[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"factions-index":3},[4,110,189,279,518,844,923,1286,1473,1669,1759,2087,2416,2695,2982,3277,3603,3884,4171,4464,4775,5001,5216,5443,5692,5948,6023,6105,6199,6426,6634,6864,7189,7414,7696,7924,8010,8235,8308,8591,8667,8874,9078,9365,9651,9876,10154,10430,10712,10952,11296,11508,11599,11815,12039,12340,12422,12703,12821,13110,13249,13397,13830,13920,14160,14288,14833,14939,15018,15254,15497,15788,15915,16093,16168,16424,16809,16881,16977,17068,17312,17454,17670,17920,18048,18128,18382,18464,18548,18622,18696,18973,19080,19191,19311,19419,19520,19629,19724,19939,20258,20337,20630],{"id":5,"title":6,"body":7,"date":96,"description":97,"extension":98,"faction":99,"heroImage":100,"hex":101,"intro":102,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":103,"navigation":104,"path":105,"seo":106,"stem":107,"system":108,"__hash__":109},"factions/factions/adepta-sororitas.md","How to Paint Adepta Sororitas",{"type":8,"value":9,"toc":87},"minimark",[10,14,19,22,26,29,33,56,60,63,67],[11,12,13],"p",{},"The Adepta Sororitas - Sisters of Battle - are an ornate, characterful army. The most common scheme, the Order of Our Martyred Lady, is black armour with red, gold and bone, giving a striking high-contrast look across detailed, robed models.",[15,16,18],"h2",{"id":17},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[11,20,21],{},"Black power armour, deep red robes and cloth, gold trim and aquilas, and bone or white tabards and parchment. The black needs lifting with highlights, and the red and gold provide the colour that makes the army sing.",[15,23,25],{"id":24},"painting-the-black-armour","Painting the black armour",[11,27,28],{},"As with any black scheme, flat black reads as a silhouette. Edge highlight with a cool grey-blue, keeping the lines crisp on the angular armour. A zenithal undercoat makes this far easier.",[15,30,32],{"id":31},"robes-gold-and-bone","Robes, gold and bone",[34,35,36,44,50],"ul",{},[37,38,39,43],"li",{},[40,41,42],"strong",{},"Red robes"," - a red contrast or a mid-red basecoat, shaded and highlighted; keep them rich.",[37,45,46,49],{},[40,47,48],{},"Gold"," - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight - the trim is everywhere on these models.",[37,51,52,55],{},[40,53,54],{},"Bone"," - parchment and tabards built from brown up to cream, shaded with brown.",[15,57,59],{"id":58},"order-variations","Order variations",[11,61,62],{},"Swap the robe/armour colours for other orders: Valorous Heart (black/red), Ebon Chalice (black/gold), Bloody Rose (red), Argent Shroud (silver/red), Sacred Rose (white).",[15,64,66],{"id":65},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[34,68,69,75,81],{},[37,70,71,74],{},[40,72,73],{},"Lift the black."," Edge highlights stop the armour disappearing.",[37,76,77,80],{},[40,78,79],{},"Lots of trim."," Washed gold does most of the detail work for you.",[37,82,83,86],{},[40,84,85],{},"Keep robes rich."," A glaze of red over the shaded cloth deepens it nicely.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":90},"",2,[91,92,93,94,95],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":24,"depth":89,"text":25},{"id":31,"depth":89,"text":32},{"id":58,"depth":89,"text":59},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"2026-06-28","How to paint the Adepta Sororitas (Sisters of Battle) - the black power armour of the Order of Our Martyred Lady, with red, gold and bone detailing.","md","Adepta Sororitas","/images/factions/adepta-sororitas.webp","#1b1b1e","Black armour, red robes, gold and bone - the Sisters of Battle",{},true,"/factions/adepta-sororitas",{"title":6,"description":97},"factions/adepta-sororitas","40k","lhmYlhU3xyJjlKQPuFDAbxEq_eF3f6Exdr90iJ06LNs",{"id":111,"title":112,"body":113,"date":96,"description":179,"extension":98,"faction":180,"heroImage":181,"hex":182,"intro":183,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":184,"navigation":104,"path":185,"seo":186,"stem":187,"system":108,"__hash__":188},"factions/factions/adeptus-custodes.md","How to Paint Adeptus Custodes",{"type":8,"value":114,"toc":173},[115,118,120,123,127,130,144,148,151,153],[11,116,117],{},"Custodes are a small, elite army where every model is a centrepiece, so it is worth slowing down and getting the gold to look genuinely rich. The low model count means you can spend the time that a horde army never allows.",[15,119,18],{"id":17},[11,121,122],{},"Almost entirely gold armour with red and black detailing, blue or red plumes, and ornate trim. The gold has to carry the model, so depth - dark recesses up to bright highlights - is everything.",[15,124,126],{"id":125},"painting-the-gold","Painting the gold",[11,128,129],{},"Two approaches:",[34,131,132,138],{},[37,133,134,137],{},[40,135,136],{},"Metallic gold (easier)."," Basecoat a rich gold, shade heavily with a brown/sepia wash plus targeted dark recesses, then highlight edges with brighter gold and a final silver touch on the sharpest points. The contrast between deep brown recesses and bright edges is what sells it.",[37,139,140,143],{},[40,141,142],{},"Non-metallic metal, NMM (advanced)."," Paint the \"metal\" with browns, yellows and creams to fake reflections. Stunning but time-consuming - save it for characters.",[15,145,147],{"id":146},"accents","Accents",[11,149,150],{},"Red and black panels, gilded laurels, and coloured plumes break up the gold. Keep them clean and deliberate - on such a rich base, sloppy accents stand out.",[15,152,66],{"id":65},[34,154,155,161,167],{},[37,156,157,160],{},[40,158,159],{},"Shade gold deeply."," Flat gold looks like brass; deep recesses make it look like gold.",[37,162,163,166],{},[40,164,165],{},"Take your time."," With so few models, each one deserves character-level effort.",[37,168,169,172],{},[40,170,171],{},"Vary the metallics."," A slightly different gold on trim vs plates adds richness.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":174},[175,176,177,178],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":125,"depth":89,"text":126},{"id":146,"depth":89,"text":147},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Adeptus Custodes - rich gold armour done properly with metallics or non-metallic gold, plus red accents and a small elite model count.","Adeptus Custodes","/images/factions/adeptus-custodes.webp","#b8860b","Rich gold armour, done with metallics or NMM",{},"/factions/adeptus-custodes",{"title":112,"description":179},"factions/adeptus-custodes","OlQL51zH8B_qpY5fXvsf0xhJzxZ12vBeZNuaUzRC5Qo",{"id":190,"title":191,"body":192,"date":96,"description":269,"extension":98,"faction":270,"heroImage":271,"hex":272,"intro":273,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":274,"navigation":104,"path":275,"seo":276,"stem":277,"system":108,"__hash__":278},"factions/factions/adeptus-mechanicus.md","How to Paint Adeptus Mechanicus",{"type":8,"value":193,"toc":262},[194,197,199,202,206,226,230,233,237,240,242],[11,195,196],{},"Adeptus Mechanicus models are some of the most detail-dense in the range, mixing cloth robes with masses of mechanical limbs, cables and weaponry. The classic Forge World Mars scheme - deep red and brass - is rich and surprisingly forgiving thanks to all that metal.",[15,198,18],{"id":17},[11,200,201],{},"Deep red robes and armour, brass and bronze mechanical parts, oily steel weapons and cables, and cream or white cloth. The red should be dark and rich, the metals warm and grimy.",[15,203,205],{"id":204},"painting-the-red-and-metal","Painting the red and metal",[34,207,208,214,220],{},[37,209,210,213],{},[40,211,212],{},"Red robes/armour"," - use the ramp above; a red contrast deepens the recesses of the heavily folded cloth automatically.",[37,215,216,219],{},[40,217,218],{},"Brass"," - basecoat, brown wash, light highlight; brass is the dominant metal and reads as the priestly, ancient tech.",[37,221,222,225],{},[40,223,224],{},"Steel"," - keep weapons and pistons dark and oily with a black/brown wash; bright steel looks wrong here.",[15,227,229],{"id":228},"cables-lenses-and-details","Cables, lenses and details",[11,231,232],{},"The endless cables can be picked out in muted colours (olive, grey, dull red) so they don't fight the scheme. Green or red lenses on the optical implants add a point of glow on every model.",[15,234,236],{"id":235},"forge-world-variations","Forge World variations",[11,238,239],{},"Swap the robe colour for other forge worlds: Stygies VIII (teal), Ryza (orange), Graia (white), Lucius (metallic).",[15,241,66],{"id":65},[34,243,244,250,256],{},[37,245,246,249],{},[40,247,248],{},"Don't fear the detail."," Wash-heavy techniques do most of the work on these busy models.",[37,251,252,255],{},[40,253,254],{},"Keep metals warm and dirty."," Brass and oily steel suit the grim machine-cult look.",[37,257,258,261],{},[40,259,260],{},"Mute the cables."," Bright cables distract; muted ones read as functional.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":263},[264,265,266,267,268],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":204,"depth":89,"text":205},{"id":228,"depth":89,"text":229},{"id":235,"depth":89,"text":236},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Adeptus Mechanicus - the deep red robes, brass and metal of Mars, with tips for the heavily mechanical, detail-dense models.","Adeptus Mechanicus","/images/factions/adeptus-mechanicus.webp","#7a1f25","Deep red robes, brass and oily metal",{},"/factions/adeptus-mechanicus",{"title":191,"description":269},"factions/adeptus-mechanicus","OVYOWVJXYOJuMPu-Txz-aHyopQ7G-SuqfFcu2gJRjJM",{"id":280,"title":281,"body":282,"date":507,"description":508,"extension":98,"faction":509,"heroImage":510,"hex":511,"intro":512,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":513,"navigation":104,"path":514,"seo":515,"stem":516,"system":108,"__hash__":517},"factions/factions/aeldari.md","How to Paint Aeldari",{"type":8,"value":283,"toc":500},[284,287,289,292,296,307,336,362,366,395,412,416,419,469,472,474],[11,285,286],{},"Aeldari are the opposite of a wash-and-drybrush army. The armour is smooth, curved and almost entirely free of the rivets and cabling that hide mistakes on other factions, so every brush mark shows. That sounds punishing, but it cuts both ways: there is very little to paint. A Guardian is two large armour colours, a helmet, a gun and a gem. Get those four things clean and the model looks finished.",[15,288,18],{"id":17},[11,290,291],{},"A craftworld model is built on hard contrast between two flat colours - the body armour and the helmet or shoulder plates - with a bone or white secondary and one point of glowing gemstone. There is no grime and no chipping. Aeldari wargear is meant to look grown rather than manufactured, so keep the finish even and resist the urge to weather anything.",[15,293,295],{"id":294},"the-armour","The armour",[11,297,298,299,302,303,306],{},"Thin your paint and build up. Over a ",[40,300,301],{},"Wraithbone"," or ",[40,304,305],{},"Grey Seer"," undercoat, two thin coats of the base colour will cover where one thick coat would pool in the panel lines and ruin them.",[11,308,309,310,313,314,317,318,321,322,325,326,329,330,332,333,335],{},"For a Biel-Tan green: base ",[40,311,312],{},"Caliban Green",", shade only in the recesses with ",[40,315,316],{},"Biel-Tan Green",", layer ",[40,319,320],{},"Warpstone Glow"," across the panel and edge-highlight ",[40,323,324],{},"Moot Green",". For the fast version, a single coat of ",[40,327,328],{},"Aeldari Emerald"," over ",[40,331,301],{}," does the shading and basecoat in one pass, and you can still edge it with ",[40,334,324],{}," afterwards.",[11,337,338,339,329,342,345,346,349,350,353,354,357,358,361],{},"Contrast panels in ",[40,340,341],{},"Ulthuan Grey",[40,343,344],{},"Celestra Grey",", then ",[40,347,348],{},"White Scar"," on the highest edges, give you the crisp white the scheme needs. Weapons and undersuits stay dark - ",[40,351,352],{},"Incubi Darkness"," shaded with ",[40,355,356],{},"Nuln Oil"," and edged ",[40,359,360],{},"Kabalite Green"," reads as alien and keeps the bright armour dominant.",[15,363,365],{"id":364},"spiritstones-and-gems","Spiritstones and gems",[11,367,368,369,372,373,376,377,302,380,382,383,376,386,376,389,391,392,394],{},"This is the detail that sells the model, and it takes about thirty seconds each. Paint the stone ",[40,370,371],{},"Abaddon Black",", then a crescent of colour in the lower two-thirds - ",[40,374,375],{},"Khorne Red",", ",[40,378,379],{},"Kantor Blue",[40,381,312],{}," - leaving black at the top. Add a smaller, brighter crescent inside it (",[40,384,385],{},"Evil Sunz Scarlet",[40,387,388],{},"Teclis Blue",[40,390,320],{},"), then a single dot of ",[40,393,348],{}," at the upper edge. Gloss it and you are done.",[11,396,397,398,376,401,302,404,407,408,411],{},"Faster still: ",[40,399,400],{},"Spiritstone Red",[40,402,403],{},"Soulstone Blue",[40,405,406],{},"Waystone Green"," over a ",[40,409,410],{},"Runefang Steel"," base gives a glossy jewelled finish in one coat, which is exactly what the technical paints were made for.",[15,413,415],{"id":414},"craftworld-colour-schemes","Craftworld colour schemes",[11,417,418],{},"The recipe is the same each time; only the two armour colours change.",[34,420,421,427,433,446,458],{},[37,422,423,426],{},[40,424,425],{},"Biel-Tan"," - green armour, white or bone secondary.",[37,428,429,432],{},[40,430,431],{},"Ulthwe"," - black armour with bone, the quickest of the lot.",[37,434,435,438,439,442,443,445],{},[40,436,437],{},"Saim-Hann"," - ",[40,440,441],{},"Mephiston Red"," into ",[40,444,385],{},", black secondary.",[37,447,448,438,451,442,454,457],{},[40,449,450],{},"Iyanden",[40,452,453],{},"Averland Sunset",[40,455,456],{},"Yriel Yellow",", deep blue helmets.",[37,459,460,438,463,442,465,468],{},[40,461,462],{},"Alaitoc",[40,464,379],{},[40,466,467],{},"Alaitoc Blue",", bone secondary.",[11,470,471],{},"Yellow Iyanden is the slowest by a distance; black Ulthwe is the fastest army on this list, since the armour is a single dark colour and all the work goes into the bone panels and gems.",[15,473,66],{"id":65},[34,475,476,482,488,494],{},[37,477,478,481],{},[40,479,480],{},"Undercoat light."," Aeldari colours are saturated and thin. A black undercoat will fight you for three extra coats.",[37,483,484,487],{},[40,485,486],{},"Do not wash the whole model."," An all-over shade muddies the smooth panels. Shade only the recess lines, with a brush, and wipe the excess.",[37,489,490,493],{},[40,491,492],{},"Edge highlights, not blends."," A clean thin line along each panel edge does more for these curved shapes than any amount of blending.",[37,495,496,499],{},[40,497,498],{},"One bright accent per model."," The gems and the weapon glow should be the only things shouting.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":501},[502,503,504,505,506],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":294,"depth":89,"text":295},{"id":364,"depth":89,"text":365},{"id":414,"depth":89,"text":415},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"2026-08-19","How to paint Aeldari - smooth craftworld armour, sharp contrast panels, glowing spiritstones and gems, and the craftworld colour schemes from Biel-Tan and Saim-Hann to Ulthwe.","Aeldari",null,"#137a4e","Smooth craftworld armour, sharp contrast panels and glowing spiritstones",{},"/factions/aeldari",{"title":281,"description":508},"factions/aeldari","FRp90ALImhD0YJe6kfetnySrbNLrbXF73aVUQ5GFqFE",{"id":519,"title":520,"body":521,"date":833,"description":834,"extension":98,"faction":835,"heroImage":510,"hex":836,"intro":837,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":838,"navigation":104,"path":839,"seo":840,"stem":841,"system":842,"__hash__":843},"factions/factions/ash-waste-nomads.md","How to Paint Ash Waste Nomads",{"type":8,"value":522,"toc":824},[523,526,528,531,534,538,544,585,600,626,630,648,654,658,661,686,699,703,706,741,750,754,779,781,816],[11,524,525],{},"Nomads are the most forgiving Necromunda gang to paint and the most rewarding to vary. Almost the whole model is wrapped cloth, so there are no flat armour panels to keep crisp and no hard edges to line. Contrast paints do most of the work, and because these are desert wanderers rather than a uniformed force, mismatched wraps are correct rather than sloppy.",[15,527,18],{"id":17},[11,529,530],{},"Layered, sun-bleached wraps and robes in ochre, sand and pale bone, over dark undersuits and goggled or masked faces. Against all that warmth sits the one cool note: turquoise on beads, straps, banner cloth and jewellery. The mounts - helamites, duneskuttlers and spinewyrms - are chitin, which is glossy, banded and much darker than the riders. Dust ties the whole warband to the same ground.",[11,532,533],{},"The temptation is to make everything one colour of sand. Resist it. A nomad's kit is scavenged, so the wraps should sit in a range of related tones rather than a single one.",[15,535,537],{"id":536},"the-wraps-and-robes","The wraps and robes",[11,539,540,541,543],{},"Undercoat ",[40,542,301],{},". The whole scheme is warm and light, so a bone undercoat saves a coat of paint everywhere.",[545,546,547,554,565,572,579],"ol",{},[37,548,549,550,553],{},"Basecoat ",[40,551,552],{},"Zandri Dust",", two thin coats.",[37,555,556,557,560,561,564],{},"Shade ",[40,558,559],{},"Agrax Earthshade"," into the folds, or ",[40,562,563],{},"Seraphim Sepia"," if you want the cloth to stay yellower and sunnier.",[37,566,567,568,571],{},"Layer ",[40,569,570],{},"Ushabti Bone"," across the raised cloth, leaving the shade in the creases.",[37,573,574,575,578],{},"Highlight the fold peaks and hems with ",[40,576,577],{},"Screaming Skull",".",[37,580,581,582,578],{},"On the outermost wraps only - the ones that have taken the most sun - add a final catch of ",[40,583,584],{},"Pallid Wych Flesh",[11,586,587,588,591,592,595,596,599],{},"For the variety that makes a war party look real, run the same steps with a different basecoat on roughly one wrap in three: ",[40,589,590],{},"Karak Stone"," for a paler bleached cloth, ",[40,593,594],{},"Tallarn Sand"," for a dirtier one, and ",[40,597,598],{},"Steel Legion Drab"," for the underlayers that never see daylight. The ramp above still finishes all three.",[11,601,602,603,376,606,376,609,612,613,616,617,376,620,612,623,578],{},"Vallejo covers this with ",[40,604,605],{},"Iraqi Sand",[40,607,608],{},"Dark Sand",[40,610,611],{},"Buff"," and ",[40,614,615],{},"Bone White",". Army Painter Fanatic gives you ",[40,618,619],{},"Skeleton Bone",[40,621,622],{},"Pale Sand",[40,624,625],{},"Brainmatter Beige",[15,627,629],{"id":628},"the-fast-route","The fast route",[11,631,632,633,635,636,639,640,643,644,647],{},"This is the gang contrast paints were built for. Undercoat ",[40,634,301],{}," and put one coat of ",[40,637,638],{},"Skeleton Horde"," over the wraps - it shades the folds and leaves the raised cloth pale in a single pass. For the warmer, more ochre cloth that matches the studio scheme, ",[40,641,642],{},"Aggaros Dunes"," does the same job a shade darker. Leather straps, belts and satchels take one coat of ",[40,645,646],{},"Snakebite Leather"," and need nothing else.",[11,649,650,651,653],{},"A whole war party can be finished this way in a couple of evenings, and a ",[40,652,577],{}," drybrush over the top afterwards lifts it most of the way to the layered result.",[15,655,657],{"id":656},"turquoise-accents","Turquoise accents",[11,659,660],{},"The turquoise is a small proportion of the model and it carries the entire scheme, so place it deliberately: beads and amulets, the cloth of a banner, the wrap of a rifle stock, the trim on a chieftain's robe. Two or three placements per fighter is plenty.",[11,662,549,663,666,667,317,670,673,674,677,678,681,682,685],{},[40,664,665],{},"Sotek Green",", shade ",[40,668,669],{},"Drakenhof Nightshade",[40,671,672],{},"Temple Guard Blue",", then highlight ",[40,675,676],{},"Baharroth Blue"," on the raised edges. ",[40,679,680],{},"Terradon Turquoise"," works as a single-step alternative on beads too small to layer. The contrast route is one coat of ",[40,683,684],{},"Akhelian Green"," over the bone undercoat, which is genuinely enough on a bead.",[11,687,688,689,692,693,695,696,578],{},"Metal jewellery around the turquoise wants to be warm, not silver: ",[40,690,691],{},"Balthasar Gold",", shaded ",[40,694,559],{},", edged ",[40,697,698],{},"Sycorax Bronze",[15,700,702],{"id":701},"chitin-mounts","Chitin mounts",[11,704,705],{},"Helamites and arthromites need to look shelled and organic, not armoured.",[545,707,708,714,720,731,738],{},[37,709,549,710,713],{},[40,711,712],{},"Rhinox Hide"," over the whole shell.",[37,715,716,717,719],{},"Wash ",[40,718,559],{},", letting it pool between the plates.",[37,721,722,723,726,727,730],{},"Drybrush ",[40,724,725],{},"Mournfang Brown"," across the raised banding, then ",[40,728,729],{},"Balor Brown"," more lightly on the ridges and spines.",[37,732,733,734,737],{},"Glaze ",[40,735,736],{},"Gryph-hound Orange"," over claw tips, spine ends and the leading edges of the shell, which gives the translucency real chitin has.",[37,739,740],{},"Gloss varnish the shell and matt varnish everything else. That difference in finish is what sells it as an insect.",[11,742,743,744,746,747,749],{},"Eyes in ",[40,745,371],{}," with a dot of ",[40,748,385],{}," read well and take seconds.",[15,751,753],{"id":752},"dust-and-basing","Dust and basing",[11,755,756,757,759,760,762,763,302,766,769,770,772,773,778],{},"Nomads live in the ash, so the dust should be part of the model rather than confined to the base. Stipple ",[40,758,590],{}," up from the feet over boots, shins and the lower hems of every wrap, then drybrush ",[40,761,552],{}," lightly over the same area and fade it out about a third of the way up. On the mounts, take it higher - up the legs and onto the underside of the body. ",[40,764,765],{},"Astrogranite",[40,767,768],{},"Agrellan Earth"," on the base, drybrushed ",[40,771,590],{},", ties everything together; the ",[774,775,777],"a",{"href":776},"/guides/basing-miniatures","basing guide"," covers the texture paints in more detail.",[15,780,66],{"id":65},[34,782,783,789,795,801,807],{},[37,784,785,788],{},[40,786,787],{},"Vary the wraps."," One sand colour across an entire war party looks like a uniform, which is exactly what these people do not have.",[37,790,791,794],{},[40,792,793],{},"Keep the turquoise rare."," It is an accent. Painting every strap and pouch turquoise turns a striking scheme into a busy one.",[37,796,797,800],{},[40,798,799],{},"Take the dust up onto the model."," Dusty base plus clean boots is the commonest thing that stops a desert warband looking like it walked there.",[37,802,803,806],{},[40,804,805],{},"Gloss the chitin, matt the cloth."," Two finishes on one model is a five-minute job and does more than an hour of extra highlighting.",[37,808,809,812,813,815],{},[40,810,811],{},"Do not shade the wraps with black."," ",[40,814,356],{}," turns warm sand grey and cold. Brown and sepia only.",[11,817,818,819,823],{},"When the palette is right, ",[774,820,822],{"href":821},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=B08A52","open this scheme in the generator"," to swap brands or push the accent colour further towards blue.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":825},[826,827,828,829,830,831,832],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":536,"depth":89,"text":537},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":656,"depth":89,"text":657},{"id":701,"depth":89,"text":702},{"id":752,"depth":89,"text":753},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"2026-09-03","How to paint Ash Waste Nomads for Necromunda - sun-bleached ochre wraps and robes, turquoise accents and jewellery, chitinous arthromite mounts and layered ash dust.","Ash Waste Nomads","#B08A52","Sun-bleached ochre wraps, turquoise trinkets and chitin-shelled mounts",{},"/factions/ash-waste-nomads",{"title":520,"description":834},"factions/ash-waste-nomads","necromunda","kcpdw9_hEAClWB6AlHqd8dJBCQ3UAGhgr-5p79j51Tc",{"id":845,"title":846,"body":847,"date":96,"description":913,"extension":98,"faction":914,"heroImage":915,"hex":916,"intro":917,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":918,"navigation":104,"path":919,"seo":920,"stem":921,"system":108,"__hash__":922},"factions/factions/astra-militarum.md","How to Paint Astra Militarum",{"type":8,"value":848,"toc":907},[849,852,854,857,861,864,875,878,882,885,887],[11,850,851],{},"The Astra Militarum are the human armies of the Imperium, and you need a lot of them. The whole approach is built around batch painting: a simple, practical scheme applied quickly across ranks of infantry, with tanks as the occasional centrepiece.",[15,853,18],{"id":17},[11,855,856],{},"The iconic Cadian look is military green armour and fatigues, with metal weapons, brown leather and webbing, and flesh faces. It is a grounded, realistic palette - no bright heraldry, just soldiers.",[15,858,860],{"id":859},"batch-painting-infantry","Batch painting infantry",[11,862,863],{},"Speed is everything with guardsmen:",[34,865,866,869,872],{},[37,867,868],{},"Undercoat, then basecoat the largest areas (armour/fatigues) across the whole unit at once.",[37,870,871],{},"One all-over wash to shade everything in a single step.",[37,873,874],{},"A quick drybrush or single highlight on the armour, then pick out metal, leather and faces.",[11,876,877],{},"Contrast paints shine here - a contrast over the right undercoat shades guardsmen automatically and gets a platoon done in an evening.",[15,879,881],{"id":880},"tanks-and-regiments","Tanks and regiments",[11,883,884],{},"Leman Russ tanks and Chimeras give you a canvas for weathering - mud, chipping and stowage. Swap the green for other regiments: Death Korps of Krieg (field grey), Catachan (olive and bare muscle), Tallarn (desert tan), Valhallan (greatcoats).",[15,886,66],{"id":65},[34,888,889,895,901],{},[37,890,891,894],{},[40,892,893],{},"Keep it simple."," A guardsman should take minutes, not hours - save detail for tanks and characters.",[37,896,897,900],{},[40,898,899],{},"One wash to rule them."," A single all-over shade is the fastest way to make ranks look finished.",[37,902,903,906],{},[40,904,905],{},"Weather the tanks."," Mud and chips turn a flat green tank into a war machine.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":908},[909,910,911,912],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":859,"depth":89,"text":860},{"id":880,"depth":89,"text":881},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Astra Militarum - the practical military-green Cadian look, batch-painting infantry fast, with tanks and regiment variations.","Astra Militarum","/images/factions/astra-militarum.webp","#4b5340","Practical military green, batch-painted for a whole regiment",{},"/factions/astra-militarum",{"title":846,"description":913},"factions/astra-militarum","eLD3qRmKR9Fw4N52kt3buIqiGj6dsSpot9F62Z7NAdA",{"id":924,"title":925,"body":926,"date":833,"description":1276,"extension":98,"faction":1277,"heroImage":510,"hex":1278,"intro":1279,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":1280,"navigation":104,"path":1281,"seo":1282,"stem":1283,"system":1284,"__hash__":1285},"factions/factions/beastmen-brayherds.md","How to Paint Beastmen Brayherds",{"type":8,"value":927,"toc":1267},[928,931,934,936,939,943,946,972,975,1020,1028,1032,1035,1065,1078,1082,1096,1105,1123,1127,1139,1168,1170,1205,1225,1227,1259],[11,929,930],{},"Beastmen are the most forgiving army in The Old World and one of the fastest, for the same reason: almost everything on the model is fur, and fur is drybrushed. There is no clean edge to keep straight, no flat panel to keep smooth, and no uniform to keep consistent. Mess is correct here. A herd that looks slightly wrong in a hundred small ways looks exactly right overall.",[11,932,933],{},"That is also the one discipline the army demands. A Brayherd painted to a single recipe reads as a regiment, and a regiment is the opposite of what these are. Build four or five fur schemes and roll through them.",[15,935,18],{"id":17},[11,937,938],{},"Matted brown fur over ruddy, weather-raw skin; heavy bone horns going pale at the tips; crude warpaint and daubed sigils applied by something with no mirror; rusted iron weapons; and bone, feather and scrap charms hanging off everything. Value contrast between the fur and the skin is what makes the model readable, so pick a dark fur with pale skin or a pale fur with ruddy skin - never two mid-browns.",[15,940,942],{"id":941},"the-fur","The fur",[11,944,945],{},"The core recipe, which is three steps and takes about four minutes:",[545,947,948,954,959,965],{},[37,949,549,950,953],{},[40,951,952],{},"Dryad Bark"," over a black undercoat.",[37,955,716,956,958],{},[40,957,559],{}," across the whole pelt and let it pool wherever it wants.",[37,960,722,961,964],{},[40,962,963],{},"Gorthor Brown"," hard, working strictly in the direction the fur lies - down the back, out along the shoulders, forward on the head.",[37,966,967,968,971],{},"Light drybrush of ",[40,969,970],{},"Baneblade Brown"," on the spine, the crown of the head and the outer edge of the shoulders only.",[11,973,974],{},"Then vary it. Four herd colours that all use the same three-step structure:",[34,976,977,989,998,1007],{},[37,978,979,980,982,983,985,986,578],{},"Dark bull - ",[40,981,712],{},", wash, ",[40,984,725],{},", tips of ",[40,987,988],{},"Skrag Brown",[37,990,991,992,982,994,985,996,578],{},"Standard - ",[40,993,952],{},[40,995,963],{},[40,997,970],{},[37,999,1000,1001,982,1003,985,1005,578],{},"Pale goat - ",[40,1002,598],{},[40,1004,552],{},[40,1006,570],{},[37,1008,1009,1010,1012,1013,1016,1017,578],{},"Black goat - ",[40,1011,371],{},", no wash, ",[40,1014,1015],{},"Eshin Grey"," drybrush, tips of ",[40,1018,1019],{},"Dawnstone",[11,1021,1022,1023,1027],{},"Rolling those four through a unit of twenty gungors costs you nothing in time and transforms how the herd reads on the table. ",[774,1024,1026],{"href":1025},"/guides/drybrushing","Drybrushing"," covers keeping the brush dry enough that you get fur texture rather than dust.",[15,1029,1031],{"id":1030},"raw-skin","Raw skin",[11,1033,1034],{},"Chests, faces, forearms and hands are the second largest area and want to look weathered rather than healthy:",[545,1036,1037,1042,1052,1058],{},[37,1038,549,1039,578],{},[40,1040,1041],{},"Bugman's Glow",[37,1043,716,1044,1047,1048,1051],{},[40,1045,1046],{},"Reikland Fleshshade",", or ",[40,1049,1050],{},"Carroburg Crimson"," for a rawer, wind-burnt result.",[37,1053,567,1054,1057],{},[40,1055,1056],{},"Cadian Fleshtone"," over the raised muscle, keeping the wash in every crease.",[37,1059,1060,1061,1064],{},"Highlight ",[40,1062,1063],{},"Kislev Flesh"," on the brow, the bridge of the nose, the knuckles and the collarbones.",[11,1066,1067,1068,1070,1071,1074,1075,1077],{},"Glaze thinned ",[40,1069,1050],{}," back over the nose, ears, knuckles and any scarring. That single step is what turns clean fantasy flesh into something that has been outdoors all winter. For a darker, ox-like hide, start from ",[40,1072,1073],{},"Doombull Brown"," and highlight up to ",[40,1076,1056],{}," instead.",[15,1079,1081],{"id":1080},"horns-hooves-and-bone","Horns, hooves and bone",[11,1083,1084,1085,1087,1088,317,1090,1092,1093,1095],{},"Horns are the silhouette of the whole army, so give them a proper gradient: ",[40,1086,552],{},", wash ",[40,1089,559],{},[40,1091,570],{}," over the outer half, and take ",[40,1094,577],{}," onto the last centimetre of the tip. Leave the root of the horn dark where it meets the skull - a horn lit evenly from base to point looks like a plastic peg.",[11,1097,1098,1099,1101,1102,1104],{},"Dark horn is the alternative: ",[40,1100,712],{}," shaded and then brought up to ",[40,1103,970],{}," only at the tips. Hooves take the same recipe as the darker horns.",[11,1106,1107,1108,376,1110,376,1112,1114,1115,1117,1118,329,1120,1122],{},"Bones, skulls and charms: ",[40,1109,552],{},[40,1111,559],{},[40,1113,570],{},", with ",[40,1116,577],{}," picked out on the highest ridges. ",[40,1119,638],{},[40,1121,301],{}," does the same in one coat and is the better choice on a Bray-Shaman festooned with the things.",[15,1124,1126],{"id":1125},"warpaint-weapons-and-totems","Warpaint, weapons and totems",[11,1128,1129,1130,1133,1134,612,1136,1138],{},"Warpaint should look daubed. Thin ",[40,1131,1132],{},"Corax White"," slightly and apply it with a scruffy brush in a few decisive strokes - a bar across the eyes, a handprint on a shoulder, a stripe down a muzzle. Do not tidy the edges. ",[40,1135,375],{},[40,1137,371],{}," work equally well, and using different colours across the herd suggests separate warbands.",[11,1140,1141,1142,1145,1146,1148,1149,1152,1153,1156,1157,1159,1160,1162,1163,1165,1166,578],{},"Weapons are scavenged and rusted: ",[40,1143,1144],{},"Leadbelcher",", two coats of ",[40,1147,356],{},", stipple ",[40,1150,1151],{},"Typhus Corrosion"," through the recesses, dab ",[40,1154,1155],{},"Ryza Rust"," around rivets and the base of the blade, then run ",[40,1158,410],{}," along the cutting edge only. Wooden hafts and totem poles take ",[40,1161,952],{}," drybrushed ",[40,1164,590],{},", with lashings in ",[40,1167,646],{},[15,1169,629],{"id":628},[11,1171,540,1172,1174,1175,302,1178,1181,1182,1184,1185,302,1188,1191,1192,1194,1195,1198,1199,1201,1202,1204],{},[40,1173,301],{}," and let contrast do the shading. ",[40,1176,1177],{},"Wyldwood",[40,1179,1180],{},"Gore-Grunta Fur"," on the pelts, ",[40,1183,646],{}," on the paler goat fur, ",[40,1186,1187],{},"Darkoath Flesh",[40,1189,1190],{},"Guilliman Flesh"," on the skin, ",[40,1193,638],{}," on horns and bone, ",[40,1196,1197],{},"Basilicanum Grey"," on iron. Then one drybrush of ",[40,1200,590],{}," over the fur and one ",[40,1203,1063],{}," highlight on the face. That is a complete gor in under ten minutes, and because the army wants variation anyway, the slight inconsistency between contrast coats works in your favour.",[11,1206,1207,1208,612,1211,1214,1215,612,1218,1221,1222,1224],{},"Army Painter equivalents: ",[40,1209,1210],{},"Monster Brown",[40,1212,1213],{},"Fur Brown"," for the pelts, ",[40,1216,1217],{},"Barbarian Flesh",[40,1219,1220],{},"Tanned Flesh"," for the skin, ",[40,1223,619],{}," for the horns.",[15,1226,66],{"id":65},[34,1228,1229,1235,1241,1247,1253],{},[37,1230,1231,1234],{},[40,1232,1233],{},"Drybrush along the fur, not across it."," Direction is the entire illusion. Scrubbing in circles gives you a dusty lump.",[37,1236,1237,1240],{},[40,1238,1239],{},"Keep fur and skin at different values."," Mid-brown fur against mid-brown flesh is the commonest Beastman mistake and it makes the model unreadable at arm's length.",[37,1242,1243,1246],{},[40,1244,1245],{},"Leave the horn roots dark."," The gradient from skull to tip is what gives the horn weight.",[37,1248,1249,1252],{},[40,1250,1251],{},"Do not neaten the warpaint."," If it looks like it was masked off, it is wrong.",[37,1254,1255,1258],{},[40,1256,1257],{},"Change something on every fifth model."," Fur colour, warpaint colour, horn tone. The herd should look gathered, not recruited.",[11,1260,1261,1262,1266],{},"Try the balance of hide, bone and warpaint in the ",[774,1263,1265],{"href":1264},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=6b4a2f","scheme generator"," before you commit the herd.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1268},[1269,1270,1271,1272,1273,1274,1275],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":941,"depth":89,"text":942},{"id":1030,"depth":89,"text":1031},{"id":1080,"depth":89,"text":1081},{"id":1125,"depth":89,"text":1126},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Beastmen Brayherds for The Old World - matted brown fur built with drybrushing, raw ruddy skin, bone horns and crude warpaint, with four herd variations so no two models match.","Beastmen Brayherds","#6b4a2f","Matted fur, raw skin, bone horns and crude warpaint",{},"/factions/beastmen-brayherds",{"title":925,"description":1276},"factions/beastmen-brayherds","old-world","ypBLNDZcPgdSVd50_50_agpriTovfrRr4Weffkuo74Q",{"id":1287,"title":1288,"body":1289,"date":507,"description":1464,"extension":98,"faction":1465,"heroImage":510,"hex":1466,"intro":1467,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":1468,"navigation":104,"path":1469,"seo":1470,"stem":1471,"system":108,"__hash__":1472},"factions/factions/black-templars.md","How to Paint Black Templars",{"type":8,"value":1290,"toc":1456},[1291,1294,1296,1299,1301,1313,1329,1333,1336,1359,1372,1393,1397,1416,1420,1428,1430],[11,1292,1293],{},"Black Templars are one of the fastest Space Marine armies to get onto the table and one of the hardest to make look genuinely good. The armour is a single colour and needs no shading at all, so a squad goes from sprue to tabletop very quickly. The difficulty is everything else: the white shoulder trim, the red crosses, the parchment and the tabards are all high-contrast details on a black field, and they have nowhere to hide.",[15,1295,18],{"id":17},[11,1297,1298],{},"Jet black plate, a black-and-white heraldic shoulder, red crosses, and more parchment and chain than any other chapter. The model should read as a knight in armour rather than a marine, so the cloth and paper details deserve as much attention as the armour.",[15,1300,295],{"id":294},[11,1302,1303,1304,1306,1307,302,1309,1312],{},"Undercoat black and leave it. ",[40,1305,371],{}," over a black primer is all the basecoat you need. The mistake is highlighting it grey - a ",[40,1308,1019],{},[40,1310,1311],{},"Administratum Grey"," edge on black armour looks like a grey model from a metre away.",[11,1314,1315,1316,1318,1319,1321,1322,1325,1326,1328],{},"Instead, highlight black with black plus a hint of blue. Edge the plates with ",[40,1317,1015],{}," kept very thin and only on the sharpest edges, then a final tiny catch of ",[40,1320,1019],{}," on corners alone. If you would rather work over a light undercoat, ",[40,1323,1324],{},"Black Templar"," contrast over ",[40,1327,305],{}," gives a deep black with soft transitions in one coat and is a genuinely good shortcut for a big army.",[15,1330,1332],{"id":1331},"white-bone-and-the-crosses","White, bone and the crosses",[11,1334,1335],{},"The white shoulder is where the model is won or lost. Do not try to paint white onto black.",[545,1337,1338,1343,1348,1353],{},[37,1339,1340,1341,578],{},"Block the panel in ",[40,1342,305],{},[37,1344,1345,1346,578],{},"Two thin coats of ",[40,1347,1132],{},[37,1349,1350,1352],{},[40,1351,348],{}," on the upper surfaces only, so the panel has some direction to it.",[37,1354,1355,1356,1358],{},"Cut the black back in with ",[40,1357,371],{}," to sharpen the edge between the two.",[11,1360,1361,1362,1364,1365,1367,1368,1371],{},"Crosses go on last: ",[40,1363,441],{}," blocked in, ",[40,1366,385],{}," to tidy the shape, ",[40,1369,1370],{},"Wild Rider Red"," on the arms of the cross if you want it to pop. A steady hand beats any transfer here, but transfers are perfectly respectable.",[11,1373,1374,1375,376,1377,345,1379,1381,1382,1384,1385,1387,1388,1390,1391,578],{},"Parchment is ",[40,1376,552],{},[40,1378,559],{},[40,1380,570],{}," and a ",[40,1383,577],{}," edge. Tabards and cloth take ",[40,1386,712],{}," shaded ",[40,1389,559],{}," and highlighted ",[40,1392,725],{},[15,1394,1396],{"id":1395},"metals-and-accents","Metals and accents",[11,1398,1399,1400,1387,1402,1114,1404,1406,1407,1387,1410,1390,1412,1415],{},"Bolters and backpacks in ",[40,1401,1144],{},[40,1403,356],{},[40,1405,410],{}," on the edges. Chains, seals and aquilas in ",[40,1408,1409],{},"Retributor Armour",[40,1411,559],{},[40,1413,1414],{},"Auric Armour Gold"," - the gold against black is what makes the army look expensive.",[15,1417,1419],{"id":1418},"crusade-variations","Crusade variations",[11,1421,1422,1423,329,1425,1427],{},"Every crusade dresses differently, and the scheme takes personalisation well. Swap the shoulder trim to bone (",[40,1424,570],{},[40,1426,552],{},") for a more weathered, campaign-worn crusade, or run the black-and-white halved shoulder for a Sword Brethren look. Neophytes traditionally get more black and less white, so their armour is faster still.",[15,1429,66],{"id":65},[34,1431,1432,1438,1444,1450],{},[37,1433,1434,1437],{},[40,1435,1436],{},"Do not highlight black with grey."," Keep highlights sparse, thin and on edges only.",[37,1439,1440,1443],{},[40,1441,1442],{},"Undercoat black, then work light."," The white details are the slow part; plan the model around them.",[37,1445,1446,1449],{},[40,1447,1448],{},"Vary the parchment."," A slightly different bone tone on each scroll stops the army looking printed.",[37,1451,1452,1455],{},[40,1453,1454],{},"Gloss varnish the reds."," Red crosses on matt black armour benefit from a touch of sheen to separate them.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1457},[1458,1459,1460,1461,1462,1463],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":294,"depth":89,"text":295},{"id":1331,"depth":89,"text":1332},{"id":1395,"depth":89,"text":1396},{"id":1418,"depth":89,"text":1419},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Black Templars - getting black armour to read as black rather than grey, crisp white and bone details, red crosses, and the parchment that covers every model.","Black Templars","#0f1012","Black armour that still reads as armour, plus crisp white crosses and parchment",{},"/factions/black-templars",{"title":1288,"description":1464},"factions/black-templars","Q4tBALRLinnUGGEELTqJgBmlh2vlwLdFaqr0Im59Huk",{"id":1474,"title":1475,"body":1476,"date":507,"description":1659,"extension":98,"faction":1660,"heroImage":510,"hex":1661,"intro":1662,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":1663,"navigation":104,"path":1664,"seo":1665,"stem":1666,"system":1667,"__hash__":1668},"factions/factions/blades-of-khorne.md","How to Paint Blades of Khorne",{"type":8,"value":1477,"toc":1652},[1478,1481,1483,1486,1490,1493,1522,1540,1554,1558,1583,1590,1594,1611,1613,1645],[11,1479,1480],{},"Khorne fields the most single-minded palette in Age of Sigmar: red, brass and blood, repeated from the humblest Bloodreaver up to Skarbrand. That narrowness is a gift to a painter. Settle one red recipe and it carries the entire collection, so the force reads as an army long before the details are finished.",[15,1482,18],{"id":17},[11,1484,1485],{},"Deep, warm red armour and cloth. Brass and bronze rather than clean gold. Bruised, unhealthy skin on the mortals, and a hotter, brighter red on the daemons so they sit apart from the Bloodbound. Then blood - on blades, on plate, underfoot. Khorne is deliberately unsubtle, so the craft is in keeping the red rich rather than flat, and the metal tarnished rather than shiny.",[15,1487,1489],{"id":1488},"painting-the-red","Painting the red",[11,1491,1492],{},"Red is the colour most likely to go chalky, so build it from a dark base and highlight upward in small steps.",[545,1494,1495,1500,1508,1514],{},[37,1496,1497,1498,578],{},"Undercoat black and basecoat the plate with ",[40,1499,375],{},[37,1501,1502,1503,1047,1505,1507],{},"Shade the recesses with ",[40,1504,356],{},[40,1506,559],{}," if you want a dirtier, warmer finish.",[37,1509,1510,1511,1513],{},"Re-layer the flat panels with ",[40,1512,441],{},", leaving the shade sitting in the crevices.",[37,1515,1516,1517,1519,1520,578],{},"Edge highlight with ",[40,1518,385],{},", then touch only the sharpest corners with ",[40,1521,1370],{},[11,1523,1524,1525,1528,1529,1531,1532,1535,1536,1539],{},"The quick version is a ",[40,1526,1527],{},"Flesh Tearers Red"," contrast over a light undercoat, which shades and bases in a single pass and still takes an ",[40,1530,385],{}," edge afterwards. Army Painter's ",[40,1533,1534],{},"Dragon Red"," with ",[40,1537,1538],{},"Strong Tone"," over it does the same job.",[11,1541,1542,1543,317,1545,1547,1548,1550,1551,1553],{},"Daemons want separating from mortals: base Bloodletter skin ",[40,1544,441],{},[40,1546,385],{}," across the muscle and push ",[40,1549,1370],{}," onto the shoulders and skull-ridges, with ",[40,1552,570],{}," horns.",[15,1555,1557],{"id":1556},"brass-iron-and-gore","Brass, iron and gore",[11,1559,1560,1561,1564,1565,1567,1568,302,1571,1574,1575,612,1577,1579,1580,1582],{},"Basecoat trim, masks and rings with ",[40,1562,1563],{},"Warplock Bronze",", shade with ",[40,1566,559],{},", then edge with ",[40,1569,1570],{},"Skullcrusher Brass",[40,1572,1573],{},"Runelord Brass",". Weapons take ",[40,1576,1144],{},[40,1578,356],{},", with a stipple of ",[40,1581,1155],{}," at the rivets. Warm, dirty metal is the point - polished gold reads as Stormcast.",[11,1584,1585,1586,1589],{},"For gore, ",[40,1587,1588],{},"Blood For The Blood God"," is superb and easy to overdo. Put it along the last third of a blade, in the recesses under claws and teeth, and in a few flicks on the greaves. Blood everywhere reads as wet plastic; blood in three places reads as violence.",[15,1591,1593],{"id":1592},"batch-painting-the-horde","Batch painting the horde",[11,1595,1596,1597,376,1599,1601,1602,1604,1605,1607,1608,1610],{},"Bloodreavers, Blood Warriors and Skullreapers turn up in blocks, and this is a scheme that batches beautifully. Work ten at a time: undercoat, base red, wash the lot, then do one full pass of each highlight across all ten before moving on. Skin goes ",[40,1598,1041],{},[40,1600,1046],{},", then a light layer of ",[40,1603,1063],{}," on the noses and knuckles. Leather is ",[40,1606,712],{}," with a ",[40,1609,988],{}," drybrush. Nothing here needs a fine brush, which is why Khorne is one of the quicker hordes to get to a good tabletop standard.",[15,1612,66],{"id":65},[34,1614,1615,1621,1630,1639],{},[37,1616,1617,1620],{},[40,1618,1619],{},"Build red from dark."," Basing bright and washing it down leaves a flat, dusty finish.",[37,1622,1623,1626,1627,1629],{},[40,1624,1625],{},"Brass, not gold."," Tarnish is character; ",[40,1628,559],{}," over bronze does most of the work.",[37,1631,1632,1635,1636,1638],{},[40,1633,1634],{},"Keep skin unhealthy."," A touch of ",[40,1637,1050],{}," in the recesses makes mortals look feverish rather than well.",[37,1640,1641,1644],{},[40,1642,1643],{},"Ration the blood."," Three placements per model beats a coat of it.",[11,1646,1647,1648,1651],{},"When the red is where you want it, ",[774,1649,822],{"href":1650},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=8f1d1d"," to swap in another brand or test a secondary colour.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1653},[1654,1655,1656,1657,1658],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1488,"depth":89,"text":1489},{"id":1556,"depth":89,"text":1557},{"id":1592,"depth":89,"text":1593},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Blades of Khorne - deep red plate, tarnished brass and convincing gore across Bloodreavers, Blood Warriors and daemons, plus a batch-painting route for the horde.","Blades of Khorne","#8f1d1d","Deep red plate, tarnished brass and honest gore",{},"/factions/blades-of-khorne",{"title":1475,"description":1659},"factions/blades-of-khorne","aos","k8aCzoLpR_0-AunjHhKscTDO-fX8IZ_MOVNe74PnuUw",{"id":1670,"title":1671,"body":1672,"date":96,"description":1749,"extension":98,"faction":1750,"heroImage":1751,"hex":1752,"intro":1753,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1754,"navigation":104,"path":1755,"seo":1756,"stem":1757,"system":108,"__hash__":1758},"factions/factions/blood-angels.md","How to Paint Blood Angels",{"type":8,"value":1673,"toc":1743},[1674,1677,1679,1682,1686,1689,1703,1706,1710,1721,1723],[11,1675,1676],{},"Blood Angels are one of the most striking Space Marine chapters and one of the trickiest, because red is a notoriously difficult colour to get clean, even coverage with. Nail the red and the rest of the scheme - gold, black and bone - falls into place quickly.",[15,1678,18],{"id":17},[11,1680,1681],{},"Blood Angels are deep, rich red armour with gold trim, black weapons and joints, and plenty of ornate iconography - wings, blood drops and purity seals. The red should look vibrant and slightly glossy rather than flat or chalky.",[15,1683,1685],{"id":1684},"getting-red-to-cover","Getting red to cover",[11,1687,1688],{},"Red painted straight over a black undercoat goes patchy and dull. Two reliable approaches:",[34,1690,1691,1697],{},[37,1692,1693,1696],{},[40,1694,1695],{},"Build up from a base."," Undercoat in a warm tone (a red-brown or even a grey/white zenithal), basecoat a mid red, then a red contrast or glaze to deepen and even it out.",[37,1698,1699,1702],{},[40,1700,1701],{},"Contrast in one pass."," A red contrast paint over a light undercoat gives smooth, glossy red fast - ideal for a whole army.",[11,1704,1705],{},"Highlight by edge-highlighting with a brighter orange-red, then a tiny touch of orange on the sharpest corners.",[15,1707,1709],{"id":1708},"death-company-and-successors","Death Company and successors",[34,1711,1712,1718],{},[37,1713,1714,1717],{},[40,1715,1716],{},"Death Company"," are black armour with red detailing - the inverse scheme, and a great change of pace.",[37,1719,1720],{},"Successor chapters (Flesh Tearers, Angels Encarmine, Blood Drinkers) reuse the method with darker or two-tone reds.",[15,1722,66],{"id":65},[34,1724,1725,1731,1737],{},[37,1726,1727,1730],{},[40,1728,1729],{},"Don't basecoat red over black"," expecting coverage - it never works in one or two coats.",[37,1732,1733,1736],{},[40,1734,1735],{},"Keep gold warm."," Shade gold trim with a brown wash so it reads as gold, not yellow.",[37,1738,1739,1742],{},[40,1740,1741],{},"Gloss the red slightly."," A satin rather than dead-matt varnish suits the rich Blood Angels look.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1744},[1745,1746,1747,1748],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1684,"depth":89,"text":1685},{"id":1708,"depth":89,"text":1709},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Blood Angels - the rich deep-red armour, gold trim and black detailing, plus how to get smooth red coverage and paint the Death Company.","Blood Angels","/images/factions/blood-angels.webp","#9b1b1e","Deep red armour, gold trim, and getting red to cover cleanly",{},"/factions/blood-angels",{"title":1671,"description":1749},"factions/blood-angels","xAG2X2R73-yd4XFiDFjynArCUuTGyNd7VfGrquaYZBg",{"id":1760,"title":1761,"body":1762,"date":2076,"description":2077,"extension":98,"faction":2078,"heroImage":510,"hex":2079,"intro":2080,"lastUpdated":2076,"meta":2081,"navigation":104,"path":2082,"seo":2083,"stem":2084,"system":2085,"__hash__":2086},"factions/factions/bolt-action-belgium.md","How to Paint Belgian Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":1763,"toc":2069},[1764,1767,1769,1772,1776,1779,1815,1822,1849,1866,1870,1963,1967,1985,2004,2017,2019,2062],[11,1765,1766],{},"Belgium is a four-box army for eighteen days of fighting, and that is exactly what makes it a satisfying paint: a small, coherent force you can finish rather than accumulate. The uniform is khaki - Belgium adopted khaki during the Great War and never went back - but it runs noticeably browner and darker than British serge, which is the distinction worth holding on to, because these figures share a table and a shelf with British ones. Three bottles and a wash cover the entire army.",[15,1768,18],{"id":17},[11,1770,1771],{},"A brown-khaki tunic and trousers, brown leather belt, braces and pouches, and a helmet that is very often the old Adrian with its crest and front badge - the 1931-pattern helmet appears alongside it rather than instead of it, so a mixed squad is correct rather than careless. There are no bright facings and no camouflage: the whole model is one warm drab, and the shape comes from getting the leather a step warmer than the cloth and the boots a step darker than both.",[15,1773,1775],{"id":1774},"the-1940-khaki-uniform","The 1940 khaki uniform",[11,1777,1778],{},"Undercoat black or dark brown.",[545,1780,1781,1788,1797,1802],{},[37,1782,1783,1784,1787],{},"Basecoat Vallejo Model Color ",[40,1785,1786],{},"US Field Drab",", two thin coats. It is the closest single bottle to Belgian 1940 cloth: browner and darker than British battledress, with none of the Soviet green.",[37,1789,1790,1791,1793,1794,1796],{},"Shade with ",[40,1792,559],{}," in the folds, or Army Painter ",[40,1795,1538],{}," for the same warm result. Keep it in the creases - a full-garment wash makes wool look like leather.",[37,1798,567,1799,1801],{},[40,1800,1786],{}," back over the raised cloth: the chest, the tops of the shoulders, the front of the thighs and the puttee wraps.",[37,1803,1804,1805,1807,1808,1811,1812,1814],{},"Highlight with ",[40,1806,1786],{}," mixed two to one with ",[40,1809,1810],{},"Khaki",", then a very sparing final catch of ",[40,1813,608],{}," on shoulders, elbows and knees.",[11,1816,1817,1818,1821],{},"For greatcoats and for cloth that has seen a winter, mix a drop of ",[40,1819,1820],{},"Khaki Grey"," into the base to take it greyer, and stop the highlight one step early. Two related drabs on the same model - tunic and rolled greatcoat, or coat and pack - is worth far more than a single flat shade.",[11,1823,1824,1825,1827,1828,1830,1831,1833,1834,1836,1837,1840,1841,692,1843,1845,1846,578],{},"Citadel equivalent: ",[40,1826,598],{}," with a touch of ",[40,1829,712],{}," in the base to darken it, ",[40,1832,559],{},", layer, highlight ",[40,1835,590],{},". Army Painter Fanatic: ",[40,1838,1839],{},"Command Khaki"," with a drop of ",[40,1842,1210],{},[40,1844,1538],{},", highlighted ",[40,1847,1848],{},"Tomb King Tan",[11,1850,1851,1852,1854,1855,1858,1859,1862,1863,1865],{},"Speed route: undercoat ",[40,1853,301],{},", one coat of Citadel ",[40,1856,1857],{},"Garaghak's Sewer"," contrast or Army Painter Speedpaint ",[40,1860,1861],{},"Desolate Brown",", then an edge catch of ",[40,1864,1810],{},". Four boxes is a whole national army, and at this speed it is a weekend rather than a project.",[15,1867,1869],{"id":1868},"helmets-leather-and-metal","Helmets, leather and metal",[34,1871,1872,1890,1897,1912,1929,1948],{},[37,1873,1874,1875,1877,1878,1880,1881,1883,1884,1887,1888,578],{},"The Adrian helmet: ",[40,1876,1786],{}," to match the tunic, shaded ",[40,1879,356],{}," in the crest recess and under both brims, highlighted along the crest ridge and rim with ",[40,1882,1810],{},". The lion badge on the front is worth a minute in ",[40,1885,1886],{},"Gunmetal"," washed ",[40,1889,356],{},[37,1891,1892,1893,1896],{},"The 1931-pattern helmet: same recipe, or a step greener with ",[40,1894,1895],{},"Bronze Green"," if your reference photograph shows it. Mixing the two helmets across a squad is historically right and visually excellent.",[37,1898,1899,1900,1903,1904,1906,1907,1827,1909,1911],{},"Belt, braces, ammunition pouches and pack straps: ",[40,1901,1902],{},"Cork Brown"," basecoat, ",[40,1905,559],{},", highlight ",[40,1908,1902],{},[40,1910,608],{},". Warm mid-brown leather, lighter than the uniform.",[37,1913,1914,1915,1918,1919,1047,1922,442,1925,1928],{},"Boots: ",[40,1916,1917],{},"Black Grey"," highlighted ",[40,1920,1921],{},"Neutral Grey",[40,1923,1924],{},"Chocolate Brown",[40,1926,1927],{},"Beige Brown"," for brown leather. Either is defensible; keep one choice across a squad.",[37,1930,1931,1932,1935,1936,1938,1939,1387,1941,1943,1944,442,1946,578],{},"Mauser rifles, the Fusil Mle 1935 and the FM30: ",[40,1933,1934],{},"Flat Brown"," stocks highlighted ",[40,1937,1927],{},", metalwork ",[40,1940,1886],{},[40,1942,356],{},", or Citadel ",[40,1945,1144],{},[40,1947,410],{},[37,1949,1950,1951,376,1954,376,1956,1959,1960,578],{},"Faces: ",[40,1952,1953],{},"Basic Skin Tone",[40,1955,559],{},[40,1957,1958],{},"Medium Fleshtone",", a touch of ",[40,1961,1962],{},"Light Flesh",[15,1964,1966],{"id":1965},"variations-worth-painting","Variations worth painting",[11,1968,1969,1972,1973,666,1975,1977,1978,1981,1982,1984],{},[40,1970,1971],{},"Chasseurs Ardennais."," The large dark green beret with its boar's-head badge is the single best-known thing about the Belgian army of 1940 and the one place to spend real time. Base ",[40,1974,1895],{},[40,1976,356],{},", highlight the crown and the headband edge with ",[40,1979,1980],{},"Green Grey",", and pick the badge out in ",[40,1983,1886],{},". Keep it dark; a bright beret pulls the eye off the model.",[11,1986,1987,1990,1991,1387,1993,1995,1996,1998,1999,612,2001,2003],{},[40,1988,1989],{},"Vehicles."," The T-13 and T-15 take a dark green base of ",[40,1992,1895],{},[40,1994,356],{}," and drybrushed ",[40,1997,1980],{},". Reference photographs vary on whether a given vehicle carried disruptive patches, so if you want them, lay soft blotches of ",[40,2000,1924],{},[40,2002,605],{}," and keep them subtle.",[11,2005,2006,2009,2010,2013,2014,2016],{},[40,2007,2008],{},"Free Belgians."," The Brigade Piron of 1944 fought in British battledress, so those models take the British recipe wholesale - ",[40,2011,2012],{},"English Uniform"," cloth, pale ",[40,2015,1980],{}," webbing - with a national flash as the only change. It is a cheap way to extend a small force into a late-war one.",[15,2018,66],{"id":65},[34,2020,2021,2027,2033,2039,2045],{},[37,2022,2023,2026],{},[40,2024,2025],{},"Browner than a Tommy."," Side by side with British serge the Belgian tunic should be visibly darker and warmer. If it is not, add brown to the base.",[37,2028,2029,2032],{},[40,2030,2031],{},"Warm brown leather."," Belt and braces in mid-brown against a dark drab tunic is what carries the figure; blackening the kit flattens it completely.",[37,2034,2035,2038],{},[40,2036,2037],{},"Two helmets is correct."," Adrian and 1931 pattern in the same section is right. Painting a whole squad in one shape loses a detail the army is known for.",[37,2040,2041,2044],{},[40,2042,2043],{},"Fresh issue, not campaign-worn."," This is an eighteen-day war in May: light dust rather than caked mud suits it, and it saves you a session.",[37,2046,2047,2050,2051,2054,2055,2057,2058,2061],{},[40,2048,2049],{},"Dust the lower legs."," A quick ",[774,2052,2053],{"href":1025},"drybrush"," of ",[40,2056,608],{}," over boots and puttees ties the figure to its ",[774,2059,2060],{"href":776},"base"," without touching the wool.",[11,2063,2064,2065,2068],{},"When the palette is settled, ",[774,2066,822],{"href":2067},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=5E5334"," to swap brands or grey the base towards a greatcoat tone.