[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"faction-/factions/ironhead-squat-prospectors":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"date":372,"description":373,"extension":374,"faction":375,"heroImage":376,"hex":377,"intro":378,"lastUpdated":372,"meta":379,"navigation":380,"path":381,"seo":382,"stem":383,"system":384,"__hash__":385},"factions/factions/ironhead-squat-prospectors.md","How to Paint Ironhead Squat Prospectors",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":361},"minimark",[9,13,18,21,25,28,80,106,110,126,130,148,166,195,199,217,220,281,290,294,315,319,353],[10,11,12],"p",{},"Ironheads are industrial workwear, not armour. The look you are after is a mining crew that happens to be armed: hi-vis panels bolted over dark, oily plate, brass fittings gone dull, and honest wear on everything that touches rock. That means the weathering is not optional decoration here - it is what separates a Prospector from a yellow Space Marine.",[14,15,17],"h2",{"id":16},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[10,19,20],{},"Bright safety yellow on the panels a foreman wants seen - shoulder plates, helmet, rig collar, drill housing - over a dark grey or near-black bodysuit and machinery. Brass and bronze on pipework, buckles and lamp housings. Skin ruddy and weathered, beards in every colour a beard comes in. Dust in the lower third of every model.",[14,22,24],{"id":23},"the-hi-vis-yellow","The hi-vis yellow",[10,26,27],{},"Yellow is the difficulty in this scheme and all of it comes down to the undercoat. Yellow over black needs five coats and still looks olive in the recesses.",[29,30,31,44,51,62,69],"ol",{},[32,33,34,35,39,40,43],"li",{},"Undercoat ",[36,37,38],"strong",{},"Wraithbone",", or spray the model black and then zenithal ",[36,41,42],{},"Grey Seer"," from above. Either gives yellow something bright to sit on.",[32,45,46,47,50],{},"Basecoat ",[36,48,49],{},"Averland Sunset",", two thin coats. It is a warm ochre-yellow rather than a lemon, and it is deliberately duller than the finished panel.",[32,52,53,54,57,58,61],{},"Shade the panel lines and rivets with ",[36,55,56],{},"Casandora Yellow",". For a warmer, more worn look use ",[36,59,60],{},"Seraphim Sepia"," instead - on a mining rig that reads as grease.",[32,63,64,65,68],{},"Layer ",[36,66,67],{},"Yriel Yellow"," over the raised faces, leaving the shade in the recesses.",[32,70,71,72,75,76,79],{},"Highlight ",[36,73,74],{},"Flash Gitz Yellow"," along the top edges, then a final sparing catch of ",[36,77,78],{},"Screaming Skull"," on the sharpest corners only.",[10,81,82,83,86,87,86,90,93,94,97,98,101,102,105],{},"Vallejo painters can run ",[36,84,85],{},"Yellow Ochre",", ",[36,88,89],{},"Gold Yellow",[36,91,92],{},"Sunblast Yellow"," and ",[36,95,96],{},"Deep Yellow"," through the same ramp. Army Painter Fanatic gives you ",[36,99,100],{},"Daemonic Yellow"," with ",[36,103,104],{},"Lava Orange"," for the warm shadows.",[14,107,109],{"id":108},"the-fast-route","The fast route",[10,111,34,112,114,115,118,119,122,123,125],{},[36,113,38],{}," and put a single coat of ",[36,116,117],{},"Iyanden Yellow"," contrast on every hi-vis panel. It shades and colours in one pass and lands very close to the studio scheme. If you want the deeper, more orange-gold cast that suits Exo-kyn and the heavy rigs, use ",[36,120,121],{},"Nazdreg Yellow"," instead. Either way, one ",[36,124,74],{}," edge afterwards lifts it considerably for about a minute of work per model.",[14,127,129],{"id":128},"dark-plate-brass-and-machinery","Dark plate, brass and machinery",[10,131,132,135,136,139,140,143,144,147],{},[36,133,134],{},"The dark underlayer:"," basecoat ",[36,137,138],{},"Abaddon Black",", drybrush lightly with ",[36,141,142],{},"Eshin Grey",", then edge with ",[36,145,146],{},"Dawnstone",". Keep it dark - the value gap between the black plate and the yellow panels is what makes the hi-vis look hi-vis.",[10,149,150,153,154,157,158,161,162,165],{},[36,151,152],{},"Exposed machinery, drills and pistons:"," ",[36,155,156],{},"Leadbelcher",", shaded ",[36,159,160],{},"Nuln Oil",", edged ",[36,163,164],{},"Runefang Steel",". Ironhead gear is worked hardware, so let the shade pool in the joints.",[10,167,168,135,171,174,175,178,179,182,183,186,187,190,191,194],{},[36,169,170],{},"Brass:",[36,172,173],{},"Balthasar Gold",", shade ",[36,176,177],{},"Agrax Earthshade",", layer ",[36,180,181],{},"Sycorax Bronze",", then a fine highlight of ",[36,184,185],{},"Runelord Brass"," on the