],{},[39,172,173],{},"Eshin Grey"," on the raised muscle and the tops of the limbs, keeping it tight.",[35,176,177,178,181],{},"A very restrained ",[39,179,180],{},"Dawnstone"," edge on the sharpest folds only.",[35,183,184,185,187,188,128],{},"Knock the whole thing back with thinned ",[39,186,115],{},", then matt varnish it with ",[39,189,190],{},"Munitorum Varnish",[10,192,193],{},"Resist highlighting this brightly. Every step you take the bodyglove towards grey, the rig loses shine by comparison.",[17,195,197],{"id":196},"lenses-and-energy-glows","Lenses and energy glows",[10,199,200],{},"The only warm colour on the model, so make it count.",[10,202,203,206,207,210,211,214,215,218,219,221],{},[39,204,205],{},"Red optics and power cells:"," ",[39,208,209],{},"Khorne Red"," in the recess, ",[39,212,213],{},"Evil Sunz Scarlet"," across the middle, ",[39,216,217],{},"Wild Rider Red"," at the lower edge, a ",[39,220,62],{}," dot in the top corner, then gloss varnish just the lens.",[10,223,224,206,227,230,231,234,235,238,239,241,242,85,245,85,248,128],{},[39,225,226],{},"Blue energy fields and blades:",[39,228,229],{},"Kantor Blue"," at the base of the effect, ",[39,232,233],{},"Calgar Blue"," through the middle, ",[39,236,237],{},"Baharroth Blue"," near the edge, and a thin ",[39,240,62],{}," line along the very edge. For a toxic green instead, run ",[39,243,244],{},"Kabalite Green",[39,246,247],{},"Sybarite Green",[39,249,250],{},"Moot Green",[10,252,253],{},"A faint glaze of the glow colour onto the plate immediately around the lens sells it as light rather than paint. Keep that to a couple of millimetres.",[17,255,257],{"id":256},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[259,260,261,267,273,279,285],"ul",{},[35,262,263,266],{},[39,264,265],{},"Thin everything, twice as much as usual."," Smooth pale armour records every ridge of paint.",[35,268,269,272],{},[39,270,271],{},"Do not wash the whole rig."," Shade the panel lines with a brush. An all-over wash instantly turns a polished hunting rig into a grubby one.",[35,274,275,278],{},[39,276,277],{},"Never weather these."," No chips, no rust, no mud past the base rim. The gang's whole identity is that they arrived from the spire and did not touch anything.",[35,280,281,284],{},[39,282,283],{},"Keep the glows small."," Three little hot points on a cool model is striking; six is a lightshow.",[35,286,287,290],{},[39,288,289],{},"Work in sub-assemblies."," These rigs have deep recesses behind limbs and cabling - painting them assembled costs you more time than the pinning saves.",[10,292,293,294,299],{},"When the palette is where you want it, ",[295,296,298],"a",{"href":297},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=B8BFC7","open this scheme in the generator"," to swap brands or push the rig warmer towards gold.",{"title":301,"searchDepth":302,"depth":302,"links":303},"",2,[304,305,306,307,308,309],{"id":19,"depth":302,"text":20},{"id":26,"depth":302,"text":27},{"id":96,"depth":302,"text":97},{"id":156,"depth":302,"text":157},{"id":196,"depth":302,"text":197},{"id":256,"depth":302,"text":257},"2026-09-03","A guide to painting Spyre Hunters for Necromunda - sleek pearlescent hunting rigs in pale chrome, a matt black bodyglove underneath, and bright lens and energy glows.","md","Spyre Hunters",null,"#B8BFC7","Polished hunting rigs, matt black bodygloves and hot little glows",{},true,"/factions/spyre-hunters",{"title":5,"description":311},"factions/spyre-hunters","necromunda","GNr52IxcTgrT2-yqC9MyescOF51YLWBoVhgNf2PX5dA"]