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2070},[2071,2072,2073,2074,2075],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1774,"depth":89,"text":1775},{"id":1868,"depth":89,"text":1869},{"id":1965,"depth":89,"text":1966},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"2026-09-04","How to paint Bolt Action Belgians - the 1940 brown-khaki uniform, brown leather kit, the Adrian and 1931-pattern helmets, the Chasseurs Ardennais beret and a Free Belgian battledress option.","Bolt Action Belgium","#5E5334","A browner khaki than a Tommy, and two helmets in one squad",{},"/factions/bolt-action-belgium",{"title":1761,"description":2077},"factions/bolt-action-belgium","bolt-action","IcZxcvKBQtvJe3XiR16-biG2BD1-LVraMqwbWqNglbs",{"id":2088,"title":2089,"body":2090,"date":833,"description":2407,"extension":98,"faction":2408,"heroImage":510,"hex":2409,"intro":2410,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":2411,"navigation":104,"path":2412,"seo":2413,"stem":2414,"system":2085,"__hash__":2415},"factions/factions/bolt-action-france.md","How to Paint French Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":2091,"toc":2399},[2092,2095,2097,2100,2102,2104,2132,2145,2161,2171,2175,2178,2202,2219,2231,2235,2238,2298,2300,2318,2338,2353,2355,2393],[11,2093,2094],{},"The single most useful thing to know before painting a 1940 French squad is that horizon blue is a First World War colour. The Armee de Terre began replacing it in the 1920s, and by May 1940 the infantryman in front of you is wearing a khaki uniform - a brownish, slightly yellow khaki of its own, not British serge and not American drab. The blue survives in exactly one place a Bolt Action painter cares about: the Adrian helmet, still widely issued in its old blue-grey paint, and on greatcoats and kit held by reserve and colonial units. That single blue-grey note against warm khaki and brown leather is the 1940 look, and it is why the swatch above is a blue rather than a drab.",[15,2096,18],{"id":17},[11,2098,2099],{},"Khaki tunic and breeches, an Adrian helmet in blue-grey with its distinctive ridge and front badge, and leather everywhere - French field kit is belts, braces, cartridge pouches and pack straps in warm natural leather where every other army has canvas webbing. Get those three things right and the figure dates itself to 1940 without a badge in sight.",[15,2101,1775],{"id":1774},[11,2103,1778],{},[545,2105,2106,2111,2118,2123],{},[37,2107,1783,2108,2110],{},[40,2109,1810],{},", two thin coats. It is the closest single bottle to French 1940 cloth: browner than Soviet khaki-olive, yellower than British battledress.",[37,2112,1790,2113,1793,2115,2117],{},[40,2114,559],{},[40,2116,1538],{}," for the same warm result.",[37,2119,567,2120,2122],{},[40,2121,1810],{}," back over the raised cloth - the chest of the tunic, the tops of the shoulders, the front of the thighs and the puttee wraps.",[37,2124,1804,2125,1807,2127,2129,2130,1814],{},[40,2126,1810],{},[40,2128,608],{},", then a final sparing catch of ",[40,2131,611],{},[11,2133,2134,2135,1903,2137,1906,2139,2141,2142,2144],{},"For the heavy wool greatcoat, which a great many 1940 figures wear, run a slightly greyer version: ",[40,2136,1820],{},[40,2138,559],{},[40,2140,1820],{}," plus ",[40,2143,608],{},". Two related khakis on the same model - tunic and coat, or coat and rolled blanket - is far more convincing than one flat shade.",[11,2146,1824,2147,1903,2149,317,2151,1906,2153,1836,2155,1387,2157,1390,2159,578],{},[40,2148,552],{},[40,2150,559],{},[40,2152,552],{},[40,2154,590],{},[40,2156,1839],{},[40,2158,1538],{},[40,2160,1848],{},[11,2162,1851,2163,1854,2165,1858,2167,1862,2169,578],{},[40,2164,301],{},[40,2166,1857],{},[40,2168,1861],{},[40,2170,608],{},[15,2172,2174],{"id":2173},"the-adrian-helmet-and-the-blue-grey","The Adrian helmet and the blue-grey",[11,2176,2177],{},"This is where the horizon blue lives. It is a grey-blue, chalky and desaturated, and it should never look like a bright uniform colour.",[545,2179,2180,2185,2190,2195],{},[37,2181,549,2182,578],{},[40,2183,2184],{},"Pastel Blue",[37,2186,1790,2187,2189],{},[40,2188,356],{}," in the recess behind the crest and under the front and rear brims.",[37,2191,567,2192,2194],{},[40,2193,2184],{}," back across the dome.",[37,2196,2197,2198,2201],{},"Highlight the ridge, the crest and the rim with ",[40,2199,2200],{},"Pale Grey Blue",", then a hairline of the same on the very top of the crest.",[11,2203,1824,2204,1903,2207,1906,2209,1836,2212,442,2215,2218],{},[40,2205,2206],{},"Russ Grey",[40,2208,356],{},[40,2210,2211],{},"Fenrisian Grey",[40,2213,2214],{},"Stratos Blue",[40,2216,2217],{},"Marine Mist",". For a helmet repainted khaki - increasingly common through 1940 - simply use the uniform recipe and skip the blue entirely; a mixed squad of blue-grey and khaki helmets is historically right and visually excellent.",[11,2220,2221,2222,2225,2226,2228,2229,578],{},"The chin strap and the front badge are worth two minutes: strap in ",[40,2223,2224],{},"Cavalry Brown",", badge picked out in ",[40,2227,1886],{}," and washed ",[40,2230,356],{},[15,2232,2234],{"id":2233},"leather-and-kit","Leather and kit",[11,2236,2237],{},"French leather is the other half of the scheme, and it should be noticeably warmer and lighter than German or British kit.",[34,2239,2240,2252,2261,2271,2288],{},[37,2241,2242,2243,1903,2245,2247,2248,1827,2250,578],{},"Belt, Y-braces, cartridge pouches and pack straps: ",[40,2244,1902],{},[40,2246,559],{}," shade, highlight ",[40,2249,1902],{},[40,2251,608],{},[37,2253,2254,2255,1387,2257,1845,2259,578],{},"Boots and the darker officers' equipment: ",[40,2256,1924],{},[40,2258,356],{},[40,2260,1927],{},[37,2262,2263,2264,1387,2266,1047,2268,2270],{},"Pack and mess tin canvas: ",[40,2265,1927],{},[40,2267,559],{},[40,2269,1820],{}," for issue canvas.",[37,2272,2273,2274,1935,2276,376,2278,2280,2281,2283,2284,442,2286,578],{},"MAS-36 and Berthier rifles: ",[40,2275,1934],{},[40,2277,1927],{},[40,2279,1886],{}," metalwork shaded ",[40,2282,356],{},". Citadel: ",[40,2285,1144],{},[40,2287,410],{},[37,2289,1950,2290,376,2292,376,2294,1959,2296,578],{},[40,2291,1953],{},[40,2293,559],{},[40,2295,1958],{},[40,2297,1962],{},[15,2299,1966],{"id":1965},[11,2301,2302,2305,2306,1387,2309,2311,2312,2141,2314,2317],{},[40,2303,2304],{},"Chasseurs Alpins"," wear the large dark beret: ",[40,2307,2308],{},"Dark Blue",[40,2310,356],{},", highlighted with ",[40,2313,2308],{},[40,2315,2316],{},"Grey Blue",". Keep it very dark; a bright beret pulls the eye off the whole model.",[11,2319,2320,2323,2324,442,2326,2328,2329,2332,2333,2337],{},[40,2321,2322],{},"Colonial and North African units"," - Tirailleurs, the Foreign Legion, Spahis - are the place for khaki drill and older stocks. Use ",[40,2325,605],{},[40,2327,622],{}," for drill uniforms, ",[40,2330,2331],{},"Off-White"," for Legion kepi covers, and mix in some genuinely horizon-blue greatcoats using the helmet recipe scaled up. This is the only context where a blue ",[2334,2335,2336],"em",{},"garment"," is defensible on a 1940 table.",[11,2339,2340,2343,2344,376,2347,612,2350,2352],{},[40,2341,2342],{},"Vehicles"," - Char B1 bis, Somua S35 - carry the three-tone camouflage: ",[40,2345,2346],{},"Olive Green",[40,2348,2349],{},"Flat Earth",[40,2351,1924],{}," in soft patches, separated by thin black dividing lines. Those black lines are the pattern's signature and worth the fine brush.",[15,2354,66],{"id":65},[34,2356,2357,2363,2369,2375,2381],{},[37,2358,2359,2362],{},[40,2360,2361],{},"Khaki uniform, blue-grey helmet."," Painting the whole figure horizon blue puts him twenty-two years early.",[37,2364,2365,2368],{},[40,2366,2367],{},"Warm the leather."," Light brown belts and braces against khaki are what make a French figure look French rather than a repainted Tommy.",[37,2370,2371,2374],{},[40,2372,2373],{},"Two khakis beat one."," Tunic, greatcoat and puttees in slightly different shades reads as real cloth.",[37,2376,2377,2380],{},[40,2378,2379],{},"Keep the blue chalky."," Add grey, never white, to highlight it. A pure white highlight turns the helmet into porcelain.",[37,2382,2383,2386,2387,2390,2391,578],{},[40,2384,2385],{},"Mud to the knee."," These are 1940 figures on the retreat; a ",[774,2388,2389],{"href":1025},"drybrushed"," earth tone up the puttees ties them to the ",[774,2392,2060],{"href":776},[11,2394,2064,2395,2398],{},[774,2396,822],{"href":2397},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=7B8899"," to swap brands or trade the blue for an all-khaki late-campaign look.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2400},[2401,2402,2403,2404,2405,2406],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1774,"depth":89,"text":1775},{"id":2173,"depth":89,"text":2174},{"id":2233,"depth":89,"text":2234},{"id":1965,"depth":89,"text":1966},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action French - the 1940 khaki uniform, warm brown leather kit, blue-grey Adrian helmets, chasseur and colonial variations, and where horizon blue does and does not belong.","Bolt Action France","#7B8899","1940 khaki, brown leather, and a blue-grey Adrian helmet",{},"/factions/bolt-action-france",{"title":2089,"description":2407},"factions/bolt-action-france","jB0X82ykfgp9GpWmWAIjt2vdn0wr8DdfnF_rV07Uujg",{"id":2417,"title":2418,"body":2419,"date":833,"description":2686,"extension":98,"faction":2687,"heroImage":510,"hex":2688,"intro":2689,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":2690,"navigation":104,"path":2691,"seo":2692,"stem":2693,"system":2085,"__hash__":2694},"factions/factions/bolt-action-germany.md","How to Paint German Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":2420,"toc":2679},[2421,2424,2426,2429,2432,2436,2439,2475,2488,2511,2527,2531,2534,2546,2560,2566,2570,2630,2632,2673],[11,2422,2423],{},"Germans are the army most people paint first in Bolt Action and the one most often painted wrong, because feldgrau is not a colour you can guess at. It is not grey and it is not green: it is a desaturated grey-green with a brown undertone, and reaching for a bottle labelled \"field grey\" from a fantasy range usually lands you somewhere that reads as a Space Marine chapter instead. Get the base tone right and the rest of a squad - black leather, dull steel, one camouflage item - falls into place in an evening.",[15,2425,18],{"id":17},[11,2427,2428],{},"A Heer section is deliberately low contrast. Feldgrau tunic and trousers, near-black leather Y-straps and boots, a helmet in the same tone as the uniform, and dull steel on the weapons. What lifts it off the table is the placement of contrast rather than the amount: the dark webbing works as an outline around the torso, and one camouflage item - a Zeltbahn, a smock, a helmet cover - carries all the colour interest.",[11,2430,2431],{},"The tone drifted through the war, which is useful to know. 1939-41 cloth is greener and better dyed; from 1943 it goes greyer, browner and far more variable, and by 1944-45 a single section can hold three visibly different shades. Lean into that: a drop of brown or buff mixed into the base on some models makes the unit look issued rather than moulded.",[15,2433,2435],{"id":2434},"the-feldgrau-uniform","The feldgrau uniform",[11,2437,2438],{},"Undercoat black or dark grey. Feldgrau is dark enough that white primer fights you all the way.",[545,2440,2441,2447,2459,2464],{},[37,2442,1783,2443,2446],{},[40,2444,2445],{},"German Fieldgrey WWII",", two thin coats. This is the reference tone for mid-war Heer cloth and the one bottle to own.",[37,2448,1790,2449,2451,2452,2454,2455,2458],{},[40,2450,356],{}," in the deep folds only, or ",[40,2453,559],{}," across the whole garment for the warmer, dustier late-war look. Army Painter's ",[40,2456,2457],{},"Military Shade"," does the same job in a single pass and keeps the green alive.",[37,2460,567,2461,2463],{},[40,2462,2445],{}," back over the raised cloth, leaving the shade in the creases.",[37,2465,1804,2466,2468,2469,2471,2472,2474],{},[40,2467,2445],{}," mixed roughly two parts to one with ",[40,2470,1980],{},", along the tops of shoulders and sleeves and the front of the thighs. A final sparing catch of pure ",[40,2473,1980],{}," on knees and pack straps is enough.",[11,2476,2477,2478,2481,2482,302,2485,2487],{},"For an early-war, greener tunic swap step one for ",[40,2479,2480],{},"German Uniform",". For a tired 1945 one, mix a little ",[40,2483,2484],{},"Green Brown",[40,2486,1810],{}," into the base and drop the last highlight - worn wool has no sheen.",[11,2489,1824,2490,1903,2493,345,2495,2497,2498,2500,2501,2504,2505,2507,2508,578],{},[40,2491,2492],{},"Death Korps Drab",[40,2494,559],{},[40,2496,2492],{}," cut with a touch of ",[40,2499,590],{}," to highlight. It runs browner than true feldgrau, so keep the highlight cool rather than sandy. Army Painter Fanatic: ",[40,2502,2503],{},"Uniform Grey"," is a near-direct match, shaded ",[40,2506,2457],{}," and highlighted with ",[40,2509,2510],{},"Ash Grey",[11,2512,2513,2514,2517,2518,2520,2521,2524,2525,578],{},"Speed route: undercoat grey and lay a single coat of Army Painter Speedpaint ",[40,2515,2516],{},"Burnt Moss"," over it, then one edge catch of ",[40,2519,1980],{},". Twenty men in an evening. Citadel's ",[40,2522,2523],{},"Militarum Green"," contrast will do it too but runs yellow, so glaze it back with a thinned ",[40,2526,356],{},[15,2528,2530],{"id":2529},"camouflage-smocks-and-zeltbahnen","Camouflage smocks and Zeltbahnen",[11,2532,2533],{},"Two patterns cover almost everything you will be asked to paint.",[11,2535,2536,2537,2540,2541,612,2543,2545],{},"Splinter (Splittertarn, Heer and Luftwaffe): base ",[40,2538,2539],{},"German Beige WWII",", then irregular angular patches of ",[40,2542,1895],{},[40,2544,1924],{}," - hard-edged shards, not blobs. Finish with a rain of short brown ticks laid on with the tip of the brush. Keep every shape smaller than feels right; at 28mm a generous patch just reads as a stain.",[11,2547,2548,2549,2552,2553,376,2555,612,2557,2559],{},"Pea-dot (Erbsenmuster, Waffen-SS from 1944): base ",[40,2550,2551],{},"Camouflage Olive Green",", then clusters of small dots in ",[40,2554,1924],{},[40,2556,605],{},[40,2558,1917],{},". Dot with the side of the brush tip rather than the point and let clusters overlap.",[11,2561,2562,2563,2565],{},"Either way, wash the finished panel with ",[40,2564,559],{}," afterwards. It pulls the pattern back into one garment instead of three colours arguing with each other.",[15,2567,2569],{"id":2568},"webbing-gear-and-metal","Webbing, gear and metal",[34,2571,2572,2581,2588,2597,2612,2618],{},[37,2573,2574,2575,2577,2578,2580],{},"Y-straps, belt, ammo pouches, boots and rifle sling: ",[40,2576,1917],{},", edge-highlighted ",[40,2579,1921],{},". Never pure black, which kills the detail entirely.",[37,2582,2583,2584,1387,2586,578],{},"Bread bag, canteen cover and mess-tin canvas: ",[40,2585,1810],{},[40,2587,559],{},[37,2589,2590,2591,2594,2595,578],{},"Gas mask canister and entrenching tool: ",[40,2592,2593],{},"German Grey",", edges caught with ",[40,2596,1886],{},[37,2598,2599,2600,1935,2602,1938,2604,1387,2606,2283,2608,442,2610,578],{},"Rifles: ",[40,2601,1924],{},[40,2603,1927],{},[40,2605,1886],{},[40,2607,356],{},[40,2609,1144],{},[40,2611,410],{},[37,2613,2614,2615,2617],{},"Helmets: the same ",[40,2616,2445],{}," as the tunic, shaded harder and highlighted only on the rim and crown. Matching helmet to uniform is what makes a squad look uniformed.",[37,2619,1950,2620,376,2622,376,2624,2626,2627,2629],{},[40,2621,1953],{},[40,2623,559],{},[40,2625,1958],{},", then a touch of ",[40,2628,1962],{}," on nose and cheekbones.",[15,2631,66],{"id":65},[34,2633,2634,2640,2652,2658,2664],{},[37,2635,2636,2639],{},[40,2637,2638],{},"Feldgrau is not green."," If the tunic reads as a colour rather than a drab, keep adding grey and brown until it stops.",[37,2641,2642,2645,2646,2648,2649,2651],{},[40,2643,2644],{},"Vary the base between models."," A drop of ",[40,2647,1810],{}," in one pot, a drop of ",[40,2650,1980],{}," in another. Real sections were never one dye lot and the variation costs nothing.",[37,2653,2654,2657],{},[40,2655,2656],{},"One camo item per figure, not five."," Smock, helmet cover or Zeltbahn - pick one. A squad entirely in splinter looks like a paint test.",[37,2659,2660,2663],{},[40,2661,2662],{},"Keep the leather nearly black."," Germans are the dark-webbing army, and it is the strongest read at arm's length. Lightening it makes them look Soviet.",[37,2665,2666,812,2669,2672],{},[40,2667,2668],{},"Mud the boots, not the tunic.",[774,2670,2671],{"href":1025},"Drybrush"," earth up boots and gaiters only; weathering a wool tunic reads as a stain rather than campaign wear.",[11,2674,2064,2675,2678],{},[774,2676,822],{"href":2677},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=5A6350"," to swap brands or push the base warmer for late war.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2680},[2681,2682,2683,2684,2685],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2434,"depth":89,"text":2435},{"id":2529,"depth":89,"text":2530},{"id":2568,"depth":89,"text":2569},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action Germans - a feldgrau uniform recipe from basecoat to highlight in Vallejo Model Color, splinter and pea-dot camouflage, near-black leather webbing and late-war shade variation.","Bolt Action Germany","#5A6350","Feldgrau done properly, and the camo that breaks it up",{},"/factions/bolt-action-germany",{"title":2418,"description":2686},"factions/bolt-action-germany","q-EubvvTD9urjmfGJrRy1aXJr0E7dq28YwrZEcpoVd0",{"id":2696,"title":2697,"body":2698,"date":833,"description":2973,"extension":98,"faction":2974,"heroImage":510,"hex":2975,"intro":2976,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":2977,"navigation":104,"path":2978,"seo":2979,"stem":2980,"system":2085,"__hash__":2981},"factions/factions/bolt-action-great-britain.md","How to Paint British Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":2699,"toc":2966},[2700,2707,2709,2712,2716,2719,2749,2771,2785,2789,2856,2860,2884,2908,2920,2922,2960],[11,2701,2702,2703,2706],{},"British infantry are the low-contrast test case of Bolt Action. Everything on the figure sits within a narrow band of khaki and brown, so a squad painted carelessly turns into a beige smudge at table distance. The fix is not brighter colours - it is understanding that on a British soldier the webbing is ",[2334,2704,2705],{},"lighter"," than the uniform, the boots are much darker, and those two facts do all the structural work.",[15,2708,18],{"id":17},[11,2710,2711],{},"Battledress serge is a brown-khaki: warmer and browner than Soviet or American drab, with none of the green a lot of painters instinctively add. Over it goes 1937 Pattern webbing, blancoed to a pale green-khaki that stands out clearly against the tunic, plus dark brown or black ammunition boots and a Mk II helmet in a duller khaki-green. Get those three values in the right order - pale webbing, mid uniform, dark boots - and the model reads correctly even before the detail goes on.",[15,2713,2715],{"id":2714},"the-battledress-uniform","The battledress uniform",[11,2717,2718],{},"Undercoat black or dark brown; battledress is a mid-tone and benefits from shadows already being present.",[545,2720,2721,2726,2734,2739],{},[37,2722,1783,2723,2725],{},[40,2724,2012],{},", two thin coats. It is the reference colour for battledress serge and covers well over a dark undercoat.",[37,2727,1790,2728,2730,2731,2733],{},[40,2729,559],{},", or Army Painter ",[40,2732,1538],{}," for the same warm result. Keep it in the folds; a full-garment wash makes serge look like leather.",[37,2735,567,2736,2738],{},[40,2737,2012],{}," back over the raised cloth - the blouse chest, the tops of the sleeves, the front of the thighs.",[37,2740,1804,2741,2743,2744,1811,2746,2748],{},[40,2742,2012],{}," mixed roughly two to one with ",[40,2745,1810],{},[40,2747,611],{}," on the shoulders, the knees and the top of the pack. Stop earlier than feels right: wool serge is matt and dusty.",[11,2750,1824,2751,1903,2753,317,2755,1906,2757,2759,2760,1836,2762,376,2764,345,2766,612,2768,578],{},[40,2752,598],{},[40,2754,559],{},[40,2756,598],{},[40,2758,590],{}," and finally ",[40,2761,570],{},[40,2763,1839],{},[40,2765,1538],{},[40,2767,1848],{},[40,2769,2770],{},"Urban Buff",[11,2772,1851,2773,2775,2776,2778,2779,2781,2782,2784],{},[40,2774,301],{}," and lay a single coat of Citadel ",[40,2777,1857],{}," contrast, or Army Painter Speedpaint ",[40,2780,1861],{},", then edge the folds with ",[40,2783,1810],{},". That is a tabletop-ready platoon in two sessions, and it takes a later highlight pass happily if you want to upgrade the officers.",[15,2786,2788],{"id":2787},"webbing-boots-and-helmet","Webbing, boots and helmet",[34,2790,2791,2812,2823,2833,2846],{},[37,2792,2793,2796,2797,2799,2800,1906,2802,2804,2805,2807,2808,2811],{},[40,2794,2795],{},"1937 Pattern webbing"," - belt, braces, Basic Pouches, small pack: ",[40,2798,1980],{}," basecoat, shade ",[40,2801,559],{},[40,2803,1980],{}," with a little ",[40,2806,611],{},". Blanco was applied in various shades but always ends up ",[2334,2809,2810],{},"paler"," than the tunic. Painting it dark is the single commonest error on British figures.",[37,2813,2814,2815,2817,2818,2820,2821,578],{},"Ammunition boots, rifle slings and the leather jerkin: ",[40,2816,1917],{}," for boots, ",[40,2819,1924],{}," for slings and jerkins, both highlighted with ",[40,2822,1927],{},[37,2824,2825,2826,1387,2828,1845,2830,2832],{},"Mk II helmet: ",[40,2827,1895],{},[40,2829,356],{},[40,2831,1980],{}," on the rim and dome. Keep it distinctly greener and darker than the battledress so the head separates from the body.",[37,2834,2599,2835,2837,2838,2280,2840,1943,2842,442,2844,578],{},[40,2836,1924],{}," stocks, ",[40,2839,1886],{},[40,2841,356],{},[40,2843,1144],{},[40,2845,410],{},[37,2847,1950,2848,376,2850,376,2852,1959,2854,578],{},[40,2849,1953],{},[40,2851,559],{},[40,2853,1958],{},[40,2855,1962],{},[15,2857,2859],{"id":2858},"theatre-variations","Theatre variations",[11,2861,2862,2865,2866,1903,2868,2870,2871,2873,2874,2876,2877,2879,2880,2883],{},[40,2863,2864],{},"8th Army, Western Desert."," Swap the serge for khaki drill: ",[40,2867,605],{},[40,2869,559],{}," shade, ",[40,2872,608],{}," layer, ",[40,2875,622],{}," highlight. Take the webbing almost to ",[40,2878,2331],{}," and sun-bleach the helmet with ",[40,2881,2882],{},"Middle Stone",". Same sculpts, two colour changes, a whole theatre.",[11,2885,2886,2889,2890,2892,2893,612,2895,2897,2898,2900,2901,1387,2904,1390,2906,578],{},[40,2887,2888],{},"Airborne, Denison smock."," Base the smock ",[40,2891,1810],{},", then paint broad, soft-edged sweeping strokes of ",[40,2894,1895],{},[40,2896,1924],{}," over it - long brush-painted shapes, because that is literally how the pattern was applied. Wash the panel with ",[40,2899,559],{}," to unify it, then highlight only the raised folds in the base khaki. The maroon beret is ",[40,2902,2903],{},"Burnt Red",[40,2905,356],{},[40,2907,2224],{},[11,2909,2910,2913,2914,2917,2918,578],{},[40,2911,2912],{},"Commonwealth."," Canadian, Australian and Indian units use the same recipe; the difference is the headgear and the amount of sun-bleaching. For Pacific and Burma theatres, mix a little ",[40,2915,2916],{},"Green Ochre"," into the base and fade the highlight further towards ",[40,2919,611],{},[15,2921,66],{"id":65},[34,2923,2924,2930,2936,2942,2948],{},[37,2925,2926,2929],{},[40,2927,2928],{},"Webbing lighter, boots darker."," If the webbing disappears into the tunic you have lost the entire silhouette of the model.",[37,2931,2932,2935],{},[40,2933,2934],{},"No green in the serge."," Battledress is brown-khaki. Green belongs on the helmet and the Denison, not the blouse.",[37,2937,2938,2941],{},[40,2939,2940],{},"PLCE is not WW2 kit."," The pouch-heavy nylon webbing people picture from modern photographs is a 1980s pattern; a 1944 Tommy wears canvas 37 Pattern with two big chest pouches.",[37,2943,2944,2947],{},[40,2945,2946],{},"Vary the bleaching, not the colour."," Rather than mixing different khakis, keep one base and take the highlight further on some models. Sun-faded and fresh-issue in the same section looks entirely right.",[37,2949,2950,2953,2954,2956,2957,2959],{},[40,2951,2952],{},"Mud the lower legs."," Boots, gaiters and the backs of the calves. A ",[774,2955,2389],{"href":1025}," earth tone there ties the figure to its ",[774,2958,2060],{"href":776}," and stops the khaki floating.",[11,2961,2064,2962,2965],{},[774,2963,822],{"href":2964},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=6E6746"," to swap brands or shift the base towards desert drill.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2967},[2968,2969,2970,2971,2972],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2714,"depth":89,"text":2715},{"id":2787,"depth":89,"text":2788},{"id":2858,"depth":89,"text":2859},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action British and Commonwealth infantry - brown-khaki battledress serge, pale blancoed 37 Pattern webbing, the 8th Army khaki drill swap and a Denison smock recipe for airborne.","Bolt Action Great Britain","#6E6746","Brown-khaki serge, pale webbing and a Denison smock that works",{},"/factions/bolt-action-great-britain",{"title":2697,"description":2973},"factions/bolt-action-great-britain","9zSlkL03aX761Kd8HPxPoUSpHVSOlNR-htfU8dp9oy4",{"id":2983,"title":2984,"body":2985,"date":2076,"description":3268,"extension":98,"faction":3269,"heroImage":510,"hex":3270,"intro":3271,"lastUpdated":2076,"meta":3272,"navigation":104,"path":3273,"seo":3274,"stem":3275,"system":2085,"__hash__":3276},"factions/factions/bolt-action-hungary.md","How to Paint Hungarian Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":2986,"toc":3260},[2987,2990,2992,2995,2999,3002,3029,3041,3062,3074,3076,3150,3154,3157,3174,3185,3188,3207,3209,3254],[11,2988,2989],{},"Every decision on a Hungarian figure comes back to one thing: the Royal Hungarian Army fought alongside Germany, was armed in part by Germany, and looked nothing like it. The Honved uniform is a brown-khaki, warm and earthy, where German cloth is a cool grey-green - and because the boxes are full of Panzerschrecks and German-pattern helmets, the pull towards painting them feldgrau is strong. Resist it and you get one of the most distinctive armies on the table for the price of three boxes and a short shopping list.",[15,2991,18],{"id":17},[11,2993,2994],{},"Brown-khaki tunic, breeches and helmet, all the same warm tone, over warm brown leather kit and high boots. The head is where the nation shows: the Bocskai sidecap with its shaped front, worn as often as the helmet. Camouflage is the exception rather than the rule, so a section is essentially two browns and a metal, and the interest comes from varying the cloth rather than from pattern.",[15,2996,2998],{"id":2997},"the-honved-brown-khaki-uniform","The Honved brown-khaki uniform",[11,3000,3001],{},"Undercoat black or dark brown; the base is a warm mid tone that sits happily over either.",[545,3003,3004,3009,3015,3020],{},[37,3005,1783,3006,3008],{},[40,3007,2012],{},", two thin coats. It is the closest single bottle to Honved cloth - browner than any Allied khaki and a long way from feldgrau.",[37,3010,1790,3011,1793,3013,2117],{},[40,3012,559],{},[40,3014,1538],{},[37,3016,567,3017,3019],{},[40,3018,2012],{}," back over the raised cloth: the chest, the tops of the shoulders, the front of the thighs and the tops of the boots.",[37,3021,1804,3022,1807,3024,3026,3027,1814],{},[40,3023,2012],{},[40,3025,2916],{},", then a sparing final catch of ",[40,3028,608],{},[11,3030,3031,3032,3034,3035,3037,3038,3040],{},"Hungarian cloth was described anywhere from a warm brown-khaki to a distinctly greener shade, and surviving garments bear that out, so variation between models is not a liberty - it is the record. For the greener, later 1943M cloth, cut the base with ",[40,3033,1810],{}," and take the highlight through ",[40,3036,2916],{}," only; for a well-worn tunic, add a drop of ",[40,3039,1927],{}," and drop the last catch entirely. Doing this across a squad costs nothing and is the single cheapest way to make a small force look real.",[11,3042,1824,3043,1903,3046,317,3048,1906,3050,1836,3052,1840,3054,3057,3058,1845,3060,578],{},[40,3044,3045],{},"XV-88",[40,3047,559],{},[40,3049,3045],{},[40,3051,590],{},[40,3053,1839],{},[40,3055,3056],{},"Oak Brown"," in the base, shaded ",[40,3059,1538],{},[40,3061,1848],{},[11,3063,1851,3064,1854,3066,1858,3068,1862,3071,3073],{},[40,3065,301],{},[40,3067,646],{},[40,3069,3070],{},"Hardened Leather",[40,3072,608],{},". Three boxes is the whole range, so at this pace a Hungarian force is an evening's work rather than a campaign.",[15,3075,1869],{"id":1868},[34,3077,3078,3094,3106,3118,3125,3140],{},[37,3079,3080,3081,3083,3084,3086,3087,3090,3091,3093],{},"Helmet: the same ",[40,3082,2012],{}," as the tunic, shaded harder with ",[40,3085,356],{}," and caught only on the rim and crown. This matters more here than for any other nation - the shell is German in shape, and the ",[2334,3088,3089],{},"only"," thing stopping it reading as German is that it matches a brown tunic instead of a grey-green one. Where a reference shows a greener helmet, use ",[40,3092,2551],{}," and keep the tunic brown.",[37,3095,3096,3097,3099,3100,612,3102,3105],{},"Bocskai sidecap: uniform khaki with the crown edge caught in ",[40,3098,608],{},", and the national chevron picked out in ",[40,3101,2331],{},[40,3103,3104],{},"Carmine Red"," if you want the one spot of colour in the army.",[37,3107,3108,3109,1903,3111,1906,3113,3115,3116,578],{},"Belt, Y-straps, pouches and pack: ",[40,3110,2349],{},[40,3112,559],{},[40,3114,1927],{},". Warm brown leather throughout; officers' riding boots and holsters go darker with ",[40,3117,1924],{},[37,3119,1914,3120,1918,3122,3124],{},[40,3121,1917],{},[40,3123,1921],{}," for issue black, or the brown leather recipe - both are seen, so pick one per squad.",[37,3126,3127,3128,1935,3130,1938,3132,1387,3134,1943,3136,442,3138,578],{},"35M Mannlicher rifles and the Solothurn anti-tank rifle: ",[40,3129,1934],{},[40,3131,1927],{},[40,3133,1886],{},[40,3135,356],{},[40,3137,1144],{},[40,3139,410],{},[37,3141,1950,3142,376,3144,376,3146,1959,3148,578],{},[40,3143,1953],{},[40,3145,559],{},[40,3147,1958],{},[40,3149,1962],{},[15,3151,3153],{"id":3152},"german-kit-hungarian-soldier","German kit, Hungarian soldier",[11,3155,3156],{},"The support boxes are full of German-supplied weapons, and painting those in German factory colours while the man stays brown is both correct and a lovely bit of storytelling on the table.",[11,3158,3159,3160,692,3163,1995,3165,3167,3168,3170,3171,3173],{},"Give the Panzerschreck tube and its shield a base of ",[40,3161,3162],{},"Dark Yellow",[40,3164,559],{},[40,3166,605],{},", with chips of ",[40,3169,1917],{}," on the edges. Ammunition crates and stowage can take the same treatment. Against a squad in ",[40,3172,2012],{},", that single yellow-ochre item reads instantly as issued from somebody else's stores.",[11,3175,3176,3177,612,3179,3181,3182,3184],{},"Camouflage, where you paint it at all, belongs on shelter quarters and a few smocks rather than on the section: soft blotches of ",[40,3178,2551],{},[40,3180,1924],{}," over the uniform khaki, washed back with ",[40,3183,559],{},". One item per squad, no more.",[15,3186,2342],{"id":3187},"vehicles",[11,3189,3190,3191,3193,3194,612,3196,3198,3199,3201,3202,1535,3204,3206],{},"The Toldi, Turan, Zrinyi and Nimrod carry a three-tone disruptive scheme, and it is one of the more attractive in the game. Base ",[40,3192,1895],{},", lay soft-edged patches of ",[40,3195,2224],{},[40,3197,605],{}," across the hull and turret, then drybrush the edges with ",[40,3200,608],{}," and dust the running gear. The Hungarian cross goes on last in ",[40,3203,2331],{},[40,3205,1917],{}," arms - freehand it small, and it will do more for the model than any amount of weathering.",[15,3208,66],{"id":65},[34,3210,3211,3217,3228,3233,3242],{},[37,3212,3213,3216],{},[40,3214,3215],{},"Brown, never feldgrau."," German helmet, German rocket launcher, Hungarian soldier. The tunic is the thing that tells the table who these men are.",[37,3218,3219,3222,3223,612,3225,3227],{},[40,3220,3221],{},"Vary the cloth."," Hungarian khaki was inconsistent, so drops of ",[40,3224,1810],{},[40,3226,1927],{}," in different pots are historically right and cost nothing.",[37,3229,3230,3232],{},[40,3231,2031],{}," Belts, straps and boots in warm brown against a warm brown tunic - keep the leather a step darker and glossier rather than a different colour.",[37,3234,3235,3238,3239,3241],{},[40,3236,3237],{},"Paint the German kit German."," A ",[40,3240,3162],{}," Panzerschreck in a brown-khaki section is the single best detail in the army.",[37,3243,3244,3238,3247,2054,3249,3251,3252,578],{},[40,3245,3246],{},"Dust the lower half.",[774,3248,2053],{"href":1025},[40,3250,605],{}," up the boots and breeches suits the Eastern Front and ties the model to its ",[774,3253,2060],{"href":776},[11,3255,2064,3256,3259],{},[774,3257,822],{"href":3258},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=8C6A3E"," to swap brands or green the base towards the 1943M cloth.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":3261},[3262,3263,3264,3265,3266,3267],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2997,"depth":89,"text":2998},{"id":1868,"depth":89,"text":1869},{"id":3152,"depth":89,"text":3153},{"id":3187,"depth":89,"text":2342},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action Hungarians - the Honved brown-khaki uniform, the greener 1943M cloth, brown leather kit, the Bocskai sidecap, German-supplied weapons and Turan three-tone vehicle camouflage.","Bolt Action Hungary","#8C6A3E","Honved brown-khaki - and why they must never look German",{},"/factions/bolt-action-hungary",{"title":2984,"description":3268},"factions/bolt-action-hungary","n1vBeLbcSxtH3Mii-AekS5KsrCjlPu8o8q-V7jAIzEI",{"id":3278,"title":3279,"body":3280,"date":2076,"description":3594,"extension":98,"faction":3595,"heroImage":510,"hex":3596,"intro":3597,"lastUpdated":2076,"meta":3598,"navigation":104,"path":3599,"seo":3600,"stem":3601,"system":2085,"__hash__":3602},"factions/factions/bolt-action-italy.md","How to Paint Italian Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":3281,"toc":3586},[3282,3288,3290,3293,3297,3300,3329,3339,3360,3375,3379,3382,3396,3413,3417,3472,3476,3490,3503,3518,3524,3540,3542,3580],[11,3283,3284,3285,3287],{},"Italians are the grey-green army, and the mistake almost everyone makes is painting them German. Grigio-verde and feldgrau are both desaturated grey-greens, but grigio-verde is markedly ",[2334,3286,2705],{},", cleaner and greyer - closer to a sage than to a drab - and a squad painted in German cloth reads as Wehrmacht with the wrong helmets on. The second thing to know is that Italy is really two armies in one range: continental troops in grey-green wool, and desert troops in sand-coloured drill. Both are a single base bottle plus a wash, which makes this one of the cheapest nations on the shelf to get onto a table.",[15,3289,18],{"id":17},[11,3291,3292],{},"Grigio-verde tunic, breeches and M33 helmet, all the same tone, against warm brown leather belts, braces and pouches. Almost nothing else competes: no bright facings, no blackened webbing, no pattern on the average rifleman. What carries the character is headgear - the Bersaglieri's spray of black cockerel feathers, the Alpini's felt hat and single feather, the Blackshirt fez - and one telo mimetico item where it belongs.",[15,3294,3296],{"id":3295},"the-grigio-verde-uniform","The grigio-verde uniform",[11,3298,3299],{},"Undercoat grey or black. Grigio-verde is a mid tone and covers happily over either.",[545,3301,3302,3307,3315,3319],{},[37,3303,1783,3304,3306],{},[40,3305,1980],{},", two thin coats. This is the reference bottle for Italian cloth and the whole reason the army is quick to paint.",[37,3308,1790,3309,3311,3312,3314],{},[40,3310,559],{}," in the folds for a warm, dusty result, or Army Painter ",[40,3313,2457],{}," across the garment if you want the grey-green to stay cool. Italians look better dusty than clean, so the warm option is rarely wrong.",[37,3316,567,3317,1801],{},[40,3318,1980],{},[37,3320,1804,3321,1807,3323,1811,3326,1814],{},[40,3322,1980],{},[40,3324,3325],{},"Stone Grey",[40,3327,3328],{},"Sky Grey",[11,3330,3331,3332,3335,3336,3338],{},"For an older or greener tunic - and Italian cloth varied a great deal by year and contractor - swap the base for ",[40,3333,3334],{},"Olive Grey",", which sits a step greener and darker. Mixing a drop of ",[40,3337,1810],{}," into some pots covers wartime dye variation for nothing.",[11,3340,1824,3341,1903,3343,317,3345,1906,3347,3350,3351,1840,3353,3057,3356,1845,3358,578],{},[40,3342,2492],{},[40,3344,559],{},[40,3346,2492],{},[40,3348,3349],{},"Ogryn Camo",". It runs browner than true grigio-verde, so keep the highlight grey rather than sandy. Army Painter Fanatic: ",[40,3352,2503],{},[40,3354,3355],{},"Army Green",[40,3357,2457],{},[40,3359,2510],{},[11,3361,1851,3362,1854,3364,1858,3366,3369,3370,3372,3373,578],{},[40,3363,301],{},[40,3365,2523],{},[40,3367,3368],{},"Camo Cloak",", then glaze the whole figure with a thinned ",[40,3371,356],{}," to pull the green towards grey and edge the folds in ",[40,3374,3325],{},[15,3376,3378],{"id":3377},"telo-mimetico-and-the-sahariana","Telo mimetico and the sahariana",[11,3380,3381],{},"Italy fielded the first mass-produced camouflage pattern in the world, and it turns up on shelter quarters, helmet covers and the smocks worn by paratroopers and San Marco marines. It is three colours on a light ground: irregular, rounded patches - not shards - of a red-brown and a grey-green over sand.",[11,3383,3384,3385,3387,3388,612,3390,3392,3393,3395],{},"Base the panel ",[40,3386,608],{},", then lay soft-edged blotches of ",[40,3389,2224],{},[40,3391,2551],{}," across it, letting the two touch in places. Keep every patch smaller than instinct suggests; at 28mm a generous blob reads as a stain. Wash the finished panel with ",[40,3394,559],{}," to bring the three colours back into one piece of cloth.",[11,3397,3398,3399,1903,3401,2870,3403,2873,3405,3407,3408,3410,3411,578],{},"For North and East Africa, swap the wool entirely. Khaki drill and the sahariana jacket go ",[40,3400,605],{},[40,3402,559],{},[40,3404,608],{},[40,3406,622],{}," highlight - four steps, one theatre, the same sculpts. Sun-bleach the helmet with ",[40,3409,2882],{}," and take the pith helmet's cover almost to ",[40,3412,2331],{},[15,3414,3416],{"id":3415},"leather-helmets-and-metal","Leather, helmets and metal",[34,3418,3419,3430,3439,3447,3462],{},[37,3420,1899,3421,1903,3423,1906,3425,1827,3427,3429],{},[40,3422,1902],{},[40,3424,559],{},[40,3426,1902],{},[40,3428,608],{},". Italian leather is warm and mid-toned, closer to the French than the German.",[37,3431,3432,3433,1387,3435,1845,3437,578],{},"Boots and officers' equipment: ",[40,3434,1924],{},[40,3436,356],{},[40,3438,1927],{},[37,3440,3441,3442,3083,3444,3446],{},"M33 helmet: exactly the same ",[40,3443,1980],{},[40,3445,356],{}," and caught only on the rim and crown. Matching helmet to uniform is what makes the section look issued.",[37,3448,3449,3450,1935,3452,1938,3454,1387,3456,1943,3458,442,3460,578],{},"Carcano rifles and the Breda 30: ",[40,3451,1934],{},[40,3453,1927],{},[40,3455,1886],{},[40,3457,356],{},[40,3459,1144],{},[40,3461,410],{},[37,3463,1950,3464,376,3466,376,3468,1959,3470,578],{},[40,3465,1953],{},[40,3467,559],{},[40,3469,1958],{},[40,3471,1962],{},[15,3473,3475],{"id":3474},"the-sub-ranges","The sub-ranges",[11,3477,3478,3481,3482,1087,3484,3486,3487,3489],{},[40,3479,3480],{},"Bersaglieri"," are the ones everybody recognises: the spray of black cockerel feathers on the right of the helmet. Base them ",[40,3483,1917],{},[40,3485,356],{},", then drybrush the feather tips ",[40,3488,1921],{}," so the mass does not disappear into a black lump.",[11,3491,3492,3495,3496,3498,3499,612,3501,578],{},[40,3493,3494],{},"Alpini"," wear the felt mountain hat in ",[40,3497,1980],{}," shaded harder than the tunic, with a single black feather and a rope-and-piton kit of ",[40,3500,1810],{},[40,3502,1886],{},[11,3504,3505,3508,3509,3511,3512,3514,3515,3517],{},[40,3506,3507],{},"Blackshirts"," of the militia get the black shirt and fez: ",[40,3510,1917],{}," basecoat, edge-highlighted ",[40,3513,1921],{},", with the fez tassel in ",[40,3516,3104],{},". Never pure black - it kills the folds.",[11,3519,3520,3523],{},[40,3521,3522],{},"Folgore paratroopers"," in North Africa are the place for sand-coloured jump smocks over grigio-verde trousers, plus telo mimetico helmet covers. The mixed palette is why they look so different from a line squad built from the same sprue.",[11,3525,3526,3528,3529,3531,3532,612,3534,3536,3537,3539],{},[40,3527,2342],{}," - the AB41 armoured car, the Semovente, the P40 - take a sand base of ",[40,3530,605],{}," with soft blotches of ",[40,3533,2551],{},[40,3535,2224],{},", drybrushed ",[40,3538,622],{}," on the edges and dusted heavily around the running gear.",[15,3541,66],{"id":65},[34,3543,3544,3550,3555,3561,3567],{},[37,3545,3546,3549],{},[40,3547,3548],{},"Lighter than feldgrau."," If your Italians could pass for Germans in a photograph, add grey and lighten the base until they cannot.",[37,3551,3552,3554],{},[40,3553,2031],{}," Against a cool grey-green tunic the brown kit does all the contrast work, so keep it warm and do not darken it.",[37,3556,3557,3560],{},[40,3558,3559],{},"One camouflage item."," A helmet cover or a shelter quarter, not a whole squad in telo mimetico. The pattern was issued as kit, not as a uniform.",[37,3562,3563,3566],{},[40,3564,3565],{},"Pick the theatre before the paint."," Grey-green wool or sand drill - mixing them in one section is the fastest way to make an army look unplanned.",[37,3568,3569,3238,3572,2054,3574,3576,3577,3579],{},[40,3570,3571],{},"Dust everything.",[774,3573,2053],{"href":1025},[40,3575,622],{}," up the puttees and across the pack ties the figure to its ",[774,3578,2060],{"href":776}," and suits both theatres.",[11,3581,2064,3582,3585],{},[774,3583,822],{"href":3584},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=8E9078"," to swap brands or trade the grey-green for desert drill.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":3587},[3588,3589,3590,3591,3592,3593],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":3295,"depth":89,"text":3296},{"id":3377,"depth":89,"text":3378},{"id":3415,"depth":89,"text":3416},{"id":3474,"depth":89,"text":3475},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action Italians - grigio-verde uniform cloth, the telo mimetico camouflage pattern, sahariana khaki drill for North Africa, brown leather kit and the Bersaglieri, Alpini, Folgore and Blackshirt variations.","Bolt Action Italy","#8E9078","Grigio-verde, a sand-coloured desert and the first camouflage pattern",{},"/factions/bolt-action-italy",{"title":3279,"description":3594},"factions/bolt-action-italy","HfKgE9xdyMf0x51hlhWHbTip2uEWYqO9u0Y0IZpGjQQ",{"id":3604,"title":3605,"body":3606,"date":833,"description":3875,"extension":98,"faction":3876,"heroImage":510,"hex":3877,"intro":3878,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":3879,"navigation":104,"path":3880,"seo":3881,"stem":3882,"system":2085,"__hash__":3883},"factions/factions/bolt-action-japan.md","How to Paint Japanese Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":3607,"toc":3867},[3608,3615,3617,3620,3624,3627,3657,3666,3687,3700,3704,3768,3772,3790,3802,3806,3827,3829,3861],[11,3609,3610,3611,3614],{},"Imperial Japanese Army infantry look wrong the instant the uniform goes too sandy. The IJA tunic is a mustard khaki - a yellow-brown with real chroma in it, not the dusty beige of desert drill - and if you paint it the same colour as an 8th Army figure you have painted a British soldier in a different hat. The second thing that makes them read as Japanese is that the puttees, webbing and pack straps run a shade ",[2334,3612,3613],{},"greener"," than the tunic. That two-tone khaki is the signature, and it costs one extra pot.",[15,3616,18],{"id":17},[11,3618,3619],{},"Mustard-khaki tunic and breeches, greener khaki puttees wound from ankle to knee, warm reddish-brown leather kit, a Type 90 helmet often netted or tied with foliage, and one small hot red note - a rank patch, a flag, the sun disc on a banner. The overall model is warm, which is unusual in WW2 ranges dominated by cool drabs, and it is why a Japanese squad stands out on a table full of Germans and Soviets.",[15,3621,3623],{"id":3622},"the-mustard-khaki-uniform","The mustard-khaki uniform",[11,3625,3626],{},"Undercoat black or dark brown; the mustard is bright enough that a light undercoat leaves you no shadow to work from.",[545,3628,3629,3635,3643,3648],{},[37,3630,1783,3631,3634],{},[40,3632,3633],{},"Japanese Uniform WWII",", two thin coats. It is the reference tone and covers awkwardly in one pass - be patient with the second coat rather than laying it on thick.",[37,3636,1790,3637,3639,3640,3642],{},[40,3638,559],{}," in the folds. ",[40,3641,563],{}," over the whole garment is a good alternative that keeps the yellow, where a black wash will grey it out entirely.",[37,3644,567,3645,3647],{},[40,3646,3633],{}," back over the raised cloth: chest, shoulders, the front of the thighs and the tops of the breeches.",[37,3649,1804,3650,1807,3652,3654,3655,1814],{},[40,3651,3633],{},[40,3653,2916],{},", then a very light final catch of ",[40,3656,608],{},[11,3658,3659,3660,3662,3663,3665],{},"For officers and for the sun-faded Pacific island garrisons, add ",[40,3661,605],{}," to the highlight mix and take it a step further. For a browner, dirtier late-war look, mix a little ",[40,3664,1786],{}," into the base.",[11,3667,1824,3668,1903,3670,317,3672,1906,3674,3676,3677,3679,3680,1387,3682,1390,3685,578],{},[40,3669,552],{},[40,3671,559],{},[40,3673,552],{},[40,3675,590],{}," and then ",[40,3678,570],{}," on the sharpest folds. Army Painter Fanatic: ",[40,3681,1839],{},[40,3683,3684],{},"Sepia Tone",[40,3686,1848],{},[11,3688,1851,3689,1854,3691,1858,3693,3696,3697,3699],{},[40,3690,301],{},[40,3692,642],{},[40,3694,3695],{},"Brownish Decay",", then a single edge catch of ",[40,3698,608],{},". Both keep the yellow, which most one-coat khakis do not.",[15,3701,3703],{"id":3702},"puttees-webbing-and-leather","Puttees, webbing and leather",[34,3705,3706,3718,3729,3740,3756],{},[37,3707,3708,3709,1387,3711,1845,3713,1827,3715,3717],{},"Puttees and canvas gaiters: ",[40,3710,1810],{},[40,3712,559],{},[40,3714,1810],{},[40,3716,608],{},". Sitting a step greener and duller than the tunic is the whole point - if the legs match the body, the two-tone effect is gone.",[37,3719,3720,3721,3723,3724,1047,3726,3728],{},"Pack, haversack and shoulder straps: ",[40,3722,2916],{}," basecoat shaded ",[40,3725,559],{},[40,3727,1810],{}," for a more worn look.",[37,3730,3731,3732,1903,3734,2870,3736,3739],{},"Belt, ammunition pouches, bayonet frog and boots: ",[40,3733,2224],{},[40,3735,559],{},[40,3737,3738],{},"Orange Brown"," highlight. IJA leather is warm and reddish, not the cool near-black of German kit, and it is worth exaggerating slightly at 28mm.",[37,3741,3742,3743,3745,3746,376,3748,2280,3750,2283,3752,442,3754,578],{},"Arisaka rifle: ",[40,3744,1934],{}," stock highlighted ",[40,3747,1927],{},[40,3749,1886],{},[40,3751,356],{},[40,3753,1144],{},[40,3755,410],{},[37,3757,1950,3758,376,3760,376,3762,3764,3765,3767],{},[40,3759,1953],{},[40,3761,559],{},[40,3763,1958],{},", a small touch of ",[40,3766,1962],{},". Keep the shade heavier than usual - almost every IJA figure is helmeted or capped, so the face sits in shadow.",[15,3769,3771],{"id":3770},"helmets-and-foliage","Helmets and foliage",[11,3773,3774,3775,666,3778,3780,3781,3783,3784,3786,3787,3789],{},"The Type 90 helmet is a browner khaki-green than the tunic. Basecoat ",[40,3776,3777],{},"Yellow Olive",[40,3779,356],{},", highlight the rim and dome with ",[40,3782,3777],{}," plus a little ",[40,3785,1980],{},". The star badge is tiny: a dot of ",[40,3788,3104],{}," is more convincing than an attempt at the five points.",[11,3791,3792,3793,3795,3796,3798,3799,3801],{},"Netting and tied foliage are the Pacific-theatre signature. Scumble ",[40,3794,2551],{}," over the helmet in broken patches, add a few darker leaf shapes in ",[40,3797,2346],{},", then catch the very tops with ",[40,3800,2916],{}," so the foliage reads as separate from the steel. Keep it to the helmet and one shoulder - foliage over the whole figure turns into texture rather than camouflage.",[15,3803,3805],{"id":3804},"hinomaru-red","Hinomaru red",[11,3807,3808,3809,666,3812,3814,3815,3817,3818,3820,3821,3823,3824,3826],{},"Rank patches, unit flags and the sun disc all use one red. Basecoat ",[40,3810,3811],{},"Flat Red",[40,3813,3104],{}," in the folds, highlight with ",[40,3816,3811],{}," warmed by a touch of ",[40,3819,3738],{},". For a good-luck flag, base the cloth ",[40,3822,2331],{}," rather than pure white, paint the disc in ",[40,3825,3811],{},", and suggest the written characters with fine grey-brown ticks rather than trying to letter them - at this scale, implied text reads better than attempted text.",[15,3828,66],{"id":65},[34,3830,3831,3837,3843,3849,3855],{},[37,3832,3833,3836],{},[40,3834,3835],{},"Mustard, not sand."," If the tunic has gone beige, add yellow back until it looks warm again.",[37,3838,3839,3842],{},[40,3840,3841],{},"Puttees a shade greener."," The two-tone khaki does more to identify the army than any badge.",[37,3844,3845,3848],{},[40,3846,3847],{},"Keep the leather warm."," Reddish-brown belts and pouches against mustard cloth is the palette; blackened kit belongs on the Germans.",[37,3850,3851,3854],{},[40,3852,3853],{},"One red note per figure."," The banners carry the rest of it.",[37,3856,3857,3860],{},[40,3858,3859],{},"Do not net every helmet."," Two or three foliaged helmets in a squad look like field craft; a whole section of them looks like a hedge.",[11,3862,2064,3863,3866],{},[774,3864,822],{"href":3865},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=A38F52"," to swap brands or fade the base for a sun-bleached island garrison.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":3868},[3869,3870,3871,3872,3873,3874],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":3622,"depth":89,"text":3623},{"id":3702,"depth":89,"text":3703},{"id":3770,"depth":89,"text":3771},{"id":3804,"depth":89,"text":3805},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action Japanese - the IJA mustard-khaki uniform, greener puttees and webbing, Type 90 helmets with foliage, brown leather kit and hinomaru red banner accents.","Bolt Action Japan","#A38F52","Mustard khaki, two-tone leg wraps and one hot red note",{},"/factions/bolt-action-japan",{"title":3605,"description":3875},"factions/bolt-action-japan","YqacYs5VdvUZzfaGwhvYiI1bETmg6e0JEdGHmMG6Mmg",{"id":3885,"title":3886,"body":3887,"date":2076,"description":4162,"extension":98,"faction":4163,"heroImage":510,"hex":4164,"intro":4165,"lastUpdated":2076,"meta":4166,"navigation":104,"path":4167,"seo":4168,"stem":4169,"system":2085,"__hash__":4170},"factions/factions/bolt-action-poland.md","How to Paint Polish Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":3888,"toc":4154},[3889,3892,3894,3897,3901,3904,3932,3941,3960,3975,3979,3982,4005,4009,4072,4074,4085,4098,4110,4112,4148],[11,3890,3891],{},"The Polish army of September 1939 wears a khaki all of its own: greyer and greener than British battledress, browner and duller than Soviet cloth, and nothing like feldgrau. It sits right in the middle of the drab band, which sounds like a problem and is actually the opportunity - one base bottle, one wash and two highlights cover every figure in the range, and the character comes from three details instead: the four-cornered rogatywka cap, warm brown leather kit, and a helmet whose paint finish was visibly rough. Five boxes make the whole army, so the shopping list here is genuinely short.",[15,3893,18],{"id":17},[11,3895,3896],{},"Greyed khaki tunic, breeches and greatcoat, brown leather belt, braces and pouches, and a wz.31 helmet in a darker khaki-green with a granular, sandpapery surface. Greatcoats are everywhere - the infantry box is a greatcoat box - which means the largest flat area on most models is one colour, and that puts the whole weight of the scheme on getting the base tone right and varying it.",[15,3898,3900],{"id":3899},"the-wz36-uniform","The wz.36 uniform",[11,3902,3903],{},"Undercoat black or dark brown; the khaki is a mid tone and benefits from shadow already being present.",[545,3905,3906,3911,3918,3923],{},[37,3907,1783,3908,3910],{},[40,3909,1820],{},", two thin coats. This is the reference bottle for Polish 1939 cloth, and its slight grey cast is exactly what separates it from a British tunic.",[37,3912,1790,3913,1793,3915,3917],{},[40,3914,559],{},[40,3916,2457],{}," across the whole garment if you want it to stay cool rather than warming towards brown.",[37,3919,567,3920,3922],{},[40,3921,1820],{}," back over the raised cloth: the chest, the tops of the shoulders, the front of the thighs, and the length of the greatcoat skirt.",[37,3924,1804,3925,1807,3927,3026,3929,3931],{},[40,3926,1820],{},[40,3928,2916],{},[40,3930,608],{}," on shoulders, elbows and the tops of the folds.",[11,3933,3934,3935,3937,3938,3940],{},"Run the greatcoat a shade apart from the tunic - a drop of ",[40,3936,3325],{}," in the base for the coat, a drop of ",[40,3939,1810],{}," for the tunic. Two related khakis on one model reads as issued cloth; a single flat khaki reads as a plastic figure.",[11,3942,1824,3943,3945,3946,376,3948,1833,3950,1836,3952,1840,3954,692,3956,1845,3958,578],{},[40,3944,598],{}," basecoat greyed with a touch of ",[40,3947,1019],{},[40,3949,559],{},[40,3951,590],{},[40,3953,1839],{},[40,3955,2503],{},[40,3957,2457],{},[40,3959,1848],{},[11,3961,1851,3962,3964,3965,3968,3969,3971,3972,3974],{},[40,3963,301],{},", one coat of Army Painter Speedpaint ",[40,3966,3967],{},"Mummified Grime"," or Citadel ",[40,3970,2523],{}," contrast, then an edge catch of ",[40,3973,608],{},". Greatcoats are large uninterrupted panels, so the one-coat route flatters them - this is a nation you can field in two evenings.",[15,3976,3978],{"id":3977},"the-wz31-helmet","The wz.31 helmet",[11,3980,3981],{},"Worth its own two minutes, because the Polish helmet did not have a smooth finish: the paint was applied with a granular texture, and showing that is the single most Polish thing on the model.",[545,3983,3984,3989,3994,4000],{},[37,3985,549,3986,3988],{},[40,3987,2551],{}," - distinctly darker and greener than the uniform.",[37,3990,556,3991,3993],{},[40,3992,356],{}," under the brim and around the rivets.",[37,3995,3996,3997,3999],{},"Stipple, rather than brush, a thinned coat of the same ",[40,3998,2551],{}," across the dome to break the surface up. A little modelling paste in the mix exaggerates it nicely at 28mm.",[37,4001,722,4002,4004],{},[40,4003,1980],{}," lightly over the whole dome. The texture catches it and does the work for you.",[15,4006,4008],{"id":4007},"leather-kit-and-metal","Leather, kit and metal",[34,4010,4011,4021,4030,4038,4047,4062],{},[37,4012,4013,4014,1903,4016,1906,4018,4020],{},"Belt, Y-braces, pouches and pack straps: ",[40,4015,2349],{},[40,4017,559],{},[40,4019,1927],{},". Warm brown leather, mid-toned - the same tell as a Soviet, and nothing like German blackened straps.",[37,4022,4023,4024,1387,4026,1845,4028,578],{},"Officers' map cases, holsters and riding boots: ",[40,4025,1924],{},[40,4027,356],{},[40,4029,1927],{},[37,4031,4032,4033,1918,4035,4037],{},"Ankle boots with puttees, or long boots: ",[40,4034,1917],{},[40,4036,1921],{}," for issue black, or the brown leather recipe for reservists.",[37,4039,4040,4041,2228,4044,4046],{},"Rogatywka and field cap: the uniform khaki, with the cap eagle picked out in ",[40,4042,4043],{},"Silver",[40,4045,356],{},". It is a two-millimetre detail that names the nation.",[37,4048,4049,4050,1935,4052,1938,4054,1387,4056,1943,4058,442,4060,578],{},"wz.29 Mauser rifles and the wz.28 automatic rifle: ",[40,4051,1934],{},[40,4053,1927],{},[40,4055,1886],{},[40,4057,356],{},[40,4059,1144],{},[40,4061,410],{},[37,4063,1950,4064,376,4066,376,4068,1959,4070,578],{},[40,4065,1953],{},[40,4067,559],{},[40,4069,1958],{},[40,4071,1962],{},[15,4073,1966],{"id":1965},[11,4075,4076,4079,4080,329,4082,4084],{},[40,4077,4078],{},"Cavalry."," Lance pennants are the one saturated colour in the army: ",[40,4081,2331],{},[40,4083,3104],{},", painted as two clean bands with a hairline of the base khaki left showing at the staff.",[11,4086,4087,4089,4090,4092,4093,612,4095,4097],{},[40,4088,1989],{}," The TKS tankette and the 7TP carry a three-colour disruptive scheme of soft-edged patches: base ",[40,4091,605],{},", then blotches of ",[40,4094,2551],{},[40,4096,1924],{}," with blurred rather than hard edges. Keep the sand visible between the patches - it is the ground colour, not a fourth blob.",[11,4099,4100,4103,4104,4106,4107,4109],{},[40,4101,4102],{},"Poles in exile."," The 1st Armoured Division in Normandy and the 2nd Corps in Italy fought in British battledress, so those figures take the British recipe entirely: ",[40,4105,2012],{}," cloth and pale ",[40,4108,1980],{}," webbing, with the Polish eagle and a red-and-white flash as the only change. If you already own a British force, half a Polish one is on the shelf.",[15,4111,66],{"id":65},[34,4113,4114,4120,4126,4132,4138],{},[37,4115,4116,4119],{},[40,4117,4118],{},"Grey the khaki."," If it looks like a British tunic, add grey; if it looks German, add brown. Polish cloth sits between the two on purpose.",[37,4121,4122,4125],{},[40,4123,4124],{},"Brown leather, always."," Belt, braces and pouches all warm brown. Dark webbing turns a Pole into a German in one brushstroke.",[37,4127,4128,4131],{},[40,4129,4130],{},"Texture the helmet."," Stipple it, do not paint it smooth. It is the detail that people who know the army will look for.",[37,4133,4134,4137],{},[40,4135,4136],{},"Two khakis for the greatcoats."," Coat and tunic a shade apart. A greatcoat squad in one flat colour is a very large flat colour.",[37,4139,4140,4142,4143,4145,4146,578],{},[40,4141,2385],{}," September 1939 was a fighting retreat: a ",[774,4144,2389],{"href":1025}," earth tone up the boots and coat skirt ties them to the ",[774,4147,2060],{"href":776},[11,4149,2064,4150,4153],{},[774,4151,822],{"href":4152},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=78765A"," to swap brands or push the base greener for the wz.31 helmet.