raised edges. For pipework that has been damp for a century, stipple a very little ",[36,188,189],{},"Nurgling Green"," into the recesses, or glaze ",[36,192,193],{},"Nihilakh Oxide"," and wipe most of it back off.",[14,196,198],{"id":197},"faces-and-beards","Faces and beards",[10,200,201,202,157,205,208,209,212,213,216],{},"Skin: ",[36,203,204],{},"Bugman's Glow",[36,206,207],{},"Reikland Fleshshade",", layered ",[36,210,211],{},"Cadian Fleshtone",", highlighted ",[36,214,215],{},"Kislev Flesh"," on the nose, brow and cheekbones. Ironheads are outdoor workers, so let the ruddiness stay.",[10,218,219],{},"Beards are where you get variety in a gang of near-identical silhouettes, so paint each one differently:",[221,222,223,239,252,270],"ul",{},[32,224,225,228,229,174,232,234,235,238],{},[36,226,227],{},"Dark brown"," - ",[36,230,231],{},"Rhinox Hide",[36,233,177],{},", drybrush ",[36,236,237],{},"Mournfang Brown",".",[32,240,241,228,244,174,247,234,249,238],{},[36,242,243],{},"Ginger",[36,245,246],{},"Skrag Brown",[36,248,177],{},[36,250,251],{},"Fire Dragon Bright",[32,253,254,228,257,259,260,234,262,265,266,269],{},[36,255,256],{},"Grey and white",[36,258,146],{},", wash ",[36,261,160],{},[36,263,264],{},"Administratum Grey",", then ",[36,267,268],{},"Ulthuan Grey"," on the tips.",[32,271,272,228,275,277,278,280],{},[36,273,274],{},"Black",[36,276,138],{}," drybrushed ",[36,279,142],{},", which reads better than any true black at this scale.",[10,282,283,284,289],{},"Drybrushing is the right tool for all four: it catches the sculpted texture and takes seconds. The ",[285,286,288],"a",{"href":287},"/guides/drybrushing","drybrushing guide"," covers loading the brush properly if your results are coming out chalky.",[14,291,293],{"id":292},"weathering-the-rig","Weathering the rig",[10,295,296,297,299,300,302,303,306,307,310,311,314],{},"Do this last, and do it in this order. Sponge-chip the yellow panels with ",[36,298,231],{}," first, concentrating on edges and corners, then add a few smaller ",[36,301,156],{}," chips inside the brown ones - a chip that has gone through paint and primer to bare metal has a dark rim. Stipple ",[36,304,305],{},"Typhus Corrosion"," around bolt heads and the bases of pistons, then stipple ",[36,308,309],{},"Ryza Rust"," sparingly on top of it. Finally, drybrush ",[36,312,313],{},"Zandri Dust"," up the boots, shins and the underside of any rig, fading out about a third of the way up the model.",[14,316,318],{"id":317},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[221,320,321,327,333,339,345],{},[32,322,323,326],{},[36,324,325],{},"The undercoat decides the yellow."," No amount of extra coats fixes yellow applied over black. Bone or light grey first, every time.",[32,328,329,332],{},[36,330,331],{},"Do not chip everything."," Chipping reads as wear only where wear actually happens: leading edges, corners, knees, the mouth of a drill housing. Chips in the middle of a flat panel look like a mistake because they are one.",[32,334,335,338],{},[36,336,337],{},"Keep the dark plate genuinely dark."," Highlighting the black up to mid-grey kills the hi-vis contrast that the whole scheme is built on.",[32,340,341,344],{},[36,342,343],{},"Vary the beards, not the yellow."," The uniform panels are what makes them a crew; the faces are what makes them individuals.",[32,346,347,153,350,352],{},[36,348,349],{},"Two thin coats, then stop.",[36,351,49],{}," is thick and tempting to lay on heavily, and brush marks in yellow are extremely visible.",[10,354,355,356,360],{},"Once the palette suits you, ",[285,357,359],{"href":358},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=F2A20C","open this scheme in the generator"," to swap brands or try a hotter orange-yellow.",{"title":362,"searchDepth":363,"depth":363,"links":364},"",2,[365,366,367,368,369,370,371],{"id":16,"depth":363,"text":17},{"id":23,"depth":363,"text":24},{"id":108,"depth":363,"text":109},{"id":128,"depth":363,"text":129},{"id":197,"depth":363,"text":198},{"id":292,"depth":363,"text":293},{"id":317,"depth":363,"text":318},"2026-09-03","How to paint Ironhead Squat Prospectors for Necromunda - hi-vis mining yellow over dark plate, brass fittings, weathered rigs and a full range of beards.","md","Ironhead Squat Prospectors",null,"#F2A20C","Hi-vis yellow over dark plate, brass, rust and a lot of beard",{},true,"/factions/ironhead-squat-prospectors",{"title":5,"description":373},"factions/ironhead-squat-prospectors","necromunda","h4l1xFzRwIRnokutiH8tgnQg-u1JWRTwHerwGAC0EtI"]