[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"faction-/factions/house-van-saar":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"date":294,"description":295,"extension":296,"faction":297,"heroImage":298,"hex":299,"intro":300,"lastUpdated":294,"meta":301,"navigation":302,"path":303,"seo":304,"stem":305,"system":306,"__hash__":307},"factions/factions/house-van-saar.md","How to Paint House Van Saar",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":282},"minimark",[9,13,16,21,24,28,31,78,100,105,123,127,142,161,172,180,184,187,217,228,245,249],[10,11,12],"p",{},"Van Saar are the one Necromunda house you cannot speedpaint your way out of. The bodygloves are smooth, tight-fitting and almost featureless - no folds to catch a wash, no straps to hide a mistake - so every uneven basecoat and every wobbly highlight is on display. The upside is that the scheme is only three colours: a teal-cyan suit, dark panels, and cold metal, with glowing tech as the accent. Once the ramp is decided, each fighter is quick.",[10,14,15],{},"They are also the gang where a little object-source lighting pays off more than anywhere else. The whole aesthetic is \"dying men in radiation suits, lit from inside by their own equipment\".",[17,18,20],"h2",{"id":19},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[10,22,23],{},"A bright cyan-teal bodyglove, darkest in the recesses and almost white at the sharpest edges, with black or dark grey armour panels over it. Metal is clean and cold - these are the most technologically advanced house in the underhive and their gear works. The glow comes from lenses, power packs, rifle coils and grav-rig vents, always in the same cyan family as the suit so the model reads as one light source.",[17,25,27],{"id":26},"the-bodyglove","The bodyglove",[10,29,30],{},"Undercoat black. On a curved surface with no folds, the dark undercoat gives you the shadows for free.",[32,33,34,43,54,61,67],"ol",{},[35,36,37,38,42],"li",{},"Basecoat ",[39,40,41],"strong",{},"Stegadon Scale Green",", two thin coats. Thin is not optional here; a thick coat on a smooth bodyglove is instantly obvious.",[35,44,45,46,49,50,53],{},"Shade the joins, the armpits, the backs of the knees and the panel lines with ",[39,47,48],{},"Drakenhof Nightshade"," for a colder result, or ",[39,51,52],{},"Coelia Greenshade"," for a greener one.",[35,55,56,57,60],{},"Layer ",[39,58,59],{},"Sotek Green"," over everything except the recesses. This is the colour the gang will be recognised by.",[35,62,56,63,66],{},[39,64,65],{},"Temple Guard Blue"," on the upper surfaces - the front of the thighs, the top of the forearms, the chest and shoulders.",[35,68,69,70,73,74,77],{},"Edge-highlight ",[39,71,72],{},"Baharroth Blue"," along the sharpest boundaries, and on a champion add a final fine catch of ",[39,75,76],{},"Blue Horror"," on two or three edges.",[10,79,80,81,84,85,88,89,84,92,95,96,99],{},"Vallejo Game Color painters can run ",[39,82,83],{},"Dark Turquoise"," into ",[39,86,87],{},"Turquoise","; Army Painter Fanatic gives you ",[39,90,91],{},"Talisman Teal",[39,93,94],{},"Hydra Turquoise"," with ",[39,97,98],{},"Turquoise Siren"," on the edges.",[101,102,104],"h3",{"id":103},"the-fast-route","The fast route",[10,106,107,108,111,112,115,116,119,120,122],{},"Undercoat ",[39,109,110],{},"Grey Seer",", then one coat of ",[39,113,114],{},"Terradon Turquoise"," contrast over the bodyglove. For a bluer, colder gang use ",[39,117,118],{},"Talassar Blue"," instead. Edge-highlight ",[39,121,72],{}," and you are done. On a smooth surface contrast paints can dry blotchy, so work in one direction with a loaded brush and do not go back over a drying patch.",[17,124,126],{"id":125},"panels-metal-and-cabling","Panels, metal and cabling",[10,128,129,130,133,134,137,138,141],{},"Armour plates and the hard shells over shoulders and shins: ",[39,131,132],{},"Abaddon Black"," basecoat, ",[39,135,136],{},"Eshin Grey"," on the raised areas, a fine ",[39,139,140],{},"Dawnstone"," edge. Keeping these genuinely dark is what makes the cyan look bright.",[10,143,144,145,148,149,152,153,156,157,160],{},"Weapons and rig frames: ",[39,146,147],{},"Leadbelcher",", wash ",[39,150,151],{},"Nuln Oil",", edge ",[39,154,155],{},"Ironbreaker",", then ",[39,158,159],{},"Runefang Steel"," on the sharpest corners and the muzzle. Van Saar guns should look machined, so keep the highlights crisp and skip the rust entirely - they are the one gang who maintain their kit.",[10,162,163,164,167,168,171],{},"Gold is rare and reserved: ",[39,165,166],{},"Retributor Armour"," shaded ",[39,169,170],{},"Agrax Earthshade"," on a champion's fittings only.",[10,173,174,175,133,177,179],{},"Cabling and hoses read best in a near-black grey - ",[39,176,136],{},[39,178,140],{}," drybrush - so they separate from both the suit and the plates.",[17,181,183],{"id":182},"the-glow","The glow",[10,185,186],{},"This is what sells the gang. Pick your emitters first - rifle coils, power packs, the vents on an Arachni-rig, lenses - and keep them all the same colour.",[32,188,189,195,200,207,214],{},[35,190,191,192,194],{},"Basecoat the emitter ",[39,193,65],{},".",[35,196,56,197,199],{},[39,198,72],{}," across most of it.",[35,201,202,203,206],{},"Put pure ",[39,204,205],{},"White Scar"," in the very centre, where the light is brightest.",[35,208,209,210,213],{},"Glaze ",[39,211,212],{},"Aethermatic Blue"," contrast, thinned, outwards from the emitter onto the surrounding metal or suit for two or three millimetres. That spill is the whole trick.",[35,215,216],{},"Gloss varnish the emitter itself and leave everything around it matt.",[10,218,219,220,223,224,227],{},"For lenses and small crystals, a single drop of ",[39,221,222],{},"Soulstone Blue"," or ",[39,225,226],{},"Tesseract Glow"," technical paint over a light basecoat does the job in one step.",[10,229,230,231,234,235,234,238,234,241,244],{},"Faces are pale and drawn - Van Saar are dying of the radiation their own tech leaks. ",[39,232,233],{},"Rakarth Flesh",", ",[39,236,237],{},"Reikland Fleshshade",[39,239,240],{},"Pallid Wych Flesh",[39,242,243],{},"Screaming Skull",", and lean towards the grey end at every stage.",[17,246,248],{"id":247},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[250,251,252,258,264,270,276],"ul",{},[35,253,254,257],{},[39,255,256],{},"Thin the basecoat, then thin it again."," There is nowhere to hide on a bodyglove. Three thin coats beat two thick ones every time.",[35,259,260,263],{},[39,261,262],{},"Keep the panels black."," Every step you highlight the armour plates, the cyan loses a bit of its punch. Dark plates are the frame around the colour.",[35,265,266,269],{},[39,267,268],{},"One glow colour."," Cyan lenses, cyan coils, cyan vents. A green power pack and a blue lens on the same model reads as an accident.",[35,271,272,275],{},[39,273,274],{},"Do not weather them."," No rust, no chips, minimal dust. Van Saar are the clean gang, and mud fights everything else in the scheme.",[35,277,278,281],{},[39,279,280],{},"Highlight the edge, not the face of the plate."," On smooth surfaces a broad highlight looks like a smudge; a thin line looks like a hard edge catching the light.",{"title":283,"searchDepth":284,"depth":284,"links":285},"",2,[286,287,291,292,293],{"id":19,"depth":284,"text":20},{"id":26,"depth":284,"text":27,"children":288},[289],{"id":103,"depth":290,"text":104},3,{"id":125,"depth":284,"text":126},{"id":182,"depth":284,"text":183},{"id":247,"depth":284,"text":248},"2026-09-03","How to paint House Van Saar for Necromunda - the teal-cyan bodyglove recipe from basecoat to edge highlight, glowing tech panels and grav-rig lighting, plus a contrast route for the whole gang.","md","House Van Saar",null,"#1FA8C4","Teal-cyan bodygloves, cold clean metal and glowing tech",{},true,"/factions/house-van-saar",{"title":5,"description":295},"factions/house-van-saar","necromunda","407TFwoP_VtIxzg039Qrb3XO0vUim3lPINb2bFy0-FI"]