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":4155},[4156,4157,4158,4159,4160,4161],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":3899,"depth":89,"text":3900},{"id":3977,"depth":89,"text":3978},{"id":4007,"depth":89,"text":4008},{"id":1965,"depth":89,"text":1966},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action Poles - the wz.36 khaki uniform and greatcoat, the textured wz.31 helmet, brown leather kit, the rogatywka cap and the 1939 vehicle camouflage.","Bolt Action Poland","#78765A","A greyed khaki, brown leather and a helmet with a texture",{},"/factions/bolt-action-poland",{"title":3886,"description":4162},"factions/bolt-action-poland","ZspeEYgk_wmavzYAJoH5jHToeMCMQvNH4evTuTkmIcY",{"id":4172,"title":4173,"body":4174,"date":833,"description":4455,"extension":98,"faction":4456,"heroImage":510,"hex":4457,"intro":4458,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":4459,"navigation":104,"path":4460,"seo":4461,"stem":4462,"system":2085,"__hash__":4463},"factions/factions/bolt-action-soviet-union.md","How to Paint Soviet Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":4175,"toc":4447},[4176,4183,4185,4192,4196,4198,4226,4238,4255,4266,4268,4337,4341,4344,4377,4381,4399,4401,4441],[11,4177,4178,4179,4182],{},"Soviets are the fastest full army in Bolt Action to get onto a table, because the uniform is one colour worn by everybody and the kit is simple. There is no camouflage to pattern, no regimental variation to research and no bright facing colours - a rifle section is khaki-olive cloth, brown leather and a rifle. That makes them ideal for ",[774,4180,4181],{"href":1025},"batch painting"," large squads, and it means the small decisions - how warm the khaki runs, where the one red accent goes - carry all the character.",[15,4184,18],{"id":17},[11,4186,4187,4188,4191],{},"The gymnastyorka tunic and trousers sit in a khaki-olive band: greener than British battledress, browner and duller than American olive drab. Against that, Soviet field kit is warm brown ",[2334,4189,4190],{},"leather"," where the Germans use blackened straps, and that warmth is the tell - the moment a Soviet's belt and pouches go dark, the figure starts reading as German. Helmets and vehicles go a distinctly greener 4BO protective green, and the only saturated colour anywhere is a cap star or a collar tab.",[15,4193,4195],{"id":4194},"the-khaki-olive-uniform","The khaki-olive uniform",[11,4197,1778],{},[545,4199,4200,4206,4213,4218],{},[37,4201,1783,4202,4205],{},[40,4203,4204],{},"Russian Uniform WWII",", two thin coats. This is the reference tone for Red Army cloth and worth owning even if you paint nothing else Soviet.",[37,4207,1790,4208,1793,4210,4212],{},[40,4209,559],{},[40,4211,2457],{}," across the whole garment if you want it to stay green rather than warming up.",[37,4214,567,4215,4217],{},[40,4216,4204],{}," back over the raised cloth: the chest of the tunic, the tops of the shoulders, the front of the thighs.",[37,4219,1804,4220,1807,4222,2129,4224,1814],{},[40,4221,4204],{},[40,4223,2916],{},[40,4225,605],{},[11,4227,4228,4229,4231,4232,4234,4235,4237],{},"For sun-bleached summer 1943 onwards, add ",[40,4230,1810],{}," to the base instead of ",[40,4233,2916],{}," - it takes the tone browner and drier. For a darker, wetter Leningrad look, deepen the base with a little ",[40,4236,2551],{}," and stop the highlight one step early.",[11,4239,1824,4240,1903,4242,317,4244,1906,4246,1836,4248,1387,4251,1390,4253,578],{},[40,4241,2492],{},[40,4243,559],{},[40,4245,2492],{},[40,4247,590],{},[40,4249,4250],{},"Olive Drab",[40,4252,2457],{},[40,4254,1839],{},[11,4256,1851,4257,1854,4259,1858,4261,3696,4263,4265],{},[40,4258,301],{},[40,4260,2523],{},[40,4262,3967],{},[40,4264,2916],{},". This is the army where the one-coat route genuinely holds up, because there is no pattern for it to flatten.",[15,4267,3416],{"id":3415},[34,4269,4270,4282,4290,4304,4323],{},[37,4271,4272,4273,1903,4275,1906,4277,4279,4280,578],{},"Belt, Y-straps, pouches and boot uppers: ",[40,4274,2349],{},[40,4276,559],{},[40,4278,1927],{},". Keep it warm and mid-toned. Officers' map cases and holsters can go darker with ",[40,4281,1924],{},[37,4283,4284,4285,1918,4287,4289],{},"Boots proper (sapogi): ",[40,4286,1917],{},[40,4288,1921],{},", or brown leather for reservists and militia.",[37,4291,4292,4293,1387,4296,2311,4298,4300,4301,4303],{},"SSh-40 helmet: ",[40,4294,4295],{},"Uniform Green",[40,4297,356],{},[40,4299,4295],{}," plus a touch of ",[40,4302,1980],{},". This is 4BO protective green, the same colour a T-34 should be, and it deliberately reads greener than the tunic.",[37,4305,4306,4307,1387,4309,1845,4311,4313,4314,1387,4316,4318,4319,442,4321,578],{},"Mosin-Nagant stocks: ",[40,4308,1934],{},[40,4310,559],{},[40,4312,1927],{},". Metalwork ",[40,4315,1886],{},[40,4317,356],{},"; Citadel ",[40,4320,1144],{},[40,4322,410],{},[37,4324,1950,4325,376,4327,376,4329,1959,4331,4333,4334,4336],{},[40,4326,1953],{},[40,4328,559],{},[40,4330,1958],{},[40,4332,1962],{},". Weathering here can be heavier than on other nations - a thin ",[40,4335,559],{}," glaze over the whole face reads as a long campaign.",[15,4338,4340],{"id":4339},"winter-and-the-telogreika","Winter and the telogreika",[11,4342,4343],{},"The quilted telogreika jacket is browner than the summer tunic, and painting it a different shade is what makes a winter squad look like a change of season rather than a change of paint.",[545,4345,4346,4355,4368],{},[37,4347,549,4348,666,4350,1906,4352,4354],{},[40,4349,1810],{},[40,4351,559],{},[40,4353,608],{}," along the quilting seams. Catching every seam ridge is what sells the quilting - it is a drybrush job, not a layering one.",[37,4356,4357,4358,4361,4362,4364,4365,4367],{},"Over-whites go on top: ",[40,4359,4360],{},"White Grey"," basecoat, shaded with thinned ",[40,4363,559],{}," in the folds, highlighted ",[40,4366,2331],{},". Leave khaki showing at cuffs, collar and hem so the figure does not turn into a paper cut-out.",[37,4369,4370,4371,1387,4373,3536,4375,578],{},"Ushanka fur flaps: ",[40,4372,1927],{},[40,4374,559],{},[40,4376,608],{},[15,4378,4380],{"id":4379},"the-red-accent","The red accent",[11,4382,4383,4384,4386,4387,4389,4390,4392,4393,4395,4396,4398],{},"One small red note per figure and no more. Cap stars, collar tabs and the odd Guards badge in ",[40,4385,3104],{},", highlighted with a hint of ",[40,4388,3811],{}," at the top edge. On banners and vehicle slogans use ",[40,4391,3811],{}," as the base with a ",[40,4394,3104],{}," shade, and freehand the lettering in ",[40,4397,2331],{}," rather than pure white.",[15,4400,66],{"id":65},[34,4402,4403,4409,4415,4425,4435],{},[37,4404,4405,4408],{},[40,4406,4407],{},"Brown leather, not black."," It is the single fastest way to tell a Soviet from a German at table distance.",[37,4410,4411,4414],{},[40,4412,4413],{},"Keep the helmet greener than the tunic."," Two related but distinct greens is correct and stops the figure going monotone.",[37,4416,4417,4420,4421,4424],{},[40,4418,4419],{},"One red thing."," A star on the cap is enough. Red collar tabs, red stars ",[2334,4422,4423],{},"and"," a red banner on the same model is a costume, not a uniform.",[37,4426,4427,2645,4430,302,4432,4434],{},[40,4428,4429],{},"Vary the khaki, not the recipe.",[40,4431,1810],{},[40,4433,2916],{}," in the base on different models covers wildly inconsistent Soviet dye lots for free.",[37,4436,4437,4440],{},[40,4438,4439],{},"Do not clean them up."," Mud to the knee, dust on the pack, a grubby face. Soviets are the one army where over-weathering is hard to achieve.",[11,4442,2064,4443,4446],{},[774,4444,822],{"href":4445},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=4B5320"," to swap brands or push the base browner for late war.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":4448},[4449,4450,4451,4452,4453,4454],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":4194,"depth":89,"text":4195},{"id":3415,"depth":89,"text":3416},{"id":4339,"depth":89,"text":4340},{"id":4379,"depth":89,"text":4380},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action Soviets - khaki-olive gymnastyorka tunics, warm brown leather kit, 4BO green helmets, the quilted telogreika winter option and red star accents.","Bolt Action Soviet Union","#4B5320","Khaki-olive cloth, brown leather and one small red star",{},"/factions/bolt-action-soviet-union",{"title":4173,"description":4455},"factions/bolt-action-soviet-union","i0-9btM-0i9lderHVjwE95AAPjjBE0Ne5s-R-sH7FPU",{"id":4465,"title":4466,"body":4467,"date":2076,"description":4766,"extension":98,"faction":4767,"heroImage":510,"hex":4768,"intro":4769,"lastUpdated":2076,"meta":4770,"navigation":104,"path":4771,"seo":4772,"stem":4773,"system":2085,"__hash__":4774},"factions/factions/bolt-action-united-states.md","How to Paint American Infantry (Bolt Action)",{"type":8,"value":4468,"toc":4759},[4469,4472,4474,4477,4481,4484,4513,4525,4544,4558,4562,4628,4632,4659,4688,4708,4710,4753],[11,4470,4471],{},"The thing that catches people out about Americans is that olive drab is two colours, not one. The wool shirt, the trousers and the M1941 jacket are shade No. 3, a light tan-khaki with a mustard cast. The M1943 field jacket that replaces it from late 1943 is shade No. 7, a much darker green drab. A 1944 GI is usually wearing both at once, and painting them as a single tone is what makes an American squad look flat and toy-like. Get the two layers apart and the rest of the figure - khaki webbing, brown boots, an olive helmet - is a very short shopping list.",[15,4473,18],{"id":17},[11,4475,4476],{},"A dark green outer layer over lighter khaki wool, cotton webbing sitting between the two in value, russet-brown leather boots and a helmet a shade darker than the jacket. There is no blackened leather anywhere on an American, which is the fastest way to tell one from a German at table distance. And, unusually for a WW2 army, almost no camouflage: outside the Marines, all the visual interest comes from stacking drabs rather than from pattern.",[15,4478,4480],{"id":4479},"the-olive-drab-uniform","The olive drab uniform",[11,4482,4483],{},"Undercoat black or dark grey. Shade No. 7 is dark enough that a white primer fights you.",[545,4485,4486,4492,4499,4504],{},[37,4487,1783,4488,4491],{},[40,4489,4490],{},"US Olive Drab",", two thin coats. This is shade No. 7 - the M1943 jacket, the trousers that go with it and the helmet - and it is the one bottle to own if you own only one.",[37,4493,1790,4494,1793,4496,4498],{},[40,4495,559],{},[40,4497,2457],{}," across the whole garment if you want the green to survive the wash.",[37,4500,567,4501,4503],{},[40,4502,4490],{}," back over the raised cloth: the chest, the tops of the shoulders, the front of the thighs.",[37,4505,1804,4506,2468,4508,3026,4510,4512],{},[40,4507,4490],{},[40,4509,2916],{},[40,4511,605],{}," on shoulders, elbows and the top of the pack.",[11,4514,4515,4516,4518,4519,4521,4522,4524],{},"For the wool shirt, trousers and M1941 jacket - shade No. 3, and most of what an early or mid-war figure is wearing - run the same four steps with ",[40,4517,1810],{}," as the base, ",[40,4520,608],{}," in the highlight mix and ",[40,4523,611],{}," as the last catch. Jacket dark, trousers light, on the same model, is the whole trick.",[11,4526,1824,4527,1840,4529,4532,4533,345,4535,4537,4538,1387,4540,1390,4542,578],{},[40,4528,2492],{},[40,4530,4531],{},"Castellan Green"," in the base, ",[40,4534,559],{},[40,4536,3349],{}," to highlight. Army Painter Fanatic: ",[40,4539,3355],{},[40,4541,2457],{},[40,4543,1839],{},[11,4545,4546,4547,3968,4549,4551,4552,4554,4555,4557],{},"Speed route: undercoat grey, lay one coat of Army Painter Speedpaint ",[40,4548,3368],{},[40,4550,2523],{}," contrast, then a single edge catch of ",[40,4553,2916],{},". Ten men in an evening, and picking the wool layer back in ",[40,4556,1810],{}," afterwards costs about a minute a model.",[15,4559,4561],{"id":4560},"webbing-boots-and-metal","Webbing, boots and metal",[34,4563,4564,4581,4591,4602,4618],{},[37,4565,4566,4567,1903,4569,1906,4571,4573,4574,4576,4577,1387,4579,578],{},"M1928 haversack, cartridge belt, musette bag and canvas leggings: ",[40,4568,1810],{},[40,4570,559],{},[40,4572,611],{},". This is cotton webbing, not leather, and it should read ",[2334,4575,2705],{}," than the jacket. Late-war kit in the darker shade goes ",[40,4578,2916],{},[40,4580,2457],{},[37,4582,4583,4584,1387,4586,1845,4588,4590],{},"Service shoes and M1943 double-buckle boots: ",[40,4585,2224],{},[40,4587,559],{},[40,4589,1927],{},". Russet brown, never black.",[37,4592,4593,4594,1387,4596,4598,4599,4601],{},"M1 helmet: ",[40,4595,4490],{},[40,4597,356],{},", highlighted on the rim and crown only. Netting is a light drybrush of ",[40,4600,1810],{}," over the finished dome, not a painted mesh.",[37,4603,4604,4605,1918,4607,4609,4610,1387,4612,1943,4614,442,4616,578],{},"Garand and Thompson stocks: ",[40,4606,1934],{},[40,4608,1927],{},"; metalwork ",[40,4611,1886],{},[40,4613,356],{},[40,4615,1144],{},[40,4617,410],{},[37,4619,1950,4620,376,4622,376,4624,2626,4626,2629],{},[40,4621,1953],{},[40,4623,559],{},[40,4625,1958],{},[40,4627,1962],{},[15,4629,4631],{"id":4630},"airborne-marines-and-vehicles","Airborne, Marines and vehicles",[11,4633,4634,4637,4638,666,4640,4642,4643,4645,4646,4648,4649,4651,4652,376,4654,612,4656,4658],{},[40,4635,4636],{},"Airborne, the M42 jump suit."," The 1943-44 jump suit is the light drab, so base the whole figure ",[40,4639,1810],{},[40,4641,559],{}," and highlight ",[40,4644,608],{},", with the reinforcement panels at knee and elbow left a step darker. Jump boots are ",[40,4647,2224],{}," taken up to ",[40,4650,1927],{}," on the toecap - these were the most polished boots in the army and it is worth showing. The shoulder flag is three tiny strokes: ",[40,4653,2331],{},[40,4655,3104],{},[40,4657,2308],{},". From late 1944 the Airborne are in M1943 jackets, so switch to the dark recipe and keep the boots.",[11,4660,4661,4664,4665,1903,4667,1906,4669,2804,4671,4673,4674,4676,4677,612,4679,4681,4682,4684,4685,4687],{},[40,4662,4663],{},"USMC, sage green and frog-skin."," Herringbone twill utilities are a sage green, greyer than Army drab: ",[40,4666,3334],{},[40,4668,2457],{},[40,4670,3334],{},[40,4672,611],{},". Frog-skin helmet covers and ponchos are base ",[40,4675,1810],{}," with small rounded blotches of ",[40,4678,2551],{},[40,4680,1924],{}," and a scatter of ",[40,4683,2916],{}," spots, the whole panel then washed ",[40,4686,559],{}," so it settles into one garment.",[11,4689,4690,4692,4693,4695,4696,4698,4699,4701,4702,4704,4705,4707],{},[40,4691,1989],{}," From a jeep to a Pershing, everything wears the same single colour, which makes this the cheapest motor pool in the game: ",[40,4694,4490],{}," overall, ",[40,4697,559],{}," run into panel lines and around fittings, a drybrush of ",[40,4700,2916],{}," on edges, then dust the running gear with ",[40,4703,605],{},". Recognition stars go on in ",[40,4706,2331],{},"; pure white reads as a decal.",[15,4709,66],{"id":65},[34,4711,4712,4718,4724,4730,4739],{},[37,4713,4714,4717],{},[40,4715,4716],{},"Two drabs, not one."," Dark jacket over light trousers is the 1944 GI. One flat olive over the whole model is the commonest American mistake and the easiest to fix.",[37,4719,4720,4723],{},[40,4721,4722],{},"Nothing on a GI is black."," Russet boots, khaki webbing, brown slings. Blackened leather belongs to the other side of the table.",[37,4725,4726,4729],{},[40,4727,4728],{},"Webbing sits between the layers."," Lighter than the jacket, close to the wool. If it vanishes into either, the torso loses its shape.",[37,4731,4732,4735,4736,4738],{},[40,4733,4734],{},"One bottle does the armour."," A pot of ",[40,4737,4490],{}," covers every American vehicle you will ever buy, which is worth remembering when you are costing an army.",[37,4740,4741,4744,4745,2054,4747,4749,4750,4752],{},[40,4742,4743],{},"Dust, do not mud."," A light ",[774,4746,2053],{"href":1025},[40,4748,605],{}," on boots and leggings ties the figure to its ",[774,4751,2060],{"href":776},"; heavy mud belongs on the Eastern Front.",[11,4754,2064,4755,4758],{},[774,4756,822],{"href":4757},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=6B7539"," to swap brands or lighten the base towards the early-war wool.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":4760},[4761,4762,4763,4764,4765],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":4479,"depth":89,"text":4480},{"id":4560,"depth":89,"text":4561},{"id":4630,"depth":89,"text":4631},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Bolt Action Americans - the two olive drabs of a 1944 GI, khaki cotton webbing, russet boots, the M42 airborne jump suit and USMC sage green with frog-skin camouflage.","Bolt Action United States","#6B7539","Two drabs, khaki webbing and not a scrap of black",{},"/factions/bolt-action-united-states",{"title":4466,"description":4766},"factions/bolt-action-united-states","3XGOH5H5XdoHzg0qnB8wx6mxdR6VXX7pvy8uQfCv8IE",{"id":4776,"title":4777,"body":4778,"date":507,"description":4992,"extension":98,"faction":4993,"heroImage":510,"hex":4994,"intro":4995,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":4996,"navigation":104,"path":4997,"seo":4998,"stem":4999,"system":108,"__hash__":5000},"factions/factions/chaos-daemons.md","How to Paint Chaos Daemons",{"type":8,"value":4779,"toc":4985},[4780,4783,4786,4790,4809,4828,4832,4852,4872,4876,4903,4920,4924,4952,4954],[11,4781,4782],{},"Daemons are the best-value painting project in the game because the models are almost entirely skin. There is no armour to mask off and very little wargear, which means a single well-chosen recipe covers ninety per cent of the surface. Contrast and shade paints do enormous work here, and a horde of Bloodletters or Plaguebearers can go from primer to finished faster than an equivalent number of Space Marines.",[11,4784,4785],{},"The catch is that \"daemon skin\" is four completely different problems depending on which god you have picked.",[15,4787,4789],{"id":4788},"khornate-daemons","Khornate daemons",[11,4791,4792,4793,345,4795,4798,4799,666,4801,317,4803,4805,4806,4808],{},"Bloodletters want red skin that glows rather than sits flat. Undercoat white or ",[40,4794,301],{},[40,4796,4797],{},"Blood Angels Red"," contrast for the fast route. For the layered version, base ",[40,4800,375],{},[40,4802,1050],{},[40,4804,385],{}," on the raised muscle and highlight ",[40,4807,1370],{}," on the ridges of the ribs, brow and knuckles.",[11,4810,4811,4812,442,4814,4816,4817,1387,4819,345,4821,4824,4825,4827],{},"Horns and hooves go ",[40,4813,712],{},[40,4815,988],{},". Hellblades are the accent: ",[40,4818,1563],{},[40,4820,559],{},[40,4822,4823],{},"Brass Scorpion"," on the edges, with ",[40,4826,1588],{}," run into the fuller for a wet, gore-slicked finish.",[15,4829,4831],{"id":4830},"nurgle-daemons","Nurgle daemons",[11,4833,4834,4835,1325,4838,4840,4841,666,4844,317,4847,4642,4849,578],{},"Plaguebearers are the most forgiving daemons of all. ",[40,4836,4837],{},"Plaguebearer Flesh",[40,4839,301],{}," does almost the whole model, or base ",[40,4842,4843],{},"Death Guard Green",[40,4845,4846],{},"Athonian Camoshade",[40,4848,3349],{},[40,4850,4851],{},"Nurgling Green",[11,4853,4854,4855,4857,4858,4861,4862,4865,4866,1535,4869,4871],{},"Then dirty it: ",[40,4856,1151],{}," in the folds and around wounds, ",[40,4859,4860],{},"Nurgles Rot"," on open sores and drips, ",[40,4863,4864],{},"Berserker Bloodshade"," where the flesh has split. Horns and blades in ",[40,4867,4868],{},"Skavenblight Dinge",[40,4870,1155],{}," stippled on top. Nothing about a Nurgle daemon should be clean, which makes it very hard to get wrong.",[15,4873,4875],{"id":4874},"tzeentchian-daemons","Tzeentchian daemons",[11,4877,4878,4879,692,4882,4885,4886,1390,4889,4892,4893,692,4895,4885,4897,1390,4900,578],{},"Horrors are the loudest scheme on the list. Pink Horrors: ",[40,4880,4881],{},"Screamer Pink",[40,4883,4884],{},"Druchii Violet",", layered ",[40,4887,4888],{},"Pink Horror",[40,4890,4891],{},"Fulgrim Pink",". Blue Horrors: ",[40,4894,379],{},[40,4896,669],{},[40,4898,4899],{},"Ahriman Blue",[40,4901,4902],{},"Blue Horror",[11,4904,4905,4906,442,4908,442,4910,4912,4913,4915,4916,4919],{},"Warpflame is the signature. Build it from the base of the flame outward - ",[40,4907,388],{},[40,4909,676],{},[40,4911,341],{},", with a final ",[40,4914,348],{}," at the tip - and glaze a little ",[40,4917,4918],{},"Guilliman Blue"," onto the hand holding it so the light appears to spill.",[15,4921,4923],{"id":4922},"slaaneshi-daemons","Slaaneshi daemons",[11,4925,4926,4927,666,4930,317,4932,4934,4935,4937,4938,442,4941,442,4944,4947,4948,4951],{},"Daemonettes are pale and cold, not pink. Base ",[40,4928,4929],{},"Slaanesh Grey",[40,4931,4884],{},[40,4933,4929],{}," back on and highlight ",[40,4936,584],{},". Hair, claws and crab-limbs in ",[40,4939,4940],{},"Naggaroth Night",[40,4942,4943],{},"Xereus Purple",[40,4945,4946],{},"Genestealer Purple",", with the very tips of the claws left almost ",[40,4949,4950],{},"Dechala Lilac",". A gloss coat on the chitin against the matt skin is what makes the model read as unnatural.",[15,4953,66],{"id":65},[34,4955,4956,4962,4968,4979],{},[37,4957,4958,4961],{},[40,4959,4960],{},"Undercoat light for all four."," Every daemon palette is saturated, and every one of them dies over black.",[37,4963,4964,4967],{},[40,4965,4966],{},"Contrast paints are not a compromise here."," Skin over bare sculpted muscle is exactly what they were designed for.",[37,4969,4970,4973,4974,302,4976,4978],{},[40,4971,4972],{},"Keep the eyes bright."," One dot of ",[40,4975,456],{},[40,4977,324],{}," on an otherwise dark face gives a daemon its malice.",[37,4980,4981,4984],{},[40,4982,4983],{},"Do not mix the palettes on one model."," Each god's scheme relies on being unrelieved. A Khorne red with Tzeentch blue accents reads as neither.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":4986},[4987,4988,4989,4990,4991],{"id":4788,"depth":89,"text":4789},{"id":4830,"depth":89,"text":4831},{"id":4874,"depth":89,"text":4875},{"id":4922,"depth":89,"text":4923},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Chaos Daemons - four completely different colour schemes for Khorne, Nurgle, Tzeentch and Slaanesh, plus glowing weapons, wet blood and unnatural skin.","Chaos Daemons","#6f1417","Four gods, four palettes, and skin that should never look human",{},"/factions/chaos-daemons",{"title":4777,"description":4992},"factions/chaos-daemons","aJWRPH0xDCafmeOTxv6tPuv-olCHPhI28ITvA6g5BEQ",{"id":5002,"title":5003,"body":5004,"date":507,"description":5207,"extension":98,"faction":5208,"heroImage":510,"hex":5209,"intro":5210,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":5211,"navigation":104,"path":5212,"seo":5213,"stem":5214,"system":108,"__hash__":5215},"factions/factions/chaos-knights.md","How to Paint Chaos Knights",{"type":8,"value":5005,"toc":5199},[5006,5009,5012,5014,5017,5021,5038,5052,5056,5059,5088,5092,5106,5135,5139,5171,5173],[11,5007,5008],{},"A Chaos Knight is a small number of very large flat panels, which changes everything about how you approach it. There is no rank of ten identical bodies to grind through, but there is nowhere to hide a rushed basecoat either. The good news is that the entire aesthetic is decay, so the techniques that ruin a clean army - stippling, sponging, uneven pigment - are exactly the ones you want.",[11,5010,5011],{},"Painted well, one Knight is an afternoon and a half. Painted badly, it is the biggest flat surface in your collection advertising the fact.",[15,5013,18],{"id":17},[11,5015,5016],{},"Ancient armour that has spent millennia in the warp: dark iron plate, tarnished brass trim gone green at the edges, deep rust in every crevice, and one point of daemonic light in the eye slit or the reactor. It should look heavy and neglected, not battle-damaged in a tidy way.",[15,5018,5020],{"id":5019},"the-armour-plates","The armour plates",[11,5022,5023,5024,5027,5028,5030,5031,5033,5034,5037],{},"Airbrush or brush ",[40,5025,5026],{},"Iron Warriors"," over a black undercoat, or ",[40,5029,1144],{}," if you want a lighter iron. Shade the whole plate with ",[40,5032,356],{},", then bring the centre of each panel back up with a broad, loose drybrush of ",[40,5035,5036],{},"Ironbreaker"," so the middle is lighter than the borders - that alone stops a large panel looking like a slab.",[11,5039,5040,5041,302,5043,666,5045,4642,5047,302,5049,5051],{},"For a painted rather than bare-metal household, base the panels ",[40,5042,375],{},[40,5044,312],{},[40,5046,559],{},[40,5048,385],{},[40,5050,320],{}," on the raised edges. Keep the highlight to a narrow band; on a panel this size a wide highlight looks like a stripe.",[15,5053,5055],{"id":5054},"rust-and-corrosion","Rust and corrosion",[11,5057,5058],{},"This is the step that does the work.",[545,5060,5061,5067,5073,5082],{},[37,5062,5063,5064,5066],{},"Stipple ",[40,5065,1151],{}," along panel joins, around rivets and down from anywhere water would run.",[37,5068,5069,5070,5072],{},"While it is still tacky, stipple ",[40,5071,1155],{}," into the same areas, concentrated at the top and fading downwards.",[37,5074,5075,5076,5078,5079,5081],{},"Sponge fine chips of ",[40,5077,712],{}," first, then a smaller number of ",[40,5080,1144],{}," chips inside them - a bare-metal chip with no brown edge reads as a mistake.",[37,5083,5084,5085,5087],{},"Streak thinned ",[40,5086,988],{}," downward from rivets with a damp brush.",[15,5089,5091],{"id":5090},"brass-trim-and-daemonic-glow","Brass, trim and daemonic glow",[11,5093,5094,5095,1387,5097,345,5099,5101,5102,5105],{},"Trim in ",[40,5096,1563],{},[40,5098,559],{},[40,5100,4823],{}," on the edges. A light touch of ",[40,5103,5104],{},"Nihilakh Oxide"," in the recesses of the brass gives the green verdigris that says \"abandoned\", and it costs one minute per Knight.",[11,5107,5108,5109,5111,5112,376,5114,376,5117,5120,5121,5123,5124,5126,5127,5129,5130,5132,5133,578],{},"The eye slit and any exposed reactor are the only bright thing on the model. Paint the recess ",[40,5110,371],{},", then ring it up through ",[40,5113,375],{},[40,5115,5116],{},"Wazdakka Red",[40,5118,5119],{},"Troll Slayer Orange"," and a centre of ",[40,5122,456],{},". Glaze a little ",[40,5125,5116],{}," onto the surrounding metal so the light spills. Green works equally well - ",[40,5128,312],{}," through ",[40,5131,320],{}," to ",[40,5134,324],{},[15,5136,5138],{"id":5137},"dread-household-variations","Dread household variations",[34,5140,5141,5147,5153,5159,5165],{},[37,5142,5143,5146],{},[40,5144,5145],{},"Herpetrax"," - bone and dark green plate, heavily rusted.",[37,5148,5149,5152],{},[40,5150,5151],{},"Khymere"," - deep blue-black armour with silver trim, colder and cleaner than most.",[37,5154,5155,5158],{},[40,5156,5157],{},"Lucaris"," - white and bone, which makes the rust and blood far more visible.",[37,5160,5161,5164],{},[40,5162,5163],{},"Vextrix"," - purple and gold for a Slaaneshi household.",[37,5166,5167,5168,5170],{},"A Khorne-pledged Knight in ",[40,5169,375],{}," with brass trim is the fastest of the lot.",[15,5172,66],{"id":65},[34,5174,5175,5181,5187,5193],{},[37,5176,5177,5180],{},[40,5178,5179],{},"Undercoat black and work up."," Everything here builds towards light, and a black start makes the recesses free.",[37,5182,5183,5186],{},[40,5184,5185],{},"Rust is directional."," Water runs down. Rust that appears on the underside of an overhang looks wrong even if you cannot say why.",[37,5188,5189,5192],{},[40,5190,5191],{},"Do not chip everywhere."," Chips belong on leading edges, feet and weapon housings.",[37,5194,5195,5198],{},[40,5196,5197],{},"Assemble in subassemblies."," The torso interior and hip joints are unreachable once a Knight is glued together.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":5200},[5201,5202,5203,5204,5205,5206],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":5019,"depth":89,"text":5020},{"id":5054,"depth":89,"text":5055},{"id":5090,"depth":89,"text":5091},{"id":5137,"depth":89,"text":5138},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Chaos Knights - large armour panels, heavy rust and corrosion, tarnished brass, daemonic eye glow, and the dread household variations from Herpetrax to Lucaris.","Chaos Knights","#33302c","Big panels, deep rust, tarnished brass and daemonic glow",{},"/factions/chaos-knights",{"title":5003,"description":5207},"factions/chaos-knights","rGS-zkhFHfs1X4riNUd-IbBzh7BJpUEXexKGjjoEFzo",{"id":5217,"title":5218,"body":5219,"date":507,"description":5434,"extension":98,"faction":5435,"heroImage":510,"hex":5436,"intro":5437,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":5438,"navigation":104,"path":5439,"seo":5440,"stem":5441,"system":108,"__hash__":5442},"factions/factions/chaos-space-marines.md","How to Paint Chaos Space Marines",{"type":8,"value":5220,"toc":5427},[5221,5224,5226,5229,5233,5249,5270,5281,5285,5317,5328,5332,5399,5401],[11,5222,5223],{},"Chaos Space Marines sit in a comfortable middle ground: the models are as straightforward as loyalist marines, but the aesthetic rewards mess. Armour that has been worn for ten thousand years is meant to be scratched, tarnished and mismatched, so weathering covers the same sins that would show on a clean chapter. Most legion schemes are one armour colour, one metal and one trim.",[15,5225,18],{"id":17},[11,5227,5228],{},"Heavy, over-decorated power armour with more trim than a loyalist marine, spikes and chains everywhere, and a metal that has gone dull. The trim is the character of the model - gold, brass or bronze catching the light against a dark plate.",[15,5230,5232],{"id":5231},"black-legion-armour","Black Legion armour",[11,5234,5235,5236,5238,5239,5241,5242,5244,5245,5248],{},"The default legion is also the fastest. Undercoat black, basecoat ",[40,5237,371],{},", then edge-highlight sparingly with ",[40,5240,1015],{}," and a final catch of ",[40,5243,1019],{}," on corners. Over a light undercoat, ",[40,5246,5247],{},"Black Legion"," contrast does the same job in one coat with softer transitions.",[11,5250,5251,5252,666,5254,317,5256,5259,5260,5262,5263,1387,5265,1535,5267,5269],{},"Trim is where the time goes. Base ",[40,5253,691],{},[40,5255,559],{},[40,5257,5258],{},"Gehenna's Gold"," and pick out the very edges with ",[40,5261,1414],{},". For a more corroded look, swap to ",[40,5264,1563],{},[40,5266,559],{},[40,5268,5104],{}," stippled into the recesses.",[11,5271,5272,5273,376,5275,5277,5278,5280],{},"Bare metal on weapons and joints goes ",[40,5274,1144],{},[40,5276,356],{},", then a light ",[40,5279,5036],{}," drybrush. Keep it dull - a mirror-bright bolter looks freshly issued, which is the opposite of the point.",[15,5282,5284],{"id":5283},"weathering-and-corruption","Weathering and corruption",[34,5286,5287,5292,5301,5307],{},[37,5288,5063,5289,5291],{},[40,5290,1151],{}," around vents, joints and the bottoms of greaves.",[37,5293,5294,5295,5297,5298,5300],{},"Add ",[40,5296,1155],{}," on top, then a few ",[40,5299,1144],{}," chips with a torn sponge.",[37,5302,5303,5304,5306],{},"Run thinned ",[40,5305,712],{}," into the deepest recesses of the trim for grime.",[37,5308,5309,5310,1387,5312,1390,5314,5316],{},"Where the model has mutated flesh, ",[40,5311,1041],{},[40,5313,1050],{},[40,5315,1063],{}," keeps it looking raw against the armour.",[11,5318,5319,5320,442,5322,5324,5325,5327],{},"Horns and claws in ",[40,5321,712],{},[40,5323,577],{}," finish most mutations, and a wash of ",[40,5326,1046],{}," over bone details ties them to the flesh.",[15,5329,5331],{"id":5330},"legion-colour-schemes","Legion colour schemes",[34,5333,5334,5349,5365,5378,5388],{},[37,5335,5336,438,5338,1387,5340,1995,5342,1114,5344,612,5346,5348],{},[40,5337,5026],{},[40,5339,1144],{},[40,5341,356],{},[40,5343,5036],{},[40,5345,453],{},[40,5347,371],{}," hazard stripes. Genuinely the quickest army here, because the armour is one metal and a wash.",[37,5350,5351,438,5354,442,5356,5359,5360,612,5362,5364],{},[40,5352,5353],{},"Night Lords",[40,5355,379],{},[40,5357,5358],{},"Night Lords Blue",", with lightning bolts painted in ",[40,5361,341],{},[40,5363,348],{}," from the trailing edge upwards.",[37,5366,5367,438,5370,1387,5372,4885,5374,5377],{},[40,5368,5369],{},"Word Bearers",[40,5371,375],{},[40,5373,559],{},[40,5375,5376],{},"Word Bearers Red",", with dense gold script on every plate. Slow, but stunning.",[37,5379,5380,438,5383,1535,5385,5387],{},[40,5381,5382],{},"Alpha Legion",[40,5384,312],{},[40,5386,665],{}," highlights and a green-blue iridescent tint on the plates.",[37,5389,5390,438,5393,5395,5396,5398],{},[40,5391,5392],{},"Red Corsairs",[40,5394,441],{}," plate with ",[40,5397,371],{}," shoulders, a mismatched raider look that lets you use up leftover legion parts.",[15,5400,66],{"id":65},[34,5402,5403,5409,5415,5421],{},[37,5404,5405,5408],{},[40,5406,5407],{},"Do not over-highlight black."," Two thin edge catches beat a heavy grey line every time.",[37,5410,5411,5414],{},[40,5412,5413],{},"Trim first, then tidy."," Paint the gold over the armour and cut back in with the armour colour rather than trying to keep a perfect edge.",[37,5416,5417,5420],{},[40,5418,5419],{},"Vary the squad."," Mismatched pauldrons and different degrees of rust are lore-correct and make ten identical bodies look like a warband.",[37,5422,5423,5426],{},[40,5424,5425],{},"Keep the metals dull."," Ten thousand years in the warp does not polish anything.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":5428},[5429,5430,5431,5432,5433],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":5231,"depth":89,"text":5232},{"id":5283,"depth":89,"text":5284},{"id":5330,"depth":89,"text":5331},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Chaos Space Marines - the Black Legion scheme with tarnished gold trim, weathered and mutated armour, and recipes for the Iron Warriors, Night Lords and Word Bearers.","Chaos Space Marines","#232028","Ten-thousand-year-old armour, tarnished trim and legion colours",{},"/factions/chaos-space-marines",{"title":5218,"description":5434},"factions/chaos-space-marines","M86cxG2Dn2NMn1hQmA7-8CaLmssVASVmQcHkkRw3lHw",{"id":5444,"title":5445,"body":5446,"date":507,"description":5683,"extension":98,"faction":5684,"heroImage":510,"hex":5685,"intro":5686,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":5687,"navigation":104,"path":5688,"seo":5689,"stem":5690,"system":1667,"__hash__":5691},"factions/factions/cities-of-sigmar.md","How to Paint Cities of Sigmar",{"type":8,"value":5447,"toc":5676},[5448,5451,5453,5456,5460,5489,5506,5539,5543,5560,5564,5567,5636,5638,5668],[11,5449,5450],{},"Cities of Sigmar are the ordinary people of the Mortal Realms: massed Steelhelms and Fusiliers in uniform, backed by wizards, war machines and the odd allied duardin or aelf. They are a rank-and-file army, and the thing that makes them look good is not any single miniature but consistency across thirty of them. Decide the uniform first, then paint it the same way every time.",[15,5452,18],{"id":17},[11,5454,5455],{},"Deep blue coats and tabards over steel plate, warm leather, off-white shirts and a single hot accent colour - usually red - carried on plumes, sashes and banners. Gold is for officers and command, not for the rank and file. The overall impression should be a drilled regiment, not a warband.",[15,5457,5459],{"id":5458},"painting-the-uniform","Painting the uniform",[545,5461,5462,5468,5476,5482],{},[37,5463,5464,5465,578],{},"Undercoat black, then basecoat the coats and tabards ",[40,5466,5467],{},"Macragge Blue",[37,5469,5470,5471,1047,5473,5475],{},"Shade the folds with ",[40,5472,356],{},[40,5474,669],{}," if you want the blue to stay cold and rich.",[37,5477,5478,5479,578],{},"Layer the raised cloth with ",[40,5480,5481],{},"Altdorf Guard Blue",[37,5483,5484,5485,5488],{},"Edge the sharpest folds with ",[40,5486,5487],{},"Calgar Blue",", sparingly - too much and the cloth looks dusty.",[11,5490,5491,5492,1325,5495,5497,5498,5501,5502,5505],{},"A ",[40,5493,5494],{},"Talassar Blue",[40,5496,305],{}," collapses steps one to three into one pass and is the sensible choice for a unit of twenty. Army Painter's ",[40,5499,5500],{},"Deep Blue"," under ",[40,5503,5504],{},"Blue Tone"," gets you to the same place.",[11,5507,5508,5509,376,5511,5513,5514,5516,5517,442,5519,5521,5522,376,5524,5526,5527,5529,5530,376,5532,612,5534,1114,5536,5538],{},"Armour is ",[40,5510,1144],{},[40,5512,356],{},", and a light edge of ",[40,5515,410],{},". Leather goes ",[40,5518,712],{},[40,5520,988],{},"; shirts and breeches take ",[40,5523,552],{},[40,5525,559],{}," and a highlight of ",[40,5528,570],{},". Skin is ",[40,5531,1041],{},[40,5533,1046],{},[40,5535,1056],{},[40,5537,1063],{}," on the brows for the pale-skinned.",[15,5540,5542],{"id":5541},"the-accent-that-does-the-work","The accent that does the work",[11,5544,5545,5546,353,5548,357,5550,5552,5553,329,5555,1535,5557,5559],{},"Pick one warm colour and put it in the same three places on every model: plume, sash and the cuff or trim of the coat. ",[40,5547,441],{},[40,5549,356],{},[40,5551,385],{}," is the classic. Officers get ",[40,5554,1409],{},[40,5556,691],{},[40,5558,559],{}," to settle it. That discipline - same colour, same places - is what makes a block of infantry look like a regiment.",[15,5561,5563],{"id":5562},"city-palettes","City palettes",[11,5565,5566],{},"The free cities give you a licence to change the whole scheme without changing the models:",[34,5568,5569,5582,5595,5611,5624],{},[37,5570,5571,5574,5575,442,5577,1114,5579,5581],{},[40,5572,5573],{},"Hammerhal Aqsha"," - fire-realm crimson and gold. ",[40,5576,375],{},[40,5578,441],{},[40,5580,1409],{}," trim.",[37,5583,5584,5587,5588,329,5590,1114,5592,5594],{},[40,5585,5586],{},"Tempest's Eye"," - pale blue and bone. ",[40,5589,2211],{},[40,5591,2206],{},[40,5593,570],{}," cloth.",[37,5596,5597,5600,5601,376,5603,376,5605,5608,5609,578],{},[40,5598,5599],{},"Greywater Fastness"," - industrial green and iron. ",[40,5602,4531],{},[40,5604,4846],{},[40,5606,5607],{},"Straken Green"," edges, and plenty of ",[40,5610,1144],{},[37,5612,5613,5616,5617,5620,5621,5623],{},[40,5614,5615],{},"The Living City"," - forest green and brown. ",[40,5618,5619],{},"Loren Forest"," cloth over ",[40,5622,1177],{}," contrast leather.",[37,5625,5626,5629,5630,442,5632,692,5634,578],{},[40,5627,5628],{},"Phoenicium"," - mourning purple. ",[40,5631,4940],{},[40,5633,4943],{},[40,5635,4884],{},[15,5637,66],{"id":65},[34,5639,5640,5646,5656,5662],{},[37,5641,5642,5645],{},[40,5643,5644],{},"Uniform means uniform."," Resist giving each soldier his own coat colour; save the variation for hair and skin.",[37,5647,5648,5651,5652,578],{},[40,5649,5650],{},"Contrast paints earn their keep here."," Thirty infantry is exactly the job they were made for - see the ",[774,5653,5655],{"href":5654},"/guides/best-contrast-paints","contrast paint guide",[37,5657,5658,5661],{},[40,5659,5660],{},"Metal, then cloth."," Painting armour first and cloth over it saves endless tidying on these overlapping sculpts.",[37,5663,5664,5667],{},[40,5665,5666],{},"Banner last."," It is the one place freehand pays off, and it is easier with the model finished.",[11,5669,5670,5671,5675],{},"Once you have chosen a city, ",[774,5672,5674],{"href":5673},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=2f5c96","open the scheme in the generator"," to try the alternatives side by side.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":5677},[5678,5679,5680,5681,5682],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":5458,"depth":89,"text":5459},{"id":5541,"depth":89,"text":5542},{"id":5562,"depth":89,"text":5563},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Cities of Sigmar - disciplined Freeguild blue, steel and red heraldry, with alternative city palettes for Hammerhal Aqsha, Tempest's Eye, Greywater Fastness and the Living City.","Cities of Sigmar","#2f5c96","Freeguild blue, honest steel and city heraldry",{},"/factions/cities-of-sigmar",{"title":5445,"description":5683},"factions/cities-of-sigmar","CHCDYjJW4YhoYVDa4gBy05xGQbsHh0k-AoEYVOOljXI",{"id":5693,"title":5694,"body":5695,"date":833,"description":5939,"extension":98,"faction":5940,"heroImage":510,"hex":5941,"intro":5942,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":5943,"navigation":104,"path":5944,"seo":5945,"stem":5946,"system":842,"__hash__":5947},"factions/factions/corpse-grinder-cults.md","How to Paint Corpse Grinder Cults",{"type":8,"value":5696,"toc":5931},[5697,5700,5702,5705,5709,5712,5741,5756,5770,5774,5777,5804,5814,5818,5830,5844,5860,5864,5867,5887,5890,5892,5924],[11,5698,5699],{},"Corpse Grinder Cults are one of the easiest gangs in Necromunda to make memorable, because the scheme does most of the work for you. Bare-chested killers in butchers' aprons and pale bone bull-masks, carrying cleavers, painted in one loud red against a lot of greasy brown. There is barely any armour to fuss over and no heraldry to line up, so a full gang is an evening or two of work. The flip side is that skin and cloth carry the model rather than crisp edge highlights, so the effort goes into shading rather than lining.",[15,5701,18],{"id":17},[11,5703,5704],{},"One dominant red - the red of a slaughterhouse apron, leaning orange rather than crimson - over dark greased leather, with a bone mask sitting above it and blood on everything below the elbow. Keep the red saturated and everything else muted and low-contrast. If the aprons and the leathers end up at the same value, the whole gang reads as a brown smear from three feet away, which is the only real way to get this scheme wrong.",[15,5706,5708],{"id":5707},"the-butchers-red","The butcher's red",[11,5710,5711],{},"Undercoat black, or grey if you want the red brighter.",[545,5713,5714,5719,5727,5732],{},[37,5715,549,5716,5718],{},[40,5717,441],{},", two thin coats. The first will look chalky over black; the second fixes it.",[37,5720,5470,5721,5723,5724,5726],{},[40,5722,1050],{}," to keep the cloth rich, or ",[40,5725,559],{}," to make it dirtier and browner. On hanging aprons and chain aprons the brown shade is usually the better call.",[37,5728,567,5729,5731],{},[40,5730,385],{}," across the raised folds, leaving the shade sitting in the creases.",[37,5733,1060,5734,5736,5737,5740],{},[40,5735,1370],{}," along the top of each fold, then put a final touch of ",[40,5738,5739],{},"Fire Dragon Bright"," on the hanging bottom edge of the apron only.",[11,5742,5743,5746,5747,5749,5750,5752,5753,5755],{},[40,5744,5745],{},"The fast route:"," undercoat ",[40,5748,301],{},", one coat of ",[40,5751,4797],{}," contrast, then a single ",[40,5754,1370],{}," highlight on the apron hem. That is a tabletop gang in two sittings, and because contrast pools naturally in cloth folds it flatters these sculpts.",[11,5757,5758,5759,442,5762,2730,5765,442,5767,578],{},"Equivalents that genuinely match: Vallejo Game Color ",[40,5760,5761],{},"Gory Red",[40,5763,5764],{},"Bloody Red",[40,5766,1534],{},[40,5768,5769],{},"Wyrmling Red",[15,5771,5773],{"id":5772},"the-bull-masks","The bull-masks",[11,5775,5776],{},"The masks are the faction. They want to be pale and slightly grubby, never bright white.",[545,5778,5779,5783,5789,5794,5799],{},[37,5780,549,5781,578],{},[40,5782,552],{},[37,5784,5785,5786,5788],{},"Wash the whole mask with ",[40,5787,559],{}," and let it collect in the horn grooves and around the rivets.",[37,5790,567,5791,5793],{},[40,5792,570],{}," over the flat planes of the face, leaving the shade in the recesses.",[37,5795,5796,5797,578],{},"Pick the brow ridge, snout and horn tips out in ",[40,5798,577],{},[37,5800,5303,5801,5803],{},[40,5802,712],{}," into the eye slits so they read as holes rather than paint.",[11,5805,5806,5807,5809,5810,5813],{},"Vallejo ",[40,5808,615],{}," or Army Painter ",[40,5811,5812],{},"Pallid Bone"," stand in for the mid-tone perfectly well. Once it is done, drag a little thinned brown up from the chin - these get worn in an abattoir, not a museum.",[15,5815,5817],{"id":5816},"skin-leather-and-steel","Skin, leather and steel",[11,5819,5820,5821,1087,5823,317,5825,345,5827,5829],{},"Skin should stay ruddy. Pale skin fights the red and makes the model look washed out: ",[40,5822,1041],{},[40,5824,1046],{},[40,5826,1056],{},[40,5828,1063],{}," on knuckles, shoulders and the tops of muscles.",[11,5831,5832,5833,1903,5835,5837,5838,5840,5841,5843],{},"Leather aprons, straps and cleaver grips: ",[40,5834,712],{},[40,5836,559],{}," wash, a light drybrush of ",[40,5839,725],{},", and ",[40,5842,988],{}," rubbed onto the wear points. A gloss coat over the straps sells the grease.",[11,5845,5846,5847,376,5849,345,5851,5853,5854,5856,5857,5859],{},"Cleavers, hooks and chains: ",[40,5848,1144],{},[40,5850,356],{},[40,5852,410],{}," on the cutting edge only. Stipple ",[40,5855,1151],{}," near the haft and dust it with ",[40,5858,1155],{}," so the blade looks sharpened but the rest of the tool does not.",[15,5861,5863],{"id":5862},"gore-used-sparingly","Gore, used sparingly",[11,5865,5866],{},"Two states of blood, not one, is what makes this convincing:",[34,5868,5869,5878],{},[37,5870,5871,5874,5875,5877],{},[40,5872,5873],{},"Dried:"," thinned ",[40,5876,375],{}," stippled onto the apron hem, the boots and the lower half of the mask. This is the stain that has soaked in and gone dark.",[37,5879,5880,812,5883,5886],{},[40,5881,5882],{},"Fresh:",[40,5884,5885],{},"Blood for the Blood God"," on the cutting edge, the hands and a few flicked spatters. Keep it to small pools that catch the light.",[11,5888,5889],{},"The dried layer goes on first and covers more area; the gloss layer goes on last and covers very little.",[15,5891,66],{"id":65},[34,5893,5894,5906,5912,5918],{},[37,5895,5896,5899,5900,5902,5903,5905],{},[40,5897,5898],{},"Vary the red between models."," Drop a little ",[40,5901,712],{}," into the base for one fighter and a little ",[40,5904,1370],{}," into another. Identical aprons across ten models look printed.",[37,5907,5908,5911],{},[40,5909,5910],{},"Do not gloss everything."," One or two wet points of red against a matt model is far more butcher's yard than a shiny gang.",[37,5913,5914,5917],{},[40,5915,5916],{},"Leave the leather alone."," It wants to be flat and dark so the apron and the mask are the only things pulling the eye.",[37,5919,5920,5923],{},[40,5921,5922],{},"Batch the masks separately."," They are the fiddliest part and the most visible - do all of them in one sitting while your hand is in.",[11,5925,5926,5927,5930],{},"When the palette is where you want it, ",[774,5928,822],{"href":5929},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=A81C1C"," to swap brands or shift the red warmer or colder.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":5932},[5933,5934,5935,5936,5937,5938],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":5707,"depth":89,"text":5708},{"id":5772,"depth":89,"text":5773},{"id":5816,"depth":89,"text":5817},{"id":5862,"depth":89,"text":5863},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting Corpse Grinder Cults for Necromunda - butcher's-apron red leathers, pale bone bull-masks, greased cleavers and a sensible amount of gore.","Corpse Grinder Cult","#A81C1C","Abattoir red, bone masks and wet blood",{},"/factions/corpse-grinder-cults",{"title":5694,"description":5939},"factions/corpse-grinder-cults","IQ5lz-wI1oDF1fD1HzqBk1onSHs_L7XRjkZkl8P3XLg",{"id":5949,"title":5950,"body":5951,"date":96,"description":6013,"extension":98,"faction":6014,"heroImage":6015,"hex":6016,"intro":6017,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":6018,"navigation":104,"path":6019,"seo":6020,"stem":6021,"system":108,"__hash__":6022},"factions/factions/dark-angels.md","How to Paint Dark Angels",{"type":8,"value":5952,"toc":6007},[5953,5956,5958,5961,5965,5968,5972,5986,5988],[11,5954,5955],{},"Dark Angels give you three distinct looks in one army - the green-armoured battle companies, the bone-white Deathwing terminators and the black Ravenwing bikers - so they stay interesting to paint across a whole force.",[15,5957,18],{"id":17},[11,5959,5960],{},"The core scheme is a deep, slightly muted green armour with bone or off-white robes and gold/brass trim. The green should be dark and sombre, not bright, to match the brooding, secretive character of the chapter.",[15,5962,5964],{"id":5963},"painting-the-green-armour","Painting the green armour",[11,5966,5967],{},"The recipe above gives the ramp. Keep the green desaturated - a touch of the shade mixed into the layer stops it looking too vivid. Edge highlight sparingly so the armour stays dark and grim.",[15,5969,5971],{"id":5970},"the-deathwing-and-ravenwing","The Deathwing and Ravenwing",[34,5973,5974,5980],{},[37,5975,5976,5979],{},[40,5977,5978],{},"Deathwing"," terminators are bone/ivory. Build bone up from a brown base through cream to near-white, and shade with a thin brown wash in the recesses - avoid heavy black washes that dirty the bone.",[37,5981,5982,5985],{},[40,5983,5984],{},"Ravenwing"," bikes and speeders are black with white/bone details and red lenses. Use a blue-grey edge highlight to lift the black so it reads as armour, not a silhouette.",[15,5987,66],{"id":65},[34,5989,5990,5996,6002],{},[37,5991,5992,5995],{},[40,5993,5994],{},"Don't go too bright on the green."," Saturated green looks more Salamanders than Dark Angels.",[37,5997,5998,6001],{},[40,5999,6000],{},"Bone needs warmth, not grey."," Shade robes with brown, not black, or they look dirty rather than aged.",[37,6003,6004,6006],{},[40,6005,79],{}," Dark Angels models are covered in iconography - a careful brown wash over gold trim does most of the work.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":6008},[6009,6010,6011,6012],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":5963,"depth":89,"text":5964},{"id":5970,"depth":89,"text":5971},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Dark Angels - the dark green armour, bone robes of the Deathwing and black of the Ravenwing, with tips for each of the chapter's three wings.","Dark Angels","/images/factions/dark-angels.webp","#1c3a2e","Dark green armour, bone Deathwing and black Ravenwing",{},"/factions/dark-angels",{"title":5950,"description":6013},"factions/dark-angels","Qskh0MjFYNfyNBHTzkkfIJTUFWmamEncDzryQBa2Ao8",{"id":6024,"title":6025,"body":6026,"date":96,"description":6095,"extension":98,"faction":6096,"heroImage":6097,"hex":6098,"intro":6099,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":6100,"navigation":104,"path":6101,"seo":6102,"stem":6103,"system":1667,"__hash__":6104},"factions/factions/daughters-of-khaine.md","How to Paint Daughters of Khaine",{"type":8,"value":6027,"toc":6089},[6028,6031,6033,6036,6040,6060,6064,6067,6069],[11,6029,6030],{},"Daughters of Khaine are a fast, high-contrast aelf army - blood-soaked witch-cultists in red, black and gold over pale skin. Lots of bare skin and cloth means contrast paints carry a big part of the work.",[15,6032,18],{"id":17},[11,6034,6035],{},"Deep red cloth and leather, black armour and scales, gold jewellery and weapons, and pale (sometimes blue-tinged) aelf skin. The scheme is bold and dramatic, fitting the murder-cult theme.",[15,6037,6039],{"id":6038},"painting-the-red-and-skin","Painting the red and skin",[34,6041,6042,6048,6054],{},[37,6043,6044,6047],{},[40,6045,6046],{},"Red"," - a red contrast over a light undercoat gives rich, glossy cloth fast; deepen the recesses with a second pass.",[37,6049,6050,6053],{},[40,6051,6052],{},"Skin"," - a pale flesh basecoat shaded with a soft purple or red wash; keep aelf skin smooth and cool.",[37,6055,6056,6059],{},[40,6057,6058],{},"Black"," - edge-highlight with grey so the black armour and snake-scales read as form, not silhouette.",[15,6061,6063],{"id":6062},"gold-and-accents","Gold and accents",[11,6065,6066],{},"Gold jewellery is everywhere on these models - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight. A few touches of bright blood-red on blades (a gloss \"blood\" technical paint) lean into the army's theme.",[15,6068,66],{"id":65},[34,6070,6071,6077,6083],{},[37,6072,6073,6076],{},[40,6074,6075],{},"Contrast the skin and red."," A pale, cool skin against deep red cloth is the heart of the scheme.",[37,6078,6079,6082],{},[40,6080,6081],{},"Don't leave the black flat."," Grey edge highlights bring the armour to life.",[37,6084,6085,6088],{},[40,6086,6087],{},"Gloss the blood."," Matt blood looks like paint; gloss looks fresh.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":6090},[6091,6092,6093,6094],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6038,"depth":89,"text":6039},{"id":6062,"depth":89,"text":6063},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Daughters of Khaine - the red, black and gold of the blood-soaked aelf witch-cult, with pale skin and plenty of contrast.","Daughters of Khaine","/images/factions/daughters-of-khaine.webp","#7a1620","Red, black and gold for the aelf witch-cult",{},"/factions/daughters-of-khaine",{"title":6025,"description":6095},"factions/daughters-of-khaine","6Za9QOCSPMYli-vZ8wQzDA0aGK2mt2qhHrb5NhvcEWo",{"id":6106,"title":6107,"body":6108,"date":96,"description":6189,"extension":98,"faction":6190,"heroImage":6191,"hex":6192,"intro":6193,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":6194,"navigation":104,"path":6195,"seo":6196,"stem":6197,"system":108,"__hash__":6198},"factions/factions/death-guard.md","How to Paint Death Guard",{"type":8,"value":6109,"toc":6183},[6110,6113,6115,6118,6122,6125,6148,6152,6155,6157],[11,6111,6112],{},"Death Guard are the most forgiving \"advanced-looking\" army in the game. The whole faction is built on decay - rust, slime, rot and grime - which means mess is the point. Every imperfection, pooled wash and uneven layer just reads as more corruption, so this is a fantastic army for painters who want a rich, weathered result without needing crisp, clean technique.",[15,6114,18],{"id":17},[11,6116,6117],{},"Death Guard armour is a sickly, washed-out green - somewhere between pallid bone and rotten olive - covered in rust, verdigris, and oozing wounds. The texture-heavy plague armour kits are designed to take washes and drybrushing, so the techniques that look fiddly on smooth Marines are quick and effective here.",[15,6119,6121],{"id":6120},"painting-the-plague-armour","Painting the plague armour",[11,6123,6124],{},"The recipe above gives you the base ramp for the pallid green. The corruption comes after:",[545,6126,6127,6130,6136,6142],{},[37,6128,6129],{},"Basecoat and shade the armour using the ramp - keep it muted and slightly desaturated.",[37,6131,6132,6135],{},[40,6133,6134],{},"Rust and corrosion:"," stipple orange and brown around rivets, vents and lower edges. Typhus Corrosion or any dark textured wash through the recesses adds instant grime.",[37,6137,6138,6141],{},[40,6139,6140],{},"Verdigris:"," a touch of pale turquoise/green on brass and copper trim sells the centuries of rot.",[37,6143,6144,6147],{},[40,6145,6146],{},"Rust streaks:"," drag thinned orange-brown downward from rivets and chips with a fine brush.",[15,6149,6151],{"id":6150},"gore-slime-and-wounds","Gore, slime and wounds",[11,6153,6154],{},"The exposed guts and tentacles are where contrast paints shine - a single coat of a flesh or purple contrast over a light base gives instant depth. Gloss varnish or a dedicated \"blood\"/slime technical paint on wounds and mouths adds a wet, fresh-rot sheen that contrasts beautifully with the matt armour.",[15,6156,66],{"id":65},[34,6158,6159,6165,6171,6177],{},[37,6160,6161,6164],{},[40,6162,6163],{},"Let the washes pool."," On most armies pooling is a mistake; on Death Guard it is grime. Lean into it.",[37,6166,6167,6170],{},[40,6168,6169],{},"Mix your rust."," Vary orange, brown and dark red so the corrosion looks organic rather than a single flat colour.",[37,6172,6173,6176],{},[40,6174,6175],{},"Matt armour, gloss gore."," The contrast between a flat, dusty body and a few wet, glossy wounds is what makes Death Guard look genuinely diseased.",[37,6178,6179,6182],{},[40,6180,6181],{},"Don't overdo verdigris."," A little on the metal trim is striking; too much turns the whole model green-blue and muddy.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":6184},[6185,6186,6187,6188],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6120,"depth":89,"text":6121},{"id":6150,"depth":89,"text":6151},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting Death Guard - the rotting pallid-green armour, rust and corrosion, gore and grime, with contrast paints doing the heavy lifting on all that texture.","Death Guard","/images/factions/death-guard.webp","#9aa05f","Rotten green armour, rust, corrosion and gore made easy with washes",{},"/factions/death-guard",{"title":6107,"description":6189},"factions/death-guard","9bE4u-xDs1grOzVu27E44g2njoj6RLZCs5NX38yLmFs",{"id":6200,"title":6201,"body":6202,"date":507,"description":6417,"extension":98,"faction":6418,"heroImage":510,"hex":6419,"intro":6420,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":6421,"navigation":104,"path":6422,"seo":6423,"stem":6424,"system":108,"__hash__":6425},"factions/factions/deathwatch.md","How to Paint Deathwatch",{"type":8,"value":6203,"toc":6409},[6204,6207,6210,6212,6215,6219,6235,6243,6247,6266,6274,6278,6297,6312,6316,6319,6378,6381,6383],[11,6205,6206],{},"Deathwatch are a small army that behaves like a large one. You will never paint fifty of them, but each model carries more distinct elements than a standard marine: black plate, a silver left arm, a chapter-coloured right pauldron, gold heraldry and a bone shoulder trim. That is five separate jobs on a body that would otherwise be one.",[11,6208,6209],{},"Set against that, the black armour needs almost no work, and a kill team of five is a genuinely achievable evening. Treat them as characters rather than as a rank and they are one of the most satisfying forces to paint in 40,000.",[15,6211,18],{"id":17},[11,6213,6214],{},"Matt black power armour, a bright silver left shoulder and arm, and a right pauldron painted in the marine's parent chapter colours. Gold ornament, red lenses, and bone-white shoulder trim on the black side. The contrast between the black body and the silver arm is the whole identity - keep the silver bright.",[15,6216,6218],{"id":6217},"the-black-armour","The black armour",[11,6220,6221,6222,6224,6225,6227,6228,6230,6231,6234],{},"Undercoat black. ",[40,6223,371],{}," is your basecoat and needs no shade at all. Edge-highlight with ",[40,6226,1015],{},", thin and only where light would actually catch, then a sparing final touch of ",[40,6229,1019],{}," on the sharpest corners. ",[40,6232,6233],{},"Corvus Black"," works well as a middle step if you want a softer ramp on the larger Terminator and Gravis plates.",[11,6236,6237,6238,1325,6240,6242],{},"If you would rather work over a light undercoat, ",[40,6239,5247],{},[40,6241,305],{}," gives a deep, softly shaded black in one coat and leaves you more time for the details, which is where these models are won.",[15,6244,6246],{"id":6245},"the-silver-arm","The silver arm",[11,6248,6249,6250,1564,6252,6254,6255,6257,6258,6261,6262,6265],{},"Do not use the same metal as the bolter. Base the shoulder and arm ",[40,6251,5036],{},[40,6253,356],{}," but wipe it back so only the recesses hold it, then layer ",[40,6256,410],{}," across the plate and edge ",[40,6259,6260],{},"Stormhost Silver",". ",[40,6263,6264],{},"Grey Knights Steel"," is a good single-step alternative if you want a slightly cooler tone.",[11,6267,6268,6269,1387,6271,6273],{},"The weapon should be visibly duller: ",[40,6270,1144],{},[40,6272,356],{}," and left there.",[15,6275,6277],{"id":6276},"heraldry-gold-and-lenses","Heraldry, gold and lenses",[11,6279,6280,6281,666,6283,1906,6285,6287,6288,376,6290,376,6292,345,6294,6296],{},"The Inquisitorial rosette, aquila and shoulder ornament go ",[40,6282,1409],{},[40,6284,559],{},[40,6286,1414],{},". Bone shoulder trim is ",[40,6289,552],{},[40,6291,559],{},[40,6293,570],{},[40,6295,577],{}," on the outer edge.",[11,6298,6299,6300,6302,6303,6305,6306,6308,6309,6311],{},"Lenses: ",[40,6301,375],{}," in the recess, ",[40,6304,385],{}," across the middle, ",[40,6307,1370],{}," at the lower edge and a single ",[40,6310,348],{}," dot at the top left. Gloss them. On an almost entirely black model, four red lenses are the only warmth.",[15,6313,6315],{"id":6314},"chapter-pauldrons","Chapter pauldrons",[11,6317,6318],{},"The right shoulder is a chance to paint a dozen chapters without committing to any of them:",[34,6320,6321,6330,6338,6346,6355,6365],{},[37,6322,6323,438,6326,442,6328,578],{},[40,6324,6325],{},"Ultramarines",[40,6327,5467],{},[40,6329,5487],{},[37,6331,6332,438,6334,442,6336,578],{},[40,6333,1750],{},[40,6335,441],{},[40,6337,385],{},[37,6339,6340,438,6342,442,6344,578],{},[40,6341,6014],{},[40,6343,312],{},[40,6345,320],{},[37,6347,6348,438,6351,442,6353,578],{},[40,6349,6350],{},"Imperial Fists",[40,6352,453],{},[40,6354,456],{},[37,6356,6357,438,6360,442,6363,578],{},[40,6358,6359],{},"Space Wolves",[40,6361,6362],{},"The Fang",[40,6364,2211],{},[37,6366,6367,438,6370,442,6372,1535,6374,6377],{},[40,6368,6369],{},"Salamanders",[40,6371,312],{},[40,6373,320],{},[40,6375,6376],{},"Rakarth Flesh"," skin.",[11,6379,6380],{},"Paint the pauldron off the model if you can, or leave it unglued. Reaching a shoulder recess past an assembled storm bolter is miserable.",[15,6382,66],{"id":65},[34,6384,6385,6391,6397,6403],{},[37,6386,6387,6390],{},[40,6388,6389],{},"Keep the silver and the gunmetal different."," If they match, the arm stops reading as special.",[37,6392,6393,6396],{},[40,6394,6395],{},"Do not wash the black."," There is nothing for a shade to do, and it dulls the finish.",[37,6398,6399,6402],{},[40,6400,6401],{},"Batch the black, individualise the rest."," Twenty minutes of armour then an hour of details is the right ratio.",[37,6404,6405,6408],{},[40,6406,6407],{},"Assemble late."," Deathwatch models are covered in overlapping detail; subassemblies save far more time than they cost.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":6410},[6411,6412,6413,6414,6415,6416],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6217,"depth":89,"text":6218},{"id":6245,"depth":89,"text":6246},{"id":6276,"depth":89,"text":6277},{"id":6314,"depth":89,"text":6315},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Deathwatch - black armour with a silver left shoulder, chapter-coloured pauldrons, gold Inquisitorial heraldry and the bone-white shoulder trim that ties the kill team together.","Deathwatch","#191c20","Black plate, a silver arm, and one shoulder from every chapter",{},"/factions/deathwatch",{"title":6201,"description":6417},"factions/deathwatch","40101EW54H-OcAgwW4zORH9GczJUBOHJkfXItFrhclY",{"id":6427,"title":6428,"body":6429,"date":507,"description":6625,"extension":98,"faction":6626,"heroImage":510,"hex":6627,"intro":6628,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":6629,"navigation":104,"path":6630,"seo":6631,"stem":6632,"system":1667,"__hash__":6633},"factions/factions/disciples-of-tzeentch.md","How to Paint Disciples of Tzeentch",{"type":8,"value":6430,"toc":6618},[6431,6434,6436,6439,6443,6446,6470,6488,6501,6505,6508,6557,6560,6564,6583,6585,6611],[11,6432,6433],{},"Tzeentch is the one Chaos army where a garish palette is correct. Blue and pink sit opposite each other on the wheel and the range leans into it: mortal cultists in blue robes, daemons in screaming pink, gold everywhere, and fire that burns the wrong colours. If you have been waiting for an excuse to paint something loud, this is it.",[15,6435,18],{"id":17},[11,6437,6438],{},"Rich blue armour and robes on the Arcanites, hot pink daemon flesh, warm gold masks and trim, and blue-green or purple flame. Feathers, beaks and scrolls break up the surfaces. The scheme should look like it is about to change into a different scheme.",[15,6440,6442],{"id":6441},"painting-the-arcanites","Painting the Arcanites",[11,6444,6445],{},"Kairic Acolytes and Tzaangors are the bulk of a mortal force and both take the same blue.",[545,6447,6448,6454,6459,6464],{},[37,6449,6450,6451,578],{},"Basecoat robes and plate ",[40,6452,6453],{},"Thousand Sons Blue",[37,6455,1790,6456,6458],{},[40,6457,669],{},", letting it pool in the folds.",[37,6460,567,6461,6463],{},[40,6462,4899],{}," on the raised cloth and panels.",[37,6465,6466,6467,6469],{},"Edge highlight ",[40,6468,388],{},", and stop there - a lighter blue than that turns chalky.",[11,6471,6472,1325,6474,6476,6477,612,6479,1535,6481,6483,6484,442,6486,578],{},[40,6473,5494],{},[40,6475,305],{}," is the fast equivalent and suits Tzaangor feathers particularly well, because it shades the barbs for you. Tzaangor fur takes ",[40,6478,552],{},[40,6480,559],{},[40,6482,570],{}," on the shaggy tips; beaks and horns go ",[40,6485,712],{},[40,6487,590],{},[11,6489,6490,6491,376,6493,345,6495,6497,6498,6500],{},"Gold masks and icons are the unifying element: ",[40,6492,691],{},[40,6494,559],{},[40,6496,1409],{}," on the raised work and ",[40,6499,410],{}," on the very edge of a beaked helm.",[15,6502,6504],{"id":6503},"the-changehost","The changehost",[11,6506,6507],{},"Horrors are the joy of this army because the models tell you the recipe. Pink Horrors split into Blues, and Blues into Brimstones, so the colours are a ladder rather than three unrelated schemes.",[34,6509,6510,6528,6540],{},[37,6511,6512,438,6515,1903,6517,2870,6519,2873,6521,6523,6524,6527],{},[40,6513,6514],{},"Pink Horrors",[40,6516,4881],{},[40,6518,4884],{},[40,6520,4888],{},[40,6522,4891],{}," on the raised flesh. ",[40,6525,6526],{},"Volupus Pink"," contrast over white gets you most of the way in one coat.",[37,6529,6530,438,6533,1387,6535,6537,6538,578],{},[40,6531,6532],{},"Blue Horrors",[40,6534,6453],{},[40,6536,669],{}," and layered up through ",[40,6539,4902],{},[37,6541,6542,438,6545,1903,6547,2870,6550,6553,6554,6556],{},[40,6543,6544],{},"Brimstone Horrors",[40,6546,453],{},[40,6548,6549],{},"Casandora Yellow",[40,6551,6552],{},"Flash Gitz Yellow"," highlight, with ",[40,6555,5119],{}," in the deepest recesses so they read as small flames.",[11,6558,6559],{},"Horrors are gleefully quick. There is almost no armour, the sculpts are all raised muscle, and washes do the shading for you - a unit of ten is an evening's work.",[15,6561,6563],{"id":6562},"warpfire-and-eyes","Warpfire and eyes",[11,6565,6566,6567,302,6569,6571,6572,302,6574,6576,6577,6579,6580,6582],{},"Tzeentchian fire should not be orange. Build it from ",[40,6568,312],{},[40,6570,379],{}," at the base, through ",[40,6573,320],{},[40,6575,388],{},", to ",[40,6578,324],{}," and a near-white ",[40,6581,341],{}," core, then glaze the surrounding surfaces with a thinned coat of the mid colour so the light appears to spill. The same treatment on eyes and gemstones ties casters to daemons.",[15,6584,66],{"id":65},[34,6586,6587,6593,6599,6605],{},[37,6588,6589,6592],{},[40,6590,6591],{},"Commit to the clash."," Muted Tzeentch looks like a mistake; blue against pink is the whole idea.",[37,6594,6595,6598],{},[40,6596,6597],{},"One flame colour per army."," Choose green or blue warpfire and stick with it, or the force loses its thread.",[37,6600,6601,6604],{},[40,6602,6603],{},"Feathers reward contrast paints."," They are recessed and repetitive - exactly the case those paints solve.",[37,6606,6607,6610],{},[40,6608,6609],{},"Glaze the glow."," Light spilling onto nearby armour is what makes fire look lit rather than painted on.",[11,6612,6613,6614,6617],{},"Try the palette both ways round in the ",[774,6615,1265],{"href":6616},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=1f6fa8"," before you commit a whole changehost.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":6619},[6620,6621,6622,6623,6624],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6441,"depth":89,"text":6442},{"id":6503,"depth":89,"text":6504},{"id":6562,"depth":89,"text":6563},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Disciples of Tzeentch - the clashing blues and pinks, gold masks, feathered Tzaangors and warpfire glow, with a full recipe ladder for a splitting Horror changehost.","Disciples of Tzeentch","#1f6fa8","Shifting blue and pink, feathers and warpfire",{},"/factions/disciples-of-tzeentch",{"title":6428,"description":6625},"factions/disciples-of-tzeentch","9Y3XM-7-CAxH6-_CbVGz4X_a8u4GKiNScEfM3KiCFvM",{"id":6635,"title":6636,"body":6637,"date":507,"description":6855,"extension":98,"faction":6856,"heroImage":510,"hex":6857,"intro":6858,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":6859,"navigation":104,"path":6860,"seo":6861,"stem":6862,"system":108,"__hash__":6863},"factions/factions/drukhari.md","How to Paint Drukhari",{"type":8,"value":6638,"toc":6847},[6639,6642,6645,6647,6650,6654,6673,6685,6691,6694,6713,6719,6723,6746,6763,6767,6770,6819,6821],[11,6640,6641],{},"Drukhari are a study in contrast: very dark armour, very pale skin, and edges everywhere. The models are covered in blades, spines and armour plates that all terminate in a hard line, which makes edge highlighting the single technique that defines the army. Skip it and a Kabalite Warrior is a black smudge; do it and the model looks like it could cut you.",[11,6643,6644],{},"They are quicker than they look. The armour is one dark colour over a dark undercoat, the skin is small, and there is very little cloth or ornament to slow you down.",[15,6646,18],{"id":17},[11,6648,6649],{},"Deep, cold armour - teal, green or near-black - highlighted to a sharp bright edge, with bone-pale skin, dark leather and glinting bladed weapons. Nothing on a Drukhari model is warm except the poison and the blood.",[15,6651,6653],{"id":6652},"kabalite-armour","Kabalite armour",[11,6655,6656,6657,1564,6659,6661,6662,6664,6665,6668,6669,6672],{},"Undercoat black. Base the plates ",[40,6658,352],{},[40,6660,356],{}," in the recesses only, then layer ",[40,6663,360],{}," across the raised areas. Edge-highlight ",[40,6666,6667],{},"Sybarite Green",", and on the very sharpest points add a hint of ",[40,6670,6671],{},"Gauss Blaster Green",". Keep every highlight to a thin line - a broad highlight on armour this dark just looks like a second basecoat.",[11,6674,6675,6676,6678,6679,6681,6682,6684],{},"Faster route: ",[40,6677,684],{}," contrast over a ",[40,6680,305],{}," undercoat gives you the base and shade in one, and you can go straight to the ",[40,6683,6667],{}," edge.",[11,6686,6687,6688,6690],{},"Armour panels on vehicles and the Raider hulls take the same recipe, but drybrush ",[40,6689,360],{}," across the large flat areas before edging so they do not read as slabs.",[15,6692,6052],{"id":6693},"skin",[11,6695,6696,6697,6699,6700,6702,6703,6705,6706,6709,6710,6712],{},"Drukhari skin should look like it has never seen a sun. Base ",[40,6698,6376],{},", shade with thinned ",[40,6701,4884],{}," rather than a flesh wash, then layer ",[40,6704,584],{}," and highlight the cheekbones, nose and knuckles with ",[40,6707,6708],{},"Praxeti White",". A tiny amount of ",[40,6711,1050],{}," glazed into the lips and around the eyes puts some life back without warming the whole face.",[11,6714,6715,6716,6718],{},"For Wyches and anyone with more skin showing, add a faint ",[40,6717,4946],{}," glaze into the shadows of the limbs - it keeps large areas of pale flesh from going flat.",[15,6720,6722],{"id":6721},"blades-leather-and-poison","Blades, leather and poison",[11,6724,6725,6726,1387,6728,345,6730,6732,6733,6735,6736,1918,6738,1047,6740,6742,6743,6745],{},"Blades are the second signature. ",[40,6727,1144],{},[40,6729,356],{},[40,6731,410],{}," on the cutting edge and ",[40,6734,6260],{}," at the tip. Leather straps and bodygloves in ",[40,6737,712],{},[40,6739,963],{},[40,6741,371],{}," edged ",[40,6744,1015],{}," for a glossier look.",[11,6747,6748,6749,6752,6753,6755,6756,442,6758,1607,6760,6762],{},"Poison is the accent that ties the army together. Glaze ",[40,6750,6751],{},"Waywatcher Green"," along the blade edge and let it pool, or run ",[40,6754,4860],{}," into a barb for something viscous. Splinter weapon crystals take ",[40,6757,4943],{},[40,6759,4946],{},[40,6761,348],{}," dot.",[15,6764,6766],{"id":6765},"kabal-colour-schemes","Kabal colour schemes",[11,6768,6769],{},"The recipe stays the same; change the armour colour and the trim.",[34,6771,6772,6778,6788,6796,6809],{},[37,6773,6774,6777],{},[40,6775,6776],{},"Black Heart"," - dark teal plate with bone and gold trim, the studio scheme.",[37,6779,6780,438,6783,442,6785,6787],{},[40,6781,6782],{},"Poisoned Tongue",[40,6784,4940],{},[40,6786,4943],{},", with acid-green weapons.",[37,6789,6790,438,6793,6795],{},[40,6791,6792],{},"Flayed Skull",[40,6794,441],{}," plate with bone-white trim and lots of exposed metal.",[37,6797,6798,438,6801,6803,6804,1535,6806,6808],{},[40,6799,6800],{},"Obsidian Rose",[40,6802,371],{}," plate edged ",[40,6805,1015],{},[40,6807,4881],{}," detailing.",[37,6810,6811,438,6814,442,6816,6818],{},[40,6812,6813],{},"Baleful Gaze",[40,6815,379],{},[40,6817,467],{},", cold and clean.",[15,6820,66],{"id":65},[34,6822,6823,6829,6835,6841],{},[37,6824,6825,6828],{},[40,6826,6827],{},"Edge highlight everything."," It is the whole technique. Thin your paint and use the side of the brush.",[37,6830,6831,6834],{},[40,6832,6833],{},"Do not warm the skin."," Flesh washes make Drukhari look like sunburnt humans.",[37,6836,6837,6840],{},[40,6838,6839],{},"Keep the blades cleaner than the armour."," Bright metal against dark plate is the visual hook.",[37,6842,6843,6846],{},[40,6844,6845],{},"Wyches take longer than Kabalites."," Plan for it - far more skin, far more straps.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":6848},[6849,6850,6851,6852,6853,6854],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6652,"depth":89,"text":6653},{"id":6693,"depth":89,"text":6052},{"id":6721,"depth":89,"text":6722},{"id":6765,"depth":89,"text":6766},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Drukhari - dark kabalite armour with sharp edge highlights, pallid skin, bladed weapons and the kabal colour schemes from the Black Heart to the Poisoned Tongue.","Drukhari","#14504b","Dark kabalite plate, pallid skin and razor-sharp edges",{},"/factions/drukhari",{"title":6636,"description":6855},"factions/drukhari","0N35MipZYCjUyBY5y4NgGEOHIdEstLs0OpdvDvwViR8",{"id":6865,"title":6866,"body":6867,"date":833,"description":7180,"extension":98,"faction":7181,"heroImage":510,"hex":7182,"intro":7183,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":7184,"navigation":104,"path":7185,"seo":7186,"stem":7187,"system":1284,"__hash__":7188},"factions/factions/dwarfen-mountain-holds.md","How to Paint Dwarfen Mountain Holds",{"type":8,"value":6868,"toc":7171},[6869,6872,6875,6877,6880,6883,6887,6913,6924,6939,6943,6965,6979,6988,6992,7005,7017,7021,7024,7082,7090,7094,7097,7120,7130,7132,7164],[11,6870,6871],{},"Dwarfs reward a slower recipe than most rank-and-file armies, because you need fewer of them. A dwarf unit is twenty models where an equivalent human one is thirty, the models are dense with detail, and the army has no cavalry to eat your evenings. That makes a Mountain Holds force one of the few places you can paint a whole army the careful way and still finish it.",[11,6873,6874],{},"The other thing to know before you start: a third of each model is beard. Plan the beard first, not last.",[15,6876,18],{"id":17},[11,6878,6879],{},"Deep, slightly greyed hold blue on cloaks, hoods and tabards. Warm bronze and gold on helms, buckles, tankards and rune plates. Heavy, unpolished gromril steel with a lot of shadow in it. And a beard that carries the model's only bright colour, whether that is ginger, white or blond.",[11,6881,6882],{},"The whole scheme is a warm-metal-against-cool-cloth trick. Everything else is detail.",[15,6884,6886],{"id":6885},"the-blue","The blue",[545,6888,6889,6894,6900,6905],{},[37,6890,549,6891,6893],{},[40,6892,379],{},", two thin coats. It is darker than it looks in the pot and gives you room to build.",[37,6895,6896,6897,6899],{},"Shade the deep folds with ",[40,6898,356],{},". Dwarf cloth is heavy wool, so the shadows should be genuinely dark.",[37,6901,567,6902,6904],{},[40,6903,5467],{}," across the raised folds.",[37,6906,1060,6907,6909,6910,6912],{},[40,6908,5481],{}," on the fold tops, then a fine edge of ",[40,6911,2211],{}," on hood rims and cloak edges.",[11,6914,1851,6915,5749,6917,6920,6921,6923],{},[40,6916,305],{},[40,6918,6919],{},"Ultramarines Blue",", then drybrush ",[40,6922,2211],{}," across the raised wool. Two steps, and the drybrush does the work of two layers on a heavily folded cloak.",[11,6925,6926,6927,442,6930,6933,6934,442,6936,578],{},"Vallejo painters can substitute ",[40,6928,6929],{},"Imperial Blue",[40,6931,6932],{},"Magic Blue","; Army Painter Fanatic gives ",[40,6935,5500],{},[40,6937,6938],{},"Crystal Blue",[15,6940,6942],{"id":6941},"bronze-and-gold","Bronze and gold",[545,6944,6945,6949,6953,6958],{},[37,6946,549,6947,578],{},[40,6948,691],{},[37,6950,556,6951,578],{},[40,6952,559],{},[37,6954,567,6955,6957],{},[40,6956,698],{}," on the raised faces.",[37,6959,1060,6960,1047,6962,6964],{},[40,6961,1573],{},[40,6963,1414],{}," where you want a richer metal.",[11,6966,6967,6968,6970,6971,6974,6975,6978],{},"Lords, thanes and rune priests should outshine the line. Start those on ",[40,6969,1409],{}," instead and finish with ",[40,6972,6973],{},"Liberator Gold",", and the command group separates itself without a single extra colour. ",[40,6976,6977],{},"Hashut Copper"," is worth keeping to hand for tankards, horns and lamp fittings.",[11,6980,6981,6982,6984,6985,6987],{},"For centuries-old bronze, thin ",[40,6983,5104],{}," into the recesses of a gyrocopter boiler or an ancestor shrine, and touch a little ",[40,6986,360],{}," onto the flat panels. Verdigris is seasoning; use it on one or two pieces, not on everything metal.",[15,6989,6991],{"id":6990},"gromril-steel","Gromril steel",[11,6993,6994,1903,6996,6998,6999,7001,7002,7004],{},[40,6995,1144],{},[40,6997,356],{}," all over, ",[40,7000,5036],{}," on the plate edges, ",[40,7003,6260],{}," on the very sharpest corners of axe heads and hammer faces. Do not brighten dwarf steel too far - it is cast and hammered, not polished.",[11,7006,7007,7008,7010,7011,7013,7014,7016],{},"For dark gromril on Ironbreakers and Irondrakes, undercoat ",[40,7009,371],{},", drybrush ",[40,7012,1144],{}," hard from above, then edge ",[40,7015,5036],{},". It is faster than the layered version and better suited to those kits.",[15,7018,7020],{"id":7019},"beards","Beards",[11,7022,7023],{},"Pick one dominant beard colour for the hold and let two or three models per unit break the pattern.",[34,7025,7026,7042,7057,7070],{},[37,7027,7028,812,7031,666,7033,317,7035,1906,7037,345,7039,7041],{},[40,7029,7030],{},"Ginger, the classic:",[40,7032,725],{},[40,7034,559],{},[40,7036,988],{},[40,7038,5119],{},[40,7040,5739],{}," on the plait tips only.",[37,7043,7044,812,7047,666,7049,7010,7051,345,7054,7056],{},[40,7045,7046],{},"White, for elders and longbeards:",[40,7048,344],{},[40,7050,356],{},[40,7052,7053],{},"Longbeard Grey",[40,7055,348],{}," picked along the outermost strands.",[37,7058,7059,812,7062,666,7064,317,7066,1906,7068,578],{},[40,7060,7061],{},"Blond:",[40,7063,552],{},[40,7065,559],{},[40,7067,570],{},[40,7069,577],{},[37,7071,7072,812,7075,7010,7077,7079,7080,578],{},[40,7073,7074],{},"Black:",[40,7076,371],{},[40,7078,1015],{},", edge ",[40,7081,1019],{},[11,7083,7084,7085,612,7087,7089],{},"Whichever you choose, work along the direction of the braid rather than across it, and finish by picking out individual strands with the final highlight. A beard is the one place on the model where a slightly scruffy, uneven highlight looks better than a tidy one. ",[40,7086,1180],{},[40,7088,1177],{}," each give a decent one-coat beard over a bone undercoat if you are batching.",[15,7091,7093],{"id":7092},"runic-shields","Runic shields",[11,7095,7096],{},"Runes are freehand, but they are the friendly kind: straight strokes of even width on a flat surface.",[545,7098,7099,7102,7105,7114],{},[37,7100,7101],{},"Finish the shield face completely - basecoat, shade, highlight - before you touch the rune.",[37,7103,7104],{},"Sketch the rune lightly in pencil. It wipes off with a damp brush.",[37,7106,7107,7108,1535,7110,7113],{},"Thin ",[40,7109,691],{},[40,7111,7112],{},"Lahmian Medium"," and lay the strokes in, keeping every stroke the same width. Two thin passes beat one thick one.",[37,7115,7116,7117,7119],{},"Highlight the inner half of each stroke with ",[40,7118,1414],{}," so the rune looks engraved rather than printed on.",[11,7121,7122,7123,7125,7126,695,7128,578],{},"The reverse also works and suits Ironbreakers: a ",[40,7124,1144],{}," shield with the rune in ",[40,7127,441],{},[40,7129,385],{},[15,7131,66],{"id":65},[34,7133,7134,7140,7146,7152,7158],{},[37,7135,7136,7139],{},[40,7137,7138],{},"Beard before face."," Paint the beard, then cut the flesh in above it. Doing it the other way round means tidying a hairline you cannot reach.",[37,7141,7142,7145],{},[40,7143,7144],{},"Warm metal, cool cloth."," If the bronze drifts silvery or the blue drifts warm, the scheme collapses into one muddy temperature.",[37,7147,7148,7151],{},[40,7149,7150],{},"Do not highlight the blue too far."," Hold blue should stay deep. Stopping one step short reads as heavy wool; going one step too far reads as sky.",[37,7153,7154,7157],{},[40,7155,7156],{},"A small army earns a slower recipe."," Twenty dwarfs painted properly beat forty rushed, and you will actually finish them.",[37,7159,7160,7163],{},[40,7161,7162],{},"Ration the verdigris."," One green-crusted boiler is characterful. A whole army of them looks like Nurgle got in.",[11,7165,7166,7167,7170],{},"When you are happy with the palette, ",[774,7168,822],{"href":7169},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=205d8f"," to swap paints between brands, nudge the mood or add a secondary colour.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":7172},[7173,7174,7175,7176,7177,7178,7179],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6885,"depth":89,"text":6886},{"id":6941,"depth":89,"text":6942},{"id":6990,"depth":89,"text":6991},{"id":7019,"depth":89,"text":7020},{"id":7092,"depth":89,"text":7093},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Dwarfen Mountain Holds - deep hold blue cloth, warm bronze and gold, gromril steel, four beard recipes and the freehand runes that go on the shields.","Dwarfen Mountain Holds","#205d8f","Hold blue, warm bronze and a very great deal of beard",{},"/factions/dwarfen-mountain-holds",{"title":6866,"description":7180},"factions/dwarfen-mountain-holds","5rKG06G1wdpwtRE7AH53wkwG2oiKQDTFLO-bn-2CXE4",{"id":7190,"title":7191,"body":7192,"date":507,"description":7406,"extension":98,"faction":7254,"heroImage":510,"hex":7407,"intro":7408,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":7409,"navigation":104,"path":7410,"seo":7411,"stem":7412,"system":108,"__hash__":7413},"factions/factions/emperors-children.md","How to Paint Emperor's Children",{"type":8,"value":7193,"toc":7398},[7194,7197,7200,7202,7205,7209,7216,7237,7249,7262,7266,7283,7286,7290,7310,7330,7337,7341,7370,7372],[11,7195,7196],{},"The Third Legion are the hardest thing on this list to paint badly and get away with. Every other Chaos force can hide behind rust and grime; a legion built on the idea of perfection cannot. The armour needs to be smooth, the gold needs to be bright, and the edges need to be clean. Budget more time per model than you would for any other Chaos Space Marine.",[11,7198,7199],{},"The compensation is that a finished squad looks like nothing else on the table, and the palette does most of the heavy lifting for you.",[15,7201,18],{"id":17},[11,7203,7204],{},"Rich purple plate with an enormous amount of gold trim, gloss where everyone else is matt, and pale, almost porcelain skin on any exposed face. As the legion falls further, the purples get pinker and the ornament gets more excessive - but the finish stays immaculate.",[15,7206,7208],{"id":7207},"the-purple-armour","The purple armour",[11,7210,7211,7212,302,7214,578],{},"Purple is a difficult colour over black, so undercoat ",[40,7213,305],{},[40,7215,301],{},[11,7217,7218,7219,7221,7222,7224,7225,7227,7228,7230,7231,7233,7234,7236],{},"Base ",[40,7220,4940],{},", shade the recesses with ",[40,7223,4884],{},", then layer ",[40,7226,4943],{}," over the panel, leaving the shade in the joins. Highlight ",[40,7229,4946],{}," on the raised areas and edge with ",[40,7232,4950],{}," on the sharpest lines only. For the last catch on helmet crests and knee edges, a touch of ",[40,7235,4929],{}," reads as light rather than as pink.",[11,7238,7239,7240,1325,7243,7245,7246,7248],{},"The fast route is genuinely good here: ",[40,7241,7242],{},"Luxion Purple",[40,7244,305],{}," gives a deep, glossy purple with the recesses shaded in a single coat, and edging it with ",[40,7247,4946],{}," afterwards gets you most of the way to the layered result.",[11,7250,7251,7252,7255,7256,7258,7259,7261],{},"For a more decadent, post-Heresy warband, swap to ",[40,7253,7254],{},"Emperor's Children"," as the mid-tone with ",[40,7257,4891],{}," highlights, or run ",[40,7260,6526],{}," contrast for a hot magenta plate.",[15,7263,7265],{"id":7264},"gold-trim","Gold trim",[11,7267,7268,7269,666,7271,7273,7274,7276,7277,7279,7280,7282],{},"The gold is not an accent on these models - it is half the surface. Base ",[40,7270,1409],{},[40,7272,559],{}," kept to the recesses, layer ",[40,7275,1414],{}," and edge ",[40,7278,6973],{},". A final pinpoint of ",[40,7281,6260],{}," on the highest corner of each shoulder rim sells the polish.",[11,7284,7285],{},"Keep the gold consistent across the squad. Nothing exposes a rushed batch faster than one marine's trim being browner than his neighbour's.",[15,7287,7289],{"id":7288},"sonic-weapons-skin-and-gloss","Sonic weapons, skin and gloss",[11,7291,7292,7293,1387,7295,1535,7297,7299,7300,442,7302,7304,7305,6742,7307,7309],{},"Sonic weaponry takes ",[40,7294,1144],{},[40,7296,356],{},[40,7298,410],{}," edges, and the amplifier cones look best given a bronze interior - ",[40,7301,1563],{},[40,7303,4823],{},". Cabling in ",[40,7306,371],{},[40,7308,1015],{}," keeps it from competing.",[11,7311,7312,7313,7315,7316,7318,7319,1390,7321,7323,7324,7326,7327,7329],{},"Exposed skin should be pale and cold: ",[40,7314,6376],{},", glazed ",[40,7317,4884],{}," in the shadows, layered ",[40,7320,584],{},[40,7322,6708],{},". Hair in ",[40,7325,371],{}," or a bleached ",[40,7328,577],{}," for a Noise Marine.",[11,7331,7332,7333,7336],{},"Finish with ",[40,7334,7335],{},"'Ardcoat"," on the purple plates only. Gloss armour against matt cloth and metal is the single cheapest way to make the legion look excessive.",[15,7338,7340],{"id":7339},"variations","Variations",[34,7342,7343,7349,7358,7364],{},[37,7344,7345,7348],{},[40,7346,7347],{},"Pre-Heresy parade scheme"," - purple with white shoulder rims and far more gold, immaculate and unweathered.",[37,7350,7351,7354,7355,7357],{},[40,7352,7353],{},"Palatine Blades"," - the same purple with bare ",[40,7356,410],{}," plate on the arms and legs.",[37,7359,7360,7363],{},[40,7361,7362],{},"Flawless Host"," - a warmer magenta plate with heavy gold, deliberately gaudy.",[37,7365,7366,7369],{},[40,7367,7368],{},"Blissful Excess"," - pale pink over bone, with purple only in the recesses.",[15,7371,66],{"id":65},[34,7373,7374,7380,7386,7392],{},[37,7375,7376,7379],{},[40,7377,7378],{},"Thin the purple."," Two or three thin coats. Purple pigment is weak and one thick coat will look chalky.",[37,7381,7382,7385],{},[40,7383,7384],{},"Do not weather them."," Chipping and rust undercut the entire concept.",[37,7387,7388,7391],{},[40,7389,7390],{},"Batch the gold."," It is the slowest step, so do all the trim on all the models in one sitting.",[37,7393,7394,7397],{},[40,7395,7396],{},"Gloss selectively."," Everything glossed reads as unfinished; armour glossed reads as deliberate.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":7399},[7400,7401,7402,7403,7404,7405],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":7207,"depth":89,"text":7208},{"id":7264,"depth":89,"text":7265},{"id":7288,"depth":89,"text":7289},{"id":7339,"depth":89,"text":7340},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Emperor's Children - the purple and gold of the Third Legion, glossy excess, sonic weaponry and the shift from parade-ground perfection to Slaaneshi decadence.","#7a2b6d","Purple plate, obsessive gold, and a finish that has to be perfect",{},"/factions/emperors-children",{"title":7191,"description":7406},"factions/emperors-children","h8tlygvWHKT8lfHwowkSPsxHb3MfvV-CUOcaUH8HhJY",{"id":7415,"title":7416,"body":7417,"date":833,"description":7687,"extension":98,"faction":7688,"heroImage":510,"hex":7689,"intro":7690,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":7691,"navigation":104,"path":7692,"seo":7693,"stem":7694,"system":1284,"__hash__":7695},"factions/factions/empire-of-man.md","How to Paint Empire of Man",{"type":8,"value":7418,"toc":7678},[7419,7422,7425,7427,7430,7433,7437,7464,7468,7490,7505,7509,7512,7538,7541,7545,7608,7612,7634,7636,7673],[11,7420,7421],{},"The Empire has the most decorative rank and file in fantasy: Renaissance landsknecht uniforms with halved hose, slashed sleeves, feathered hats and a halberd. It looks intimidating and it is not, because almost all of that detail is two colours meeting on a hard edge. If you can paint a straight line down a leg, you can paint a state regiment.",[11,7423,7424],{},"Pick your province before you pick your paints, because the province is the recipe. Altdorf is red and blue, Nuln black and white, Averland yellow and black, Middenheim blue and white, Talabecland red and yellow, Ostland white and black, Stirland green and yellow, Reikland red and cream. This guide works through Altdorf red and blue; swap the two colours for any other state and nothing else changes.",[15,7426,18],{"id":17},[11,7428,7429],{},"A soldier split down the middle. Left leg one state colour, right leg the other; sleeves reversed so the colours cross diagonally over the body. Cream or off-white lining shows through the slashes in the sleeves and breeches. Everything else - leather, steel, wood, flesh - is deliberately drab so the halving reads at arm's length.",[11,7431,7432],{},"Decide your handedness rule once (say, red on the model's right leg and left sleeve) and apply it to every model in the unit. An inconsistent regiment looks like a mistake; a consistent one looks like a uniform.",[15,7434,7436],{"id":7435},"the-red-half","The red half",[545,7438,7439,7443,7451,7456],{},[37,7440,549,7441,553],{},[40,7442,375],{},[37,7444,5470,7445,7447,7448,7450],{},[40,7446,1050],{},". It keeps the shadow red; ",[40,7449,559],{}," browns it, which suits a campaign-worn regiment if that is what you want.",[37,7452,567,7453,7455],{},[40,7454,441],{}," on the raised cloth.",[37,7457,1060,7458,7460,7461,7463],{},[40,7459,385],{}," along the fold tops, then a final thin catch of ",[40,7462,1370],{}," on characters and the command group only.",[15,7465,7467],{"id":7466},"the-blue-half","The blue half",[545,7469,7470,7474,7478,7485],{},[37,7471,549,7472,578],{},[40,7473,379],{},[37,7475,556,7476,578],{},[40,7477,669],{},[37,7479,567,7480,345,7482,7484],{},[40,7481,5467],{},[40,7483,5481],{}," on the raised folds.",[37,7486,7487,7488,578],{},"Edge-highlight ",[40,7489,5487],{},[11,7491,7492,7493,612,7495,442,7497,6933,7499,612,7501,442,7503,578],{},"Vallejo painters can run ",[40,7494,5764],{},[40,7496,6929],{},[40,7498,6932],{},[40,7500,1534],{},[40,7502,5500],{},[40,7504,6938],{},[15,7506,7508],{"id":7507},"puff-and-slash-sleeves","Puff-and-slash sleeves",[11,7510,7511],{},"The slashes are gaps in the outer fabric with a lining colour showing through, and the trick is to paint them in the opposite order to the one that seems obvious.",[545,7513,7514,7523,7529,7532],{},[37,7515,7516,7517,7519,7520,7522],{},"Block the whole sleeve in the lining colour - ",[40,7518,570],{}," for a warm cream, ",[40,7521,6376],{}," for a cooler one.",[37,7524,7525,7526,7528],{},"Shade the lining with ",[40,7527,559],{}," so the gaps already have depth before you cover anything.",[37,7530,7531],{},"Cut the state colour back over the sleeve in stripes, leaving the lining showing in the slash gaps. Follow the direction the sculptor gave the puff; the stripes should bulge, not run dead straight.",[37,7533,7534,7535,7537],{},"Highlight each puff of the state colour on its top curve, and touch ",[40,7536,577],{}," onto the brightest edge of the exposed lining.",[11,7539,7540],{},"Cutting a dark colour over cream takes one pass. Painting cream into a dark gap takes three and never looks clean, which is why so many half-finished Empire regiments have muddy sleeves.",[15,7542,7544],{"id":7543},"leather-steel-wood-and-flesh","Leather, steel, wood and flesh",[34,7546,7547,7558,7576,7585,7597],{},[37,7548,7549,7550,692,7552,4885,7554,695,7556,578],{},"Leather belts, boots and straps: ",[40,7551,712],{},[40,7553,559],{},[40,7555,725],{},[40,7557,988],{},[37,7559,7560,7561,376,7563,376,7565,7567,7568,7570,7571,1162,7573,7575],{},"Steel: ",[40,7562,1144],{},[40,7564,356],{},[40,7566,5036],{}," on the edges, ",[40,7569,410],{}," on the halberd blade. Blackened helmets and breastplates are ",[40,7572,371],{},[40,7574,1015],{},", which reads as cheap state-issue armour rather than knightly plate.",[37,7577,7578,7579,376,7581,376,7583,578],{},"Brass fittings, buckles and handgun furniture: ",[40,7580,691],{},[40,7582,559],{},[40,7584,698],{},[37,7586,7587,7588,376,7590,3536,7592,6261,7594,7596],{},"Wooden hafts and stocks: ",[40,7589,963],{},[40,7591,559],{},[40,7593,970],{},[40,7595,1177],{}," in one coat is just as good on a rank-and-file haft.",[37,7598,1950,7599,376,7601,376,7603,345,7605,7607],{},[40,7600,1041],{},[40,7602,1046],{},[40,7604,1056],{},[40,7606,1063],{}," on the nose, brow and cheekbones.",[15,7609,7611],{"id":7610},"the-fast-state-regiment","The fast state regiment",[11,7613,540,7614,7616,7617,612,7619,7621,7622,7624,7625,7627,7628,7630,7631,7633],{},[40,7615,301],{},", then one coat each of ",[40,7618,4797],{},[40,7620,6919],{}," on the halves, ",[40,7623,646],{}," on the leather, ",[40,7626,1197],{}," over the steel and ",[40,7629,1177],{}," on the wood. Tidy the lining back to ",[40,7632,570],{}," with a fine brush and highlight nothing else. That produces a convincing twenty-man regiment in a fraction of the time, and the halving does so much visual work that the shortcuts do not show at rank distance.",[15,7635,66],{"id":65},[34,7637,7638,7644,7650,7656,7667],{},[37,7639,7640,7643],{},[40,7641,7642],{},"Pick a state and stay in it."," Mixed provinces in one regiment is the commonest Empire mistake, and it makes a unit look unpainted rather than varied.",[37,7645,7646,7649],{},[40,7647,7648],{},"Cut dark over light, never light over dark."," True of the sleeves, the halving line and the hat feathers.",[37,7651,7652,7655],{},[40,7653,7654],{},"Keep the lining colour constant"," across the whole army, even when the state colours change. It is the thread that holds a mixed force together.",[37,7657,7658,7661,7662,302,7664,7666],{},[40,7659,7660],{},"Feathers are free character."," A hat feather in ",[40,7663,453],{},[40,7665,348],{}," costs one minute and lifts a rank-and-file model enormously.",[37,7668,7669,7672],{},[40,7670,7671],{},"Do not halve everything."," Hose and sleeves are halved; hats, boots, leather and steel stay common. Halving the whole model turns a uniform into a harlequin.",[11,7674,7166,7675,7170],{},[774,7676,822],{"href":7677},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=a3302b",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":7679},[7680,7681,7682,7683,7684,7685,7686],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":7435,"depth":89,"text":7436},{"id":7466,"depth":89,"text":7467},{"id":7507,"depth":89,"text":7508},{"id":7543,"depth":89,"text":7544},{"id":7610,"depth":89,"text":7611},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Empire of Man - halved state-colour uniforms in Altdorf red and blue, puff-and-slash sleeves, leather and blackened steel, plus a fast contrast route for a state regiment.","Empire of Man","#a3302b","Halved state uniforms, slashed sleeves and honest steel",{},"/factions/empire-of-man",{"title":7416,"description":7687},"factions/empire-of-man","oQWuMr_Yql4IGagX4UHF-3o8KBuBIXL2EfWbWauvbSs",{"id":7697,"title":7698,"body":7699,"date":507,"description":7915,"extension":98,"faction":7916,"heroImage":510,"hex":7917,"intro":7918,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":7919,"navigation":104,"path":7920,"seo":7921,"stem":7922,"system":1667,"__hash__":7923},"factions/factions/flesh-eater-courts.md","How to Paint Flesh-eater Courts",{"type":8,"value":7700,"toc":7907},[7701,7704,7706,7709,7713,7716,7742,7754,7770,7774,7795,7809,7813,7816,7865,7869,7872,7874,7900],[11,7702,7703],{},"The Flesh-eater Courts believe they are a noble order of knights. Everyone else sees starving ghouls in rags. The whole army is built on that gap, and your painting should sell both readings at once: gaunt, unhealthy flesh, and just enough tarnished heraldry to suggest a court that fell apart centuries ago.",[15,7705,18],{"id":17},[11,7707,7708],{},"Pale, sickly flesh with a violet cast in the hollows. Rusted iron scraps worn as though they were plate. Faded crimson and dulled gold heraldry on banners and the Abhorrants. And blood - around mouths, on hands, dried into fur. Nothing should look new, and nothing should look clean.",[15,7710,7712],{"id":7711},"painting-ghoul-flesh","Painting ghoul flesh",[11,7714,7715],{},"Skin is nearly the whole model, so it is worth getting right and worth getting fast.",[545,7717,7718,7723,7732,7737],{},[37,7719,549,7720,7722],{},[40,7721,6376],{}," over a grey or white undercoat.",[37,7724,7725,7726,7728,7729,7731],{},"Shade with thinned ",[40,7727,4884],{}," in the deepest recesses and ",[40,7730,559],{}," around fingers, joints and the belly, so the shadows are not all one colour.",[37,7733,567,7734,7736],{},[40,7735,584],{}," across ribs, shoulders and the stretched skin of the face.",[37,7738,7739,7740,578],{},"Highlight the sharpest points - cheekbones, knuckles, spine - with ",[40,7741,577],{},[11,7743,7744,7745,1325,7748,7750,7751,7753],{},"The one-pass version is ",[40,7746,7747],{},"Apothecary White",[40,7749,301],{},", which shades that bony anatomy beautifully and leaves you free to spend the time on faces. Push a warmer, more diseased tone with ",[40,7752,1190],{}," instead if you want ghouls that look feverish rather than drowned.",[11,7755,7756,7757,3536,7759,7761,7762,1607,7764,7766,7767,7769],{},"Hair and fur go ",[40,7758,712],{},[40,7760,988],{},". Nails, teeth and horns take ",[40,7763,552],{},[40,7765,563],{}," wash and ",[40,7768,570],{}," tips.",[15,7771,7773],{"id":7772},"rust-rags-and-heraldry","Rust, rags and heraldry",[11,7775,7776,7777,7779,7780,345,7782,7784,7785,7787,7788,612,7790,1047,7792,7794],{},"The kit is scavenged, so treat metal badly. ",[40,7778,1144],{}," basecoat, a stipple of ",[40,7781,1151],{},[40,7783,1155],{}," dabbed on with a torn sponge and a ",[40,7786,356],{}," wash to knock it back. Rags take ",[40,7789,552],{},[40,7791,559],{},[40,7793,646],{}," contrast for speed.",[11,7796,7797,7798,353,7800,7802,7803,7805,7806,7808],{},"Heraldry is the one place to use colour. Keep it to banners, shields and the courtiers: ",[40,7799,441],{},[40,7801,559],{}," rather than a clean red, and ",[40,7804,691],{}," left dull under a heavy wash. Finish with ",[40,7807,1588],{}," at the mouths, on the last third of the blades, and nowhere else.",[15,7810,7812],{"id":7811},"court-palettes","Court palettes",[11,7814,7815],{},"The great courts each pull the scheme in a different direction, and all of them work on the same models:",[34,7817,7818,7831,7842,7856],{},[37,7819,7820,7823,7824,329,7826,1114,7828,7830],{},[40,7821,7822],{},"Blisterskin"," - sunburnt and blistered. ",[40,7825,1056],{},[40,7827,1041],{},[40,7829,1050],{}," flushing the shoulders and face.",[37,7832,7833,7836,7837,442,7839,7841],{},[40,7834,7835],{},"Morgaunt"," - crimson-liveried. Push ",[40,7838,375],{},[40,7840,441],{}," on every rag and banner.",[37,7843,7844,7847,7848,7850,7851,1114,7853,7855],{},[40,7845,7846],{},"Hollowmourne"," - bone and gold. ",[40,7849,570],{}," kit over ",[40,7852,552],{},[40,7854,1409],{}," on the courtiers.",[37,7857,7858,7861,7862,7864],{},[40,7859,7860],{},"Gristlegore"," - feral and green-tinged. Add a thinned glaze of ",[40,7863,4846],{}," over finished skin.",[15,7866,7868],{"id":7867},"speed-and-scale","Speed and scale",[11,7870,7871],{},"Crypt Ghouls arrive in blocks and Cryptguard are not far behind, so this is a batch army. The good news is that the flesh recipe covers most of every model, there is very little edge highlighting to do, and rust is forgiving by design. A twenty-strong unit gets to a solid tabletop standard in a couple of sittings, which is not true of most horde armies.",[15,7873,66],{"id":65},[34,7875,7876,7882,7888,7894],{},[37,7877,7878,7881],{},[40,7879,7880],{},"Vary the shade colours."," Violet in the deep hollows and brown at the joints stops the skin looking like grey plastic.",[37,7883,7884,7887],{},[40,7885,7886],{},"Do not clean up the rust."," Uneven, patchy corrosion is more convincing than a tidy pattern.",[37,7889,7890,7893],{},[40,7891,7892],{},"Faces first."," They carry the model; everything else is fur and scrap.",[37,7895,7896,7899],{},[40,7897,7898],{},"Blood at the mouth only."," It reads as feeding rather than combat, which is the point of the army.",[11,7901,7902,7903,7906],{},"Test a court palette against your ghoul tone in the ",[774,7904,1265],{"href":7905},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=a3907f"," before you commit the whole horde.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":7908},[7909,7910,7911,7912,7913,7914],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":7711,"depth":89,"text":7712},{"id":7772,"depth":89,"text":7773},{"id":7811,"depth":89,"text":7812},{"id":7867,"depth":89,"text":7868},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Flesh-eater Courts - pale ghoul flesh, rusted scraps mistaken for knightly plate and tattered heraldry, with court palettes and a fast route for blocks of Crypt Ghouls.","Flesh-eater Courts","#a3907f","Pale ghoul flesh, rust and delusions of chivalry",{},"/factions/flesh-eater-courts",{"title":7698,"description":7915},"factions/flesh-eater-courts","Iy0jyzZlYIUOp-Fu_rRTZuRkJc5blikkDMAJTb9I76k",{"id":7925,"title":7926,"body":7927,"date":96,"description":8000,"extension":98,"faction":8001,"heroImage":8002,"hex":8003,"intro":8004,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":8005,"navigation":104,"path":8006,"seo":8007,"stem":8008,"system":1667,"__hash__":8009},"factions/factions/fyreslayers.md","How to Paint Fyreslayers",{"type":8,"value":7928,"toc":7994},[7929,7932,7934,7937,7941,7954,7958,7972,7974],[11,7930,7931],{},"Fyreslayers are fire-worshipping duardin - bare-chested berserkers with towering orange mohawks and bronze war-gear. Lots of skin and hair, little armour, and a warm fiery palette make them a distinctive and quick army to paint.",[15,7933,18],{"id":17},[11,7935,7936],{},"Bright orange flaming crests and beards, warm bronze and gold war-plate, tanned bare skin, and ember or lava glows. The whole army runs hot - oranges, golds and reds - which makes it pop on the table.",[15,7938,7940],{"id":7939},"painting-hair-and-skin","Painting hair and skin",[34,7942,7943,7949],{},[37,7944,7945,7948],{},[40,7946,7947],{},"Fiery crests/beards"," - basecoat orange (or a yellow-to-orange blend), shade the roots with red, and highlight the tips toward yellow for a flame effect. An orange contrast over a light undercoat is the fast version.",[37,7950,7951,7953],{},[40,7952,6052],{}," - a warm tan flesh, shaded with a brown or red wash and highlighted up; keep it healthy and sun-baked.",[15,7955,7957],{"id":7956},"bronze-and-ember-effects","Bronze and ember effects",[34,7959,7960,7966],{},[37,7961,7962,7965],{},[40,7963,7964],{},"Bronze/gold"," war-plate - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight; the warm metal suits the fire theme.",[37,7967,7968,7971],{},[40,7969,7970],{},"Lava and embers"," - on bases and weapons, blend black rock up through deep red to bright orange and yellow cracks for a glowing magma effect.",[15,7973,66],{"id":65},[34,7975,7976,7982,7988],{},[37,7977,7978,7981],{},[40,7979,7980],{},"Blend the crests."," A red-root to yellow-tip gradient sells the flaming hair.",[37,7983,7984,7987],{},[40,7985,7986],{},"Keep it warm."," Oranges, bronzes and tans - avoid cool colours that fight the fire theme.",[37,7989,7990,7993],{},[40,7991,7992],{},"Lava bases."," A glowing magma base ties the fiery army together.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":7995},[7996,7997,7998,7999],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":7939,"depth":89,"text":7940},{"id":7956,"depth":89,"text":7957},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Fyreslayers - the fiery orange crests, bronze and bare skin of the fire-duardin, with lava and ember effects.","Fyreslayers","/images/factions/fyreslayers.webp","#c2541f","Fiery crests, bronze and bare skin with ember glow",{},"/factions/fyreslayers",{"title":7926,"description":8000},"factions/fyreslayers","qV91fipNOubJjqCvgvHx0Gc54tlEqdFD857pHo6pmqc",{"id":8011,"title":8012,"body":8013,"date":507,"description":8226,"extension":98,"faction":8227,"heroImage":510,"hex":8228,"intro":8229,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":8230,"navigation":104,"path":8231,"seo":8232,"stem":8233,"system":108,"__hash__":8234},"factions/factions/genestealer-cults.md","How to Paint Genestealer Cults",{"type":8,"value":8014,"toc":8219},[8015,8018,8021,8023,8026,8030,8033,8056,8078,8097,8101,8114,8137,8148,8152,8155,8192,8194],[11,8016,8017],{},"Genestealer Cults are two armies wearing one uniform. Half of every model is human - overalls, boots, tools, respirators - and half is alien, all purple carapace and chitin claws. The trick to painting them quickly is to accept that and split the work: block the drab half fast with washes and contrast, then spend your time on the skin, which is what people actually look at.",[11,8019,8020],{},"They are a mid-speed army. Not a Necron drybrush job, but nowhere near a clean marine chapter either, because the industrial half is meant to be filthy.",[15,8022,18],{"id":17},[11,8024,8025],{},"Purple-blue hybrid flesh and hard chitin plates set against yellow, ochre or drab work clothing, everything covered in the dust of an underground world. The contrast between an alien claw and a mining helmet is the joke the whole faction is built on, so make sure both halves are readable.",[15,8027,8029],{"id":8028},"hybrid-skin-and-chitin","Hybrid skin and chitin",[11,8031,8032],{},"The skin should sit between human and purestrain.",[545,8034,8035,8039,8043,8051],{},[37,8036,7218,8037,953],{},[40,8038,4940],{},[37,8040,1502,8041,578],{},[40,8042,4884],{},[37,8044,567,8045,8047,8048,8050],{},[40,8046,4943],{}," over the muscle, then ",[40,8049,4946],{}," on the raised areas.",[37,8052,1060,8053,8055],{},[40,8054,4950],{}," on knuckles, brow ridges and the tops of the chitin plates.",[11,8057,8058,8059,8062,8063,8065,8066,8068,8069,376,8071,376,8073,376,8075,8077],{},"For the fast version, ",[40,8060,8061],{},"Leviathan Purple"," contrast straight over ",[40,8064,301],{}," gives you a usable hybrid in one coat, and a single ",[40,8067,4946],{}," drybrush lifts it back up. For hybrids further from the patriarch, mix the transition: paint the human half in a normal flesh ramp - ",[40,8070,1041],{},[40,8072,1046],{},[40,8074,1056],{},[40,8076,1063],{}," - and let it blend into the purple at the shoulder.",[11,8079,8080,8081,376,8083,376,8085,376,8087,8089,8090,442,8092,1607,8094,8096],{},"Purestrain Genestealers get the same purple with a bone carapace: ",[40,8082,552],{},[40,8084,559],{},[40,8086,570],{},[40,8088,577],{},". Claws in ",[40,8091,712],{},[40,8093,577],{},[40,8095,356],{}," wash at the base.",[15,8098,8100],{"id":8099},"overalls-tools-and-grime","Overalls, tools and grime",[11,8102,8103,8104,302,8106,8108,8109,4642,8111,8113],{},"The industrial half is where you save time. Base the overalls ",[40,8105,598],{},[40,8107,552],{},", wash the lot with ",[40,8110,559],{},[40,8112,590],{},". That is a complete pair of overalls in three steps.",[11,8115,8116,8117,1387,8120,357,8122,8124,8125,442,8127,8129,8130,1535,8132,1381,8134,8136],{},"Respirators, mining lamps and rebreather hoses in ",[40,8118,8119],{},"Mechanicus Standard Grey",[40,8121,356],{},[40,8123,1019],{},". Boots and belts ",[40,8126,712],{},[40,8128,963],{},". Weapons in ",[40,8131,1144],{},[40,8133,356],{},[40,8135,1155],{}," stipple - these are stolen and maintained badly.",[11,8138,8139,8140,8143,8144,8147],{},"Finish with a dusting of ",[40,8141,8142],{},"Terminatus Stone"," drybrushed up the legs and across the boots, and ",[40,8145,8146],{},"Stirland Mud"," on the base blending onto the feet. Cult models should look like they came out of a tunnel.",[15,8149,8151],{"id":8150},"cult-colour-schemes","Cult colour schemes",[11,8153,8154],{},"The purple skin stays; the workwear changes to fit the world.",[34,8156,8157,8166,8172,8180,8186],{},[37,8158,8159,8162,8163,8165],{},[40,8160,8161],{},"Cult of the Four-Armed Emperor"," - ochre and ",[40,8164,552],{}," overalls, the studio look.",[37,8167,8168,8171],{},[40,8169,8170],{},"Bladed Cog"," - dark red workwear with brass fittings, borrowed from a forge world.",[37,8173,8174,438,8177,8179],{},[40,8175,8176],{},"Rusted Claw",[40,8178,453],{}," overalls, everything heavily rusted.",[37,8181,8182,8185],{},[40,8183,8184],{},"Twisted Helix"," - lab whites and pale grey, cleaner and much faster to paint.",[37,8187,8188,8191],{},[40,8189,8190],{},"Pauper Princes"," - deep blue and bone with far more religious ornament.",[15,8193,66],{"id":65},[34,8195,8196,8202,8208,8213],{},[37,8197,8198,8201],{},[40,8199,8200],{},"Keep the two halves distinct."," If the skin and the overalls are similar in value, the model turns to mush at arm's length.",[37,8203,8204,8207],{},[40,8205,8206],{},"Wash the workwear, layer the skin."," Spend your effort where it shows.",[37,8209,8210,8212],{},[40,8211,4439],{}," Dust and grime are part of the identity.",[37,8214,8215,8218],{},[40,8216,8217],{},"Batch aggressively."," Neophyte squads are large and the overall recipe is three steps - do twenty at once.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":8220},[8221,8222,8223,8224,8225],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":8028,"depth":89,"text":8029},{"id":8099,"depth":89,"text":8100},{"id":8150,"depth":89,"text":8151},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Genestealer Cults - purple alien skin against drab mining overalls, the four-armed hybrids, industrial grime, and cult colour schemes for different worlds.","Genestealer Cults","#4a2f6e","Purple hybrid skin against dirty mining overalls",{},"/factions/genestealer-cults",{"title":8012,"description":8226},"factions/genestealer-cults","dnNwHJYJ__5les3GNb6qWaA8ohGiRkQiUXcVk6Wsm0o",{"id":8236,"title":8237,"body":8238,"date":96,"description":8298,"extension":98,"faction":8299,"heroImage":8300,"hex":8301,"intro":8302,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":8303,"navigation":104,"path":8304,"seo":8305,"stem":8306,"system":1667,"__hash__":8307},"factions/factions/gloomspite-gitz.md","How to Paint Gloomspite Gitz",{"type":8,"value":8239,"toc":8292},[8240,8243,8245,8248,8252,8263,8267,8270,8272],[11,8241,8242],{},"Gloomspite Gitz are cave-dwelling, moon-worshipping grots - a horde army with a unique, atmospheric palette built around the bad moon's eerie light, glowing fungus and gloomy underground colours.",[15,8244,18],{"id":17},[11,8246,8247],{},"Dark blue-grey or muted green grot skin, dark robes and hoods, rusty crude weapons, and the glowing accents of moonshine - luminous yellow-green moons, mushrooms and squig flesh. The army should feel like it just crept out of a damp, moonlit cave.",[15,8249,8251],{"id":8250},"painting-grot-skin-fast","Painting grot skin fast",[34,8253,8254,8257,8260],{},[37,8255,8256],{},"A grey-green or blue-grey skin contrast over a light undercoat shades the wrinkly grot skin in one pass.",[37,8258,8259],{},"Drybrush or layer a lighter tone on the noses, brows and knuckles.",[37,8261,8262],{},"Keep the skin muted - the bright colours come from the glow, not the grots.",[15,8264,8266],{"id":8265},"glowing-moons-and-mushrooms","Glowing moons and mushrooms",[11,8268,8269],{},"The signature effect is luminescence: glowing moon symbols, mushroom caps and squigs. Build them from a dark base up to a bright yellow-green, almost-white core, and glaze the glow onto nearby surfaces (object-source lighting). Bright red squigs are a fun warm counterpoint to all the cold moonlight.",[15,8271,66],{"id":65},[34,8273,8274,8280,8286],{},[37,8275,8276,8279],{},[40,8277,8278],{},"Mute the skin, glow the moons."," The contrast between gloomy grots and luminous fungus is the whole atmosphere.",[37,8281,8282,8285],{},[40,8283,8284],{},"Use contrast paints."," The wrinkly, organic models love them.",[37,8287,8288,8291],{},[40,8289,8290],{},"Add squig colour."," A few bright red squigs stop the palette feeling entirely cold.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":8293},[8294,8295,8296,8297],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":8250,"depth":89,"text":8251},{"id":8265,"depth":89,"text":8266},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Gloomspite Gitz - the moon-touched grots with their dark blue-grey skin, glowing moons, mushrooms and cave palette.","Gloomspite Gitz","/images/factions/gloomspite-gitz.webp","#4a3a6b","Moonclan grots, glowing moons and cave mushrooms",{},"/factions/gloomspite-gitz",{"title":8237,"description":8298},"factions/gloomspite-gitz","E_rYIAO5nk511GlQw5coJJuu9ahrwFZi9M2vPiIqDiQ",{"id":8309,"title":8310,"body":8311,"date":833,"description":8582,"extension":98,"faction":8583,"heroImage":510,"hex":8584,"intro":8585,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":8586,"navigation":104,"path":8587,"seo":8588,"stem":8589,"system":1284,"__hash__":8590},"factions/factions/grand-cathay.md","How to Paint Grand Cathay",{"type":8,"value":8312,"toc":8573},[8313,8316,8319,8321,8324,8328,8331,8365,8373,8386,8388,8402,8411,8415,8434,8447,8451,8454,8475,8492,8512,8516,8529,8531,8566],[11,8314,8315],{},"Grand Cathay is the newest and smallest of the Old World ranges, which makes it an unusually pleasant place to start. There are few enough kits that you can hold the whole scheme in your head, the armour is made of large lacquered plates that take a clean highlight, and the palette is only three colours doing very distinct jobs.",[11,8317,8318],{},"Those three are jade, gold and red, and the reason the army looks the way it does is that they are not blended into one another. The jade is a hard surface, the gold is line work, and the red is fabric. Keep those textures separate and the models look lacquered rather than merely green.",[15,8320,18],{"id":17},[11,8322,8323],{},"Deep jade-green plate with a sharp, almost white highlight along the top of each lamellar scale; warm imperial gold on rims, studs, dragon motifs and helm crests; and celestial red on banners, sashes, silks and lacquered wood. Skin is warm, cloth beneath the armour is bone or cream, and the whole model finishes gloss on the armour and matt everywhere else.",[15,8325,8327],{"id":8326},"the-jade-lacquer","The jade lacquer",[11,8329,8330],{},"Undercoat black. Lacquer is a dark, saturated surface and it needs a dark start.",[545,8332,8333,8338,8347,8352,8357],{},[37,8334,549,8335,8337],{},[40,8336,352],{},", two thin coats. It will look almost black in the pot and correct on the model.",[37,8339,556,8340,8342,8343,8346],{},[40,8341,356],{}," in the joins between lamellar plates, or ",[40,8344,8345],{},"Coelia Greenshade"," if you want the shadow to stay green rather than neutral.",[37,8348,567,8349,8351],{},[40,8350,360],{}," over each plate, leaving the base colour showing as a border around every scale.",[37,8353,567,8354,8356],{},[40,8355,6667],{}," on the upper half of each plate, a smaller area again.",[37,8358,7487,8359,8361,8362,8364],{},[40,8360,6671],{}," along the top edge of each scale, and put a very short catch of ",[40,8363,348],{}," on the corners of shoulder plates and helm crests.",[11,8366,8367,8368,8372],{},"Then gloss varnish the armour and nothing else. This is the step most people skip and it is the one that turns green paint into lacquer. The ",[774,8369,8371],{"href":8370},"/guides/edge-highlighting","edge highlighting"," guide covers keeping that step-five line thin enough to read as a reflection.",[11,8374,8375,8376,376,8379,376,8381,612,8383,8385],{},"For a cooler, more oceanic jade, run the same structure through ",[40,8377,8378],{},"Stegadon Scale Green",[40,8380,665],{},[40,8382,672],{},[40,8384,676],{},". It suits the Celestial Dragon Guard and the more ethereal units.",[15,8387,629],{"id":628},[11,8389,540,8390,8392,8393,8395,8396,8398,8399,8401],{},[40,8391,301],{},", give the plate one coat of ",[40,8394,680],{}," contrast, and edge it with ",[40,8397,6667],{},". Two steps, and the contrast pooling in the lamellar joins does the shading for free. Gloss it and it stands up next to the layered version at tabletop distance. ",[40,8400,684],{}," contrast gives a deeper, bluer result over the same undercoat.",[11,8403,8404,8405,612,8408,8410],{},"Army Painter shelves cover this with ",[40,8406,8407],{},"Angel Green",[40,8409,6938],{},"; Vallejo painters can build the ramp from Emerald and Turquoise up to Pale Blue.",[15,8412,8414],{"id":8413},"imperial-gold","Imperial gold",[11,8416,8417,8418,666,8420,8422,8423,8425,8426,8428,8429,1387,8431,8433],{},"Cathayan gold should be warm, not brassy. Basecoat ",[40,8419,1409],{},[40,8421,1046],{}," rather than a brown wash - it keeps the metal glowing - then layer ",[40,8424,1414],{}," on the raised areas and finish with the smallest possible catch of ",[40,8427,6260],{},". On the larger gold surfaces of the war machines and the Dragon-blooded characters, drop in ",[40,8430,691],{},[40,8432,559],{}," for a deeper, older-looking metal, and reserve the bright ramp for edges and ornament.",[11,8435,8436,8437,376,8439,376,8441,8443,8444,8446],{},"Weapon blades and armour beneath the lacquer: ",[40,8438,1144],{},[40,8440,356],{},[40,8442,5036],{}," on the edges, a fine line of ",[40,8445,410],{}," along the cutting edge.",[15,8448,8450],{"id":8449},"celestial-reds-and-silks","Celestial reds and silks",[11,8452,8453],{},"Banners, sashes, lacquered hafts and shield fields:",[545,8455,8456,8460,8465,8470],{},[37,8457,549,8458,578],{},[40,8459,441],{},[37,8461,556,8462,8464],{},[40,8463,1050],{}," - a crimson wash keeps the red rich, where a brown one drags it towards rust.",[37,8466,567,8467,8469],{},[40,8468,385],{}," across the raised cloth.",[37,8471,1060,8472,8474],{},[40,8473,1370],{}," on the topmost folds and the leading edge of a banner.",[11,8476,8477,302,8479,329,8481,8483,8484,1387,8486,8488,8489,8491],{},[40,8478,4797],{},[40,8480,1527],{},[40,8482,301],{}," does the same in one coat, which is worth it on the large banner surfaces this army carries. Undershirts, sleeves and rope in ",[40,8485,552],{},[40,8487,559],{}," and layered ",[40,8490,570],{}," give the red something quiet to sit against.",[11,8493,8494,8495,376,8497,376,8499,376,8501,8503,8504,1162,8506,1047,8508,442,8510,578],{},"Skin is warm: ",[40,8496,1041],{},[40,8498,1046],{},[40,8500,1056],{},[40,8502,1063],{}," on the brow and nose. Hair and beards in ",[40,8505,371],{},[40,8507,1015],{},[40,8509,712],{},[40,8511,725],{},[15,8513,8515],{"id":8514},"the-jade-constructs","The jade constructs",[11,8517,8518,8519,7010,8521,3676,8523,8525,8526,8528],{},"Terracotta sentinels and the animated jade war machines want stone rather than lacquer, and they are a different recipe: basecoat ",[40,8520,352],{},[40,8522,360],{},[40,8524,4851],{}," all over rather than layering panel by panel, then stipple ",[40,8527,5104],{}," into the recesses and along the joints. Leave them matt. The contrast between a matt, chalky jade construct and the gloss lacquer of the warriors around it is one of the best effects in the range, and it costs nothing but a change of varnish.",[15,8530,66],{"id":65},[34,8532,8533,8539,8548,8554,8560],{},[37,8534,8535,8538],{},[40,8536,8537],{},"Gloss the armour, matt everything else."," This is the single decision that makes Cathay look like Cathay. One finish across the whole model throws the effect away.",[37,8540,8541,8544,8545,8547],{},[40,8542,8543],{},"Start jade from a dark base."," Painting ",[40,8546,360],{}," straight over grey gives you a flat mint colour with nowhere to shade to.",[37,8549,8550,8553],{},[40,8551,8552],{},"Leave a border of the base colour around every scale."," Layering right to the edge of each plate loses the lamellar texture that the sculpts are built around.",[37,8555,8556,8559],{},[40,8557,8558],{},"Keep the gold as line work."," Large gold areas fight the jade for attention; gold should trace the design, not fill it.",[37,8561,8562,8565],{},[40,8563,8564],{},"Ration the red to fabric."," Red on armour panels turns the scheme muddy - the whole palette depends on red meaning cloth.",[11,8567,8568,8569,8572],{},"Try the balance of jade, gold and red in the ",[774,8570,1265],{"href":8571},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=23a08a"," before you commit the host.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":8574},[8575,8576,8577,8578,8579,8580,8581],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":8326,"depth":89,"text":8327},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":8413,"depth":89,"text":8414},{"id":8449,"depth":89,"text":8450},{"id":8514,"depth":89,"text":8515},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Grand Cathay for The Old World - jade lacquered armour with a hard gloss highlight, warm imperial gold, celestial reds on banners and silks, and a jade-stone recipe for the constructs.","Grand Cathay","#23a08a","Jade lacquer, imperial gold and celestial red",{},"/factions/grand-cathay",{"title":8310,"description":8582},"factions/grand-cathay","p7Q37mTzIvUGQjtbD5r3fcK4-L04eo3WDBBA7MVzi-M",{"id":8592,"title":8593,"body":8594,"date":96,"description":8657,"extension":98,"faction":8658,"heroImage":8659,"hex":8660,"intro":8661,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":8662,"navigation":104,"path":8663,"seo":8664,"stem":8665,"system":108,"__hash__":8666},"factions/factions/grey-knights.md","How to Paint Grey Knights",{"type":8,"value":8595,"toc":8651},[8596,8599,8601,8604,8608,8619,8622,8626,8629,8631],[11,8597,8598],{},"Grey Knights are silver power armour with gold and bone detailing - a fast army to basecoat thanks to the metallic armour, with plenty of scope for magical force-weapon effects on the characters.",[15,8600,18],{"id":17},[11,8602,8603],{},"Bright but cool silver armour, gold trim, bone tabards and lots of ornate Nemesis weapons. The silver should look clean and noble rather than dirty or industrial.",[15,8605,8607],{"id":8606},"painting-the-silver-armour","Painting the silver armour",[34,8609,8610,8613,8616],{},[37,8611,8612],{},"Basecoat a bright silver (or a leadbelcher-type dark silver for a moodier look).",[37,8614,8615],{},"Shade with a thin black or blue wash in the recesses only - don't drown the metal or it goes grimy.",[37,8617,8618],{},"Edge highlight with a brighter silver. Metallics already catch the light, so highlights should be subtle.",[11,8620,8621],{},"A metallic basecoat plus a careful recess wash gets a Grey Knight tabletop-ready very quickly.",[15,8623,8625],{"id":8624},"force-weapons-and-accents","Force weapons and accents",[11,8627,8628],{},"The glowing Nemesis force weapons are the highlight: object-source lighting in blue or a cool white, with the glow glazed onto the surrounding hand and armour. Gold trim and red/blue books and seals finish the look.",[15,8630,66],{"id":65},[34,8632,8633,8639,8645],{},[37,8634,8635,8638],{},[40,8636,8637],{},"Don't over-wash the silver."," A light recess wash keeps it noble; a heavy one makes it look like dirty steel.",[37,8640,8641,8644],{},[40,8642,8643],{},"Subtle highlights."," Metallics reflect light already - go gentle.",[37,8646,8647,8650],{},[40,8648,8649],{},"Make the weapons glow."," A consistent force-weapon colour ties the army together.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":8652},[8653,8654,8655,8656],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":8606,"depth":89,"text":8607},{"id":8624,"depth":89,"text":8625},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Grey Knights - the silver power armour, with tips for keeping metallics clean and adding the chapter's signature force-weapon glow.","Grey Knights","/images/factions/grey-knights.webp","#8b9096","Clean silver armour and glowing force weapons",{},"/factions/grey-knights",{"title":8593,"description":8657},"factions/grey-knights","I9h4jTxgACVLEzISTR8aaeVIplVbfR3wiIXdtZYAyyQ",{"id":8668,"title":8669,"body":8670,"date":507,"description":8865,"extension":98,"faction":8866,"heroImage":510,"hex":8867,"intro":8868,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":8869,"navigation":104,"path":8870,"seo":8871,"stem":8872,"system":1667,"__hash__":8873},"factions/factions/hedonites-of-slaanesh.md","How to Paint Hedonites of Slaanesh",{"type":8,"value":8671,"toc":8857},[8672,8675,8677,8680,8684,8706,8730,8734,8750,8775,8779,8782,8815,8819,8822,8824,8850],[11,8673,8674],{},"Slaanesh is an excess army painted with restraint, which sounds contradictory until you try it. The models are covered in silk, hair, claws and polished metal, and if every one of those surfaces shouts you get noise. Choose two loud colours, put everything else in service of them, and the force looks decadent rather than confused.",[15,8676,18],{"id":17},[11,8678,8679],{},"Cool lilac-grey daemon flesh against hot pink and magenta cloth, with bright, almost mirror-finish gold armour and black leather. Mortal Hedonites - Painbringers, Slickblades, Blissbarb Archers - carry more of the gold and less of the flesh, which makes them a useful contrast to a daemon block on the table.",[15,8681,8683],{"id":8682},"painting-daemonette-flesh","Painting daemonette flesh",[545,8685,8686,8692,8696,8701],{},[37,8687,549,8688,8691],{},[40,8689,8690],{},"Daemonette Hide"," over a black or grey undercoat.",[37,8693,1502,8694,578],{},[40,8695,4884],{},[37,8697,567,8698,8700],{},[40,8699,4929],{}," across the raised muscle and the front of the limbs.",[37,8702,1804,8703,8705],{},[40,8704,4950],{},", keeping it to the top planes so the flesh stays cool.",[11,8707,8708,8709,442,8711,695,8713,8715,8716,376,8718,345,8720,612,8722,8724,8725,1325,8727,8729],{},"Claws and crab-arms are the accent: ",[40,8710,4940],{},[40,8712,4943],{},[40,8714,4946],{},", with a gloss varnish if you want them to look like polished chitin. Hair takes ",[40,8717,4881],{},[40,8719,4884],{},[40,8721,4888],{},[40,8723,4891],{}," at the tips - or ",[40,8726,6526],{},[40,8728,305],{}," for a one-coat version that suits a block of six.",[15,8731,8733],{"id":8732},"silks-and-gold","Silks and gold",[11,8735,8736,8737,666,8739,317,8741,8743,8744,6261,8746,8749],{},"Cloth is where the pink lives. Basecoat ",[40,8738,4881],{},[40,8740,4884],{},[40,8742,4888],{}," on the raised folds and edge ",[40,8745,4891],{},[40,8747,8748],{},"Doomfire Magenta"," contrast over a white undercoat gives an intense, glassy version of the same colour in one pass and is very hard to beat for banners and long robes.",[11,8751,8752,8753,1087,8755,317,8757,8759,8760,8762,8763,8765,8766,8768,8769,376,8771,612,8773,578],{},"Gold should be bright, because Slaanesh's followers are vain. Basecoat ",[40,8754,691],{},[40,8756,559],{},[40,8758,1414],{}," and finish the sharpest edges with ",[40,8761,6260],{},". That silver edge is what turns gold into something reflective rather than merely yellow. Leather and harness go ",[40,8764,371],{}," with an ",[40,8767,1015],{}," edge; pale mortal skin is ",[40,8770,6376],{},[40,8772,1046],{},[40,8774,584],{},[15,8776,8778],{"id":8777},"host-palettes","Host palettes",[11,8780,8781],{},"The three great hosts are a convenient excuse to shift the balance without repainting anything:",[34,8783,8784,8790,8801],{},[37,8785,8786,8789],{},[40,8787,8788],{},"Invaders"," - the standard reading. Pink dominant, lilac flesh, gold trim.",[37,8791,8792,8795,8796,612,8798,8800],{},[40,8793,8794],{},"Pretenders"," - regal and gilded. Swap most of the pink for ",[40,8797,4940],{},[40,8799,4943],{},", and widen the gold.",[37,8802,8803,8806,8807,612,8809,8811,8812,8814],{},[40,8804,8805],{},"Godseekers"," - fast and feverish. Lift the whole palette warmer with ",[40,8808,7254],{},[40,8810,4891],{}," over the cloth, and add ",[40,8813,1370],{}," in the deepest folds of the silks.",[15,8816,8818],{"id":8817},"speed","Speed",[11,8820,8821],{},"This is not a horde army, and that matters. Units are small, the sculpts are open and easy to reach, and daemon flesh takes washes cleanly. Against that, the gold is a genuine time sink - four steps on a Painbringer with full plate is slow work. Painting the daemons first will get you a playable force quickly while you take your time over the mortals.",[15,8823,66],{"id":65},[34,8825,8826,8832,8838,8844],{},[37,8827,8828,8831],{},[40,8829,8830],{},"Keep the flesh cool."," Lilac against hot pink is the engine of the scheme; a warm skin tone kills it.",[37,8833,8834,8837],{},[40,8835,8836],{},"Silver-edge the gold."," One thin line does more than an extra gold layer.",[37,8839,8840,8843],{},[40,8841,8842],{},"Two loud colours, no more."," Pink and gold, with black and lilac carrying everything else.",[37,8845,8846,8849],{},[40,8847,8848],{},"Gloss the claws."," A selective gloss varnish on claws and hooves reads as polished chitin and costs nothing.",[11,8851,8852,8853,8856],{},"Balance the pink against your gold in the ",[774,8854,1265],{"href":8855},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=c4568d"," before starting a full host.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":8858},[8859,8860,8861,8862,8863,8864],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":8682,"depth":89,"text":8683},{"id":8732,"depth":89,"text":8733},{"id":8777,"depth":89,"text":8778},{"id":8817,"depth":89,"text":8818},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Hedonites of Slaanesh - lilac daemonette flesh, hot pink and magenta silks, and mirror-bright gold, with host palettes and advice on keeping a loud scheme controlled.","Hedonites of Slaanesh","#c4568d","Lilac flesh, hot pink silks and mirror gold",{},"/factions/hedonites-of-slaanesh",{"title":8669,"description":8865},"factions/hedonites-of-slaanesh","wVIVQS1bacKo_bQ-xBUYr1rjfMF06p5Hff96OJlAsPQ",{"id":8875,"title":8876,"body":8877,"date":507,"description":9069,"extension":98,"faction":9070,"heroImage":510,"hex":9071,"intro":9072,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":9073,"navigation":104,"path":9074,"seo":9075,"stem":9076,"system":1667,"__hash__":9077},"factions/factions/helsmiths-of-hashut.md","How to Paint Helsmiths of Hashut",{"type":8,"value":8878,"toc":9062},[8879,8882,8884,8887,8891,8919,8934,8968,8972,8975,9009,9019,9021,9024,9026,9055],[11,8880,8881],{},"The Helsmiths are the duardin who worship the Father of Darkness, and everything about them is forge and furnace. Blackened iron, heavy brass, bull motifs and metal still hot from the crucible. It is a metallic army, which makes it far more forgiving than it looks - dark metal hides a multitude of sins - with one showpiece technique, the molten glow, that repays the effort you put into it.",[15,8883,18],{"id":17},[11,8885,8886],{},"Soot-darkened plate over deep red cloth, brass masks and bull-horn ornament, braided beards so dark they read blue-black, and glowing orange metal at the seams of weapons, engines and forge-braziers. The palette is nearly monochrome until the glow arrives, which is exactly why the glow works.",[15,8888,8890],{"id":8889},"blackened-iron-and-brass","Blackened iron and brass",[545,8892,8893,8898,8904,8911],{},[37,8894,8895,8896,578],{},"Undercoat black and basecoat armour ",[40,8897,1144],{},[37,8899,8900,8901,8903],{},"Wash the whole plate with ",[40,8902,356],{},", then a second thinned coat in the recesses only - this is what turns steel into blackened iron.",[37,8905,1516,8906,8908,8909,578],{},[40,8907,5036],{},", and touch the very sharpest corners with ",[40,8910,410],{},[37,8912,5063,8913,8915,8916,8918],{},[40,8914,1151],{}," at the rivets and along the lower plates, then dab tiny points of ",[40,8917,1155],{}," into it.",[11,8920,8921,8922,302,8924,8926,8927,1567,8929,612,8931,8933],{},"Brass carries the identity. Basecoat masks, horns and trim with ",[40,8923,1563],{},[40,8925,6977],{},", shade heavily with ",[40,8928,559],{},[40,8930,1573],{},[40,8932,1570],{}," on the raised bull faces. Keep it warm and slightly tarnished - a mirror-bright gold would look like a different army entirely.",[11,8935,8936,8937,1903,8939,2870,8941,8943,8944,4885,8946,8948,8949,8951,8952,8954,8955,376,8957,612,8959,8961,8962,1387,8965,8967],{},"Cloth is deep red: ",[40,8938,375],{},[40,8940,356],{},[40,8942,441],{}," on the raised folds. Beards go ",[40,8945,371],{},[40,8947,1015],{}," on the braids and drybrushed ",[40,8950,1019],{},", with a final glaze of thinned ",[40,8953,6453],{}," if you want that blue-black sheen. The little visible skin takes ",[40,8956,1041],{},[40,8958,1046],{},[40,8960,1056],{},". Hobgrot Vandalz are the colour relief in the list - ",[40,8963,8964],{},"Hobgrot Hide",[40,8966,559],{}," does their skin in two coats.",[15,8969,8971],{"id":8970},"the-molten-glow","The molten glow",[11,8973,8974],{},"This is the signature effect and it belongs in three places: weapon seams, the mouths of engines, and cracked ground on the bases.",[545,8976,8977,8983,8988,8996,9004],{},[37,8978,8979,8980,8982],{},"Paint the recess ",[40,8981,371],{},", then work outward from the deepest point.",[37,8984,8985,8987],{},[40,8986,375],{}," across the crack, pulled slightly wider than you think.",[37,8989,8990,8992,8993,8995],{},[40,8991,441],{}," inside that, then ",[40,8994,5119],{}," inside that again.",[37,8997,8998,9000,9001,9003],{},[40,8999,5739],{}," at the core, and a fine line of ",[40,9002,6552],{}," at the very hottest point.",[37,9005,1067,9006,9008],{},[40,9007,5119],{}," onto the surrounding metal so the light appears to spill.",[11,9010,9011,9012,9015,9016,9018],{},"For a fast version, ",[40,9013,9014],{},"Magmadroth Flame"," contrast dropped into black cracks and highlighted with ",[40,9017,5739],{}," gets ninety per cent of the effect in two coats. The glaze onto adjacent surfaces is the step people skip, and it is the step that makes the metal look hot rather than painted orange.",[15,9020,8818],{"id":8817},[11,9022,9023],{},"A Helsmith force is compact - armoured infantry, centaurs and a few large engines - so the model count is low. Basecoat and wash gets you a respectable dark-metal army very quickly, and the extra hours go into the glow and the brass. If you are short of time, do the glow on the war machines and characters only; nobody looks at a rank-and-file weapon seam.",[15,9025,66],{"id":65},[34,9027,9028,9037,9043,9049],{},[37,9029,9030,9033,9034,9036],{},[40,9031,9032],{},"Two washes, not one."," A single ",[40,9035,356],{}," coat leaves steel; the second turns it to iron.",[37,9038,9039,9042],{},[40,9040,9041],{},"Warm your brass."," Under-shaded bronze reads as cheap gold.",[37,9044,9045,9048],{},[40,9046,9047],{},"Glow outward from the hottest point."," Working dark to light in rings keeps the transition clean.",[37,9050,9051,9054],{},[40,9052,9053],{},"Do not glow everything."," Three placements per model is the limit before the effect stops meaning anything.",[11,9056,9057,9058,9061],{},"Try the balance of brass and iron in the ",[774,9059,1265],{"href":9060},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=8a5c2a"," before you commit the cohort.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":9063},[9064,9065,9066,9067,9068],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":8889,"depth":89,"text":8890},{"id":8970,"depth":89,"text":8971},{"id":8817,"depth":89,"text":8818},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Helsmiths of Hashut - blackened iron plate, burnished brass bull-masks and molten metal glow across the Infernal Cohort, Bull Centaurs and their war machines.","Helsmiths of Hashut","#8a5c2a","Blackened iron, burnished brass and molten glow",{},"/factions/helsmiths-of-hashut",{"title":8876,"description":9069},"factions/helsmiths-of-hashut","GqPjSF_l0ZxHP_gViFZHS8jTtq3IbEn0PlbYwtpEoac",{"id":9079,"title":9080,"body":9081,"date":833,"description":9356,"extension":98,"faction":9357,"heroImage":510,"hex":9358,"intro":9359,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":9360,"navigation":104,"path":9361,"seo":9362,"stem":9363,"system":1284,"__hash__":9364},"factions/factions/high-elf-realms.md","How to Paint High Elf Realms",{"type":8,"value":9082,"toc":9348},[9083,9086,9089,9091,9094,9098,9103,9126,9138,9142,9145,9168,9186,9196,9200,9221,9224,9258,9267,9271,9295,9308,9310,9342],[11,9084,9085],{},"High Elves are the tidiest scheme in The Old World, and tidy is the hard kind. There is nowhere to hide: white robes show every brush mark, the blue panels are large and flat, and the gold is on show at close range on almost every model. What you get in return is an army that looks expensive from three feet away, because clean is exactly what nobody manages by accident.",[11,9087,9088],{},"The good news is that the model count is low for a rank-and-flank force and the detail is shallow and crisp, which means thin paint behaves. Work slowly on the first ten spearmen and the technique carries the rest of the army.",[15,9090,18],{"id":17},[11,9092,9093],{},"Off-white robes and cloth shaded blue-grey rather than brown, azure blue on shields, helmet plumes and banner fields, warm gold on trim and ithilmar armour, and a small number of jewel-bright gemstones doing the work of a spot colour. The palette is cool throughout, so any warm shadow reads as dirt - and a dirty High Elf reads as a mistake, not as weathering.",[15,9095,9097],{"id":9096},"the-white-robes","The white robes",[11,9099,540,9100,9102],{},[40,9101,305],{}," - starting from a mid-grey rather than white saves you two coats of white paint and gives the shading something to sit in.",[545,9104,9105,9111,9116,9121],{},[37,9106,9107,9108,9110],{},"Shade the recesses and the base of each fold with thinned ",[40,9109,669],{},", applied only where the cloth folds inwards. A brown wash here is what makes white go ivory and grubby.",[37,9112,567,9113,9115],{},[40,9114,341],{}," across everything except the deepest folds. Two thin coats, and let the first dry properly.",[37,9117,567,9118,9120],{},[40,9119,344],{}," back into the mid-tones if the transition looks too abrupt - optional, and only on characters.",[37,9122,1060,9123,9125],{},[40,9124,348],{}," on the raised edge of each fold and along the top of every panel. Keep this to genuine high points; white everywhere is white nowhere.",[11,9127,9128,9129,9131,9132,9134,9135,9137],{},"For the fast version, undercoat ",[40,9130,301],{}," and give the cloth a single coat of ",[40,9133,7747],{}," contrast. It shades cool, which is exactly what this scheme wants, and one ",[40,9136,348],{}," highlight on top finishes it.",[15,9139,9141],{"id":9140},"azure-blue","Azure blue",[11,9143,9144],{},"The Lothern blue on shields, plumes and banners:",[545,9146,9147,9151,9156,9160],{},[37,9148,549,9149,553],{},[40,9150,5467],{},[37,9152,556,9153,9155],{},[40,9154,669],{}," so the shadows stay blue.",[37,9157,567,9158,8050],{},[40,9159,5487],{},[37,9161,7487,9162,4912,9164,9167],{},[40,9163,2211],{},[40,9165,9166],{},"Etherium Blue"," catch on the corner of a shield boss.",[11,9169,9170,9171,329,9173,317,9175,4642,9178,9180,9181,1325,9183,9185],{},"For a lighter, more turquoise-leaning azure, basecoat ",[40,9172,388],{},[40,9174,305],{},[40,9176,9177],{},"Lothern Blue",[40,9179,676],{}," - brighter, faster, and better suited to Lothern Sea Guard than to a Silver Helm. ",[40,9182,5494],{},[40,9184,301],{}," gets you close in one coat.",[11,9187,9188,9189,376,9191,612,9193,578],{},"Vallejo painters can run the same ramp as Prussian Blue, Royal Blue and Andrea Blue; Army Painter equivalents are ",[40,9190,5500],{},[40,9192,6938],{},[40,9194,9195],{},"Wolf Grey",[15,9197,9199],{"id":9198},"gold-ithilmar-and-gems","Gold, ithilmar and gems",[11,9201,9202,9203,666,9205,9207,9208,9210,9211,9213,9214,1387,9216,1535,9218,9220],{},"Trim, helms and ithilmar plate: ",[40,9204,1409],{},[40,9206,1046],{}," rather than a brown wash - it keeps the gold warm instead of muddy - then layer ",[40,9209,1414],{}," and put the smallest possible catch of ",[40,9212,6260],{}," on the sharpest corners. For a paler, silvery ithilmar, use ",[40,9215,5036],{},[40,9217,356],{},[40,9219,410],{}," edges.",[11,9222,9223],{},"Gemstones are the spot colour, and they are two minutes of work each:",[34,9225,9226,9239,9249],{},[37,9227,9228,9229,6302,9231,6305,9233,9235,9236,9238],{},"Red - ",[40,9230,375],{},[40,9232,385],{},[40,9234,1370],{}," at the lower edge, a single ",[40,9237,348],{}," dot at the upper corner, then gloss varnish.",[37,9240,9241,9242,376,9244,376,9246,9248],{},"Blue - ",[40,9243,379],{},[40,9245,5467],{},[40,9247,5487],{},", same dot.",[37,9250,9251,9252,376,9254,376,9256,9248],{},"Green - ",[40,9253,312],{},[40,9255,320],{},[40,9257,324],{},[11,9259,9260,376,9262,612,9264,9266],{},[40,9261,400],{},[40,9263,406],{},[40,9265,403],{}," over a silver basecoat do the same job in one coat if you have a lot of gems to get through.",[15,9268,9270],{"id":9269},"faking-non-metallic-metal","Faking non-metallic metal",[11,9272,9273,9274,376,9276,376,9278,1381,9280,9282,9283,5129,9286,612,9289,9291,9292,9294],{},"High Elf gold suits the painted-metal look because the surfaces are large and flat. You do not need full non-metallic technique to get most of the effect: ramp ",[40,9275,552],{},[40,9277,570],{},[40,9279,577],{},[40,9281,348],{}," stripe on the topmost edge, keeping every transition sharp and placing the brightest line on one side only. For steel, run ",[40,9284,9285],{},"Dark Reaper",[40,9287,9288],{},"Thunderhawk Blue",[40,9290,1311],{}," to a ",[40,9293,348],{}," edge. Pick one light source and stick to it across the whole model.",[11,9296,9297,9298,376,9300,9302,9303,1607,9305,9307],{},"Skin should stay pale and cool: ",[40,9299,6376],{},[40,9301,1046],{},", then back up to ",[40,9304,584],{},[40,9306,1063],{}," touch on the lips.",[15,9309,66],{"id":65},[34,9311,9312,9318,9324,9330,9336],{},[37,9313,9314,9317],{},[40,9315,9316],{},"Never shade white with a brown wash."," It goes instantly to old parchment. Blue-grey shadow is the whole difference between marble and canvas.",[37,9319,9320,9323],{},[40,9321,9322],{},"Two thin coats of white, always."," One thick coat leaves ridges that no highlight will rescue, and white is the least forgiving paint you own.",[37,9325,9326,9329],{},[40,9327,9328],{},"Let the blue be the smaller area."," White dominant, blue as panels and plumes, gold as line work. Reversing that ratio makes them look like a different army.",[37,9331,9332,9335],{},[40,9333,9334],{},"One dot per gem."," Two dots and it stops reading as a reflection.",[37,9337,9338,9341],{},[40,9339,9340],{},"Keep the bases clean and pale too."," Stone, sand or grass - churned mud undoes an hour of careful white.",[11,9343,9344,9345,8572],{},"Try the balance of white, azure and gold in the ",[774,9346,1265],{"href":9347},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=4a86c8",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":9349},[9350,9351,9352,9353,9354,9355],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":9096,"depth":89,"text":9097},{"id":9140,"depth":89,"text":9141},{"id":9198,"depth":89,"text":9199},{"id":9269,"depth":89,"text":9270},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint High Elf Realms for The Old World - clean white robes shaded cool, Lothern azure blue, warm gold trim and jewel-bright gemstones, with a non-metallic option for the trim.","High Elf Realms","#4a86c8","White robes, azure blue and gold, kept clean and crisp",{},"/factions/high-elf-realms",{"title":9080,"description":9356},"factions/high-elf-realms","8MTTzxwWseCWK5q3JkNrjKurge4l6qurO1FZ1txe1ok",{"id":9366,"title":9367,"body":9368,"date":833,"description":9642,"extension":98,"faction":9643,"heroImage":510,"hex":9644,"intro":9645,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":9646,"navigation":104,"path":9647,"seo":9648,"stem":9649,"system":842,"__hash__":9650},"factions/factions/house-cawdor.md","How to Paint House Cawdor",{"type":8,"value":9369,"toc":9631},[9370,9373,9376,9378,9381,9385,9391,9424,9437,9452,9455,9476,9479,9483,9495,9499,9502,9533,9542,9546,9561,9586,9598,9600],[11,9371,9372],{},"Cawdor are the largest gang range in Necromunda and the most rewarding to paint badly on purpose. Everything about them is patched, scavenged, stained and mended: robes over rags over armour, weapons welded from three other weapons, brass icons wired on with whatever came to hand. Neatness is not the goal here. If a wash pools, that is grime. If a highlight is uneven, that is a worn patch. The scheme absorbs mistakes the way a Van Saar bodyglove absolutely will not.",[11,9374,9375],{},"They are also almost entirely cloth, which means one recipe covers most of the model.",[15,9377,18],{"id":17},[11,9379,9380],{},"Dirty ochre - a warm mustard-brown, never a clean yellow - across the robes, with two or three contrasting patches per fighter so the cloth reads as a patchwork. Faces are hidden behind masks and hoods, so the mask becomes the focal point. Metal is scavenged and rusted rather than maintained. Brass icons, candles and burning censers give you the small hits of light that stop a brown model going flat.",[15,9382,9384],{"id":9383},"the-ochre-robes","The ochre robes",[11,9386,9387,9388,9390],{},"Undercoat black for a deeper, filthier result, or ",[40,9389,301],{}," if you intend to take the contrast route below.",[545,9392,9393,9399,9405,9411,9416],{},[37,9394,549,9395,9398],{},[40,9396,9397],{},"Zamesi Desert",", two thin coats. Over black this will need the second coat, and possibly a patchy third on the folds - do not fight it, the unevenness helps.",[37,9400,9401,9402,9404],{},"Shade heavily with ",[40,9403,559],{}," and let it pool in the creases. Where a robe hem meets the ground, let it pool harder still.",[37,9406,9407,9408,9410],{},"Add a second, smaller shade pass of ",[40,9409,563],{}," into the deepest folds and around the hem. This warms the shadows and stops the brown going grey.",[37,9412,567,9413,9415],{},[40,9414,9397],{}," back onto the raised folds, following the direction of the cloth.",[37,9417,1060,9418,9420,9421,9423],{},[40,9419,590],{}," on the top edges of each fold, then ",[40,9422,570],{}," on the sharpest creases and the shoulders only.",[11,9425,9426,9427,376,9429,9431,9432,1387,9434,9436],{},"For the patches, pick two or three panels per fighter and paint them a different colour entirely: ",[40,9428,712],{},[40,9430,598],{},", or a faded red in ",[40,9433,375],{},[40,9435,559],{},". Different panels on different models. This one step is what separates a Cawdor gang from a pile of identical brown monks.",[11,9438,7492,9439,9442,9443,9445,9446,1535,9449,9451],{},[40,9440,9441],{},"Yellow Ochre"," shaded and highlighted with ",[40,9444,608],{},"; Army Painter Fanatic offers ",[40,9447,9448],{},"Prairie Ochre",[40,9450,622],{}," on top.",[9453,9454,629],"h3",{"id":628},[11,9456,540,9457,9459,9460,9462,9463,9465,9466,9468,9469,9471,9472,9475],{},[40,9458,301],{}," and give the robes one coat of ",[40,9461,646],{}," contrast. It is almost exactly the right colour and it settles into the sculpted folds beautifully. ",[40,9464,642],{}," gives a dustier, paler result if you want a sun-bleached ash-wastes look, and ",[40,9467,638],{}," is paler still. Highlight the top edges with ",[40,9470,570],{}," and stop. The Army Painter equivalent is ",[40,9473,9474],{},"Ochre Clay"," speedpaint.",[11,9477,9478],{},"On a gang this size - and Cawdor gangs run large - this route is genuinely the difference between playing next month and playing next year.",[15,9480,9482],{"id":9481},"redemptionists-and-red","Redemptionists and red",[11,9484,9485,9486,666,9488,317,9490,7079,9492,9494],{},"The Redemptionist fighters in the range share the house palette but push the red much further. Base ",[40,9487,375],{},[40,9489,559],{},[40,9491,441],{},[40,9493,385],{},". Keep the red to hoods, sashes and the fire-bearing zealots so it still reads as an accent against the ochre rather than a second uniform.",[15,9496,9498],{"id":9497},"scavenged-metal","Scavenged metal",[11,9500,9501],{},"Nothing a Cawdor carries was made for them.",[545,9503,9504,9508,9517,9522,9527],{},[37,9505,549,9506,578],{},[40,9507,1144],{},[37,9509,9510,9511,9513,9514,9516],{},"Wash with ",[40,9512,356],{},", then a patchy second wash of ",[40,9515,559],{}," over parts of it - inconsistent metal looks scavenged.",[37,9518,5063,9519,9521],{},[40,9520,1151],{}," around rivets, welds and barrel ends.",[37,9523,722,9524,9526],{},[40,9525,1155],{}," over the corrosion, sparingly.",[37,9528,9529,9530,9532],{},"Bring back a few bright points with ",[40,9531,410],{}," on blade edges and the worn faces of hammers - the parts that get used stay clean.",[11,9534,9535,9536,9538,9539,578],{},"Vallejo painters can use ",[40,9537,1886],{}," shaded and edged with ",[40,9540,9541],{},"Natural Steel",[15,9543,9545],{"id":9544},"icons-candles-and-flame","Icons, candles and flame",[11,9547,9548,9549,666,9551,317,9553,9555,9556,9558,9559,1077],{},"The brass and gold devotional pieces are the eye-catchers. Base ",[40,9550,1563],{},[40,9552,559],{},[40,9554,698],{},", and put a spot of ",[40,9557,1414],{}," on the very edge of the largest icon only. For a richer look on a leader, start from ",[40,9560,1409],{},[11,9562,9563,9564,9566,9567,9569,9570,9572,9573,9576,9577,9579,9580,9582,9583,9585],{},"Candles: ",[40,9565,570],{}," wax highlighted ",[40,9568,577],{},", with a thin ",[40,9571,559],{}," streak down one side for old drips. The flame goes ",[40,9574,9575],{},"Jokaero Orange"," at the base, ",[40,9578,456],{}," through the middle, ",[40,9581,6552],{}," near the tip and a tiny ",[40,9584,348],{}," core. Gloss varnish the wax drips and leave the flame matt.",[11,9587,9588,9589,376,9591,376,9593,376,9595,9597],{},"Parchment scraps and prayer strips: ",[40,9590,552],{},[40,9592,559],{},[40,9594,570],{},[40,9596,577],{}," - the standard Imperial recipe, and Cawdor are covered in them.",[15,9599,66],{"id":65},[34,9601,9602,9607,9613,9619,9625],{},[37,9603,9604,9606],{},[40,9605,6163],{}," On most gangs pooling is a fault. Here it is exactly the texture you want.",[37,9608,9609,9612],{},[40,9610,9611],{},"Break up the ochre."," Two or three off-colour patches per fighter. Without them the gang reads as one flat brown mass at arm's length.",[37,9614,9615,9618],{},[40,9616,9617],{},"Mask, then everything else."," The mask is where the eye lands. Paint it carefully even if the rest is speedpainted.",[37,9620,9621,9624],{},[40,9622,9623],{},"Do not clean the metal."," Uniform, evenly-highlighted steel is the one thing that will make Cawdor look wrong.",[37,9626,9627,9630],{},[40,9628,9629],{},"One light source per model."," A candle, a censer or a lantern - not all three. The glow only reads if it is the brightest thing there.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":9632},[9633,9634,9638,9639,9640,9641],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":9383,"depth":89,"text":9384,"children":9635},[9636],{"id":628,"depth":9637,"text":629},3,{"id":9481,"depth":89,"text":9482},{"id":9497,"depth":89,"text":9498},{"id":9544,"depth":89,"text":9545},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint House Cawdor for Necromunda - filthy ochre robes and patchwork rags, scavenged rusted metal, brass icons and candle flames, with a one-coat contrast route for the whole gang.","House Cawdor","#B0851F","Filthy ochre rags, scavenged iron and guttering candlelight",{},"/factions/house-cawdor",{"title":9367,"description":9642},"factions/house-cawdor","3eXgyZO8-kLu5an9VWG2Fw32o5QRcy-DvBphA3nlXTE",{"id":9652,"title":9653,"body":9654,"date":833,"description":9867,"extension":98,"faction":9868,"heroImage":510,"hex":9869,"intro":9870,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":9871,"navigation":104,"path":9872,"seo":9873,"stem":9874,"system":842,"__hash__":9875},"factions/factions/house-delaque.md","How to Paint House Delaque",{"type":8,"value":9655,"toc":9859},[9656,9659,9661,9664,9667,9671,9677,9709,9734,9736,9747,9754,9758,9770,9788,9792,9795,9808,9819,9821,9853],[11,9657,9658],{},"Delaque are a gang of about ten models, which changes how you should paint them. There is no batch-painting argument here and no reason to compromise: you can afford to spend an evening on one fighter. The scheme rewards that, because it is built almost entirely on value - a pale coat, a black underlayer, and a bloodless face - with almost no colour to hide behind.",[15,9660,18],{"id":17},[11,9662,9663],{},"A long, pale grey trenchcoat over a matt black bodyglove, worn by a completely hairless figure with grey-white skin and blank, staring eyes. The coat should read as light and slightly cold, not white; the bodyglove should read as genuinely dark, not grey. That separation between the two is the whole scheme. Everything else - a knife, a pistol, a respirator - is small metal detail.",[11,9665,9666],{},"Resist the temptation to warm anything up. Delaque live in the deep levels where nothing has seen a sun lamp in decades.",[15,9668,9670],{"id":9669},"the-pale-grey-coat","The pale grey coat",[11,9672,9673,9674,9676],{},"Undercoat black, then zenithal a light grey or ",[40,9675,305],{}," from above. That undercoat does half the shading for you on a garment this large and this flat.",[545,9678,9679,9684,9693,9698,9703],{},[37,9680,549,9681,9683],{},[40,9682,1019],{},", two thin coats. Straight from the pot it looks too dark for the finished coat - it should, because you are building upwards from here.",[37,9685,9686,9687,9689,9690,9692],{},"Shade the folds with thinned ",[40,9688,356],{},", keeping it in the recesses. If you want the shadows to stay cool rather than sooty, use ",[40,9691,669],{}," instead; it suits Delaque better than it suits almost anything else.",[37,9694,567,9695,9697],{},[40,9696,1311],{}," over the raised cloth, leaving the shade colour in the creases and along the hem.",[37,9699,9700,9701,578],{},"Highlight the top edges and fold peaks with ",[40,9702,341],{},[37,9704,9705,9706,9708],{},"On the sharpest points only - collar corners, shoulder ridges, the front edge of the coat - a fine line of ",[40,9707,348],{},". Two or three per model, no more.",[11,9710,9711,9712,376,9714,376,9717,376,9720,612,9723,616,9726,376,9728,612,9731,9733],{},"Vallejo painters can run the same ramp as ",[40,9713,2593],{},[40,9715,9716],{},"Cold Grey",[40,9718,9719],{},"Stonewall Grey",[40,9721,9722],{},"Ghost Grey",[40,9724,9725],{},"Dead White",[40,9727,2503],{},[40,9729,9730],{},"Castle Grey",[40,9732,2510],{}," for the middle of it.",[15,9735,629],{"id":628},[11,9737,540,9738,9740,9741,9743,9744,9746],{},[40,9739,305],{},", then glaze ",[40,9742,1197],{}," into the recesses of the coat only - not over the whole panel. Wipe the brush and pull the contrast down into the folds so the raised cloth keeps the pale undercoat. One highlight of ",[40,9745,341],{}," on top and the coat is finished in about ten minutes.",[11,9748,9749,9750,9753],{},"For a cooler, more blue-grey coat, ",[40,9751,9752],{},"Space Wolves Grey"," does the same job in one coat and looks striking against black. This is also the sensible route if you are painting a second gang or a pile of hangers-on.",[15,9755,9757],{"id":9756},"bodygloves-leather-and-metal","Bodygloves, leather and metal",[11,9759,9760,9761,9763,9764,9766,9767,9769],{},"The bodyglove has to stay dark or the coat stops reading as pale. Basecoat ",[40,9762,371],{},", then edge-highlight with ",[40,9765,1015],{}," and stop there. If you want a hint of sheen on the tighter panels, add a very thin ",[40,9768,1019],{}," catch on the knees and shoulders. Do not drybrush the bodyglove - the coat is the light source in this scheme.",[11,9771,9772,9773,1387,9775,357,9777,9779,9780,692,9782,9784,9785,9787],{},"Straps, holsters and boots: ",[40,9774,712],{},[40,9776,559],{},[40,9778,725],{},". Blades and pistols in ",[40,9781,1144],{},[40,9783,356],{},", with a ",[40,9786,410],{}," edge on the cutting surface. Delaque weapons are silenced, exotic and usually small, so keep the metals dark and cool rather than bright.",[15,9789,9791],{"id":9790},"heads-eyes-and-skin","Heads, eyes and skin",[11,9793,9794],{},"The bald pallid head is what makes a Delaque model unmistakable, and it takes five minutes.",[11,9796,549,9797,1564,9799,9801,9802,9804,9805,9807],{},[40,9798,6376],{},[40,9800,4884],{}," rather than a brown wash - the purple keeps the skin looking bloodless and sunless. Layer ",[40,9803,584],{}," across the crown, cheekbones and nose, then a final touch of ",[40,9806,577],{}," on the brow and the top of the skull.",[11,9809,9810,9811,9813,9814,302,9816,9818],{},"The eyes are the trick. Delaque eyes read as blank white discs, not as normal pupilled eyes. Fill the whole socket with ",[40,9812,371],{},", then paint a solid oval of ",[40,9815,1132],{},[40,9817,348],{}," over it, leaving a thin black border all round. No pupil, no iris. Getting both eyes the same size matters far more than getting them small.",[15,9820,66],{"id":65},[34,9822,9823,9829,9835,9841,9847],{},[37,9824,9825,9828],{},[40,9826,9827],{},"Do not paint the coat white."," The finished garment should sit around a mid-to-light grey with white only on the sharpest edges. A white coat loses every fold.",[37,9830,9831,9834],{},[40,9832,9833],{},"Keep the shadows cool."," Brown or sepia anywhere on the cloth immediately makes Delaque look like scruffy Van Saar.",[37,9836,9837,9840],{},[40,9838,9839],{},"Black stays black."," The commonest failure is highlighting the bodyglove until it is the same value as the coat, at which point the silhouette collapses.",[37,9842,9843,9846],{},[40,9844,9845],{},"One warm accent, deliberately placed."," A red lens, a brass buckle or a single ganger's rust-brown glove gives the eye somewhere to land on an otherwise monochrome model.",[37,9848,9849,9852],{},[40,9850,9851],{},"Thin your greys hard."," Pale greys are chalky and streaky at pot consistency, and streaks show badly across a coat this large.",[11,9854,5926,9855,9858],{},[774,9856,822],{"href":9857},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=8A93A0"," to swap paints between brands or push the coat cooler.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":9860},[9861,9862,9863,9864,9865,9866],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":9669,"depth":89,"text":9670},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":9756,"depth":89,"text":9757},{"id":9790,"depth":89,"text":9791},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint House Delaque for Necromunda - the pale grey trenchcoat recipe from basecoat to edge highlight, black bodygloves, bald pallid heads and blank white eyes.","House Delaque","#8A93A0","Pale grey coats, black bodygloves and hairless, hollow-eyed informants",{},"/factions/house-delaque",{"title":9653,"description":9867},"factions/house-delaque","91XUE-gniUo7vU5fNVxFf6EKn0FK50mXv8ix8SmV9tw",{"id":9877,"title":9878,"body":9879,"date":833,"description":10145,"extension":98,"faction":10146,"heroImage":510,"hex":10147,"intro":10148,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":10149,"navigation":104,"path":10150,"seo":10151,"stem":10152,"system":842,"__hash__":10153},"factions/factions/house-escher.md","How to Paint House Escher",{"type":8,"value":9880,"toc":10136},[9881,9884,9887,9889,9892,9896,9899,9934,9955,9957,9973,9976,9980,9986,10027,10030,10032,10060,10075,10093,10102,10104],[11,9882,9883],{},"An Escher gang is ten or twelve fighters, not a hundred, and that changes everything about how you should approach them. There is no batch to grind through and no reason to compromise. You can afford three highlight steps on a bodysuit, a different hair colour on every model, and an afternoon on the leader. Necromunda rewards that: these are individuals with names, and they get looked at closely across a table two feet wide.",[11,9885,9886],{},"The scheme itself is also unusually forgiving. Acid green, neon hair and pale skin are three loud colours that do not fight each other, and the bodysuits are smooth curved surfaces - the easiest thing in the hobby to highlight cleanly.",[15,9888,18],{"id":17},[11,9890,9891],{},"A vivid, slightly yellowed acid green covering most of the body, broken by black or dark leather straps, harnesses and boots. Skin is pale to the point of unhealthy - these are chem-alchemists who live around toxins. Hair is the accent: pink, violet, orange or electric blue, deliberately artificial, and usually the brightest thing on the model. Weapons and buckles are bare steel rather than gold; Escher are not a wealthy house.",[15,9893,9895],{"id":9894},"the-acid-green-bodysuit","The acid-green bodysuit",[11,9897,9898],{},"Undercoat black. The green ramp reads much richer over a dark base than over white, and the straps and boots are then already done.",[545,9900,9901,9906,9911,9917,9922],{},[37,9902,549,9903,9905],{},[40,9904,312],{},", two thin coats. It will look almost black at this stage - that is correct, it is a shadow colour, not the finished green.",[37,9907,567,9908,9910],{},[40,9909,320],{}," over everything except the deepest recesses and the underside of each limb. This is the colour people will read as \"Escher green\".",[37,9912,9913,9914,9916],{},"Shade only the panel lines and the creases at hips, elbows and knees with ",[40,9915,316],{},". Do not wash the whole model; the green is meant to stay clean and bright.",[37,9918,567,9919,9921],{},[40,9920,324],{}," on the upper surfaces - the top of the thighs, the front of the shins, the shoulders and the tops of the forearms.",[37,9923,9924,9925,9927,9928,9930,9931,9933],{},"Edge-highlight the sharpest boundaries with ",[40,9926,324],{}," mixed roughly two-to-one with ",[40,9929,456],{},". On a leader, add a final thin catch of pure ",[40,9932,6552],{}," on two or three edges only.",[11,9935,9936,9937,376,9940,612,9943,9946,9947,442,9949,442,9952,578],{},"Vallejo Game Color takes the same ramp with ",[40,9938,9939],{},"Sick Green",[40,9941,9942],{},"Scorpy Green",[40,9944,9945],{},"Livery Green"," on top. The nearest Army Painter Fanatic run is ",[40,9948,8407],{},[40,9950,9951],{},"Greenskin",[40,9953,9954],{},"Ferocious Green",[9453,9956,629],{"id":628},[11,9958,540,9959,9961,9962,9965,9966,9968,9969,9972],{},[40,9960,301],{},", then one coat of ",[40,9963,9964],{},"Warp Lightning"," contrast over the bodysuit. It gives you shading and colour in a single pass, and the acid-yellow bias of that paint is genuinely close to the studio scheme. Tidy the panel edges with ",[40,9967,324],{}," and the model is table-ready in about fifteen minutes. The Army Painter equivalent is ",[40,9970,9971],{},"Absolution Green"," speedpaint over a bone primer.",[11,9974,9975],{},"If you want the contrast finish to hold up next to a hand-painted leader, add the one step people skip: a single edge highlight. It costs five minutes and doubles the apparent effort.",[15,9977,9979],{"id":9978},"hair-the-other-half-of-the-scheme","Hair, the other half of the scheme",[11,9981,9982,9983,9985],{},"Neon hair over green needs a light foundation or it goes muddy. Basecoat the hair ",[40,9984,305],{}," first, then run one of these:",[34,9987,9988,9998,10010,10017],{},[37,9989,9990,9991,1918,9993,9995,9996,578],{},"For pink hair, ",[40,9992,7254],{},[40,9994,4891],{},". Contrast route: ",[40,9997,6526],{},[37,9999,10000,10001,442,10003,695,10005,9995,10007,578],{},"For violet, ",[40,10002,4940],{},[40,10004,4946],{},[40,10006,4950],{},[40,10008,10009],{},"Magos Purple",[37,10011,10012,10013,442,10015,578],{},"For orange, ",[40,10014,5119],{},[40,10016,5739],{},[37,10018,10019,10020,442,10022,10024,10025,578],{},"For electric blue, ",[40,10021,9177],{},[40,10023,676],{},", with a final catch of ",[40,10026,4902],{},[11,10028,10029],{},"Give each fighter a different one and keep the green identical across the gang. That is what makes ten models look like a gang rather than ten unrelated miniatures.",[15,10031,5817],{"id":5816},[11,10033,10034,10035,10037,10038,10040,10041,10043,10044,1906,10046,10048,10049,442,10052,10055,10056,10059],{},"Pale skin: ",[40,10036,6376],{}," basecoat, a thinned ",[40,10039,1046],{}," or a glaze of ",[40,10042,1190],{}," in the eye sockets and under the jaw, layer ",[40,10045,584],{},[40,10047,577],{}," on the nose, cheekbones and knuckles. Vallejo painters can run ",[40,10050,10051],{},"Pale Flesh",[40,10053,10054],{},"Elfic Flesh","; ",[40,10057,10058],{},"Dead Flesh"," pushes it further towards chem-sick if you want a Death-maiden to look genuinely wrong.",[11,10061,10062,10063,1903,10065,10067,10068,10070,10071,442,10073,578],{},"Straps, boots and harness: ",[40,10064,371],{},[40,10066,1015],{}," on the raised folds, a fine ",[40,10069,1019],{}," edge. Brown leather instead works well as a break from all the black - ",[40,10072,712],{},[40,10074,725],{},[11,10076,10077,10078,10080,10081,345,10083,10085,10086,10088,10089,1387,10091,578],{},"Weapons: ",[40,10079,1144],{},", a wash of ",[40,10082,356],{},[40,10084,5036],{}," on the edges and ",[40,10087,410],{}," on barrel lips and blade edges. Keep gold to the odd buckle in ",[40,10090,1409],{},[40,10092,559],{},[11,10094,10095,10096,302,10098,10101],{},"Toxin vials, needle rifles and chem-throwers are the one place to be indulgent: ",[40,10097,406],{},[40,10099,10100],{},"Tesseract Glow"," technical paint over a light base gives an instant glowing fluid, and a spot of gloss varnish sells it.",[15,10103,66],{"id":65},[34,10105,10106,10112,10118,10124,10130],{},[37,10107,10108,10111],{},[40,10109,10110],{},"Do not wash the whole bodysuit."," A full coat of green shade drops the saturation right out of the scheme and Escher live on saturation. Recesses only.",[37,10113,10114,10117],{},[40,10115,10116],{},"Vary the hair, never the green."," The temptation is to make each fighter different all over. Resist it - one shared bodysuit colour is what identifies the house.",[37,10119,10120,10123],{},[40,10121,10122],{},"Pale skin is a ramp, not a colour."," Straight bone-coloured flesh with no shading looks like unpainted plastic. The wash in the sockets is what makes it read as skin.",[37,10125,10126,10129],{},[40,10127,10128],{},"Keep the metal dull."," Bright, clean steel next to acid green flattens both. Nuln Oil generously, highlight sparingly.",[37,10131,10132,10135],{},[40,10133,10134],{},"Paint the hair before the final green highlight"," if you are messy with bright colours - it is far easier to tidy the hairline with green than the other way round.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":10137},[10138,10139,10142,10143,10144],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":9894,"depth":89,"text":9895,"children":10140},[10141],{"id":628,"depth":9637,"text":629},{"id":9978,"depth":89,"text":9979},{"id":5816,"depth":89,"text":5817},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint House Escher for Necromunda - the acid-green bodysuit recipe from basecoat to edge highlight, neon hair, pale chem-bleached skin, and a one-coat contrast route for a whole gang.","House Escher","#3FA34D","Acid-green bodysuits, neon hair and pale chem-bleached skin",{},"/factions/house-escher",{"title":9878,"description":10145},"factions/house-escher","ZDaIy0f2chkGGxDk5pyOuRCX2dt5ljTdeEYhoIxgO4A",{"id":10155,"title":10156,"body":10157,"date":833,"description":10421,"extension":98,"faction":10422,"heroImage":510,"hex":10423,"intro":10424,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":10425,"navigation":104,"path":10426,"seo":10427,"stem":10428,"system":842,"__hash__":10429},"factions/factions/house-goliath.md","How to Paint House Goliath",{"type":8,"value":10158,"toc":10413},[10159,10162,10165,10167,10170,10174,10177,10208,10223,10235,10239,10251,10259,10263,10266,10297,10322,10332,10336,10339,10369,10379,10381],[11,10160,10161],{},"Goliaths are mostly skin. On a typical ganger, bare flesh covers more surface than anything else on the model - chest, arms, shoulders, half the legs - so the flesh recipe is not a detail step you do at the end, it is the paint job. Get that right and the rest is trim.",[11,10163,10164],{},"That is good news for a new painter, because those muscle slabs are large, smooth and heavily sculpted. Every bicep and pectoral has a clear high point and a clear crease, which means a wash and one layer does most of the work that would take blending on a flat surface.",[15,10166,18],{"id":17},[11,10168,10169],{},"Pale, cold, slightly grey-pink flesh - vat-grown rather than sunburnt - on enormous exaggerated musculature. Against that sits burnt orange: trousers, aprons, straps and leathers in a rusty, low-saturation orange rather than a traffic-cone one. Metal is dark, heavy and abused. The whole gang should look industrial, like something forged in the same foundry as their weapons.",[15,10171,10173],{"id":10172},"the-flesh","The flesh",[11,10175,10176],{},"Undercoat grey or white. A black undercoat fights you on pale skin.",[545,10178,10179,10184,10192,10197,10202],{},[37,10180,549,10181,10183],{},[40,10182,6376],{},", two thin coats. Thin them properly - flesh is the largest area on the model and brush marks will show.",[37,10185,1790,10186,10188,10189,10191],{},[40,10187,1046],{},". If you want the colder, more corpse-like studio look, use ",[40,10190,559],{}," instead; it kills the pink and reads as grime.",[37,10193,567,10194,10196],{},[40,10195,584],{}," across the raised muscle, leaving the shade in every crease and under every overhang.",[37,10198,1060,10199,10201],{},[40,10200,577],{}," on the very top of the shoulders, the brow, the collarbones and the knuckles. Keep it to the top third of each muscle.",[37,10203,10204,10205,10207],{},"Optional but worth it: a thin glaze of ",[40,10206,1041],{}," into the elbows, knees, nose and ears. A little blood flush at the joints stops the whole figure looking like grey plastic.",[11,10209,10210,10211,442,10213,10215,10216,10218,10219,10222],{},"Vallejo Game Color runs the same ramp as ",[40,10212,10051],{},[40,10214,10054],{},", and Army Painter Fanatic as ",[40,10217,1217],{}," shaded and layered up with ",[40,10220,10221],{},"Necrotic Flesh"," for the sicklier fighters.",[11,10224,10225,5746,10227,5749,10229,10231,10232,10234],{},[40,10226,5745],{},[40,10228,301],{},[40,10230,1187],{}," contrast, then re-highlight the top of each muscle with ",[40,10233,584],{},". Two steps, and on musculature this pronounced the contrast paint pools exactly where you would have shaded anyway.",[15,10236,10238],{"id":10237},"tattoos-and-chem-scars","Tattoos and chem scars",[11,10240,10241,10242,302,10244,10246,10247,10250],{},"Goliath skin is a canvas. Thin ",[40,10243,379],{},[40,10245,352],{}," heavily with medium and paint simple block shapes - bars, skulls, house sigils - onto the shoulders and forearms, then glaze once more over the top with your flesh highlight so the tattoo sits ",[2334,10248,10249],{},"in"," the skin rather than on it. Keep the designs crude; these are prison tattoos, not fine art.",[11,10252,10253,10254,302,10256,10258],{},"Chem-tanks and injector rigs take ",[40,10255,406],{},[40,10257,10100],{}," over a light base for a lurid, obviously-not-medical fluid.",[15,10260,10262],{"id":10261},"orange-trousers-and-leathers","Orange trousers and leathers",[11,10264,10265],{},"Orange pigments are transparent, so the base underneath matters more than usual.",[545,10267,10268,10273,10278,10287,10292],{},[37,10269,549,10270,10272],{},[40,10271,453],{}," over the primer. This does the covering so the orange does not have to.",[37,10274,549,10275,10277],{},[40,10276,9575],{}," over that, one or two thin coats.",[37,10279,556,10280,10282,10283,10286],{},[40,10281,559],{}," for a dirty, worn orange, or ",[40,10284,10285],{},"Fuegan Orange"," if you want it hotter and cleaner.",[37,10288,567,10289,10291],{},[40,10290,5119],{}," on the raised folds and the tops of the thighs.",[37,10293,1060,10294,10296],{},[40,10295,5739],{}," on the top edges of the folds and the leading edge of any apron or plate.",[11,10298,10299,10300,329,10302,10304,10305,10307,10308,442,10311,10314,10315,1047,10318,10321],{},"Contrast route: ",[40,10301,736],{},[40,10303,301],{}," gives a duller, more leathery orange; ",[40,10306,9014],{}," gives a brighter one. Vallejo painters can use ",[40,10309,10310],{},"Orange Fire",[40,10312,10313],{},"Hot Orange","; Army Painter ",[40,10316,10317],{},"Lava Orange",[40,10319,10320],{},"Fire Giant Orange"," speedpaint for the one-coat version.",[11,10323,10324,10325,442,10327,1607,10329,10331],{},"Where the leather is meant to read as brown rather than orange, ",[40,10326,712],{},[40,10328,725],{},[40,10330,988],{}," edge keeps it in the same warm family.",[15,10333,10335],{"id":10334},"metal-and-weathering","Metal and weathering",[11,10337,10338],{},"Everything a Goliath carries has been hit against something.",[545,10340,10341,10346,10351,10359,10364],{},[37,10342,10343,10345],{},[40,10344,1144],{}," basecoat on blades, plating, chains and gun bodies.",[37,10347,10348,10350],{},[40,10349,356],{}," over all of it, generously.",[37,10352,10353,10354,345,10356,10358],{},"Edge with ",[40,10355,5036],{},[40,10357,410],{}," on the blade edges and hammer faces only.",[37,10360,5063,10361,10363],{},[40,10362,1151],{}," around rivets, seams and the bottom edges of plates.",[37,10365,722,10366,10368],{},[40,10367,1155],{}," lightly over the corrosion, then scrub most of it off with a clean brush. Rust wants to look like it grew there, not like it was painted on.",[11,10370,10371,10372,666,10374,7079,10376,10378],{},"Brass and bronze details - buckles, forge marks, chem-tank fittings - go ",[40,10373,1563],{},[40,10375,559],{},[40,10377,698],{},". That warm metal against the orange keeps the palette coherent.",[15,10380,66],{"id":65},[34,10382,10383,10389,10395,10401,10407],{},[37,10384,10385,10388],{},[40,10386,10387],{},"Thin the flesh basecoat."," It is the single biggest area on the model and the one place thick paint is unmissable.",[37,10390,10391,10394],{},[40,10392,10393],{},"Do not highlight the whole muscle."," Highlight the top surface only. Muscles read as volume because the underside stays dark.",[37,10396,10397,10400],{},[40,10398,10399],{},"Keep the orange muted."," A pure, saturated orange next to pale flesh looks like sportswear. Shade it hard and let the brown come through.",[37,10402,10403,10406],{},[40,10404,10405],{},"Weather from the ground up."," Boots and lower legs dirtiest, chest and shoulders cleanest. Uniform grime everywhere reads as a mistake rather than a choice.",[37,10408,10409,10412],{},[40,10410,10411],{},"Bare metal, not gold."," Goliaths make their own gear in a forge. Bright gold trim belongs to another house entirely.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":10414},[10415,10416,10417,10418,10419,10420],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":10172,"depth":89,"text":10173},{"id":10237,"depth":89,"text":10238},{"id":10261,"depth":89,"text":10262},{"id":10334,"depth":89,"text":10335},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint House Goliath for Necromunda - a pale grey-pink flesh recipe for all that bare muscle, burnt-orange trousers and leathers, battered dark metal and chem-tank details.","House Goliath","#D9611F","Slabs of bare muscle, burnt-orange leathers and battered iron",{},"/factions/house-goliath",{"title":10156,"description":10421},"factions/house-goliath","ydcBbNSzfO4ME5ATOT3YvhO8dsJwirKCL-2yY07ahM0",{"id":10431,"title":10432,"body":10433,"date":833,"description":10703,"extension":98,"faction":10704,"heroImage":510,"hex":10705,"intro":10706,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":10707,"navigation":104,"path":10708,"seo":10709,"stem":10710,"system":842,"__hash__":10711},"factions/factions/house-orlock.md","How to Paint House Orlock",{"type":8,"value":10434,"toc":10693},[10435,10438,10441,10443,10446,10450,10453,10481,10498,10500,10517,10523,10527,10530,10559,10570,10582,10586,10603,10617,10632,10636,10648,10659,10661],[11,10436,10437],{},"Orlock are the House of Iron: miners, haulers and road gangs who work metal for a living and wear the results. The scheme is a rusty brick red over dark gunmetal, wrapped in brown leather - three warm, low-saturation colours that sit very comfortably together and hide a multitude of sins. It is probably the friendliest Necromunda gang for a painter who is still nervous about highlighting, because everything on the model is supposed to be scuffed.",[11,10439,10440],{},"The Outrider quads and their riders make this a gang with vehicles in it, and the same recipe scales straight onto a bike frame without changing anything.",[15,10442,18],{"id":17},[11,10444,10445],{},"A muted rust-red - closer to old brick or oxide primer than to a fire engine - on jackets, tabards and cloth. Underneath and around it, dark gunmetal plating with real wear: chips, rust blooms, scratched edges. Leather in warm brown for belts, boots, straps and gloves. The gang should look like it works for a living and sleeps near the machinery.",[15,10447,10449],{"id":10448},"the-rust-red-jacket","The rust-red jacket",[11,10451,10452],{},"Undercoat black. Red over black gives you the deep, oxidised base this scheme wants.",[545,10454,10455,10460,10465,10470,10475],{},[37,10456,549,10457,10459],{},[40,10458,375],{},", two thin coats. It is a dark, slightly brown red and it is doing the heavy lifting - do not be tempted to start brighter.",[37,10461,1790,10462,10464],{},[40,10463,559],{}," rather than a red wash. The brown in it is what pushes the colour towards rust and away from crimson.",[37,10466,567,10467,10469],{},[40,10468,441],{}," on the raised folds and panels, leaving the shade in every crease.",[37,10471,1060,10472,10474],{},[40,10473,385],{}," along the top edges of the folds, collars and cuffs.",[37,10476,10477,10478,10480],{},"On leaders and champions only, add a final thin catch of ",[40,10479,1370],{}," on two or three edges. Any more and the jacket stops looking worn.",[11,10482,10483,10484,10487,10488,612,10490,10492,10493,442,10495,578],{},"Vallejo Model and Game Color painters can run ",[40,10485,10486],{},"Hull Red"," shaded, then ",[40,10489,5761],{},[40,10491,5764],{}," on top. Army Painter Fanatic offers ",[40,10494,1534],{},[40,10496,10497],{},"Basilisk Red",[9453,10499,629],{"id":628},[11,10501,540,10502,10504,10505,10507,10508,10511,10512,9471,10514,9475],{},[40,10503,301],{},", then a single coat of ",[40,10506,1527],{}," contrast for a bright, blood-red jacket, or ",[40,10509,10510],{},"Gore-grunta Fur"," for a browner, more rusted one - which is much closer to the studio Orlock look. Edge-highlight ",[40,10513,385],{},[40,10515,10516],{},"Burnished Red",[11,10518,10519,10520,10522],{},"Once the reds are down, glaze a very thin ",[40,10521,559],{}," over the lower half of each jacket. That single pass unifies a fast paint job and a careful one.",[15,10524,10526],{"id":10525},"the-gunmetal","The gunmetal",[11,10528,10529],{},"Orlock plate is the second half of the scheme and it should be dark.",[545,10531,10532,10536,10542,10549,10554],{},[37,10533,549,10534,578],{},[40,10535,1144],{},[37,10537,10538,10539,10541],{},"Wash generously with ",[40,10540,356],{}," and let it dry fully.",[37,10543,10353,10544,345,10546,10548],{},[40,10545,5036],{},[40,10547,410],{}," on corners, blade edges and the lips of barrels and exhausts.",[37,10550,5063,10551,10553],{},[40,10552,1151],{}," at rivets, weld seams and the bottom edges of every plate.",[37,10555,722,10556,10558],{},[40,10557,1155],{}," very lightly over the corrosion, then knock most of it back with a clean dry brush.",[11,10560,6926,10561,10563,10564,612,10566,10569],{},[40,10562,1886],{},", edged with ",[40,10565,9541],{},[40,10567,10568],{},"Oily Steel"," for the darker, oilier areas.",[11,10571,10572,10575,10576,10578,10579,10581],{},[40,10573,10574],{},"Chipping."," This is the technique that makes Orlock. Tear a scrap of blister foam, dab it in ",[40,10577,712],{},", wipe nearly all of it off on kitchen roll, then stipple lightly along the edges of plates and the tops of shoulder pads. Once dry, put a tiny dot of ",[40,10580,410],{}," inside the lower edge of the larger chips only. Two colours, ninety seconds, and the armour reads as steel that has been hit rather than plastic that has been painted.",[15,10583,10585],{"id":10584},"leather-and-cloth","Leather and cloth",[11,10587,10588,10589,1903,10591,10593,10594,10596,10597,302,10599,10602],{},"Belts, boots, gloves and bike saddles: ",[40,10590,712],{},[40,10592,725],{}," on the raised areas, a ",[40,10595,988],{}," edge. For variety across the gang, run some pieces darker with a ",[40,10598,1177],{},[40,10600,10601],{},"Cygor Brown"," contrast over bone instead, which gives a drier, older-looking leather.",[11,10604,10605,10606,1387,10608,1390,10610,10612,10613,442,10615,578],{},"Trousers and undershirts break up the red nicely in ",[40,10607,598],{},[40,10609,559],{},[40,10611,590],{},", or in plain ",[40,10614,1015],{},[40,10616,1019],{},[11,10618,10619,10620,376,10622,376,10624,1114,10626,10628,10629,10631],{},"Skin: ",[40,10621,1056],{},[40,10623,1046],{},[40,10625,1063],{},[40,10627,1041],{}," left in the deepest creases. Orlock faces should be weathered and outdoors-looking, so a touch of ",[40,10630,559],{}," stippled at the jawline for stubble works well.",[15,10633,10635],{"id":10634},"bikes-bases-and-grime","Bikes, bases and grime",[11,10637,10638,10639,10641,10642,10644,10645,10647],{},"Outrider quads take the same jacket red on the bodywork, the same chipping on the frame, and one extra step: ",[40,10640,1151],{}," brushed along the underside of the chassis and around the exhausts, then a light drybrush of ",[40,10643,1155],{}," over it. Dust the wheels and the rider's boots with a drybrush of ",[40,10646,590],{}," working upwards from the sole and fading out at the knee.",[11,10649,10650,10651,302,10653,10655,10656,10658],{},"Bases in ",[40,10652,765],{},[40,10654,768],{}," technical paint, drybrushed ",[40,10657,7053],{},", tie the gang to the underhive floor and take five minutes for the lot.",[15,10660,66],{"id":65},[34,10662,10663,10669,10675,10681,10687],{},[37,10664,10665,10668],{},[40,10666,10667],{},"Shade the red with brown, not red."," A red wash gives you a comic-book crimson. Agrax Earthshade gives you oxide.",[37,10670,10671,10674],{},[40,10672,10673],{},"Chip the edges, not the middles."," Damage happens where things collide - corners, rims, the fronts of shoulder pads. Chips scattered across a flat panel look painted on.",[37,10676,10677,10680],{},[40,10678,10679],{},"Keep the rust local."," Rivets, seams and lower edges. A rusty whole model reads as a wreck rather than working kit.",[37,10682,10683,10686],{},[40,10684,10685],{},"Vary the leather."," Two or three brown tones across the gang stop the models blurring into one silhouette at table distance.",[37,10688,10689,10692],{},[40,10690,10691],{},"Do not highlight the red too far."," Bright scarlet everywhere is the single commonest way to lose the Orlock look; the colour should stay dusty.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":10694},[10695,10696,10699,10700,10701,10702],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":10448,"depth":89,"text":10449,"children":10697},[10698],{"id":628,"depth":9637,"text":629},{"id":10525,"depth":89,"text":10526},{"id":10584,"depth":89,"text":10585},{"id":10634,"depth":89,"text":10635},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint House Orlock for Necromunda - rust-red jackets over dark gunmetal plate, worn road-warrior leathers, honest weathering and chipping, plus a contrast route for the gang.","House Orlock","#A63A28","Rust-red jackets over gunmetal, leather and honest road grime",{},"/factions/house-orlock",{"title":10432,"description":10703},"factions/house-orlock","pDKKIzxjdqKL5rXfl6bBMpDERW04zSo0n9tzQEd0IYc",{"id":10713,"title":10714,"body":10715,"date":833,"description":10943,"extension":98,"faction":10944,"heroImage":510,"hex":10945,"intro":10946,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":10947,"navigation":104,"path":10948,"seo":10949,"stem":10950,"system":842,"__hash__":10951},"factions/factions/house-van-saar.md","How to Paint House Van Saar",{"type":8,"value":10716,"toc":10934},[10717,10720,10723,10725,10728,10732,10735,10769,10789,10791,10804,10808,10819,10831,10839,10847,10851,10854,10881,10889,10901,10903],[11,10718,10719],{},"Van Saar are the one Necromunda house you cannot speedpaint your way out of. The bodygloves are smooth, tight-fitting and almost featureless - no folds to catch a wash, no straps to hide a mistake - so every uneven basecoat and every wobbly highlight is on display. The upside is that the scheme is only three colours: a teal-cyan suit, dark panels, and cold metal, with glowing tech as the accent. Once the ramp is decided, each fighter is quick.",[11,10721,10722],{},"They are also the gang where a little object-source lighting pays off more than anywhere else. The whole aesthetic is \"dying men in radiation suits, lit from inside by their own equipment\".",[15,10724,18],{"id":17},[11,10726,10727],{},"A bright cyan-teal bodyglove, darkest in the recesses and almost white at the sharpest edges, with black or dark grey armour panels over it. Metal is clean and cold - these are the most technologically advanced house in the underhive and their gear works. The glow comes from lenses, power packs, rifle coils and grav-rig vents, always in the same cyan family as the suit so the model reads as one light source.",[15,10729,10731],{"id":10730},"the-bodyglove","The bodyglove",[11,10733,10734],{},"Undercoat black. On a curved surface with no folds, the dark undercoat gives you the shadows for free.",[545,10736,10737,10742,10751,10756,10761],{},[37,10738,549,10739,10741],{},[40,10740,8378],{},", two thin coats. Thin is not optional here; a thick coat on a smooth bodyglove is instantly obvious.",[37,10743,10744,10745,10747,10748,10750],{},"Shade the joins, the armpits, the backs of the knees and the panel lines with ",[40,10746,669],{}," for a colder result, or ",[40,10749,8345],{}," for a greener one.",[37,10752,567,10753,10755],{},[40,10754,665],{}," over everything except the recesses. This is the colour the gang will be recognised by.",[37,10757,567,10758,10760],{},[40,10759,672],{}," on the upper surfaces - the front of the thighs, the top of the forearms, the chest and shoulders.",[37,10762,7487,10763,10765,10766,10768],{},[40,10764,676],{}," along the sharpest boundaries, and on a champion add a final fine catch of ",[40,10767,4902],{}," on two or three edges.",[11,10770,10771,10772,442,10775,10778,10779,442,10782,1535,10785,10788],{},"Vallejo Game Color painters can run ",[40,10773,10774],{},"Dark Turquoise",[40,10776,10777],{},"Turquoise","; Army Painter Fanatic gives you ",[40,10780,10781],{},"Talisman Teal",[40,10783,10784],{},"Hydra Turquoise",[40,10786,10787],{},"Turquoise Siren"," on the edges.",[9453,10790,629],{"id":628},[11,10792,540,10793,9961,10795,10797,10798,10800,10801,10803],{},[40,10794,305],{},[40,10796,680],{}," contrast over the bodyglove. For a bluer, colder gang use ",[40,10799,5494],{}," instead. Edge-highlight ",[40,10802,676],{}," and you are done. On a smooth surface contrast paints can dry blotchy, so work in one direction with a loaded brush and do not go back over a drying patch.",[15,10805,10807],{"id":10806},"panels-metal-and-cabling","Panels, metal and cabling",[11,10809,10810,10811,1903,10813,10815,10816,10818],{},"Armour plates and the hard shells over shoulders and shins: ",[40,10812,371],{},[40,10814,1015],{}," on the raised areas, a fine ",[40,10817,1019],{}," edge. Keeping these genuinely dark is what makes the cyan look bright.",[11,10820,10821,10822,1087,10824,7079,10826,345,10828,10830],{},"Weapons and rig frames: ",[40,10823,1144],{},[40,10825,356],{},[40,10827,5036],{},[40,10829,410],{}," on the sharpest corners and the muzzle. Van Saar guns should look machined, so keep the highlights crisp and skip the rust entirely - they are the one gang who maintain their kit.",[11,10832,10833,10834,1387,10836,10838],{},"Gold is rare and reserved: ",[40,10835,1409],{},[40,10837,559],{}," on a champion's fittings only.",[11,10840,10841,10842,1903,10844,10846],{},"Cabling and hoses read best in a near-black grey - ",[40,10843,1015],{},[40,10845,1019],{}," drybrush - so they separate from both the suit and the plates.",[15,10848,10850],{"id":10849},"the-glow","The glow",[11,10852,10853],{},"This is what sells the gang. Pick your emitters first - rifle coils, power packs, the vents on an Arachni-rig, lenses - and keep them all the same colour.",[545,10855,10856,10861,10866,10872,10878],{},[37,10857,10858,10859,578],{},"Basecoat the emitter ",[40,10860,672],{},[37,10862,567,10863,10865],{},[40,10864,676],{}," across most of it.",[37,10867,10868,10869,10871],{},"Put pure ",[40,10870,348],{}," in the very centre, where the light is brightest.",[37,10873,733,10874,10877],{},[40,10875,10876],{},"Aethermatic Blue"," contrast, thinned, outwards from the emitter onto the surrounding metal or suit for two or three millimetres. That spill is the whole trick.",[37,10879,10880],{},"Gloss varnish the emitter itself and leave everything around it matt.",[11,10882,10883,10884,302,10886,10888],{},"For lenses and small crystals, a single drop of ",[40,10885,403],{},[40,10887,10100],{}," technical paint over a light basecoat does the job in one step.",[11,10890,10891,10892,376,10894,376,10896,376,10898,10900],{},"Faces are pale and drawn - Van Saar are dying of the radiation their own tech leaks. ",[40,10893,6376],{},[40,10895,1046],{},[40,10897,584],{},[40,10899,577],{},", and lean towards the grey end at every stage.",[15,10902,66],{"id":65},[34,10904,10905,10911,10917,10923,10928],{},[37,10906,10907,10910],{},[40,10908,10909],{},"Thin the basecoat, then thin it again."," There is nowhere to hide on a bodyglove. Three thin coats beat two thick ones every time.",[37,10912,10913,10916],{},[40,10914,10915],{},"Keep the panels black."," Every step you highlight the armour plates, the cyan loses a bit of its punch. Dark plates are the frame around the colour.",[37,10918,10919,10922],{},[40,10920,10921],{},"One glow colour."," Cyan lenses, cyan coils, cyan vents. A green power pack and a blue lens on the same model reads as an accident.",[37,10924,10925,10927],{},[40,10926,7384],{}," No rust, no chips, minimal dust. Van Saar are the clean gang, and mud fights everything else in the scheme.",[37,10929,10930,10933],{},[40,10931,10932],{},"Highlight the edge, not the face of the plate."," On smooth surfaces a broad highlight looks like a smudge; a thin line looks like a hard edge catching the light.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":10935},[10936,10937,10940,10941,10942],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":10730,"depth":89,"text":10731,"children":10938},[10939],{"id":628,"depth":9637,"text":629},{"id":10806,"depth":89,"text":10807},{"id":10849,"depth":89,"text":10850},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint House Van Saar for Necromunda - the teal-cyan bodyglove recipe from basecoat to edge highlight, glowing tech panels and grav-rig lighting, plus a contrast route for the whole gang.","House Van Saar","#1FA8C4","Teal-cyan bodygloves, cold clean metal and glowing tech",{},"/factions/house-van-saar",{"title":10714,"description":10943},"factions/house-van-saar","407TFwoP_VtIxzg039Qrb3XO0vUim3lPINb2bFy0-FI",{"id":10953,"title":10954,"body":10955,"date":507,"description":11286,"extension":98,"faction":11287,"heroImage":510,"hex":11288,"intro":11289,"lastUpdated":11290,"meta":11291,"navigation":104,"path":11292,"seo":11293,"stem":11294,"system":1667,"__hash__":11295},"factions/factions/idoneth-deepkin.md","How to Paint Idoneth Deepkin",{"type":8,"value":10956,"toc":11275},[10957,10960,10962,10965,10969,10993,11004,11008,11025,11035,11048,11068,11072,11089,11093,11096,11139,11143,11185,11187,11190,11194,11197,11229,11235,11237,11263],[11,10958,10959],{},"The Idoneth are deep-sea aelves, and the range is built from marine shapes: fins, shells, eels and turtle-shelled leviadons. The palette is the most coherent in Age of Sigmar - almost everything is a variation on blue-green, lifted by warm gold and a single glowing gemstone. Get one teal and one skin tone settled and the rest of the army follows.",[15,10961,18],{"id":17},[11,10963,10964],{},"Pale, drowned skin on the Namarti thralls, deep turquoise armour and fins, verdigris-touched gold, and the cold light of aetherquartz set into helms and weapons. Everything should look like it has been underwater a long time - cool, slightly muted, with no warm browns anywhere except the leather.",[15,10966,10968],{"id":10967},"painting-sea-pale-skin","Painting sea-pale skin",[545,10970,10971,10977,10982,10988],{},[37,10972,549,10973,10976],{},[40,10974,10975],{},"Ionrach Skin"," over a grey undercoat.",[37,10978,7725,10979,10981],{},[40,10980,8345],{},", keeping it in the recesses rather than washing the whole model.",[37,10983,567,10984,10987],{},[40,10985,10986],{},"Deepkin Flesh"," over the raised muscle and the top of the limbs.",[37,10989,10990,10991,578],{},"Highlight the cheekbones, ribs and knuckles with ",[40,10992,584],{},[11,10994,10995,10996,1325,10998,11000,11001,11003],{},"The one-coat alternative is ",[40,10997,10876],{},[40,10999,301],{},", which gives a cooler, more spectral skin and suits a block of Namarti Reavers where speed matters more than blending. Namarti are eyeless, so paint the sockets ",[40,11002,6376],{}," and leave them blank - it is unsettling and it saves you painting twenty pairs of eyes.",[15,11005,11007],{"id":11006},"armour-fins-and-eels","Armour, fins and eels",[11,11009,11010,11011,666,11013,317,11015,7276,11017,11019,11020,1325,11022,11024],{},"Basecoat armour and fins ",[40,11012,665],{},[40,11014,669],{},[40,11016,672],{},[40,11018,676],{},". For speed, ",[40,11021,684],{},[40,11023,301],{}," does the same job in a coat.",[11,11026,11027,11028,9740,11030,302,11032,11034],{},"The best trick in this army is contrast over metal. Basecoat the eels and shell plates ",[40,11029,410],{},[40,11031,684],{},[40,11033,680],{}," over the top. The metallic reads through the transparent colour and gives you an iridescent, wet sheen that is very difficult to achieve any other way, and it takes minutes.",[11,11036,11037,11038,376,11040,345,11042,11044,11045,11047],{},"Gold trim goes ",[40,11039,691],{},[40,11041,559],{},[40,11043,1409],{}," on the raised work, with a stipple of ",[40,11046,5104],{}," in the recesses for verdigris. That single green-blue corrosion tone ties the metal to the rest of the palette.",[11,11049,11050,11051,442,11053,695,11056,6933,11059,442,11062,1535,11064,11067],{},"Other ranges: Vallejo runs ",[40,11052,10774],{},[40,11054,11055],{},"Caribbean Turquoise",[40,11057,11058],{},"Light Turquoise",[40,11060,11061],{},"Deep Ocean Blue",[40,11063,10784],{},[40,11065,11066],{},"Aegis Aqua"," as the highlight.",[15,11069,11071],{"id":11070},"aetherquartz","Aetherquartz",[11,11073,11074,11075,317,11077,11079,11080,11082,11083,11085,11086,11088],{},"The glowing gems are the army's signature. Basecoat the stone ",[40,11076,379],{},[40,11078,388],{}," across everything but the deepest corner, add ",[40,11081,676],{}," to the lower half, then a dot of ",[40,11084,348],{}," offset from centre. Glaze thinned ",[40,11087,388],{}," onto the surrounding metal so the gem appears to cast light. Two or three per model is plenty.",[15,11090,11092],{"id":11091},"cloth-bone-and-leather","Cloth, bone and leather",[11,11094,11095],{},"There is not much of it on an Idoneth model, which is exactly why it is worth getting right: these are the only warm notes in the scheme and they anchor everything else.",[34,11097,11098,11117,11130],{},[37,11099,11100,438,11103,376,11105,376,11107,1114,11109,11111,11112,1325,11114,11116],{},[40,11101,11102],{},"Wraps and cord",[40,11104,552],{},[40,11106,559],{},[40,11108,570],{},[40,11110,577],{}," on the frayed ends. ",[40,11113,638],{},[40,11115,301],{}," does it in one coat when you are batching Namarti.",[37,11118,11119,438,11122,1903,11124,345,11126,11129],{},[40,11120,11121],{},"Leather straps and harness",[40,11123,952],{},[40,11125,356],{},[40,11127,11128],{},"Stormvermin Fur"," on the edges. Keep it dark and desaturated; a bright tan belt is the single fastest way to break the underwater look.",[37,11131,11132,11135,11136,11138],{},[40,11133,11134],{},"Shells, teeth and bone plates"," - the same bone recipe, then a thin glaze of ",[40,11137,684],{}," pulled from the base of each plate so the bone picks up the water colour.",[15,11140,11142],{"id":11141},"enclave-palettes","Enclave palettes",[34,11144,11145,11151,11162,11173],{},[37,11146,11147,11150],{},[40,11148,11149],{},"Ionrach"," - the standard scheme: teal armour, pale skin, gold trim.",[37,11152,11153,11156,11157,442,11159,11161],{},[40,11154,11155],{},"Fuethán"," - warm and aggressive. Shift the armour to ",[40,11158,375],{},[40,11160,441],{}," and keep the skin cool for contrast.",[37,11163,11164,11167,11168,11170,11171,578],{},[40,11165,11166],{},"Dhom-Hain"," - darker and deeper. Base with ",[40,11169,352],{}," and highlight only to ",[40,11172,665],{},[37,11174,11175,11178,11179,329,11181,692,11183,578],{},[40,11176,11177],{},"Mor'phann"," - pale and washed out. ",[40,11180,341],{},[40,11182,344],{},[40,11184,669],{},[15,11186,8818],{"id":8817},[11,11188,11189],{},"Idoneth are a mid-sized army with two easy shortcuts - contrast skin and contrast-over-metal shells - which makes them faster than they look. The slow parts are the aetherquartz and the large monsters, both of which are showpiece work rather than repetitive labour.",[15,11191,11193],{"id":11192},"bases-and-the-sea-bed","Bases and the sea-bed",[11,11195,11196],{},"Bases matter more here than on most armies, because the conceit is that the Idoneth bring the sea with them. Two approaches, both quick:",[34,11198,11199,11214],{},[37,11200,11201,812,11204,1162,11207,11209,11210,11213],{},[40,11202,11203],{},"The pale sea floor.",[40,11205,11206],{},"Armageddon Dust",[40,11208,577],{},", with a scatter of ",[40,11211,11212],{},"Valhallan Blizzard"," as foam and surf. Bright, and it makes the teal armour pop.",[37,11215,11216,812,11219,11222,11223,11225,11226,11228],{},[40,11217,11218],{},"The dark deep.",[40,11220,11221],{},"Stirland Battlemire"," straight from the pot, drybrushed ",[40,11224,11128],{}," on the high points, with ",[40,11227,5104],{}," stippled into the hollows as weed. Sombre, and better for Dhom-Hain.",[11,11230,11231,11232,11234],{},"Either way, a gloss coat of ",[40,11233,7335],{}," in the low spots reads as standing water for the cost of one more minute, and it is the detail that makes a display base look wet rather than dusty.",[15,11236,66],{"id":65},[34,11238,11239,11245,11251,11257],{},[37,11240,11241,11244],{},[40,11242,11243],{},"Stay cool."," No warm browns in the cloth; keep leather dark and desaturated.",[37,11246,11247,11250],{},[40,11248,11249],{},"Glaze, do not wash."," A heavy shade over pale skin turns it grey and dead in the wrong way.",[37,11252,11253,11256],{},[40,11254,11255],{},"Contrast over silver."," It is the fastest iridescent effect in the hobby.",[37,11258,11259,11262],{},[40,11260,11261],{},"Ration the aetherquartz."," Glowing everything is glowing nothing.",[11,11264,11265,11266,11270,11271,11274],{},"Every Idoneth Deepkin kit and box we can price - the Namarti regiments, the Akhelian cavalry and the Leviadon - is on the ",[774,11267,11269],{"href":11268},"/armies/idoneth-deepkin","Idoneth Deepkin army page",". Try an enclave shift in the ",[774,11272,1265],{"href":11273},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=2f7f8c"," before you paint the whole tide.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":11276},[11277,11278,11279,11280,11281,11282,11283,11284,11285],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":10967,"depth":89,"text":10968},{"id":11006,"depth":89,"text":11007},{"id":11070,"depth":89,"text":11071},{"id":11091,"depth":89,"text":11092},{"id":11141,"depth":89,"text":11142},{"id":8817,"depth":89,"text":8818},{"id":11192,"depth":89,"text":11193},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Idoneth Deepkin - pale sea-touched skin, turquoise armour, iridescent eels and glowing aetherquartz, with enclave palettes and shortcuts using contrast over metallics.","Idoneth Deepkin","#2f7f8c","Sea-pale skin, turquoise armour and aetherquartz glow","2026-09-05",{},"/factions/idoneth-deepkin",{"title":10954,"description":11286},"factions/idoneth-deepkin","tgnW3JPrrVTq-z2LIUyhwzHetS7XWMW9XK38IOBip0o",{"id":11297,"title":11298,"body":11299,"date":507,"description":11499,"extension":98,"faction":11500,"heroImage":510,"hex":11501,"intro":11502,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":11503,"navigation":104,"path":11504,"seo":11505,"stem":11506,"system":108,"__hash__":11507},"factions/factions/imperial-agents.md","How to Paint Imperial Agents",{"type":8,"value":11300,"toc":11491},[11301,11304,11307,11311,11314,11341,11344,11348,11364,11381,11390,11394,11415,11419,11443,11447,11463,11465],[11,11302,11303],{},"Imperial Agents is not a single scheme, it is a collection of characters who happen to travel together: an Inquisitor and their retinue, a squad of Sisters of Silence, an Assassin, a Rogue Trader and whatever they have picked up along the way. Nobody in the force wears a uniform, which is both the appeal and the problem.",[11,11305,11306],{},"That makes it the best painting project in the Imperium for anyone who hates batch painting, and a slow one for anyone who wants an army on the table by the weekend. You are painting individuals, and each one takes as long as a character model should.",[15,11308,11310],{"id":11309},"the-unifying-palette","The unifying palette",[11,11312,11313],{},"Because the models have nothing in common structurally, the colours have to do the work. Pick three and use them on every model in the force:",[34,11315,11316,11323,11332],{},[37,11317,11318,11319,695,11321,578],{},"A black for armour, coats and bodygloves - ",[40,11320,371],{},[40,11322,1015],{},[37,11324,11325,11326,376,11328,376,11330,578],{},"A gold for heraldry and rosettes - ",[40,11327,1409],{},[40,11329,559],{},[40,11331,1414],{},[37,11333,11334,11335,1387,11337,8488,11339,578],{},"One spot colour, almost always red - ",[40,11336,441],{},[40,11338,559],{},[40,11340,385],{},[11,11342,11343],{},"Every model gets a piece of gold and a piece of red somewhere, even if it is only a seal or a lens. That single decision turns a shelf of unrelated miniatures into a warband.",[15,11345,11347],{"id":11346},"inquisitorial-retinues","Inquisitorial retinues",[11,11349,11350,11351,1607,11353,11355,11356,11358,11359,442,11361,11363],{},"The Inquisitor sets the tone. Black storm coats take ",[40,11352,371],{},[40,11354,6233],{}," highlight and a final ",[40,11357,1015],{}," edge - keep it subtle so the coat stays black. Leather in ",[40,11360,712],{},[40,11362,963],{},". Bodyguards, acolytes and servo-skulls follow the same recipe.",[11,11365,11366,11367,376,11369,376,11371,345,11373,11375,11376,1607,11378,11380],{},"Parchment, purity seals and books are everywhere in an Inquisitorial retinue and are worth doing properly: ",[40,11368,552],{},[40,11370,559],{},[40,11372,570],{},[40,11374,577],{}," on the curled edges. Wax seals in ",[40,11377,375],{},[40,11379,1370],{}," dot of light.",[11,11382,11383,11384,11386,11387,11389],{},"For an Ordo Malleus feel, swap the coat to ",[40,11385,4940],{},"; for Ordo Xenos, a bone coat over ",[40,11388,552],{}," looks distinctive and paints faster than black.",[15,11391,11393],{"id":11392},"sisters-of-silence","Sisters of Silence",[11,11395,11396,11397,11399,11400,376,11402,376,11404,345,11406,11408,11409,376,11411,376,11413,578],{},"The most uniform part of the force, and the fastest. Black plate as above, then gold trim on the shoulders and greaves, ",[40,11398,441],{}," tabards, and bone-white topknots - ",[40,11401,552],{},[40,11403,563],{},[40,11405,577],{},[40,11407,348],{}," on the tips. Skin should be pale and severe: ",[40,11410,6376],{},[40,11412,1046],{},[40,11414,584],{},[15,11416,11418],{"id":11417},"assassins","Assassins",[11,11420,11421,11422,6742,11424,11426,11427,612,11429,11431,11432,442,11434,11436,11437,11439,11440,11442],{},"One model, one afternoon. Keep them dark and desaturated so they read as operatives rather than heroes. Bodygloves in ",[40,11423,371],{},[40,11425,1019],{},", harnesses in ",[40,11428,1144],{},[40,11430,356],{},", and a single point of colour - a green optic in ",[40,11433,320],{},[40,11435,324],{},", or a bright ",[40,11438,410],{}," blade edge. Synskin and hoods take a very slight blue-grey tint from ",[40,11441,6362],{}," in the highlight so they do not disappear against the black.",[15,11444,11446],{"id":11445},"rogue-traders-and-hangers-on","Rogue Traders and hangers-on",[11,11448,11449,11450,376,11452,302,11454,11456,11457,11459,11460,11462],{},"This is where you let the palette off the leash slightly. Rich fabrics in ",[40,11451,379],{},[40,11453,4940],{},[40,11455,375],{},", all shaded heavily and highlighted narrowly, with far more gold than any other model in the force. Voidsmen and crew in ",[40,11458,8119],{}," overalls washed ",[40,11461,356],{},", which keeps them cheap and quick against their captain.",[15,11464,66],{"id":65},[34,11466,11467,11473,11479,11485],{},[37,11468,11469,11472],{},[40,11470,11471],{},"Choose the three colours before you start."," Retro-fitting a unifying palette to a half-painted warband never works.",[37,11474,11475,11478],{},[40,11476,11477],{},"Match the basing exactly."," With this force it is often the only thing every model shares.",[37,11480,11481,11484],{},[40,11482,11483],{},"Do not over-highlight the black coats."," Cloth wants a soft, wide highlight, not a hard edge.",[37,11486,11487,11490],{},[40,11488,11489],{},"Accept the pace."," These are character models. Paint them one at a time and enjoy it.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":11492},[11493,11494,11495,11496,11497,11498],{"id":11309,"depth":89,"text":11310},{"id":11346,"depth":89,"text":11347},{"id":11392,"depth":89,"text":11393},{"id":11417,"depth":89,"text":11418},{"id":11445,"depth":89,"text":11446},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Imperial Agents - black and gold Inquisitorial retinues, Sisters of Silence, Assassins and Rogue Trader entourages, and how to unify a force of one-off models.","Imperial Agents","#2c2f34","Black, gold and red across a warband of one-offs",{},"/factions/imperial-agents",{"title":11298,"description":11499},"factions/imperial-agents","TJG37NNXQFfEQQP7MwIZYB3vPsxmY6c-QHwnHHKs58o",{"id":11509,"title":11510,"body":11511,"date":96,"description":11590,"extension":98,"faction":6350,"heroImage":11591,"hex":11592,"intro":11593,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":11594,"navigation":104,"path":11595,"seo":11596,"stem":11597,"system":108,"__hash__":11598},"factions/factions/imperial-fists.md","How to Paint Imperial Fists",{"type":8,"value":11512,"toc":11584},[11513,11516,11518,11521,11525,11528,11542,11545,11549,11562,11564],[11,11514,11515],{},"Imperial Fists are defined by bright yellow armour, which is the single hardest colour to paint well. Yellow has poor pigment coverage, so painting it straight over a dark undercoat gives a streaky, greenish mess. Get the underpainting right and the rest is easy.",[15,11517,18],{"id":17},[11,11519,11520],{},"Clean, bright yellow armour with black and red detailing, gold trim and lots of Imperial iconography. The yellow should be saturated and even - patchiness shows badly on such a bright colour.",[15,11522,11524],{"id":11523},"getting-yellow-to-cover","Getting yellow to cover",[11,11526,11527],{},"Never basecoat yellow over black. Two methods that work:",[34,11529,11530,11536],{},[37,11531,11532,11535],{},[40,11533,11534],{},"Build up."," Undercoat white or bone, basecoat with a brown or orange-tinted yellow for coverage, then layer a clean yellow on top and glaze to even it out.",[37,11537,11538,11541],{},[40,11539,11540],{},"Contrast."," A yellow contrast paint over a white or bone undercoat gives smooth yellow in one or two passes - by far the fastest route for a yellow army.",[11,11543,11544],{},"Shade only in the deep recesses with a thin brown - black washes turn yellow dirty.",[15,11546,11548],{"id":11547},"successors","Successors",[34,11550,11551,11557],{},[37,11552,11553,11556],{},[40,11554,11555],{},"Crimson Fists"," - blue armour with red gauntlets (a much easier scheme).",[37,11558,11559,11561],{},[40,11560,1465],{}," - black armour with white, for painters who want the opposite of yellow.",[15,11563,66],{"id":65},[34,11565,11566,11572,11578],{},[37,11567,11568,11571],{},[40,11569,11570],{},"Light undercoat, always."," Yellow over dark = streaks.",[37,11573,11574,11577],{},[40,11575,11576],{},"Shade with brown, not black."," Black muddies yellow instantly.",[37,11579,11580,11583],{},[40,11581,11582],{},"Thin your coats."," Thick yellow dries chalky and uneven.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":11585},[11586,11587,11588,11589],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":11523,"depth":89,"text":11524},{"id":11547,"depth":89,"text":11548},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Imperial Fists - the bright yellow armour that trips up so many painters, with the base-build and contrast methods that actually give smooth yellow coverage.","/images/factions/imperial-fists.webp","#f2b417","Bright yellow armour done right, plus black and red detailing",{},"/factions/imperial-fists",{"title":11510,"description":11590},"factions/imperial-fists","eRu_HLxG_l8SwidaTBh2MzI564X2gY31OqUYAJAb1LA",{"id":11600,"title":11601,"body":11602,"date":507,"description":11806,"extension":98,"faction":11807,"heroImage":510,"hex":11808,"intro":11809,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":11810,"navigation":104,"path":11811,"seo":11812,"stem":11813,"system":108,"__hash__":11814},"factions/factions/imperial-knights.md","How to Paint Imperial Knights",{"type":8,"value":11603,"toc":11798},[11604,11607,11610,11612,11615,11619,11622,11636,11639,11643,11663,11679,11683,11691,11708,11712,11770,11772],[11,11605,11606],{},"An Imperial Knight is the opposite of a horde army. There is one model, and it is enormous. Nothing is hidden, every panel is a smooth curved surface that shows brush marks, and the trim runs around the edge of all of it. Expect the trim to take longer than the armour.",[11,11608,11609],{},"The upside is obvious: one finished Knight is a display piece, and you can field a whole detachment from three or four of them. For anyone who wants to paint carefully rather than quickly, this is the best army in 40,000.",[15,11611,18],{"id":17},[11,11613,11614],{},"Bright heraldic armour panels in a household colour, heavy gold or steel trim around every edge, dark mechanical joints and pistons underneath, and freehand heraldry on the shoulders and carapace. Knights are ancient and honoured, so keep the weathering restrained - a little dust and a few chips, not a rust bucket.",[15,11616,11618],{"id":11617},"the-armour-panels","The armour panels",[11,11620,11621],{},"Prime and basecoat in as few, as thin coats as you can. On a surface this size, a thick coat will show every stroke.",[11,11623,11624,11625,11627,11628,9740,11630,11632,11633,11635],{},"For House Terryn blue: base ",[40,11626,5467],{},", shade the panel joins with ",[40,11629,356],{},[40,11631,5487],{}," through the centre of each panel and edge-highlight ",[40,11634,2211],{},". Because the panels are large, a gradient across each one - darker at the edges, lighter in the middle - does far more than a flat colour plus a highlight.",[11,11637,11638],{},"Remove the panels before you paint, or at least leave them off the frame. Painting a Knight's inner mechanism through assembled armour is the most common regret people have with the kit.",[15,11640,11642],{"id":11641},"trim-and-metals","Trim and metals",[11,11644,11645,11646,666,11648,317,11650,7079,11652,11654,11655,376,11657,376,11659,345,11661,6296],{},"Gold trim: ",[40,11647,1409],{},[40,11649,559],{},[40,11651,1414],{},[40,11653,6973],{},". Steel trim, which suits the more austere households: ",[40,11656,1144],{},[40,11658,356],{},[40,11660,5036],{},[40,11662,410],{},[11,11664,11665,11666,1387,11668,11670,11671,11673,11674,302,11676,11678],{},"Everything underneath the panels - pistons, cabling, the throne housing - should be dark and oily. ",[40,11667,5026],{},[40,11669,356],{}," with a light ",[40,11672,1144],{}," drybrush is quick and reads correctly. Cabling in ",[40,11675,712],{},[40,11677,375],{}," breaks up the metal without competing with the armour.",[15,11680,11682],{"id":11681},"heraldry-and-freehand","Heraldry and freehand",[11,11684,11685,11686,612,11688,11690],{},"The shoulders and carapace want a device. Paint the field first, then the charge. A quartered shoulder in ",[40,11687,453],{},[40,11689,371],{}," is easier than it looks: mark the centre lightly in pencil, block the quarters, then clean the dividing line with the darker colour.",[11,11692,11693,11694,376,11696,376,11698,376,11700,11702,11703,1535,11705,11707],{},"Bone icons, skulls and scrollwork in ",[40,11695,552],{},[40,11697,559],{},[40,11699,570],{},[40,11701,577],{},". Purity seals and banners in ",[40,11704,441],{},[40,11706,570],{}," parchment. If freehand is not for you, transfers work perfectly well on flat pauldrons - gloss the panel first, apply, then matt varnish over the top.",[15,11709,11711],{"id":11710},"household-schemes","Household schemes",[34,11713,11714,11720,11733,11744,11754,11764],{},[37,11715,11716,11719],{},[40,11717,11718],{},"Terryn"," - royal blue with gold trim and red accents.",[37,11721,11722,438,11725,442,11727,11729,11730,11732],{},[40,11723,11724],{},"Hawkshroud",[40,11726,453],{},[40,11728,456],{},", black and red detailing. Yellow over a ",[40,11731,301],{}," undercoat, never black.",[37,11734,11735,438,11738,11740,11741,11743],{},[40,11736,11737],{},"Raven",[40,11739,371],{}," panels with ",[40,11742,348],{}," halves and steel trim; fast and very striking.",[37,11745,11746,438,11749,612,11751,11753],{},[40,11747,11748],{},"Taranis",[40,11750,8119],{},[40,11752,1144],{}," with red trim, the Mechanicus household.",[37,11755,11756,438,11759,442,11761,11763],{},[40,11757,11758],{},"Griffith",[40,11760,375],{},[40,11762,385],{}," with gold.",[37,11765,11766,11769],{},[40,11767,11768],{},"Cadmus"," - deep green with bone, for something less common.",[15,11771,66],{"id":65},[34,11773,11774,11780,11786,11792],{},[37,11775,11776,11779],{},[40,11777,11778],{},"Subassemble."," Panels off, legs separate, torso separate, weapons separate. Non-negotiable on this kit.",[37,11781,11782,11785],{},[40,11783,11784],{},"Thin coats on big panels."," Three thin coats of blue beat one thick one every single time.",[37,11787,11788,11791],{},[40,11789,11790],{},"Weather the feet, not the shoulders."," Dust and chipping belong low down where they make sense.",[37,11793,11794,11797],{},[40,11795,11796],{},"Do the trim last."," Paint the panel, then cut the trim in over the top and tidy back.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":11799},[11800,11801,11802,11803,11804,11805],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":11617,"depth":89,"text":11618},{"id":11641,"depth":89,"text":11642},{"id":11681,"depth":89,"text":11682},{"id":11710,"depth":89,"text":11711},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Imperial Knights - big smooth armour panels, gold and steel trim, heraldry and freehand, plus household schemes for Terryn, Hawkshroud, Raven and Taranis.","Imperial Knights","#1a3f8c","Huge smooth panels, heraldry, and trim that takes longer than the armour",{},"/factions/imperial-knights",{"title":11601,"description":11806},"factions/imperial-knights","cE15yImQs-ertKTm5440TveOrzVO3CzkcM_YpIqi6-o",{"id":11816,"title":11817,"body":11818,"date":507,"description":12030,"extension":98,"faction":12031,"heroImage":510,"hex":12032,"intro":12033,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":12034,"navigation":104,"path":12035,"seo":12036,"stem":12037,"system":108,"__hash__":12038},"factions/factions/iron-hands.md","How to Paint Iron Hands",{"type":8,"value":11819,"toc":12022},[11820,11823,11826,11828,11831,11833,11836,11848,11864,11875,11879,11899,11910,11920,11924,11939,11949,11953,11956,11991,11994,11996],[11,11821,11822],{},"Iron Hands are one of the quickest chapters to get to a good tabletop standard, and one of the more interesting ones to push further. The armour is black, which needs no shading. The bionics are bare metal, which drybrushes in seconds. What separates a decent Iron Hand from a great one is a single decision: whether the black reads as paint or as metal.",[11,11824,11825],{},"Get that right and a squad looks like walking industrial machinery. It is a genuinely fast army.",[15,11827,18],{"id":17},[11,11829,11830],{},"Matt black power armour with a cold metallic sheen, exposed steel bionics on almost every model, white chapter markings and a red left hand or shoulder icon. The chapter's obsession with replacing flesh means bionic limbs, augmetic eyes and mechanical cabling appear far more often than on other marines - lean into it.",[15,11832,6218],{"id":6217},[11,11834,11835],{},"There are two good approaches and they give quite different results.",[11,11837,11838,11841,11842,11844,11845,11847],{},[40,11839,11840],{},"The fast one."," Undercoat black, basecoat ",[40,11843,371],{},", edge-highlight ",[40,11846,1015],{}," and stop. Clean, dark, and a squad in an evening.",[11,11849,11850,11853,11854,11856,11857,11859,11860,11863],{},[40,11851,11852],{},"The metallic one, which is more characterful."," Undercoat black, then drybrush the whole model ",[40,11855,1144],{}," so the raised surfaces pick up metal. Glaze ",[40,11858,371],{}," thinned heavily over the top, two or three passes, until the plate is black again but the metal shows through as a cold sheen. Edge with ",[40,11861,11862],{},"Iron Hands Steel"," rather than grey. The result looks like blackened iron rather than painted ceramite, which is exactly right for this chapter.",[11,11865,11866,11867,11869,11870,357,11872,11874],{},"For a lighter, more gunmetal chapter look, ",[40,11868,5026],{}," basecoated, washed ",[40,11871,356],{},[40,11873,5036],{}," gives a dark metallic plate in three steps.",[15,11876,11878],{"id":11877},"bionics-and-bare-metal","Bionics and bare metal",[11,11880,11881,11882,1087,11884,7224,11886,7276,11888,11890,11891,302,11893,11895,11896,11898],{},"Every Iron Hand has something replaced. Base the bionic ",[40,11883,1144],{},[40,11885,356],{},[40,11887,5036],{},[40,11889,410],{}," so the augmetic is visibly brighter than the armour. Cabling in ",[40,11892,712],{},[40,11894,371],{},", with a few strands in ",[40,11897,375],{}," to break the monotony.",[11,11900,11901,11902,6302,11904,11906,11907,11909],{},"Augmetic eyes and optics take ",[40,11903,375],{},[40,11905,385],{}," across the lens and a ",[40,11908,348],{}," dot. On a model this dark that single red point does a lot.",[11,11911,11912,11913,1387,11915,1390,11917,11919],{},"Where flesh remains, keep it grey and unhealthy: ",[40,11914,6376],{},[40,11916,1046],{},[40,11918,584],{}," suits a warrior who regards his own body as a fault.",[15,11921,11923],{"id":11922},"markings-and-trim","Markings and trim",[11,11925,11926,11927,692,11929,4885,11931,11933,11934,407,11936,11938],{},"The left hand goes ",[40,11928,441],{},[40,11930,559],{},[40,11932,385],{},". Shoulder trim and squad markings in ",[40,11935,348],{},[40,11937,305],{}," base - do not try to paint white straight onto black.",[11,11940,11941,11942,376,11944,376,11946,11948],{},"Gold on characters and iron fathers: ",[40,11943,691],{},[40,11945,559],{},[40,11947,5258],{},". Keep it restrained. Iron Hands are not an ornamented chapter, and too much gold pushes them towards Custodes.",[15,11950,11952],{"id":11951},"clan-company-variations","Clan company variations",[11,11954,11955],{},"The chapter's ten clan companies each mark themselves differently, which is an easy way to vary a collection:",[34,11957,11958,11964,11970,11979,11985],{},[37,11959,11960,11963],{},[40,11961,11962],{},"Clan Raukaan"," - a red right shoulder pauldron.",[37,11965,11966,11969],{},[40,11967,11968],{},"Clan Avernii"," - white shoulder trim and more Terminator plate.",[37,11971,11972,11975,11976,11978],{},[40,11973,11974],{},"Clan Garrsak"," - heavy use of bare ",[40,11977,5036],{}," on greaves and gauntlets.",[37,11980,11981,11984],{},[40,11982,11983],{},"Clan Vurgaan"," - deep red trim and cabling throughout.",[37,11986,11987,11990],{},[40,11988,11989],{},"Clan Sorrgol"," - black with a white right arm.",[11,11992,11993],{},"Successor chapters like the Red Talons and Brazen Claws swap the armour colour outright but keep the bionics and the industrial feel.",[15,11995,66],{"id":65},[34,11997,11998,12004,12010,12016],{},[37,11999,12000,12003],{},[40,12001,12002],{},"Do not highlight black with light grey."," On this chapter, highlight it with metal instead.",[37,12005,12006,12009],{},[40,12007,12008],{},"Make the bionics brighter than the armour."," If they match, the model loses its whole point.",[37,12011,12012,12015],{},[40,12013,12014],{},"Base them industrially."," Rockcrete, mesh and rubble suit Medusa far better than grass.",[37,12017,12018,12021],{},[40,12019,12020],{},"Batch the armour, individualise the augmetics."," The black is a ten-minute job; the bionics are what people look at.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":12023},[12024,12025,12026,12027,12028,12029],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6217,"depth":89,"text":6218},{"id":11877,"depth":89,"text":11878},{"id":11922,"depth":89,"text":11923},{"id":11951,"depth":89,"text":11952},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Iron Hands - black armour with a metallic sheen, bare steel bionics, white and red chapter markings, and the clan company variations of Medusa.","Iron Hands","#3d4348","Black plate with a metal sheen, and bionics on every model",{},"/factions/iron-hands",{"title":11817,"description":12030},"factions/iron-hands","YADin_EvH7QEQQ96g7TM5-rewr_V6_VAbdN78w_VPz0",{"id":12040,"title":12041,"body":12042,"date":833,"description":12331,"extension":98,"faction":12332,"heroImage":510,"hex":12333,"intro":12334,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":12335,"navigation":104,"path":12336,"seo":12337,"stem":12338,"system":842,"__hash__":12339},"factions/factions/ironhead-squat-prospectors.md","How to Paint Ironhead Squat Prospectors",{"type":8,"value":12043,"toc":12322},[12044,12047,12049,12052,12056,12059,12096,12116,12118,12134,12138,12152,12164,12185,12189,12200,12203,12250,12257,12261,12279,12281,12315],[11,12045,12046],{},"Ironheads are industrial workwear, not armour. The look you are after is a mining crew that happens to be armed: hi-vis panels bolted over dark, oily plate, brass fittings gone dull, and honest wear on everything that touches rock. That means the weathering is not optional decoration here - it is what separates a Prospector from a yellow Space Marine.",[15,12048,18],{"id":17},[11,12050,12051],{},"Bright safety yellow on the panels a foreman wants seen - shoulder plates, helmet, rig collar, drill housing - over a dark grey or near-black bodysuit and machinery. Brass and bronze on pipework, buckles and lamp housings. Skin ruddy and weathered, beards in every colour a beard comes in. Dust in the lower third of every model.",[15,12053,12055],{"id":12054},"the-hi-vis-yellow","The hi-vis yellow",[11,12057,12058],{},"Yellow is the difficulty in this scheme and all of it comes down to the undercoat. Yellow over black needs five coats and still looks olive in the recesses.",[545,12060,12061,12069,12074,12083,12088],{},[37,12062,540,12063,12065,12066,12068],{},[40,12064,301],{},", or spray the model black and then zenithal ",[40,12067,305],{}," from above. Either gives yellow something bright to sit on.",[37,12070,549,12071,12073],{},[40,12072,453],{},", two thin coats. It is a warm ochre-yellow rather than a lemon, and it is deliberately duller than the finished panel.",[37,12075,12076,12077,12079,12080,12082],{},"Shade the panel lines and rivets with ",[40,12078,6549],{},". For a warmer, more worn look use ",[40,12081,563],{}," instead - on a mining rig that reads as grease.",[37,12084,567,12085,12087],{},[40,12086,456],{}," over the raised faces, leaving the shade in the recesses.",[37,12089,1060,12090,12092,12093,12095],{},[40,12091,6552],{}," along the top edges, then a final sparing catch of ",[40,12094,577],{}," on the sharpest corners only.",[11,12097,7492,12098,376,12100,376,12103,612,12106,12109,12110,1535,12113,12115],{},[40,12099,9441],{},[40,12101,12102],{},"Gold Yellow",[40,12104,12105],{},"Sunblast Yellow",[40,12107,12108],{},"Deep Yellow"," through the same ramp. Army Painter Fanatic gives you ",[40,12111,12112],{},"Daemonic Yellow",[40,12114,10317],{}," for the warm shadows.",[15,12117,629],{"id":628},[11,12119,540,12120,12122,12123,12126,12127,12130,12131,12133],{},[40,12121,301],{}," and put a single coat of ",[40,12124,12125],{},"Iyanden Yellow"," contrast on every hi-vis panel. It shades and colours in one pass and lands very close to the studio scheme. If you want the deeper, more orange-gold cast that suits Exo-kyn and the heavy rigs, use ",[40,12128,12129],{},"Nazdreg Yellow"," instead. Either way, one ",[40,12132,6552],{}," edge afterwards lifts it considerably for about a minute of work per model.",[15,12135,12137],{"id":12136},"dark-plate-brass-and-machinery","Dark plate, brass and machinery",[11,12139,12140,12143,12144,12146,12147,1567,12149,12151],{},[40,12141,12142],{},"The dark underlayer:"," basecoat ",[40,12145,371],{},", drybrush lightly with ",[40,12148,1015],{},[40,12150,1019],{},". Keep it dark - the value gap between the black plate and the yellow panels is what makes the hi-vis look hi-vis.",[11,12153,12154,812,12157,692,12159,695,12161,12163],{},[40,12155,12156],{},"Exposed machinery, drills and pistons:",[40,12158,1144],{},[40,12160,356],{},[40,12162,410],{},". Ironhead gear is worked hardware, so let the shade pool in the joints.",[11,12165,12166,12143,12169,666,12171,317,12173,12175,12176,12178,12179,12181,12182,12184],{},[40,12167,12168],{},"Brass:",[40,12170,691],{},[40,12172,559],{},[40,12174,698],{},", then a fine highlight of ",[40,12177,1573],{}," on the raised edges. For pipework that has been damp for a century, stipple a very little ",[40,12180,4851],{}," into the recesses, or glaze ",[40,12183,5104],{}," and wipe most of it back off.",[15,12186,12188],{"id":12187},"faces-and-beards","Faces and beards",[11,12190,10619,12191,692,12193,4885,12195,1845,12197,12199],{},[40,12192,1041],{},[40,12194,1046],{},[40,12196,1056],{},[40,12198,1063],{}," on the nose, brow and cheekbones. Ironheads are outdoor workers, so let the ruddiness stay.",[11,12201,12202],{},"Beards are where you get variety in a gang of near-identical silhouettes, so paint each one differently:",[34,12204,12205,12216,12227,12241],{},[37,12206,12207,438,12210,666,12212,7010,12214,578],{},[40,12208,12209],{},"Dark brown",[40,12211,712],{},[40,12213,559],{},[40,12215,725],{},[37,12217,12218,438,12221,666,12223,7010,12225,578],{},[40,12219,12220],{},"Ginger",[40,12222,988],{},[40,12224,559],{},[40,12226,5739],{},[37,12228,12229,438,12232,1087,12234,7010,12236,345,12238,12240],{},[40,12230,12231],{},"Grey and white",[40,12233,1019],{},[40,12235,356],{},[40,12237,1311],{},[40,12239,341],{}," on the tips.",[37,12242,12243,438,12245,1162,12247,12249],{},[40,12244,6058],{},[40,12246,371],{},[40,12248,1015],{},", which reads better than any true black at this scale.",[11,12251,12252,12253,12256],{},"Drybrushing is the right tool for all four: it catches the sculpted texture and takes seconds. The ",[774,12254,12255],{"href":1025},"drybrushing guide"," covers loading the brush properly if your results are coming out chalky.",[15,12258,12260],{"id":12259},"weathering-the-rig","Weathering the rig",[11,12262,12263,12264,12266,12267,12269,12270,12272,12273,12275,12276,12278],{},"Do this last, and do it in this order. Sponge-chip the yellow panels with ",[40,12265,712],{}," first, concentrating on edges and corners, then add a few smaller ",[40,12268,1144],{}," chips inside the brown ones - a chip that has gone through paint and primer to bare metal has a dark rim. Stipple ",[40,12271,1151],{}," around bolt heads and the bases of pistons, then stipple ",[40,12274,1155],{}," sparingly on top of it. Finally, drybrush ",[40,12277,552],{}," up the boots, shins and the underside of any rig, fading out about a third of the way up the model.",[15,12280,66],{"id":65},[34,12282,12283,12289,12295,12301,12307],{},[37,12284,12285,12288],{},[40,12286,12287],{},"The undercoat decides the yellow."," No amount of extra coats fixes yellow applied over black. Bone or light grey first, every time.",[37,12290,12291,12294],{},[40,12292,12293],{},"Do not chip everything."," Chipping reads as wear only where wear actually happens: leading edges, corners, knees, the mouth of a drill housing. Chips in the middle of a flat panel look like a mistake because they are one.",[37,12296,12297,12300],{},[40,12298,12299],{},"Keep the dark plate genuinely dark."," Highlighting the black up to mid-grey kills the hi-vis contrast that the whole scheme is built on.",[37,12302,12303,12306],{},[40,12304,12305],{},"Vary the beards, not the yellow."," The uniform panels are what makes them a crew; the faces are what makes them individuals.",[37,12308,12309,812,12312,12314],{},[40,12310,12311],{},"Two thin coats, then stop.",[40,12313,453],{}," is thick and tempting to lay on heavily, and brush marks in yellow are extremely visible.",[11,12316,12317,12318,12321],{},"Once the palette suits you, ",[774,12319,822],{"href":12320},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=F2A20C"," to swap brands or try a hotter orange-yellow.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":12323},[12324,12325,12326,12327,12328,12329,12330],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":12054,"depth":89,"text":12055},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":12136,"depth":89,"text":12137},{"id":12187,"depth":89,"text":12188},{"id":12259,"depth":89,"text":12260},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Ironhead Squat Prospectors for Necromunda - hi-vis mining yellow over dark plate, brass fittings, weathered rigs and a full range of beards.","Ironhead Squat Prospectors","#F2A20C","Hi-vis yellow over dark plate, brass, rust and a lot of beard",{},"/factions/ironhead-squat-prospectors",{"title":12041,"description":12331},"factions/ironhead-squat-prospectors","h4l1xFzRwIRnokutiH8tgnQg-u1JWRTwHerwGAC0EtI",{"id":12341,"title":12342,"body":12343,"date":96,"description":12412,"extension":98,"faction":12413,"heroImage":12414,"hex":12415,"intro":12416,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":12417,"navigation":104,"path":12418,"seo":12419,"stem":12420,"system":1667,"__hash__":12421},"factions/factions/kharadron-overlords.md","How to Paint Kharadron Overlords",{"type":8,"value":12344,"toc":12406},[12345,12348,12350,12353,12357,12377,12381,12384,12386],[11,12346,12347],{},"Kharadron Overlords are steampunk sky-dwarves in panelled armour and flying ironclads. The look is clean, industrial and rivet-heavy - more like painting a vehicle than an organic model - which rewards neat basecoating and panel work.",[15,12349,18],{"id":17},[11,12351,12352],{},"Brass and gold metallics, navy or teal painted-metal armour panels, dark leather, and the warm glow of aether-gold endrins (the floating engines). It should read as a well-engineered, slightly weathered flying machine made flesh.",[15,12354,12356],{"id":12355},"painting-the-panels-and-metal","Painting the panels and metal",[34,12358,12359,12365,12371],{},[37,12360,12361,12364],{},[40,12362,12363],{},"Armour panels"," - flat, even basecoats in navy or teal, edge-highlighted crisply along the riveted plates. Treat them like vehicle panels: shade the recesses, keep the faces clean.",[37,12366,12367,12370],{},[40,12368,12369],{},"Brass and gold"," - basecoat, brown/sepia wash, edge highlight. Half the model is metal, so good, warm metallics carry the scheme.",[37,12372,12373,12376],{},[40,12374,12375],{},"Weathering"," - light chipping and oil grime in the recesses sells the working-machine feel without overdoing it.",[15,12378,12380],{"id":12379},"endrins-and-lenses","Endrins and lenses",[11,12382,12383],{},"The aether-gold endrin spheres and glass lenses are the points of glow - a warm amber or teal light with a soft glaze onto the surrounding brass.",[15,12385,66],{"id":65},[34,12387,12388,12394,12400],{},[37,12389,12390,12393],{},[40,12391,12392],{},"Panel-line, don't slather."," Clean panels with shaded recesses look engineered; an all-over wash looks muddy.",[37,12395,12396,12399],{},[40,12397,12398],{},"Warm metallics."," Brass and gold define the army - shade them deep.",[37,12401,12402,12405],{},[40,12403,12404],{},"Light weathering only."," A little grime reads as \"working\"; too much reads as \"wreck\".",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":12407},[12408,12409,12410,12411],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":12355,"depth":89,"text":12356},{"id":12379,"depth":89,"text":12380},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Kharadron Overlords - the sky-faring duardin with their brass, navy and aether-gold panelled armour and rivet-heavy steampunk look.","Kharadron Overlords","/images/factions/kharadron-overlords.webp","#1f6f7a","Brass, navy and aether-gold sky-duardin",{},"/factions/kharadron-overlords",{"title":12342,"description":12412},"factions/kharadron-overlords","xAmwVcnQw8aZnGhs2yRVNs_cN_G4t4Kw9iCpTzial1c",{"id":12423,"title":12424,"body":12425,"date":833,"description":12694,"extension":98,"faction":12695,"heroImage":510,"hex":12696,"intro":12697,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":12698,"navigation":104,"path":12699,"seo":12700,"stem":12701,"system":1284,"__hash__":12702},"factions/factions/kingdom-of-bretonnia.md","How to Paint Kingdom of Bretonnia",{"type":8,"value":12426,"toc":12686},[12427,12430,12433,12435,12438,12440,12466,12478,12482,12503,12518,12530,12545,12549,12552,12584,12590,12593,12597,12600,12627,12644,12646,12681],[11,12428,12429],{},"Bretonnia is the one classic army where two models in the same unit are meant to look different. Every knight is a nobleman with his own arms, so a lance formation is a row of individual colour schemes riding together. That sounds like a nightmare and mostly is not, because the underlying recipe never changes - a bright blue, a clean red, a cream and a gold - and only the arrangement of them moves from model to model.",[11,12431,12432],{},"The peasants are the opposite: drab, muddy and quick. Paint the knights slowly and the bowmen fast, and the army balances out.",[15,12434,18],{"id":17},[11,12436,12437],{},"Saturated, storybook colour. Bretonnian blue is brighter and more purple than a Space Marine blue, the red is a clean scarlet rather than a blood red, and both sit against polished, unrusted steel and bare cream barding. No weathering above the horse's knees. This is a parade, not a campaign.",[15,12439,6886],{"id":6885},[545,12441,12442,12446,12451,12456],{},[37,12443,549,12444,553],{},[40,12445,5467],{},[37,12447,1502,12448,12450],{},[40,12449,669],{}," rather than a black wash - it keeps the shadows blue instead of turning them grey.",[37,12452,567,12453,12455],{},[40,12454,5481],{}," across the raised cloth and armour. This is the step people skip, and it is the one that makes the blue heraldic rather than military.",[37,12457,1060,12458,12460,12461,302,12463,12465],{},[40,12459,5487],{},", then a fine edge of ",[40,12462,2211],{},[40,12464,9177],{}," on the topmost folds and plate edges.",[11,12467,1851,12468,5749,12470,12472,12473,12475,12476,578],{},[40,12469,301],{},[40,12471,5494],{}," for the bright heraldic version or ",[40,12474,6919],{}," for a deeper one, then edge with ",[40,12477,5487],{},[15,12479,12481],{"id":12480},"the-red-yellow-and-cream","The red, yellow and cream",[11,12483,12484,12485,1903,12487,12489,12490,2873,12492,12494,12495,12497,12498,407,12500,12502],{},"Red: ",[40,12486,375],{},[40,12488,1050],{}," in the recesses, ",[40,12491,441],{},[40,12493,385],{}," highlight, and ",[40,12496,1370],{}," on the sharpest edges. ",[40,12499,4797],{},[40,12501,301],{}," undercoat is the one-coat equivalent and is genuinely hard to beat on barding.",[11,12504,12505,12506,12508,12509,4885,12511,1845,12513,6261,12515,12517],{},"Yellow: ",[40,12507,453],{}," over bone, shaded ",[40,12510,6549],{},[40,12512,456],{},[40,12514,6552],{},[40,12516,12125],{}," is the fast version.",[11,12519,12520,12521,12523,12524,12526,12527,12529],{},"Cream and white: ",[40,12522,1132],{}," basecoat, thinned ",[40,12525,559],{}," only in the deepest folds, then ",[40,12528,348],{}," on the raised areas. Bretonnian white should stay slightly warm - pure white barding looks like paper.",[11,12531,6926,12532,376,12534,612,12536,10778,12538,376,12540,612,12542,578],{},[40,12533,6932],{},[40,12535,5764],{},[40,12537,9725],{},[40,12539,6938],{},[40,12541,1534],{},[40,12543,12544],{},"Matt White",[15,12546,12548],{"id":12547},"heraldry-and-quarters","Heraldry and quarters",[11,12550,12551],{},"The whole army lives or dies on this section, and the technique is more about planning than brush control.",[545,12553,12554,12560,12566,12572,12578],{},[37,12555,12556,12559],{},[40,12557,12558],{},"Choose two colours per knight, no more."," Blue and yellow, red and white, blue and white. A third colour arrives only as a charge or a border.",[37,12561,12562,12565],{},[40,12563,12564],{},"Pick a division and repeat it."," Halved down the middle, quartered, or diagonally per bend. Quarters are the easiest to get square because the shield boss marks the centre for you.",[37,12567,12568,12571],{},[40,12569,12570],{},"Paint the lighter colour over the whole panel first",", then cut the darker one over it. Cutting dark over light needs one pass; light over dark needs three.",[37,12573,12574,12577],{},[40,12575,12576],{},"Mark the division lightly in pencil"," before you start. It rubs off with a damp brush and saves a repaint.",[37,12579,12580,12583],{},[40,12581,12582],{},"Tidy the line last"," by running the lighter colour back along the boundary until it is straight.",[11,12585,12586,12587,12589],{},"For freehand charges - fleur-de-lys, crosses, grails - thin the paint with ",[40,12588,7112],{}," rather than water, and build the shape in two or three passes instead of trying to land it in one wet stroke. Paint the shape solid first and worry about crispness on the second pass. A fleur-de-lys is a teardrop, two curved leaves and a bar, in that order.",[11,12591,12592],{},"Paint shields and banners off the model wherever the kit allows it. A flat panel held in your fingers is a different job from a curved panel attached to an arm.",[15,12594,12596],{"id":12595},"barding-horses-and-steel","Barding, horses and steel",[11,12598,12599],{},"Barding is a large, flat, slightly curved area, which makes it the best freehand surface in the game. Base it in the knight's primary colour and treat it exactly like the shield.",[11,12601,12602,12603,442,12605,442,12607,12609,12610,442,12612,12614,12615,442,12617,12619,12620,376,12622,612,12624,12626],{},"Bare horse coats want browns, not colours: ",[40,12604,712],{},[40,12606,725],{},[40,12608,963],{}," for a bay; ",[40,12611,598],{},[40,12613,590],{}," for a dun; ",[40,12616,305],{},[40,12618,348],{}," for a grey. ",[40,12621,646],{},[40,12623,1177],{},[40,12625,1180],{}," each do the whole job in a coat if you would rather spend the time on heraldry.",[11,12628,5508,12629,692,12631,695,12633,1114,12635,12637,12638,376,12640,376,12642,578],{},[40,12630,1144],{},[40,12632,356],{},[40,12634,5036],{},[40,12636,410],{}," on helm crests and blade edges. Gold trim, spurs and grail iconography: ",[40,12639,1409],{},[40,12641,559],{},[40,12643,1414],{},[15,12645,66],{"id":65},[34,12647,12648,12654,12660,12666,12675],{},[37,12649,12650,12653],{},[40,12651,12652],{},"Two colours per knight, not five."," A lance where every model uses the same limited palette in different arrangements looks like a household. One where every model uses different colours looks like a bring-and-buy.",[37,12655,12656,12659],{},[40,12657,12658],{},"Unify with the bases and the horses."," Wildly varied riders only work if the ground and the mounts are consistent.",[37,12661,12662,12665],{},[40,12663,12664],{},"Do not weather the knights."," A little mud on the hooves and hem is all the story you need.",[37,12667,12668,12671,12672,12674],{},[40,12669,12670],{},"Thin your freehand."," Unthinned paint drags and blobs; ",[40,12673,7112],{}," keeps the pigment strong while the flow improves.",[37,12676,12677,12680],{},[40,12678,12679],{},"Peasants are a different army."," Browns, drab greens and dirt, painted three times as fast. The contrast with the knights is the point.",[11,12682,7166,12683,7170],{},[774,12684,822],{"href":12685},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=2f57ad",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":12687},[12688,12689,12690,12691,12692,12693],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":6885,"depth":89,"text":6886},{"id":12480,"depth":89,"text":12481},{"id":12547,"depth":89,"text":12548},{"id":12595,"depth":89,"text":12596},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Kingdom of Bretonnia - bright heraldic blue and red, quartered shields and barding, polished knightly steel, and the freehand technique that makes it all work.","Kingdom of Bretonnia","#2f57ad","Bright heraldry, polished steel and freehand quarters",{},"/factions/kingdom-of-bretonnia",{"title":12424,"description":12694},"factions/kingdom-of-bretonnia","rneJ5vs4ujeB-j_W2q3MelnDyYMAaO4lMnNfzXlYTMc",{"id":12704,"title":12705,"body":12706,"date":507,"description":12811,"extension":98,"faction":12812,"heroImage":510,"hex":12813,"intro":12814,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":12815,"navigation":104,"path":12816,"seo":12817,"stem":12818,"system":12819,"__hash__":12820},"factions/factions/knight-houses.md","How to Paint Knight Houses",{"type":8,"value":12707,"toc":12804},[12708,12711,12715,12747,12751,12754,12757,12760,12763,12767,12770,12772,12798],[11,12709,12710],{},"A Questoris Knight is not a big infantry model. It is a heraldic banner on legs, and it is painted the way a vehicle is painted: large smooth panels, hard-edged markings, and weathering to stop all that flat colour going dead. The households of the Age of Darkness are feudal aristocracies, so the livery is the point - two or three bold colours, arranged in quarters and bands, with a device repeated across carapace, tilting shield and shoulder.",[15,12712,12714],{"id":12713},"the-panels","The panels",[545,12716,12717,12723,12729,12735,12741],{},[37,12718,12719,12722],{},[40,12720,12721],{},"Undercoat black"," for a deep livery, grey or white for a pale one. On surfaces this size an aerosol or airbrush is worth it - brush marks on a knee plate are visible across the room.",[37,12724,12725,12728],{},[40,12726,12727],{},"Basecoat the household colour"," in thin, even coats. Macragge Blue for a royal blue house; Mephiston Red, Averland Sunset or Corax White depending on your heraldry.",[37,12730,12731,12734],{},[40,12732,12733],{},"Panel-line rather than wash."," Run thinned Nuln Oil into the joins between plates and around raised bolts with a fine brush. A wash over the whole panel will leave tide marks you cannot hide.",[37,12736,12737,12740],{},[40,12738,12739],{},"Highlight the edges"," with a lighter version of the base - Calgar Blue and then a whisper of Fenrisian Grey over Macragge Blue, Evil Sunz Scarlet over Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow over Averland Sunset, White Scar over Corax White.",[37,12742,12743,12746],{},[40,12744,12745],{},"Trim and structure"," in gold: Retributor Armour, Agrax Earthshade, Auric Armour Gold. Pistons, joints and gun barrels in Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil, Ironbreaker.",[15,12748,12750],{"id":12749},"heraldry-which-is-the-whole-job","Heraldry, which is the whole job",[11,12752,12753],{},"Quartered panels are easier than they look if you mask them. Basecoat the lighter colour first, let it cure properly overnight, lay low-tack tape along the division, burnish the edge down hard with a fingernail and spray or brush the second colour away from the tape edge. Peel while the paint is touch-dry.",[11,12755,12756],{},"Freehand devices - a lion, a serpent, a chequer band - go on afterwards. Sketch the shape in a mid-tone first, correct it with the surrounding panel colour, then fill and outline. Chequers only need one rule: mark the grid lightly with a pencil before you paint anything. Keep the largest device on the carapace and the tilting shield, and repeat a simplified version on the shoulder.",[15,12758,12375],{"id":12759},"weathering",[11,12761,12762],{},"Break the flat colour with battle damage rather than dirt. Sponge Rhinox Hide chips along the leading edges of the shins, feet and shoulders, then dot a handful of them with Leadbelcher so a few read as bare metal. Drag thinned Agrax Earthshade downwards from bolts and vents. Stipple Typhus Corrosion with Ryza Rust dabbed into it around exhausts and ankle joints, and drybrush Karak Stone up the legs from the base. A soft Abaddon Black stipple above the exhausts finishes it.",[15,12764,12766],{"id":12765},"how-long-it-takes","How long it takes",[11,12768,12769],{},"Fast in one sense - a household is a handful of models, and one Knight can be a table's centrepiece. Slow in another: the panels punish thick paint and rushed masking, and the freehand is not optional if the model is to look like a Knight of a house rather than a blue robot. Expect a full weekend on your first, and rather less on the second, once your heraldry is decided.",[15,12771,66],{"id":65},[34,12773,12774,12780,12786,12792],{},[37,12775,12776,12779],{},[40,12777,12778],{},"Thin coats, cured properly."," Masking tape lifts paint that is dry to the touch but not hard. Give it a day.",[37,12781,12782,12785],{},[40,12783,12784],{},"Two colours, not five."," Heraldry works by contrast; a knight in five colours reads as noise.",[37,12787,12788,12791],{},[40,12789,12790],{},"Highlight the panel edge, not the panel."," The eye reads shape from the outline of each plate.",[37,12793,12794,12797],{},[40,12795,12796],{},"Damage lives where it would happen."," Shins, feet, shoulders and weapon housings - not the middle of a clean carapace.",[11,12799,7166,12800,12803],{},[774,12801,822],{"href":12802},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=22508c"," to swap paints between brands or build your own household livery.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":12805},[12806,12807,12808,12809,12810],{"id":12713,"depth":89,"text":12714},{"id":12749,"depth":89,"text":12750},{"id":12759,"depth":89,"text":12375},{"id":12765,"depth":89,"text":12766},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Horus Heresy Questoris Knights - smooth heraldic panels, masked quartering, freehand household devices and the weathering that keeps a huge flat colour interesting.","Knight Houses","#22508c","Huge flat panels, heraldry and freehand",{},"/factions/knight-houses",{"title":12705,"description":12811},"factions/knight-houses","hh","aP-wUzOt2MPIfF6prPHQuLPcBuh56Wuu0weGO0z2hPo",{"id":12822,"title":12823,"body":12824,"date":507,"description":13101,"extension":98,"faction":13102,"heroImage":510,"hex":13103,"intro":13104,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":13105,"navigation":104,"path":13106,"seo":13107,"stem":13108,"system":108,"__hash__":13109},"factions/factions/leagues-of-votann.md","How to Paint Leagues of Votann",{"type":8,"value":12825,"toc":13093},[12826,12829,12831,12834,12838,12872,12894,12898,12950,12953,12957,12985,12995,12999,13002,13050,13053,13055,13087],[11,12827,12828],{},"The Kin reach a genuinely good tabletop standard faster than almost any other 40k army. The models are large, the armour is built from broad flat plates with deep panel lines, and there is more exposed machinery than fiddly detail. Add a low model count and an hour spent on one squad shows across the whole force. Paint them like vehicles rather than infantry: clean panels, shaded recesses, crisp edges.",[15,12830,18],{"id":17},[11,12832,12833],{},"The Trans-Hyperian Alliance scheme is warm ochre-bronze armour plates over a dark grey bodyglove, with a great deal of bare steel and brass on guns, packs and mining gear. Amber lenses give each model a point of glow, black-and-yellow hazard striping marks the working parts, and stamped runes and ancestor iconography carry the religious side of the Kin.",[15,12835,12837],{"id":12836},"painting-the-armour-plates","Painting the armour plates",[545,12839,12840,12845,12850,12858,12864],{},[37,12841,540,12842,12844],{},[40,12843,301],{}," - the warm base makes the ochre sing and saves a coat.",[37,12846,549,12847,12849],{},[40,12848,552],{},", two thin coats, keeping the plate faces flat and even.",[37,12851,556,12852,812,12854,12857],{},[40,12853,559],{},[2334,12855,12856],{},"into the panel lines and recesses only",", never over the faces.",[37,12859,12860,12861,12863],{},"Re-layer ",[40,12862,552],{}," on the faces to reclaim any staining.",[37,12865,6466,12866,12868,12869,12871],{},[40,12867,590],{}," along the plate borders, then ",[40,12870,577],{}," on the sharpest corners alone.",[11,12873,12874,12875,12877,12878,12881,12882,12885,12886,1047,12888,1535,12891,12893],{},"The fast route is one coat of ",[40,12876,646],{}," contrast over Wraithbone - see ",[774,12879,12880],{"href":5654},"best contrast paints"," - then straight to the Karak Stone edges. Equivalents: ",[40,12883,12884],{},"Vallejo Iraqi Sand"," highlighted with ",[40,12887,608],{},[40,12889,12890],{},"Army Painter Desert Yellow",[40,12892,1538],{}," in the recesses.",[15,12895,12897],{"id":12896},"the-metals-and-there-are-plenty","The metals, and there are plenty",[34,12899,12900,12920,12938],{},[37,12901,12902,438,12904,376,12906,7079,12908,1114,12910,12912,12913,302,12916,12919],{},[40,12903,224],{},[40,12905,1144],{},[40,12907,356],{},[40,12909,5036],{},[40,12911,410],{}," on barrels and blades. ",[40,12914,12915],{},"Army Painter Gun Metal",[40,12917,12918],{},"Vallejo Gunmetal Grey"," do the same job.",[37,12921,12922,438,12924,376,12926,1845,12928,12930,12931,12934,12935,578],{},[40,12923,218],{},[40,12925,691],{},[40,12927,1046],{},[40,12929,698],{},". Or ",[40,12932,12933],{},"Army Painter Weapon Bronze"," up to ",[40,12936,12937],{},"Greedy Gold",[37,12939,12940,12943,12944,12946,12947,12949],{},[40,12941,12942],{},"Verdigris and grime"," - thinned ",[40,12945,5104],{}," in the brass recesses, ",[40,12948,1151],{}," around vents and feet.",[11,12951,12952],{},"Keep the steel cool and the brass warm. That temperature split is what stops a metal-heavy model reading as one undifferentiated lump.",[15,12954,12956],{"id":12955},"bodyglove-lenses-and-hazard-markings","Bodyglove, lenses and hazard markings",[11,12958,12959,12960,376,12962,695,12964,12966,12967,12969,12970,12973,12974,6302,12976,12978,12979,12981,12982,12984],{},"The undersuit is ",[40,12961,8119],{},[40,12963,356],{},[40,12965,1019],{}," then ",[40,12968,1311],{}," - or ",[40,12971,12972],{},"Army Painter Uniform Grey",". Keep it dark so the plates stay the star. Lenses are ",[40,12975,371],{},[40,12977,5119],{}," over the glass, ",[40,12980,1155],{}," at the centre and a dot of ",[40,12983,577],{}," for the catchlight.",[11,12986,12987,12988,442,12990,1535,12992,12994],{},"Hazard striping is ",[40,12989,453],{},[40,12991,456],{},[40,12993,371],{}," stripes over the top. Those broad plates also take transfers better than nearly anything else in 40k, so decals here are a legitimate technique rather than a compromise. Pick out the runic plates and a Kâhl's ancestor mask in brass, with black in the recessed runes so they read at arm's length.",[15,12996,12998],{"id":12997},"league-colour-variants","League colour variants",[11,13000,13001],{},"The Kin are built around Leagues with their own liveries, so the plate colour is the intended place to make the army yours:",[34,13003,13004,13018,13029,13040],{},[37,13005,13006,13009,13010,13012,13013,13015,13016,578],{},[40,13007,13008],{},"Greater Thurian League"," - deep blue: ",[40,13011,5467],{}," (or ",[40,13014,5494],{}," contrast) edged ",[40,13017,2211],{},[37,13019,13020,13023,13024,442,13026,13028],{},[40,13021,13022],{},"Ymyr Conglomerate"," - industrial yellow: ",[40,13025,453],{},[40,13027,456],{},", hazard striping used liberally.",[37,13030,13031,13034,13035,442,13037,13039],{},[40,13032,13033],{},"Urani-Surtr Regulates"," - volcanic red: ",[40,13036,441],{},[40,13038,385],{}," over darkened, sooty metal.",[37,13041,13042,13045,13046,6742,13048,578],{},[40,13043,13044],{},"Kronus Hegemony"," - dark green: ",[40,13047,312],{},[40,13049,320],{},[11,13051,13052],{},"Hold the metals, bodyglove and hazard markings constant and change only the plates. Two Leagues fielded together will still read as one army.",[15,13054,66],{"id":65},[34,13056,13057,13063,13069,13075,13081],{},[37,13058,13059,13062],{},[40,13060,13061],{},"Panel-line, don't drown it."," An all-over wash turns these clean plates muddy - recesses only.",[37,13064,13065,13068],{},[40,13066,13067],{},"Let the decals work."," Flat, broad armour is what transfers are for, and they beat freehand runes every time.",[37,13070,13071,13074],{},[40,13072,13073],{},"Split your metals."," Cool steel against warm brass is the engine of the scheme; all-silver Kin look unfinished.",[37,13076,13077,13080],{},[40,13078,13079],{},"Do the faces properly."," With so few models in the army, an afternoon on the exposed faces and beards is affordable and very visible.",[37,13082,13083,13086],{},[40,13084,13085],{},"Weather low."," Dust on boots, tracks and lower plates; keep the upper armour clean, because these are miners in maintained kit, not wreckage.",[11,13088,5926,13089,13092],{},[774,13090,822],{"href":13091},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=a87b3e"," to swap brands, shift the ochre warmer or cooler, or build a League livery of your own.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":13094},[13095,13096,13097,13098,13099,13100],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":12836,"depth":89,"text":12837},{"id":12896,"depth":89,"text":12897},{"id":12955,"depth":89,"text":12956},{"id":12997,"depth":89,"text":12998},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Leagues of Votann - the Trans-Hyperian Alliance's ochre armour plates, exposed steel and brass, hazard markings and ancestor iconography, plus League colour variants.","Leagues of Votann","#a87b3e","Ochre plates, industrial metals and hazard-striped Kin",{},"/factions/leagues-of-votann",{"title":12823,"description":13101},"factions/leagues-of-votann","8cKob3uWfbA1k6ha7eVC_FkUoh_1SNSvQEHyaZOMFw0",{"id":13111,"title":13112,"body":13113,"date":507,"description":13240,"extension":98,"faction":13241,"heroImage":510,"hex":13242,"intro":13243,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":13244,"navigation":104,"path":13245,"seo":13246,"stem":13247,"system":12819,"__hash__":13248},"factions/factions/legio-custodes.md","How to Paint Legio Custodes",{"type":8,"value":13114,"toc":13233},[13115,13118,13122,13154,13157,13161,13164,13184,13187,13191,13194,13196,13199,13201,13227],[11,13116,13117],{},"The Custodians of the Heresy are painted gold, but not the same gold as their forty-first-millennium successors. The 40k range is sculpted with deep ornament that rewards bright, high-contrast metallics; Heresy-era Custodian plate is smoother and more martial, and it looks far better burnished down - warm, deep and slightly tarnished, like something that has been polished for three hundred years rather than gilded last week.",[15,13119,13121],{"id":13120},"painting-the-auramite","Painting the auramite",[545,13123,13124,13130,13136,13142,13148],{},[37,13125,13126,13129],{},[40,13127,13128],{},"Undercoat Chaos Black."," Gold over black is darker and richer than gold over grey, which is exactly what you want here.",[37,13131,13132,13135],{},[40,13133,13134],{},"Basecoat Retributor Armour"," in two thin coats. Do not skip the second - metallics are transparent and a single coat looks grey in the shadows.",[37,13137,13138,13141],{},[40,13139,13140],{},"Shade twice."," Agrax Earthshade over the whole plate for warmth, then Nuln Oil worked into the recesses and the joins only. That second pass is what stops the gold looking like brass.",[37,13143,13144,13147],{},[40,13145,13146],{},"Layer Auric Armour Gold"," on the raised surfaces, leaving the shade in the recesses.",[37,13149,13150,13153],{},[40,13151,13152],{},"Edge highlight Liberator Gold",", then a very few points of Stormhost Silver on the hardest corners and the tips of the plate. Silver at the extremes is what tells the eye this is metal and not yellow paint.",[11,13155,13156],{},"Vallejo Old Gold and Army Painter Bright Gold work through the same sequence if you already own them.",[15,13158,13160],{"id":13159},"black-red-and-steel","Black, red and steel",[11,13162,13163],{},"Gold on gold is flat. Three supporting colours break it up.",[34,13165,13166,13172,13178],{},[37,13167,13168,13171],{},[40,13169,13170],{},"Underplate and bodyglove"," in Corvus Black, edged Eshin Grey. Everything the auramite does not cover should be near-black - it makes the gold read as armour bolted over a body rather than a gold statue.",[37,13173,13174,13177],{},[40,13175,13176],{},"Cloth, plumes and tabards"," in a deep red: Khorne Red basecoat, Carroburg Crimson in the folds, Mephiston Red on the raised cloth and a fine Evil Sunz Scarlet edge. Heresy Custodes wear darker, heavier red than the bright crests of 40k.",[37,13179,13180,13183],{},[40,13181,13182],{},"Spear hafts, blades and bolter casings"," in Leadbelcher, shaded Nuln Oil and edged Ironbreaker. Giving the weapons a cool steel against the warm auramite is the single biggest improvement you can make to one of these models.",[11,13185,13186],{},"Leather straps and grips take Rhinox Hide with a Mournfang Brown highlight. Faces, where the helm is off, go Bugman's Glow, Reikland Fleshshade, Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh.",[15,13188,13190],{"id":13189},"freehand-and-detail","Freehand and detail",[11,13192,13193],{},"Vexilla banners, tilting plates and shield faces are the place to spend your extra hour. Off-white script over Ushabti Bone with a Seraphim Sepia shade reads as parchment at tabletop distance, and a simple repeated device beats an ambitious one painted badly. Keep it to one banner per unit.",[15,13195,12766],{"id":12765},[11,13197,13198],{},"Model counts are low and the plate is large, so a Custodian sits somewhere between a squad model and a character. Expect two to three times the time of a Legion marine and plan around it - and expect resin, because much of the Heresy Custodes range is cast rather than moulded. Wash the parts in warm soapy water, scrape the mould lines and pin the heavy arms before you undercoat.",[15,13200,66],{"id":65},[34,13202,13203,13209,13215,13221],{},[37,13204,13205,13208],{},[40,13206,13207],{},"Shade harder than feels right."," Under-shaded gold looks like painted plastic; the recesses should be genuinely dark brown.",[37,13210,13211,13214],{},[40,13212,13213],{},"Keep the black black."," Grey underplate greys down the gold beside it.",[37,13216,13217,13220],{},[40,13218,13219],{},"Two metals, not one."," Warm gold and cool steel on the same model is the whole trick.",[37,13222,13223,13226],{},[40,13224,13225],{},"Resist the second bright gold."," Adding a lighter gold everywhere flattens the finish; the highlight belongs on edges only.",[11,13228,7166,13229,13232],{},[774,13230,822],{"href":13231},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=9c7420"," to swap paints between brands or push the gold warmer or cooler.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":13234},[13235,13236,13237,13238,13239],{"id":13120,"depth":89,"text":13121},{"id":13159,"depth":89,"text":13160},{"id":13189,"depth":89,"text":13190},{"id":12765,"depth":89,"text":12766},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Horus Heresy Legio Custodes - deep burnished auramite rather than bright 40k gold, with black underplate, dark red cloth and spear hafts that earn their own metal.","Legio Custodes","#9c7420","Burnished auramite, black underplate, dark red cloth",{},"/factions/legio-custodes",{"title":13112,"description":13240},"factions/legio-custodes","ahpVMbJwd0wloEm5jVAHYLDyeOP_fo4v0KrkJZfPFlA",{"id":13250,"title":13251,"body":13252,"date":507,"description":13388,"extension":98,"faction":13389,"heroImage":510,"hex":13390,"intro":13391,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":13392,"navigation":104,"path":13393,"seo":13394,"stem":13395,"system":12819,"__hash__":13396},"factions/factions/legiones-astartes.md","How to Paint Legiones Astartes",{"type":8,"value":13253,"toc":13382},[13254,13257,13261,13264,13301,13305,13313,13343,13345,13348,13350,13376],[11,13255,13256],{},"Heresy-era Space Marines are painted differently from their 40k descendants for one reason: the armour is simpler. MkII, MkIII, MkIV, MkV and MkVI plate is made of broad, unbroken surfaces with very little filigree, so there is nowhere for a wash to hide and nothing to distract the eye. Get the flat plates right and the model is finished; rush them and no amount of trim work saves it.",[15,13258,13260],{"id":13259},"the-shared-method","The shared method",[11,13262,13263],{},"Every Legion is painted the same way. Only the colour changes.",[545,13265,13266,13271,13277,13283,13289,13295],{},[37,13267,13268,13270],{},[40,13269,12721],{},", or grey for a pale livery. Chaos Black from an aerosol, or Vallejo Black through an airbrush, gives you an even surface on plates this large.",[37,13272,13273,13276],{},[40,13274,13275],{},"Basecoat in thin coats."," Two or three thinned passes beat one thick one - brush texture is the commonest fault on Heresy plate, and it is permanent once it dries.",[37,13278,13279,13282],{},[40,13280,13281],{},"Panel-line the recesses."," Rather than washing the whole model, run Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade into the joins between plates with the tip of a brush. The flats stay clean, the armour gains structure.",[37,13284,13285,13288],{},[40,13286,13287],{},"Edge highlight sparingly."," One thin line on the hard edges, in a lightened version of the base colour. Legion plate is angular; the edges do all the work.",[37,13290,13291,13294],{},[40,13292,13293],{},"Metals."," Leadbelcher for weapon casings and bare mechanisms, shaded Nuln Oil and edged Runefang Steel. Trim in Balthasar Gold, shaded Agrax Earthshade and brought up with Runelord Brass. Army Painter Plate Mail Metal and Greedy Gold are direct substitutes.",[37,13296,13297,13300],{},[40,13298,13299],{},"Weather it back."," Sponge Rhinox Hide chips on the leading edges, dot a few with Leadbelcher, then dust the boots and greaves with a Karak Stone drybrush.",[15,13302,13304],{"id":13303},"then-pick-your-legion","Then pick your Legion",[11,13306,13307,13308,13312],{},"The site holds all eighteen Heresy liveries as presets - ",[774,13309,13311],{"href":13310},"/schemes/horus-heresy","browse them on the Horus Heresy schemes page",". Several of them will surprise you if 40k is your reference point:",[34,13314,13315,13320,13326,13332,13337],{},[37,13316,13317,13319],{},[40,13318,6190],{}," wear bone-white, not rot. Zandri Dust, shaded Seraphim Sepia, layered Ushabti Bone and edged Screaming Skull, with olive plates in Castellan Green highlighted Elysian Green.",[37,13321,13322,13325],{},[40,13323,13324],{},"World Eaters"," are the War Hounds: white armour over Corax White and White Scar, with deep blue pauldrons in Macragge Blue, shaded Nuln Oil, edged Calgar Blue.",[37,13327,13328,13331],{},[40,13329,13330],{},"Thousand Sons"," are crimson and gold, not blue. Mephiston Red, shaded Carroburg Crimson, layered Evil Sunz Scarlet, with Retributor Armour trim.",[37,13333,13334,13336],{},[40,13335,5369],{}," start the Heresy in undyed grey and only later take the crimson.",[37,13338,13339,13342],{},[40,13340,13341],{},"Sons of Horus"," have no 40k equivalent at all: Incubi Darkness basecoat, Sons of Horus Green over it, Temple Guard Blue on the sharpest edges.",[15,13344,12766],{"id":12765},[11,13346,13347],{},"This is a batch-painting army, and it is quick per model once the colour is settled - a squad of twenty moves through each step in one sitting. What costs time is the plastic-and-resin mix: Heresy ranges lean heavily on resin for characters, Terminators and heavy support, so budget an evening for washing, mould lines and pinning before a brush touches anything. Uniformity is the goal, so decide your recipe on one test model and then never change it mid-army.",[15,13349,66],{"id":65},[34,13351,13352,13358,13364,13370],{},[37,13353,13354,13357],{},[40,13355,13356],{},"Thin your basecoat."," Flat plates show every ridge of thick paint at arm's length.",[37,13359,13360,13363],{},[40,13361,13362],{},"Line, don't drown."," An all-over wash on MkIV armour leaves tide marks across the flats.",[37,13365,13366,13369],{},[40,13367,13368],{},"Transfers over freehand."," Legion iconography is repeated hundreds of times; decals set with gloss and matt varnish are faster and neater than painting it twice.",[37,13371,13372,13375],{},[40,13373,13374],{},"Weather to a consistent level."," A squad where one model is filthy and the rest are clean reads as unfinished, not as a campaign force.",[11,13377,7166,13378,13381],{},[774,13379,822],{"href":13380},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=4f545a"," to swap paints between brands or dial in your own Legion's colour.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":13383},[13384,13385,13386,13387],{"id":13259,"depth":89,"text":13260},{"id":13303,"depth":89,"text":13304},{"id":12765,"depth":89,"text":12766},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Horus Heresy Legiones Astartes - the shared method for MkII to MkVI power armour, plus how the eighteen Legion liveries differ from their 40k descendants.","Legiones Astartes","#4f545a","One method for eighteen Legions, then pick your colour",{},"/factions/legiones-astartes",{"title":13251,"description":13388},"factions/legiones-astartes","hKOtyan-5m66IENMXe6Xw-g1YAkLYs8jDPc1BsRjLPk",{"id":13398,"title":13399,"body":13400,"date":96,"description":13820,"extension":98,"faction":13821,"heroImage":13822,"hex":13823,"intro":13824,"lastUpdated":11290,"meta":13825,"navigation":104,"path":13826,"seo":13827,"stem":13828,"system":1667,"__hash__":13829},"factions/factions/lumineth-realm-lords.md","How to Paint Lumineth Realm-lords",{"type":8,"value":13401,"toc":13808},[13402,13405,13408,13410,13413,13417,13420,13445,13457,13479,13496,13500,13506,13530,13538,13541,13545,13548,13570,13577,13588,13592,13595,13630,13637,13641,13644,13688,13692,13695,13718,13726,13730,13733,13745,13747,13756,13758,13796],[11,13403,13404],{},"The Lumineth Realm-lords are high-fantasy aelves, and their painting reflects it: clean, elegant and bright, built on aether-gold and white with pastel accents. They reward neat, controlled work over weathering - the opposite of a grimy Nurgle or Ork army - and they punish a heavy hand more than almost any other range in Age of Sigmar.",[11,13406,13407],{},"They are also a bigger job than they look. A Lumineth model is mostly two large, unforgiving surfaces - a sheet of gold and a sheet of white cloth - with very little detail to hide behind. Settle those two recipes before you touch a squad and the rest of the army is decoration.",[15,13409,18],{"id":17},[11,13411,13412],{},"Pale aether-gold armour, crisp white robes, cold pale skin, and soft pastel accents - sky blue, mint, lilac - on cloth and crests. The whole force should look refined and luminous: smooth colours, sharp edges, no grime anywhere. Where other armies get their interest from contrast, Lumineth get theirs from cleanliness.",[15,13414,13416],{"id":13415},"the-aether-gold","The aether-gold",[11,13418,13419],{},"Lumineth gold is paler and colder than the warm bronze-gold on, say, a dwarf army. Aim for something closer to polished brass than to treasure.",[545,13421,13422,13427,13435,13440],{},[37,13423,549,13424,13426],{},[40,13425,1409],{},", two thin coats. Gold is a pigment-heavy paint and one coat over black will look grey.",[37,13428,1790,13429,13431,13432,13434],{},[40,13430,1046],{}," rather than ",[40,13433,559],{},". The flesh shade keeps the metal warm and clean; the brown one dirties it, which is exactly what you do not want here.",[37,13436,567,13437,13439],{},[40,13438,6973],{}," across the raised plates, leaving the shade in the recesses.",[37,13441,6466,13442,13444],{},[40,13443,6260],{}," on the outer corners only - a fine line, not a full edge.",[11,13446,13447,13448,13450,13451,13453,13454,13456],{},"For the pale, almost white-gold look on characters, run ",[40,13449,1414],{}," over the ",[40,13452,6973],{}," step and take the silver edge further. ",[40,13455,691],{}," underneath instead of Retributor gives a deeper, older metal that suits Alarith stone-warriors.",[11,13458,13459,13462,13463,5749,13465,13468,13469,13471,13472,13474,13475,13478],{},[40,13460,13461],{},"Speed route."," Undercoat ",[40,13464,301],{},[40,13466,13467],{},"Sigmarite"," contrast, then edge ",[40,13470,6260],{},". It is one coat and a highlight, and on rank-and-file Vanari it is very hard to tell from the layered version at arm's length. ",[40,13473,12129],{}," thinned with ",[40,13476,13477],{},"Contrast Medium"," over the same undercoat gives a warmer, more amber armour if you prefer it.",[11,13480,11050,13481,442,13484,6933,13487,442,13489,1535,13492,13495],{},[40,13482,13483],{},"Polished Gold",[40,13485,13486],{},"Glorious Gold",[40,13488,12937],{},[40,13490,13491],{},"Bright Gold",[40,13493,13494],{},"Shining Silver"," as the edge.",[15,13497,13499],{"id":13498},"white-cloth","White cloth",[11,13501,13502,13503,13505],{},"White is a colour you build up to, never a colour you paint on. Starting from ",[40,13504,348],{}," guarantees a chalky, streaky robe.",[545,13507,13508,13512,13520,13525],{},[37,13509,549,13510,578],{},[40,13511,305],{},[37,13513,13514,13515,1047,13517,13519],{},"Shade the deep folds only with heavily thinned ",[40,13516,1197],{},[40,13518,669],{}," if you want the white to read cool blue.",[37,13521,567,13522,13524],{},[40,13523,341],{}," over everything but the recesses.",[37,13526,1060,13527,13529],{},[40,13528,348],{}," along the tops of the folds and the outer hem.",[11,13531,13532,13533,1325,13535,13537],{},"The one-coat version is ",[40,13534,7747],{},[40,13536,305],{},", and it is genuinely good on a Vanari robe - the pigment settles into the fold lines and does the shading for you. Two thin coats if the first looks patchy.",[11,13539,13540],{},"Keep the shading subtle. The commonest Lumineth mistake by a distance is over-shading the white until the army looks grey; if you can see where the wash stopped, it went on too thick.",[15,13542,13544],{"id":13543},"skin-and-hair","Skin and hair",[11,13546,13547],{},"Aelf skin should be pale and cold rather than pink:",[545,13549,13550,13555,13561],{},[37,13551,13552,13554],{},[40,13553,1063],{}," basecoat.",[37,13556,13557,13558,13560],{},"Thinned ",[40,13559,1046],{}," in the recesses only - do not wash the whole face.",[37,13562,13563,13566,13567,13569],{},[40,13564,13565],{},"Flayed One Flesh"," on the raised areas, then a touch of ",[40,13568,584],{}," on the brow, nose and cheekbones.",[11,13571,13572,353,13574,13576],{},[40,13573,10975],{},[40,13575,7747],{}," is the colder, more spectral alternative, and it suits the Scinari mages.",[11,13578,13579,13580,376,13582,13584,13585,13587],{},"White hair is the default and it is the same discipline as the cloth: ",[40,13581,344],{},[40,13583,7053],{}," drybrushed along the strands, then ",[40,13586,348],{}," on the outermost hairs only. Painting hair with the direction of the braid rather than across it does most of the work.",[15,13589,13591],{"id":13590},"pastel-accents","Pastel accents",[11,13593,13594],{},"The soft pastel robes, sashes and crests are what give Lumineth their serene character, and mixing them yourself is easier than hunting for the right pot. Take an accent colour and add white until it is barely saturated:",[34,13596,13597,13610,13620],{},[37,13598,13599,438,13602,1535,13604,13606,13607,13609],{},[40,13600,13601],{},"Sky blue",[40,13603,388],{},[40,13605,348],{}," mixed in, or ",[40,13608,676],{}," straight from the pot.",[37,13611,13612,438,13615,13617,13618,578],{},[40,13613,13614],{},"Mint",[40,13616,6671],{}," lightened with ",[40,13619,348],{},[37,13621,13622,438,13625,1047,13627,13629],{},[40,13623,13624],{},"Lilac",[40,13626,4950],{},[40,13628,4902],{}," for the palest version.",[11,13631,13632,13633,13636],{},"Whichever you choose, use ",[2334,13634,13635],{},"one"," accent family across the army. Three pastels on one model reads as confetti; one pastel repeated on twenty models reads as a nation.",[15,13638,13640],{"id":13639},"the-vanari-the-alarith-and-the-hurakan","The Vanari, the Alarith and the Hurakan",[11,13642,13643],{},"The range divides into temples, and each one wants a slightly different emphasis:",[34,13645,13646,13652,13671,13682],{},[37,13647,13648,13651],{},[40,13649,13650],{},"Vanari"," - the line troops (Auralan Wardens and Sentinels, Bladelords, Dawnriders). Gold armour, white robes, one pastel accent. This is the recipe above, unchanged, and it is most of your army.",[37,13653,13654,13657,13658,12523,13660,13662,13663,345,13665,13667,13668,13670],{},[40,13655,13656],{},"Alarith"," - the mountain temple (Stoneguard, Stonemage, Avalenor). Bring stone into the palette: ",[40,13659,305],{},[40,13661,1197],{}," in the cracks, drybrush ",[40,13664,1311],{},[40,13666,1019],{}," on the sharp broken edges. A wash of ",[40,13669,1177],{}," in the deepest crevices makes the rock look ancient rather than new.",[37,13672,13673,13676,13677,1325,13679,13681],{},[40,13674,13675],{},"Hurakan"," - the wind temple (Windchargers, Windmage, Sevireth). Push the accents cooler and lighter: ",[40,13678,10876],{},[40,13680,301],{}," on the trailing cloth reads as moving air, and it takes one coat.",[37,13683,13684,13687],{},[40,13685,13686],{},"Scinari"," - the mages (Cathallar, Calligrave, Loreseeker). These are your showpieces; spend the extra time on the skin and the gems.",[15,13689,13691],{"id":13690},"gems-lamps-and-aetherquartz","Gems, lamps and aetherquartz",[11,13693,13694],{},"The glowing stones are the one place the army gets a saturated colour, so make them count.",[545,13696,13697,13702,13707,13713],{},[37,13698,13699,13700,578],{},"Basecoat the stone ",[40,13701,388],{},[37,13703,567,13704,13706],{},[40,13705,676],{}," over everything but the deepest corner.",[37,13708,13709,13710,13712],{},"A dot of ",[40,13711,348],{},", offset from centre.",[37,13714,1067,13715,13717],{},[40,13716,388],{}," onto the surrounding gold so the gem appears to be lit.",[11,13719,13720,13721,302,13723,13725],{},"Two or three per model is plenty. ",[40,13722,680],{},[40,13724,684],{}," in place of the blue gives a colder Ymetrican feel.",[15,13727,13729],{"id":13728},"bases","Bases",[11,13731,13732],{},"Pale bases, always. A white-and-gold army on dark earth looks like it has been dropped in mud.",[11,13734,13735,1162,13737,13739,13740,1995,13742,13744],{},[40,13736,11206],{},[40,13738,577],{},", with a few tufts, gives a bright sandy base in two steps. For the mountain nations, broken slate painted ",[40,13741,305],{},[40,13743,1311],{}," ties the models to the Alarith stone.",[15,13746,8818],{"id":8817},[11,13748,13749,13750,13752,13753,13755],{},"Lumineth are slower per model than a horde army but there are fewer of them, and the two contrast shortcuts - ",[40,13751,13467],{}," on the armour, ",[40,13754,7747],{}," on the robes - collapse most of the work. A realistic plan is to batch the Vanari with contrast, then hand-layer the Alarith and the characters, where the extra hours actually show.",[15,13757,66],{"id":65},[34,13759,13760,13766,13772,13778,13784,13790],{},[37,13761,13762,13765],{},[40,13763,13764],{},"Keep it clean."," No weathering, no chipping, no mud. Lumineth should look immaculate.",[37,13767,13768,13771],{},[40,13769,13770],{},"Shade the white with a whisper."," A light cool wash in the recesses is enough; anything heavier turns the army grey.",[37,13773,13774,13777],{},[40,13775,13776],{},"Reikland, not Agrax, on the gold."," The brown shade is what makes a Lumineth force look like a Stormcast one.",[37,13779,13780,13783],{},[40,13781,13782],{},"Pastels, not primaries."," Mix white into your accent colour until it is almost too pale, then use it.",[37,13785,13786,13789],{},[40,13787,13788],{},"One accent per army."," Pick a nation's colour and repeat it.",[37,13791,13792,13795],{},[40,13793,13794],{},"Two thin coats on the gold."," It is the one paint on this model that genuinely needs them.",[11,13797,13798,13799,13803,13804,13807],{},"Every Lumineth Realm-lords kit and box we can price - the Vanari regiments, the Alarith temple and the character models - is on the ",[774,13800,13802],{"href":13801},"/armies/lumineth-realm-lords","Lumineth Realm-lords army page",". When the palette is where you want it, ",[774,13805,822],{"href":13806},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=c9a24b"," to swap paints between brands or shift the accent to another nation.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":13809},[13810,13811,13812,13813,13814,13815,13816,13817,13818,13819],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":13415,"depth":89,"text":13416},{"id":13498,"depth":89,"text":13499},{"id":13543,"depth":89,"text":13544},{"id":13590,"depth":89,"text":13591},{"id":13639,"depth":89,"text":13640},{"id":13690,"depth":89,"text":13691},{"id":13728,"depth":89,"text":13729},{"id":8817,"depth":89,"text":8818},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Lumineth Realm-lords - aether-gold armour, clean white cloth, pale aelf skin and pastel accents, with named pots, speed routes and per-temple recipes.","Lumineth Realm-lords","/images/factions/lumineth-realm-lords.webp","#c9a24b","Clean white, gold and pastel cloth - elegant high aelves",{},"/factions/lumineth-realm-lords",{"title":13399,"description":13820},"factions/lumineth-realm-lords","pIj09bL_yULpmgcdCtL940awsddzvTOh16yu6tdbMlg",{"id":13831,"title":13832,"body":13833,"date":96,"description":13910,"extension":98,"faction":13911,"heroImage":13912,"hex":13913,"intro":13914,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":13915,"navigation":104,"path":13916,"seo":13917,"stem":13918,"system":1667,"__hash__":13919},"factions/factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle.md","How to Paint Maggotkin of Nurgle",{"type":8,"value":13834,"toc":13904},[13835,13838,13840,13843,13847,13858,13862,13882,13884],[11,13836,13837],{},"The Maggotkin of Nurgle are the Age of Sigmar daemons and rotbringers of the Plague God - all decay, rust, slime and exposed guts. Like Death Guard in 40k, mess is the goal, which makes them a wonderfully forgiving and fun army to paint.",[15,13839,18],{"id":17},[11,13841,13842],{},"Pallid, sickly green or grey-green rotting flesh and armour, rusted iron, verdigris on bronze, and plenty of wet, glossy gore and slime. Every imperfection just reads as more rot, so heavy washes and uneven layers are a feature, not a bug.",[15,13844,13846],{"id":13845},"painting-the-rotten-flesh","Painting the rotten flesh",[34,13848,13849,13852,13855],{},[37,13850,13851],{},"Use the ramp above for the muted green-grey base.",[37,13853,13854],{},"A flesh or green contrast over a light undercoat shades the bloated, lumpy forms automatically.",[37,13856,13857],{},"Stipple and glaze patches of pink, purple and yellow for sores, bruising and pus.",[15,13859,13861],{"id":13860},"rust-slime-and-guts","Rust, slime and guts",[34,13863,13864,13870,13876],{},[37,13865,13866,13869],{},[40,13867,13868],{},"Rust"," - stipple orange and brown on metal, with dark textured washes in the recesses.",[37,13871,13872,13875],{},[40,13873,13874],{},"Verdigris"," - pale turquoise on bronze trim.",[37,13877,13878,13881],{},[40,13879,13880],{},"Slime and gore"," - gloss technical paints (green slime, red blood) on mouths, wounds and trailing entrails give the wet, fresh-rot sheen that makes the army look genuinely diseased.",[15,13883,66],{"id":65},[34,13885,13886,13892,13898],{},[37,13887,13888,13891],{},[40,13889,13890],{},"Let washes pool."," Pooling is grime here - lean in.",[37,13893,13894,13897],{},[40,13895,13896],{},"Matt body, gloss gore."," The contrast between dusty flesh and wet slime is the whole look.",[37,13899,13900,13903],{},[40,13901,13902],{},"Vary the rot."," Mix greens, yellows and purples so the decay looks organic.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":13905},[13906,13907,13908,13909],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":13845,"depth":89,"text":13846},{"id":13860,"depth":89,"text":13861},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Maggotkin of Nurgle - rotting green flesh, rusted armour, slime and gore, with contrast paints doing the heavy lifting on the texture-rich models.","Maggotkin of Nurgle","/images/factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle.webp","#8a8c5a","Rotting flesh, rust and slime made easy with washes",{},"/factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle",{"title":13832,"description":13910},"factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle","1vf0gS3rRYmoqRejINqIkT3tE6dfxgClbqg6YM1TT_U",{"id":13921,"title":13922,"body":13923,"date":833,"description":14151,"extension":98,"faction":14152,"heroImage":510,"hex":14153,"intro":14154,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":14155,"navigation":104,"path":14156,"seo":14157,"stem":14158,"system":842,"__hash__":14159},"factions/factions/malstrain-genestealers.md","How to Paint Malstrain Genestealers",{"type":8,"value":13924,"toc":14143},[13925,13928,13931,13933,13936,13940,13974,13987,13999,14003,14006,14027,14040,14044,14056,14065,14071,14075,14078,14106,14108,14137],[11,13926,13927],{},"The Malstrain are the Hive Secundus strain, and they should not look like a freshly hatched brood. Everything about them wants to read as old: a purple carapace gone slightly dusty, flesh with no blood in it, and a layer of settled grime up the legs. That last part is the bit most painters skip, and it is the difference between a clean tyranid and something that has been in a sealed dome since the dome was sealed.",[11,13929,13930],{},"They are also a quick gang. Chitin takes washes and drybrushing beautifully, there is almost no trim, and the models are large enough that the work shows.",[15,13932,18],{"id":17},[11,13934,13935],{},"A cool purple carapace that drops towards blue in the shadows, set against pallid grey-pink flesh with no warmth in it. Bone talons and teeth give the third value. Then dirt: dry, pale, powdery filth clinging to the lower limbs and the undersides. Two of those three are colour decisions; the third is a texture decision, and it is the one that sells the model.",[15,13937,13939],{"id":13938},"the-purple-carapace","The purple carapace",[545,13941,13942,13947,13955,13960,13965],{},[37,13943,549,13944,13946],{},[40,13945,4940],{}," over a black undercoat, two thin coats.",[37,13948,1790,13949,13951,13952,13954],{},[40,13950,4884],{}," in the plate joins. Where you want the shadows colder, use ",[40,13953,669],{}," instead - a blue shadow under a purple plate is what makes chitin look hard.",[37,13956,567,13957,13959],{},[40,13958,4943],{}," across the raised carapace, keeping the shade in the seams.",[37,13961,7487,13962,13964],{},[40,13963,4946],{}," along the ridges and the leading edge of each plate.",[37,13966,13967,13968,13970,13971,13973],{},"On the biggest surfaces only, add a whisper of ",[40,13969,4946],{}," mixed with ",[40,13972,348],{}," on the sharpest corners.",[11,13975,13976,5746,13978,5749,13980,13983,13984,13986],{},[40,13977,5745],{},[40,13979,305],{},[40,13981,13982],{},"Shyish Purple"," contrast, then drybrush ",[40,13985,4946],{}," over the whole carapace. The contrast does the shading and the drybrush does the highlight, and on textured chitin nobody can tell you did it in two steps. This is the route for a full brood.",[11,13988,5806,13989,442,13992,2730,13995,13998],{},[40,13990,13991],{},"Royal Purple",[40,13993,13994],{},"Warlord Purple",[40,13996,13997],{},"Hive Dweller Purple",", cover the same ground.",[15,14000,14002],{"id":14001},"the-pallid-flesh","The pallid flesh",[11,14004,14005],{},"The trap here is painting normal skin. Malstrain flesh is bloodless and slightly grey.",[545,14007,14008,14012,14017,14022],{},[37,14009,549,14010,578],{},[40,14011,6376],{},[37,14013,1790,14014,14016],{},[40,14015,4884],{},", not a flesh wash. Purple in the recesses keeps the skin cold and ties it to the carapace.",[37,14018,567,14019,14021],{},[40,14020,584],{}," over the raised muscle.",[37,14023,1060,14024,14026],{},[40,14025,348],{}," very sparingly on the brow, knuckles and the tops of tensed limbs.",[11,14028,5806,14029,5809,14031,612,14034,14036,14037,14039],{},[40,14030,10051],{},[40,14032,14033],{},"Corpse Pale",[40,14035,10221],{}," work as substitutes. If a model looks too healthy, glaze thinned ",[40,14038,4884],{}," over the flesh again rather than repainting it.",[15,14041,14043],{"id":14042},"talons-teeth-and-eyes","Talons, teeth and eyes",[11,14045,14046,14047,1903,14049,317,14051,345,14053,14055],{},"Claws, teeth and the ribbed underbelly plates: ",[40,14048,712],{},[40,14050,559],{},[40,14052,590],{},[40,14054,577],{}," on the very tips. A yellowed talon against a purple plate is a strong contrast and worth doing carefully - there are only a dozen of them per model.",[11,14057,14058,14059,14061,14062,14064],{},"Mouths and tongues: ",[40,14060,375],{}," into the recess, ",[40,14063,1370],{}," on the tongue, and a gloss coat so the mouth stays wet against an otherwise dusty model.",[11,14066,14067,14068,14070],{},"Eyes are simplest left blind: a solid dot of ",[40,14069,577],{}," with no pupil reads as a thing that hunts by scent, which is exactly right for the strain.",[15,14072,14074],{"id":14073},"hive-secundus-grime","Hive Secundus grime",[11,14076,14077],{},"Do this last, over everything, or it will not look like dirt.",[34,14079,14080,14086,14091,14097],{},[37,14081,14082,14083,14085],{},"Drag thinned ",[40,14084,598],{}," upwards from the feet across the lower legs and the underside of the body, keeping it patchy.",[37,14087,5063,14088,14090],{},[40,14089,1151],{}," into the deepest crevices around the joints and claws.",[37,14092,14093,14094,14096],{},"Dust the whole lower third with a very light drybrush of ",[40,14095,590],{}," - dry, pale powder rather than wet mud.",[37,14098,14099,14100,14102,14103,14105],{},"Base to match with ",[40,14101,8146],{}," or a cracked ",[40,14104,768],{}," panel, and let a little of the same dust ride up onto the model.",[15,14107,66],{"id":65},[34,14109,14110,14116,14122,14128],{},[37,14111,14112,14115],{},[40,14113,14114],{},"Keep the flesh colder than you want to."," Every instinct says add pink. Resist it; the purple shade is what makes the model look wrong in the right way.",[37,14117,14118,14121],{},[40,14119,14120],{},"Drybrush the carapace, do not layer it."," These sculpts are covered in ridges. A drybrush catches them all in one pass and layering them takes twenty times as long for a worse result.",[37,14123,14124,14127],{},[40,14125,14126],{},"Grime the undersides, not the tops."," Dirt settles and splashes upwards. Dust on the top of a shoulder plate reads as a mistake.",[37,14129,14130,14133,14134,14136],{},[40,14131,14132],{},"Vary the brood."," Push one or two models bluer with an extra ",[40,14135,669],{}," glaze so the group does not look moulded from one piece of plastic.",[11,14138,2064,14139,14142],{},[774,14140,822],{"href":14141},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=6B3FA0"," to swap brands or push the carapace further towards blue.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":14144},[14145,14146,14147,14148,14149,14150],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":13938,"depth":89,"text":13939},{"id":14001,"depth":89,"text":14002},{"id":14042,"depth":89,"text":14043},{"id":14073,"depth":89,"text":14074},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting Malstrain Genestealers for Necromunda - purple-blue carapace, cold pallid mutant flesh, bone talons and a century of Hive Secundus grime.","Malstrain Genestealers","#6B3FA0","Purple carapace, dead-pale flesh and dust that has settled for a hundred years",{},"/factions/malstrain-genestealers",{"title":13922,"description":14151},"factions/malstrain-genestealers","ohQun3muAhmU_QvWDk0DaL1vGqKz5vUXbK-4NFReIoc",{"id":14161,"title":14162,"body":14163,"date":507,"description":14279,"extension":98,"faction":14280,"heroImage":510,"hex":14281,"intro":14282,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":14283,"navigation":104,"path":14284,"seo":14285,"stem":14286,"system":12819,"__hash__":14287},"factions/factions/mechanicum.md","How to Paint Mechanicum",{"type":8,"value":14164,"toc":14272},[14165,14168,14172,14175,14189,14192,14196,14199,14223,14226,14230,14233,14235,14238,14240,14266],[11,14166,14167],{},"The Heresy-era Mechanicum is a heavier, more industrial thing than its forty-first-millennium descendant. Where an Adeptus Mechanicus force is largely robed infantry, a Taghmata is mostly machinery: battle-automata, Thallax, Krios engines and the odd cluster of tech-thralls between them. That changes how you paint it. Most of your surface area is metal and armour plate, not cloth, so the brass and the grime matter more than the robes do.",[15,14169,14171],{"id":14170},"the-machine-red","The machine red",[11,14173,14174],{},"The red should read as a painted plate on a machine, not as fabric.",[545,14176,14177,14180,14183,14186],{},[37,14178,14179],{},"Undercoat Chaos Black and basecoat Mephiston Red in two thin coats. Army Painter Dragon Red is a close alternative.",[37,14181,14182],{},"Shade with Agrax Earthshade rather than a red wash - the brown pushes the finish towards oxide and industrial paint. Carroburg Crimson in the deepest recesses only if you want a richer look on a character.",[37,14184,14185],{},"Re-layer the flats with Mephiston Red, then edge highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet.",[37,14187,14188],{},"A last, very sparing touch of Wild Rider Red on the sharpest corners.",[11,14190,14191],{},"Robes on tech-priests and thralls take the same colours, but shade them harder and let the folds go almost black.",[15,14193,14195],{"id":14194},"brass-steel-and-verdigris","Brass, steel and verdigris",[11,14197,14198],{},"This is where a Mechanicum force is won.",[34,14200,14201,14206,14212,14218],{},[37,14202,14203,14205],{},[40,14204,12168],{}," Balthasar Gold basecoat, Agrax Earthshade, then Runelord Brass on the raised work and a touch of Sycorax Bronze at the very edges. Warm and dirty, never bright.",[37,14207,14208,14211],{},[40,14209,14210],{},"Steel:"," Leadbelcher, shaded Nuln Oil, edged Ironbreaker. Pistons, hydraulics, gun barrels and the exposed skeleton of an automaton.",[37,14213,14214,14217],{},[40,14215,14216],{},"Copper accents:"," Hashut Copper on cabling ferrules and coolant lines gives a third metal to separate the other two.",[37,14219,14220,14222],{},[40,14221,6140],{}," a thin, broken stipple of Nihilakh Oxide where the brass meets a recess. Sparingly. It is a seasoning, not a coat.",[11,14224,14225],{},"Cabling in Corvus Black with an Eshin Grey drybrush; parchment and data-slates in Zandri Dust, Seraphim Sepia, Screaming Skull. Lenses and eye clusters go Mephiston Red into Evil Sunz Scarlet with a single White Scar dot off-centre - or Warpstone Glow if you want the cooler, colder machine look.",[15,14227,14229],{"id":14228},"grime","Grime",[11,14231,14232],{},"Working machinery is dirty. Stipple Typhus Corrosion around vents, rivets and foot joints, then dab Ryza Rust into the middle of it while it is still tacky. Drag thinned Agrax Earthshade downwards from every bolt and hinge so the streaks follow gravity. Finish with a dusty Karak Stone drybrush on the lower legs and track guards, and a Stirland Battlemire base to tie the thing to the ground.",[15,14234,12766],{"id":12765},[11,14236,14237],{},"A Taghmata is fast per point of surface area and slow per model. Battle-automata are big, so a squad of three covers a lot of table quickly, but each one is a small vehicle's worth of painting, and much of the range is resin - so allow real time for washing, mould-line scraping and pinning arms and weapon mounts before you start. Tech-thralls, by contrast, batch-paint in an evening.",[15,14239,66],{"id":65},[34,14241,14242,14248,14254,14260],{},[37,14243,14244,14247],{},[40,14245,14246],{},"Brown-shade the red."," A red wash over red keeps the finish looking like cloth; Agrax Earthshade makes it look like a machine.",[37,14249,14250,14253],{},[40,14251,14252],{},"Three metals, not one."," Brass, steel and copper doing different jobs is what separates Mechanicum from a generic red robot.",[37,14255,14256,14259],{},[40,14257,14258],{},"Grime downwards."," Streaks that run in random directions look like mistakes; streaks that all run down look like weather.",[37,14261,14262,14265],{},[40,14263,14264],{},"Do not over-verdigris."," A green cast over every brass surface reads as ancient ruin, not as an active war machine.",[11,14267,7166,14268,14271],{},[774,14269,822],{"href":14270},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=7d1a14"," to swap paints between brands or shift the red towards oxide or crimson.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":14273},[14274,14275,14276,14277,14278],{"id":14170,"depth":89,"text":14171},{"id":14194,"depth":89,"text":14195},{"id":14228,"depth":89,"text":14229},{"id":12765,"depth":89,"text":12766},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Heresy-era Mechanicum - deep machine red, tarnished brass, oily steel and the grime that makes a Taghmata battle-automata force look like working machinery.","Mechanicum","#7d1a14","Machine red, tarnished brass and honest engine grime",{},"/factions/mechanicum",{"title":14162,"description":14279},"factions/mechanicum","Dnq_xMI4zFFBa7tF-hEIzGJyo5BrPhn-QPUmimSBafI",{"id":14289,"title":14290,"body":14291,"date":11290,"description":14824,"extension":98,"faction":14825,"heroImage":510,"hex":14826,"intro":14827,"lastUpdated":11290,"meta":14828,"navigation":104,"path":14829,"seo":14830,"stem":14831,"system":842,"__hash__":14832},"factions/factions/necromunda-hired-guns.md","How to Paint Necromunda Hired Guns and Bounty Hunters",{"type":8,"value":14292,"toc":14813},[14293,14300,14306,14312,14314,14317,14324,14328,14331,14363,14367,14370,14401,14414,14429,14433,14436,14476,14491,14495,14498,14526,14540,14544,14547,14652,14656,14663,14680,14697,14701,14704,14747,14750,14752,14796],[11,14294,14295,14296,14299],{},"Every other entry in this section is a gang. This one is not. Bounty hunters, hangers-on, brutes, exotic beasts, hive scum, dramatis personae and Merchant Guild delegations belong to no House - the rules sell them as models ",[40,14297,14298],{},"any"," gang may hire, and Games Workshop's own copy is explicit that the ex-Orlock and ex-Goliath hunters left their House allegiances behind them.",[11,14301,14302,14303],{},"So there is no gang colour to get right, and no batch to keep consistent. What you have instead is a shelf of one-off characters, bought a model or two at a time, and a different painting problem: ",[40,14304,14305],{},"how do you make forty unrelated individuals look like they inhabit the same world?",[11,14307,14308,14309,578],{},"The answer is not a shared colour. It is a shared ",[2334,14310,14311],{},"texture",[15,14313,18],{"id":17},[11,14315,14316],{},"Scavenged. Everything a hired gun wears was taken from somewhere else and has been repaired at least once: a weathered olive-drab coat over mismatched armour plates, webbing and kit-bags in three different browns, a weapon better maintained than anything a ganger carries, and dust from the boots to the knee. The olive drab is the closest thing this heading has to a colour, and it is a default rather than a rule - a coat, a bedroll, a satchel, a scrap of tarpaulin.",[11,14318,14319,14320,14323],{},"Where a gang reads as a uniform, these should read as a ",[40,14321,14322],{},"profession",". The gear is good. The clothes are whatever was to hand.",[15,14325,14327],{"id":14326},"the-three-rules-that-hold-them-together","The three rules that hold them together",[11,14329,14330],{},"Follow these and every character can have a completely different palette without the collection falling apart.",[545,14332,14333,14342,14357],{},[37,14334,14335,14338,14339,578],{},[40,14336,14337],{},"One basing recipe, applied identically to every model."," This does more work than anything else on the page. Grey plascrete, the same grit, the same rust spill, the same rim colour. Necromunda happens indoors; see ",[774,14340,14341],{"href":776},"basing miniatures",[37,14343,14344,14347,14348,14350,14351,14353,14354,14356],{},[40,14345,14346],{},"One grime recipe."," Whatever you use for dust and wear - a stipple of ",[40,14349,1151],{}," and a scrubbed-back drybrush of ",[40,14352,1155],{},", dust drybrushed up from the base in ",[40,14355,590],{}," - use exactly the same one on every figure. Shared dirt reads as a shared place.",[37,14358,14359,14362],{},[40,14360,14361],{},"One value discipline."," Keep every character mid-to-dark with a single bright note. A hired gun in three saturated colours looks like a fantasy adventurer; a hired gun in five browns with one red rag looks like he lives here.",[15,14364,14366],{"id":14365},"the-scavenged-coat-the-drab-core","The scavenged coat: the drab core",[11,14368,14369],{},"The recipe most of these models want somewhere on them.",[545,14371,14372,14377,14385,14390,14395],{},[37,14373,14374,14375,553],{},"Undercoat grey or black, then basecoat ",[40,14376,2492],{},[37,14378,1790,14379,14381,14382,14384],{},[40,14380,559],{}," across the whole garment. ",[40,14383,4846],{}," instead if you want the drab greener and colder.",[37,14386,567,14387,14389],{},[40,14388,970],{}," on the raised folds, keeping it off the deep creases.",[37,14391,1060,14392,14394],{},[40,14393,590],{}," on the top edge of each fold, the shoulders and the leading edge of the coat.",[37,14396,14397,14398,14400],{},"Stipple a very little ",[40,14399,577],{}," onto the elbows, cuffs and the seat of the coat - the places cloth goes pale before it wears through.",[11,14402,7492,14403,442,14405,14407,14408,442,14410,14413],{},[40,14404,4490],{},[40,14406,1810],{},"; Army Painter Fanatic runs ",[40,14409,4250],{},[40,14411,14412],{},"Desert Yellow",". Either sits in the same family.",[11,14415,14416,5746,14418,5749,14420,302,14422,14425,14426,14428],{},[40,14417,5745],{},[40,14419,301],{},[40,14421,2523],{},[40,14423,14424],{},"Creed Camo"," contrast, then re-highlight the top of each fold with ",[40,14427,590],{},". On a heavily draped model the contrast pools exactly where you would have shaded.",[15,14430,14432],{"id":14431},"leather-webbing-and-kit","Leather, webbing and kit",[11,14434,14435],{},"Half of every hired gun is straps. Vary the browns deliberately - a leather coat, a canvas satchel and a webbing belt should not be the same colour, because nothing on the model was bought together.",[34,14437,14438,14452,14466],{},[37,14439,14440,812,14443,666,14445,317,14447,7079,14449,14451],{},[40,14441,14442],{},"Dark leather:",[40,14444,712],{},[40,14446,559],{},[40,14448,725],{},[40,14450,988],{}," on the strap edges and buckle surrounds.",[37,14453,14454,812,14457,666,14459,317,14461,1906,14463,14465],{},[40,14455,14456],{},"Canvas and rope:",[40,14458,552],{},[40,14460,559],{},[40,14462,590],{},[40,14464,577],{}," on the weave.",[37,14467,14468,812,14471,442,14473,14475],{},[40,14469,14470],{},"Worn tan gear:",[40,14472,963],{},[40,14474,970],{}," - useful for a third brown that reads as neither leather nor canvas.",[11,14477,14478,14479,14481,14482,14484,14485,14487,14488,14490],{},"Contrast routes over ",[40,14480,301],{},": ",[40,14483,646],{}," for tan, ",[40,14486,1177],{}," for dark leather, ",[40,14489,638],{}," for canvas and rope. Three different pots over one undercoat is the whole variety problem solved in an evening.",[15,14492,14494],{"id":14493},"weapons-better-kept-than-the-gangs","Weapons: better kept than the gang's",[11,14496,14497],{},"This is the detail that sells the profession. A ganger's gun is battered; a bounty hunter's is maintained.",[545,14499,14500,14504,14509,14514,14520],{},[37,14501,14502,13554],{},[40,14503,1144],{},[37,14505,14506,14508],{},[40,14507,356],{},", into the recesses rather than slopped over the whole barrel.",[37,14510,567,14511,14513],{},[40,14512,5036],{}," on the body of the weapon.",[37,14515,14516,14517,14519],{},"Edge ",[40,14518,410],{}," on the barrel lip, the sights, the ejection port and the blade edges.",[37,14521,14522,14523,14525],{},"Stop there. No corrosion on the working parts - keep ",[40,14524,1151],{}," for the armour plates, the kit and the boots.",[11,14527,14528,14529,666,14531,7079,14533,14535,14536,442,14538,578],{},"Brass and bronze fittings, of which there are many: ",[40,14530,1563],{},[40,14532,559],{},[40,14534,698],{},". For anything that should look valuable rather than industrial - a Guild delegate's chain of office, a trophy - ",[40,14537,691],{},[40,14539,1573],{},[15,14541,14543],{"id":14542},"skin-and-the-several-kinds-of-it","Skin, and the several kinds of it",[11,14545,14546],{},"This heading has more non-human models than any other in the game, which is a gift when you are trying to make individuals.",[34,14548,14549,14569,14585,14597,14615,14631],{},[37,14550,14551,438,14554,345,14556,666,14558,1906,14560,9995,14562,302,14564,329,14567,578],{},[40,14552,14553],{},"Living human",[40,14555,1073],{},[40,14557,1056],{},[40,14559,1046],{},[40,14561,1063],{},[40,14563,1190],{},[40,14565,14566],{},"Fyreslayer Flesh",[40,14568,301],{},[37,14570,14571,438,14574,666,14576,14578,14579,14581,14582,14584],{},[40,14572,14573],{},"Underhive pale",[40,14575,6376],{},[40,14577,4884],{}," rather than a brown, layer ",[40,14580,584],{},", touch ",[40,14583,577],{}," on the brow and knuckles. Use this for anyone who has not seen a sunlamp: whisper merchants, hereteks, cadaver merchants.",[37,14586,14587,14590,14591,14593,14594,14596],{},[40,14588,14589],{},"Servitor and ogryn flesh"," - the same pale ramp, but shade with ",[40,14592,559],{}," for grime and glaze ",[40,14595,5116],{}," thinly into the sockets around the implants. Servitor flesh should look preserved, not healthy.",[37,14598,14599,438,14602,1903,14604,7010,14606,14608,14609,14611,14612,14614],{},[40,14600,14601],{},"Beastman fur and hide",[40,14603,11128],{},[40,14605,559],{},[40,14607,590],{}," with the direction of the hair. Horns and hooves: ",[40,14610,552],{},", shade, then ",[40,14613,577],{}," at the tips.",[37,14616,14617,14620,14621,442,14623,14625,14626,442,14628,14630],{},[40,14618,14619],{},"Squat and Ratling"," - the human ramp, but paint the beard as the focal point. ",[40,14622,725],{},[40,14624,988],{}," for red, or ",[40,14627,1015],{},[40,14629,7053],{}," for iron-grey.",[37,14632,14633,14636,14637,612,14639,14641,14642,612,14644,14646,14647,302,14649,14651],{},[40,14634,14635],{},"Machines"," - the excavation automata and the industrial servitor rigs are plate, not people. ",[40,14638,1144],{},[40,14640,1563],{}," with heavy ",[40,14643,1151],{},[40,14645,1155],{}," around every joint, and one ",[40,14648,10100],{},[40,14650,5116],{}," optic so the thing reads as switched on.",[15,14653,14655],{"id":14654},"give-each-one-a-single-bright-note","Give each one a single bright note",[11,14657,14658,14659,14662],{},"The trick that makes a shelf of drab characters look deliberate rather than muddy: ",[40,14660,14661],{},"one saturated colour per model, and a different one each time."," Keep it to a small area - a rag, a hood lining, a holster, a bedroll, a length of hazard tape, a lens.",[11,14664,14665,14667,14668,14670,14671,376,14673,376,14675,376,14677,14679],{},[40,14666,1370],{}," on one. ",[40,14669,676],{}," on the next. ",[40,14672,324],{},[40,14674,9575],{},[40,14676,4943],{},[40,14678,6552],{}," - work down the list and do not repeat until you have to. The bright note is also where you place the eye, so put it near the head or the weapon hand.",[11,14681,14682,14683,14685,14686,9579,14688,14690,14691,14693,14694,14696],{},"Psychic and wyrd characters get theirs as a glow instead: ",[40,14684,379],{}," at the base of the effect, ",[40,14687,5487],{},[40,14689,676],{}," near the edge, and a thin ",[40,14692,348],{}," line at the very edge, with a faint glaze of the same blue onto whatever the glow sits against. ",[40,14695,10100],{}," does the one-coat version on small optics and vials.",[15,14698,14700],{"id":14699},"quick-quality-one-character-in-an-evening","Quick-quality: one character in an evening",[11,14702,14703],{},"These arrive one or two at a time, which means you can finish each one properly and still keep pace with your gang.",[545,14705,14706,14710,14730,14738,14741,14744],{},[37,14707,540,14708,578],{},[40,14709,301],{},[37,14711,14712,14713,14715,14716,14718,14719,14721,14722,302,14724,14726,14727,14729],{},"Block the whole model in contrast: ",[40,14714,2523],{}," coat, ",[40,14717,1177],{}," leather, ",[40,14720,638],{}," canvas, ",[40,14723,1197],{},[40,14725,1324],{}," on the armour plates, ",[40,14728,1190],{}," on the skin.",[37,14731,14732,14733,612,14735,14737],{},"Metals over the top - ",[40,14734,1144],{},[40,14736,356],{}," - because contrast paints do not do metal.",[37,14739,14740],{},"Re-highlight only three places: the top edge of the coat's folds, the weapon edges, and the face.",[37,14742,14743],{},"Grime and base to the shared recipe.",[37,14745,14746],{},"The bright note, last, so you can see where the model needs it.",[11,14748,14749],{},"An hour or two, and it stands next to a fully layered gang without looking rushed - because on a single character the eye goes to the face and the gun, and you painted both of those properly.",[15,14751,66],{"id":65},[34,14753,14754,14763,14769,14774,14780,14790],{},[37,14755,14756,14759,14760,578],{},[40,14757,14758],{},"Do not give them gang colours."," A bounty hunter painted in Escher green stops being a hired gun and becomes an Escher model. If you want one to look like he currently works for your gang, put the gang colour on the ",[2334,14761,14762],{},"rag or the armband only",[37,14764,14765,14768],{},[40,14766,14767],{},"Vary the browns on purpose."," The commonest failure here is painting every strap, satchel and boot in one brown and washing the lot. It reads as a single leather boilersuit.",[37,14770,14771,14773],{},[40,14772,10405],{}," Boots and shins filthy, chest and shoulders clean. Even grime everywhere looks like a mistake.",[37,14775,14776,14779],{},[40,14777,14778],{},"Keep the weapons clean."," It is one of the two things that says \"professional\" rather than \"ganger\". The other is that the model is standing still.",[37,14781,14782,14785,14786,14789],{},[40,14783,14784],{},"Resist a second bright colour."," One note per model. The variety comes from the ",[2334,14787,14788],{},"collection",", not from each figure.",[37,14791,14792,14795],{},[40,14793,14794],{},"Paint them one at a time."," There is no batch here and no reason to invent one. This is the section of the game where you get to slow down.",[11,14797,14798,14799,14803,14804,14808,14809,14812],{},"These are our editorial recipes rather than an official scheme - there is no studio palette for a heading whose whole premise is that nobody owns it. Browse ",[774,14800,14802],{"href":14801},"/armies/necromunda-hired-guns","every kit in the range",", the rest of the underhive in the ",[774,14805,14807],{"href":14806},"/guides/best-paints-for-necromunda","Necromunda paint list",", and when your drab is where you want it, ",[774,14810,5674],{"href":14811},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=6F7A4B"," to swap brands or push the coat greener.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":14814},[14815,14816,14817,14818,14819,14820,14821,14822,14823],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":14326,"depth":89,"text":14327},{"id":14365,"depth":89,"text":14366},{"id":14431,"depth":89,"text":14432},{"id":14493,"depth":89,"text":14494},{"id":14542,"depth":89,"text":14543},{"id":14654,"depth":89,"text":14655},{"id":14699,"depth":89,"text":14700},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Necromunda bounty hunters, hangers-on and hired guns - a weathered olive-drab core, a different palette on every character, quick-quality methods.","Hired Guns & Hangers-on","#6F7A4B","No gang colours, no uniform - a different palette on every model",{},"/factions/necromunda-hired-guns",{"title":14290,"description":14824},"factions/necromunda-hired-guns","OFkY03jW_zBlraZwmbKOfnRq_nEVRie_PUpK1nStjXM",{"id":14834,"title":14835,"body":14836,"date":96,"description":14929,"extension":98,"faction":14930,"heroImage":14931,"hex":14932,"intro":14933,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":14934,"navigation":104,"path":14935,"seo":14936,"stem":14937,"system":108,"__hash__":14938},"factions/factions/necrons.md","How to Paint Necrons",{"type":8,"value":14837,"toc":14923},[14838,14841,14843,14846,14850,14853,14885,14888,14892,14895,14897],[11,14839,14840],{},"Necrons are one of the most beginner-friendly armies to paint and one of the fastest to get a tabletop-ready force on the table. The core of the scheme is a metallic body, which forgives mistakes and rewards quick techniques like drybrushing and washes far more than smooth, flat colours do.",[15,14842,18],{"id":17},[11,14844,14845],{},"The classic Necron look is bare \"living metal\" - a cool gunmetal silver - offset by glowing green energy in the weapons, eyes and spine. That contrast of dull metal against a vivid, almost radioactive green is what reads instantly as Necron, so it is worth getting both halves right rather than just the metal.",[15,14847,14849],{"id":14848},"dynasty-colour-variants","Dynasty colour variants",[11,14851,14852],{},"The bare-metal Sautekh look is the default, but each dynasty has its own twist, and swapping the energy colour or adding a metallic tint is an easy way to make your army your own:",[34,14854,14855,14861,14867,14873,14879],{},[37,14856,14857,14860],{},[40,14858,14859],{},"Sautekh"," - straight gunmetal with green energy (the box-art scheme).",[37,14862,14863,14866],{},[40,14864,14865],{},"Mephrit"," - gunmetal with a brass/gold trim and orange or red energy.",[37,14868,14869,14872],{},[40,14870,14871],{},"Szarekhan"," - a warmer gold-tinted metal.",[37,14874,14875,14878],{},[40,14876,14877],{},"Nephrekh"," - a full gold scheme, more time-consuming but striking.",[37,14880,14881,14884],{},[40,14882,14883],{},"Novokh"," - blood-red metal for a close-combat dynasty.",[11,14886,14887],{},"Use the recipe above as your base metal, then change the energy accent (green, orange, blue) to match the dynasty you want.",[15,14889,14891],{"id":14890},"painting-the-energy-effects","Painting the energy effects",[11,14893,14894],{},"The green glow is the part that takes a little care. Build it as object-source lighting: basecoat the recess a dark green, layer up through brighter greens to almost-white at the centre, then glaze the surrounding metal with a thin green so the light appears to spill onto it. A green technical/contrast paint over a light area is the fast version and still looks great at arm's length.",[15,14896,66],{"id":65},[34,14898,14899,14905,14911,14917],{},[37,14900,14901,14904],{},[40,14902,14903],{},"Don't skip the wash."," A dark wash (Nuln Oil or any black/brown shade) over the metal is what turns a flat silver into something with depth. It is the single highest-impact step.",[37,14906,14907,14910],{},[40,14908,14909],{},"Drybrush up."," A light silver drybrush after the wash catches every edge and detail in seconds - perfect for the bony, mechanical Necron forms.",[37,14912,14913,14916],{},[40,14914,14915],{},"Keep the metal cool."," Warm silvers can look like tin foil; a cool gunmetal reads as ancient and sinister.",[37,14918,14919,14922],{},[40,14920,14921],{},"Batch paint."," Necron armies are large and the scheme is quick - paint ten bodies at once through each step rather than finishing models one at a time.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":14924},[14925,14926,14927,14928],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":14848,"depth":89,"text":14849},{"id":14890,"depth":89,"text":14891},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A complete guide to painting Necrons - the classic gunmetal living-metal scheme, dynasty colour variants, and the glowing green energy effects that define the faction.","Necrons","/images/factions/necrons.webp","#6f7378","The living-metal look, dynasty variations, and glowing energy effects",{},"/factions/necrons",{"title":14835,"description":14929},"factions/necrons","JveiqM_7uRBD2bs85SycHv1oKCRl8xCBjFsiFtpZ4yY",{"id":14940,"title":14941,"body":14942,"date":96,"description":15008,"extension":98,"faction":15009,"heroImage":15010,"hex":15011,"intro":15012,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":15013,"navigation":104,"path":15014,"seo":15015,"stem":15016,"system":1667,"__hash__":15017},"factions/factions/nighthaunt.md","How to Paint Nighthaunt",{"type":8,"value":14943,"toc":15002},[14944,14947,14949,14952,14956,14959,14970,14973,14977,14980,14982],[11,14945,14946],{},"Nighthaunt are spectral undead, and their entire aesthetic is the ethereal glow of a ghost. It is one of the most striking armies on the table and, thanks to contrast paints, one of the fastest to paint - the signature look is practically built for the technique.",[15,14948,18],{"id":17},[11,14950,14951],{},"Translucent teal/blue-white spirits fading from a glowing core to wispy, pale tails, with bone, rusted iron and the occasional spot colour (a lantern, a cloak). The key effect is the spectral fade - bright where the spirit is \"solid\", fading to white at the trailing edges.",[15,14953,14955],{"id":14954},"painting-the-ethereal-glow","Painting the ethereal glow",[11,14957,14958],{},"The classic method is a single contrast paint (a spectral green or blue) over a white undercoat, applied so it pools in the recesses and lower body and thins out toward the top:",[545,14960,14961,14964,14967],{},[37,14962,14963],{},"Undercoat white.",[37,14965,14966],{},"Apply a teal/green spirit contrast heavily at the base and recesses.",[37,14968,14969],{},"Pull it thin (or leave white) toward the upper edges and tails so the spirit looks like it is dissolving into light.",[11,14971,14972],{},"That is genuinely most of the model done in one pass.",[15,14974,14976],{"id":14975},"bone-iron-and-accents","Bone, iron and accents",[11,14978,14979],{},"Wraith bone (cream, brown wash), rusted chains and weapons (dark metal, orange rust), and a single warm accent - a glowing lantern or a coloured cloak - give the eye somewhere to land amid all the cool spectral tones.",[15,14981,66],{"id":65},[34,14983,14984,14990,14996],{},[37,14985,14986,14989],{},[40,14987,14988],{},"Let the contrast fade."," The transition from solid to wispy is the whole effect - don't paint the spirit a flat, even colour.",[37,14991,14992,14995],{},[40,14993,14994],{},"Keep it cool."," Teal and blue read as spectral; warm tones break the illusion.",[37,14997,14998,15001],{},[40,14999,15000],{},"One warm accent."," A single lantern or flame stops the army feeling monotonous.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":15003},[15004,15005,15006,15007],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":14954,"depth":89,"text":14955},{"id":14975,"depth":89,"text":14976},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Nighthaunt - the ghostly translucent look using contrast paints and a glow-from-within blend, one of the fastest striking armies in the hobby.","Nighthaunt","/images/factions/nighthaunt.webp","#2f6b6b","Ghostly, glowing spirits done fast with contrast paints",{},"/factions/nighthaunt",{"title":14941,"description":15008},"factions/nighthaunt","c7QqQhxecBp3C46vz2gZmUzVjdmCBeVMfbzroLKUAG0",{"id":15019,"title":15020,"body":15021,"date":833,"description":15245,"extension":98,"faction":15246,"heroImage":510,"hex":15247,"intro":15248,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":15249,"navigation":104,"path":15250,"seo":15251,"stem":15252,"system":842,"__hash__":15253},"factions/factions/noble-houses.md","How to Paint Necromunda Noble Houses",{"type":8,"value":15022,"toc":15238},[15023,15026,15029,15031,15034,15038,15063,15078,15089,15093,15096,15102,15129,15141,15153,15157,15169,15181,15195,15197,15232],[11,15024,15025],{},"The Clan Houses of the spire are the only models in Necromunda you are allowed to paint clean. Everything else in the setting is rusted, patched or bloodstained; the nobles are silk, gold thread and polished trim, and they look wrong the moment you weather them. That makes them a nice change of pace and a genuine test - there is nowhere for a sloppy basecoat to hide behind grime.",[11,15027,15028],{},"They are also a small commitment. Most of these are single characters and retinues, so this is a scheme to slow down for rather than batch.",[15,15030,18],{"id":17},[11,15032,15033],{},"Deep imperial purple as the dominant robe colour, gold at every edge and fitting, crisp white panels carrying house heraldry, and pale skin that has never seen the underhive. Keep the value range wide: a dark purple, a bright gold and a near-white in the same eyeline is what makes the models read as expensive. Grime, if you use it at all, belongs on the hem and the boots and nowhere else.",[15,15035,15037],{"id":15036},"the-purple-robes","The purple robes",[545,15039,15040,15049,15054,15058],{},[37,15041,549,15042,15044,15045,15048],{},[40,15043,4940],{},", two thin coats. For a warmer, more regal purple use ",[40,15046,15047],{},"Phoenician Purple"," instead - it sits closer to true imperial purple and is a stronger base under gold.",[37,15050,1790,15051,15053],{},[40,15052,4884],{}," into the folds. Keep it in the creases; a wash over the whole robe kills the richness.",[37,15055,567,15056,8469],{},[40,15057,4943],{},[37,15059,1060,15060,15062],{},[40,15061,4946],{}," along the top of each fold, thinner as you go up the model.",[11,15064,15065,5746,15067,10504,15069,15071,15072,15074,15075,15077],{},[40,15066,5745],{},[40,15068,301],{},[40,15070,13982],{}," contrast for a cold, blue-leaning purple, or ",[40,15073,10009],{}," for a warmer pink-leaning one. Both look genuinely good on robes because the fabric folds do the shading for you. A tidy ",[40,15076,4946],{}," highlight afterwards takes it the rest of the way.",[11,15079,5806,15080,302,15082,15085,15086,15088],{},[40,15081,13991],{},[40,15083,15084],{},"Imperial Purple"," and Army Painter ",[40,15087,13991],{}," are close equivalents for the base.",[15,15090,15092],{"id":15091},"gold-trim-and-cloth-of-gold","Gold trim and cloth of gold",[11,15094,15095],{},"There are two golds on these models and treating them the same is the commonest mistake.",[11,15097,15098,15101],{},[40,15099,15100],{},"Hard gold"," - trim, fittings, jewellery, weapon furniture:",[545,15103,15104,15108,15116,15121],{},[37,15105,549,15106,578],{},[40,15107,1409],{},[37,15109,556,15110,15112,15113,15115],{},[40,15111,1046],{}," for a warm, glowing gold, or ",[40,15114,559],{}," for an older, heavier one.",[37,15117,567,15118,15120],{},[40,15119,1414],{}," on the raised metal.",[37,15122,15123,15124,15126,15127,12095],{},"Point-highlight ",[40,15125,6973],{},", then a tiny catch of ",[40,15128,6260],{},[11,15130,15131,15134,15135,15137,15138,15140],{},[40,15132,15133],{},"Cloth of gold"," - robes and sashes woven through with gold thread. Basecoat ",[40,15136,1409],{},", then glaze thinned ",[40,15139,6549],{}," over it rather than painting flat yellow. The metallic underneath keeps a fabric sheen instead of a mirror finish, and it stays clearly different from the hard trim beside it.",[11,15142,5806,15143,442,15146,2730,15148,442,15150,15152],{},[40,15144,15145],{},"Old Gold",[40,15147,13483],{},[40,15149,12937],{},[40,15151,13491],{},", do the same job.",[15,15154,15156],{"id":15155},"white-heraldry-and-pale-skin","White heraldry and pale skin",[11,15158,15159,15160,15162,15163,15165,15166,15168],{},"House devices sit on white panels and sashes, and they are the only clean cloth in the game. Basecoat ",[40,15161,305],{},", shade the folds with thinned ",[40,15164,7747],{},", then bring the raised cloth up to ",[40,15167,348],{},". Do not wash white with a brown or black shade - it turns it into old bone, which is the exact opposite of the point.",[11,15170,10619,15171,1903,15173,15175,15176,345,15178,15180],{},[40,15172,1063],{},[40,15174,1046],{}," in the creases, layer back with ",[40,15177,1063],{},[40,15179,13565],{}," on the brow, nose and cheekbones. Spire-born nobles are pale and slightly waxy; keep the flesh light and the shading gentle.",[11,15182,15183,15184,1387,15186,1995,15188,1047,15190,442,15192,15194],{},"Hair and furs take ",[40,15185,712],{},[40,15187,559],{},[40,15189,11128],{},[40,15191,552],{},[40,15193,570],{}," for the blonds.",[15,15196,66],{"id":65},[34,15198,15199,15205,15211,15217,15226],{},[37,15200,15201,15204],{},[40,15202,15203],{},"Thin the purple properly."," Purple is a poor coverer and a thick coat leaves visible brush marks on a smooth robe, where there is no texture to hide them.",[37,15206,15207,15210],{},[40,15208,15209],{},"Two golds, not one."," If the sash and the buckle beside it are the same finish, the model looks like painted plastic rather than metal and cloth.",[37,15212,15213,15216],{},[40,15214,15215],{},"Keep the white cold."," A grey-white next to a warm gold is far more convincing than a cream one.",[37,15218,15219,15222,15223,15225],{},[40,15220,15221],{},"Restrict the dirt."," A little ",[40,15224,598],{}," dragged onto the hem and boot soles says they walked here. Anything more and they stop being nobles.",[37,15227,15228,15231],{},[40,15229,15230],{},"Spend the time on faces."," These are character models seen at arm's length. A face that took an hour is visible; a robe that took three is not.",[11,15233,7166,15234,15237],{},[774,15235,822],{"href":15236},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=6E2E8F"," to swap brands or shift the purple warmer for a different Clan House.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":15239},[15240,15241,15242,15243,15244],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":15036,"depth":89,"text":15037},{"id":15091,"depth":89,"text":15092},{"id":15155,"depth":89,"text":15156},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting the Necromunda Noble Houses - deep imperial purple robes, cloth of gold and gold trim, crisp white heraldry and pale spire-born skin.","Necromunda Noble Houses","#6E2E8F","Rich purple and gold finery, kept spotless above the sump",{},"/factions/noble-houses",{"title":15020,"description":15245},"factions/noble-houses","H1RrHIA5jx6XGNKyssELbqsNmfyy3w30RviwMCuDuk0",{"id":15255,"title":15256,"body":15257,"date":507,"description":15488,"extension":98,"faction":15489,"heroImage":510,"hex":15490,"intro":15491,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":15492,"navigation":104,"path":15493,"seo":15494,"stem":15495,"system":1667,"__hash__":15496},"factions/factions/ogor-mawtribes.md","How to Paint Ogor Mawtribes",{"type":8,"value":15258,"toc":15479},[15259,15262,15264,15267,15271,15293,15307,15311,15324,15360,15364,15367,15406,15410,15436,15438,15444,15446,15472],[11,15260,15261],{},"Ogors are the best-value painting project in Age of Sigmar. A full army might be twenty infantry and a couple of enormous beasts, and every model is a slab of skin, fur and metal at a scale where a drybrush actually shows. If you want a finished force on the table quickly without cutting corners, this is the army that lets you.",[15,15263,18],{"id":17},[11,15265,15266],{},"Big ruddy hides, brass and iron gutplates hammered flat over the belly, layers of fur and rope, and crude rusted weapons. The palette is warm and earthy throughout, which means the whole army holds together even if individual ogors carry different tribal colours.",[15,15268,15270],{"id":15269},"painting-ogor-skin","Painting ogor skin",[545,15272,15273,15277,15283,15288],{},[37,15274,549,15275,8691],{},[40,15276,1041],{},[37,15278,15279,15280,15282],{},"Wash the lot with ",[40,15281,1046],{}," and let it settle into the folds.",[37,15284,567,15285,15287],{},[40,15286,1056],{}," across the raised muscle - the shoulders, belly, forearms and brow.",[37,15289,15290,15291,578],{},"Highlight the knuckles, nose and cheekbones with ",[40,15292,1063],{},[11,15294,15295,15296,15298,15299,1325,15301,15303,15304,15306],{},"At this scale a fifth step pays off: stipple a little thinned ",[40,15297,1063],{}," across the shoulders and back to suggest weathered, sun-coarsened hide. For speed, ",[40,15300,1187],{},[40,15302,301],{}," does steps one to three in a coat, and ",[40,15305,1190],{}," gives a pinker, more raw result if you prefer your ogors freshly scarred.",[15,15308,15310],{"id":15309},"gutplates-fur-and-iron","Gutplates, fur and iron",[11,15312,15313,15314,1087,15316,7079,15318,15320,15321,15323],{},"The gutplate is the visual anchor. Basecoat ",[40,15315,1563],{},[40,15317,559],{},[40,15319,1573],{}," and add a few dents with ",[40,15322,410],{}," - a beaten, hammered look suits them better than a clean one.",[11,15325,15326,15327,10080,15329,15331,15332,15334,15335,15337,15338,302,15340,15342,15343,376,15345,15347,15348,15350,15351,15353,15354,376,15356,376,15358,578],{},"Fur takes ",[40,15328,725],{},[40,15330,559],{},", then a firm drybrush of ",[40,15333,988],{}," and a lighter one of ",[40,15336,590],{}," on the shaggiest ends. ",[40,15339,646],{},[40,15341,1180],{}," contrast over bone-coloured undercoat is the quick route and reads perfectly well at arm's length. Iron goes ",[40,15344,1144],{},[40,15346,356],{},", a stipple of ",[40,15349,1151],{}," and points of ",[40,15352,1155],{},". Bone charms and tusks: ",[40,15355,552],{},[40,15357,563],{},[40,15359,570],{},[15,15361,15363],{"id":15362},"mawtribe-colours","Mawtribe colours",[11,15365,15366],{},"The mawtribes are a good excuse to vary the cloth and warpaint without touching the skin recipe:",[34,15368,15369,15379,15387,15396],{},[37,15370,15371,15374,15375,442,15377,578],{},[40,15372,15373],{},"Bloodgullet"," - deep red rags and warpaint. ",[40,15376,375],{},[40,15378,5116],{},[37,15380,15381,15384,15385,578],{},[40,15382,15383],{},"Meatfist"," - hides and browns, warpaint in ",[40,15386,712],{},[37,15388,15389,15392,15393,15395],{},[40,15390,15391],{},"Underguts"," - soot-blackened iron and ",[40,15394,371],{}," cloth, with heavier rust.",[37,15397,15398,15401,15402,329,15404,578],{},[40,15399,15400],{},"Boulderhead"," - stone greys, ",[40,15403,1019],{},[40,15405,1015],{},[15,15407,15409],{"id":15408},"beastclaw-raiders","Beastclaw Raiders",[11,15411,15412,15413,353,15415,15417,15418,1903,15420,15422,15423,15425,15426,15428,15429,15432,15433,15435],{},"The frost-touched half of the army wants a colder treatment. Skin goes ",[40,15414,1041],{},[40,15416,669],{}," instead of a warm wash, so the hide looks chilled. Furs shift to ",[40,15419,6362],{},[40,15421,2206],{}," layer and a ",[40,15424,2211],{}," drybrush, with ",[40,15427,341],{}," on the tips. ",[40,15430,15431],{},"Pylar Glacier"," contrast over white is a superb one-coat ice for Stonehorn plates and yhetee fur, and ",[40,15434,11212],{}," on the bases finishes the theme. A single army can happily mix warm gutbusters with frosted raiders if you keep the metals consistent.",[15,15437,8818],{"id":8817},[11,15439,15440,15441,15443],{},"This is a genuinely fast army and it is worth saying why: low model count, huge surfaces, no fine trim, and sculpts designed around drybrushing. A Stonehorn is a big model but it is mostly one texture. Two evenings gets a starting force to a good tabletop standard - see the ",[774,15442,12255],{"href":1025}," for the technique that does most of the work here.",[15,15445,66],{"id":65},[34,15447,15448,15454,15460,15466],{},[37,15449,15450,15453],{},[40,15451,15452],{},"Do not over-highlight the skin."," Two layers and a stipple is plenty; ogor hide should look thick, not polished.",[37,15455,15456,15459],{},[40,15457,15458],{},"Dent the brass."," A few bright scratches turn a flat gutplate into a used one.",[37,15461,15462,15465],{},[40,15463,15464],{},"Drybrush the fur hard."," Timid drybrushing on this scale simply disappears.",[37,15467,15468,15471],{},[40,15469,15470],{},"Keep the metals consistent"," across warm and frosted units so a mixed force still reads as one army.",[11,15473,15474,15475,15478],{},"Test a tribal colour against the skin tone in the ",[774,15476,1265],{"href":15477},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=bb8a5f"," before you start.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":15480},[15481,15482,15483,15484,15485,15486,15487],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":15269,"depth":89,"text":15270},{"id":15309,"depth":89,"text":15310},{"id":15362,"depth":89,"text":15363},{"id":15408,"depth":89,"text":15409},{"id":8817,"depth":89,"text":8818},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Ogor Mawtribes - ruddy ogor skin, gutplate brass, furs and rusted iron, plus the frosted Beastclaw Raiders palette and why this is one of the fastest armies to finish.","Ogor Mawtribes","#bb8a5f","Ruddy hide, brass gutplates and rusted iron",{},"/factions/ogor-mawtribes",{"title":15256,"description":15488},"factions/ogor-mawtribes","iulpJ2nclk5aXdSM_U4G3XPPrLWoMJ_wT-RCczUioxI",{"id":15498,"title":15499,"body":15500,"date":833,"description":15779,"extension":98,"faction":15780,"heroImage":510,"hex":15781,"intro":15782,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":15783,"navigation":104,"path":15784,"seo":15785,"stem":15786,"system":1284,"__hash__":15787},"factions/factions/orc-and-goblin-tribes.md","How to Paint Orc and Goblin Tribes",{"type":8,"value":15501,"toc":15771},[15502,15505,15508,15510,15513,15517,15552,15572,15583,15587,15598,15613,15625,15629,15677,15681,15684,15711,15717,15727,15729,15766],[11,15503,15504],{},"Greenskins are a horde army with a horde army's arithmetic: you will paint more models here than in any other Old World force, and the recipe has to survive being done sixty times. Fortunately the signature look is built on a wash and a drybrush, which are the two fastest techniques there are, and every mistake reads as a scar, a scuff or a bad repair.",[11,15506,15507],{},"Paint the skin well and paint everything else quickly. That division is the whole plan.",[15,15509,18],{"id":17},[11,15511,15512],{},"Saturated green skin that darkens hard into the recesses, so a mob reads as muscle rather than as a green blob. Around it, everything is scavenged: unpainted wood, beaten iron gone to rust, mismatched leather, and bone-coloured teeth. Then one loud spot colour - red chequers and zigzag dags on the cloth - which is the tribal marking that ties a mob together and gives the eye somewhere to land.",[15,15514,15516],{"id":15515},"the-orc-skin-ramp","The orc skin ramp",[545,15518,15519,15528,15534,15540,15546],{},[37,15520,549,15521,15524,15525,15527],{},[40,15522,15523],{},"Waaagh! Flesh",", two thin coats. Use ",[40,15526,312],{}," underneath instead if you want older, darker orcs.",[37,15529,15530,15531,15533],{},"Wash the whole model with ",[40,15532,316],{},". This is the step that makes it look like an orc and the step people skip; the green needs to go genuinely dark in the creases.",[37,15535,567,15536,15539],{},[40,15537,15538],{},"Warboss Green"," on the raised muscle - shoulders, forearms, brow, chest, knuckles.",[37,15541,567,15542,15545],{},[40,15543,15544],{},"Skarsnik Green"," on the highest points only.",[37,15547,15548,15549,15551],{},"Characters and bosses: a final catch of ",[40,15550,4851],{}," on the brow ridge, nose and knuckles.",[11,15553,15554,15555,5749,15557,6920,15560,15562,15563,15565,15566,15568,15569,15571],{},"Contrast route: undercoat ",[40,15556,301],{},[40,15558,15559],{},"Ork Flesh",[40,15561,15544],{},". Faster still, and very effective on a big mob: undercoat black, drybrush ",[40,15564,15538],{}," hard from above, drybrush ",[40,15567,15544],{}," lightly on top, then push ",[40,15570,4846],{}," into the recesses to knit it together.",[11,15573,7492,15574,442,15577,6933,15579,442,15581,578],{},[40,15575,15576],{},"Goblin Green",[40,15578,9939],{},[40,15580,9951],{},[40,15582,8407],{},[15,15584,15586],{"id":15585},"goblins","Goblins",[11,15588,15589,15590,1087,15592,317,15594,1906,15596,578],{},"Goblin skin should be more acidic and yellower than orc skin so the two never look like the same species scaled down. Basecoat ",[40,15591,320],{},[40,15593,316],{},[40,15595,324],{},[40,15597,4851],{},[11,15599,15600,15601,3536,15603,695,15605,15607,15608,302,15610,15612],{},"Night goblins are the exception, and the fastest models in the army: keep the exposed skin dark and put every minute into the hood. ",[40,15602,371],{},[40,15604,1015],{},[40,15606,1019],{},", with the hood's inner shadow left black. A crescent moon freehanded in ",[40,15609,324],{},[40,15611,570],{}," on the back of the hood turns a black cone into a character.",[11,15614,15615,15616,376,15618,376,15620,376,15622,15624],{},"Teeth, tusks, claws and horns: ",[40,15617,6376],{},[40,15619,559],{},[40,15621,570],{},[40,15623,577],{}," on the very tips. Never white - white teeth on a greenskin look like dentures.",[15,15626,15628],{"id":15627},"ramshackle-wood-and-rusted-metal","Ramshackle wood and rusted metal",[34,15630,15631,15646,15656,15665],{},[37,15632,15633,15634,376,15636,3536,15638,5277,15640,15642,15643,15645],{},"Wood on hafts, wagons and choppa handles: ",[40,15635,963],{},[40,15637,559],{},[40,15639,970],{},[40,15641,590],{}," on the splintered edges. ",[40,15644,1177],{}," does the whole job in one coat.",[37,15647,15648,15649,376,15651,376,15653,15655],{},"Iron: ",[40,15650,1144],{},[40,15652,356],{},[40,15654,5036],{}," scraped along the cutting edge only.",[37,15657,15658,15659,15661,15662,15664],{},"Rust is not optional. Stipple ",[40,15660,1151],{}," around rivets, blade roots and the lower half of any plate, then stipple ",[40,15663,1155],{}," sparingly on top of it. Orc metal should look salvaged; that rust is what separates a greenskin mob from a state regiment carrying the same halberd.",[37,15666,15667,15668,376,15670,376,15672,6261,15674,15676],{},"Leather straps and hide: ",[40,15669,712],{},[40,15671,559],{},[40,15673,725],{},[40,15675,646],{}," in one coat for the rank and file.",[15,15678,15680],{"id":15679},"red-chequers-and-dags","Red chequers and dags",[11,15682,15683],{},"This is the freehand that makes the army, and it is far easier than it looks because greenskin cloth is supposed to be crooked.",[545,15685,15686,15696,15699,15705],{},[37,15687,15688,15689,666,15691,317,15693,15695],{},"Base the cloth ",[40,15690,552],{},[40,15692,559],{},[40,15694,570],{},". A pale cloth gives the red something to sit against.",[37,15697,15698],{},"Sketch the grid in pencil, following the curve of the fold rather than the flat of the panel.",[37,15700,15701,15702,15704],{},"Fill alternate squares with ",[40,15703,441],{},", keeping the brush loaded but not wet.",[37,15706,15707,15708,15710],{},"Highlight the upper edge of each red square with ",[40,15709,385],{}," so the chequers follow the cloth's own light.",[11,15712,15713,15714,15716],{},"For dags - the zigzag hem on banners and tunics - paint a solid band of ",[40,15715,441],{}," along the hem first, then cut triangles out of it with the cloth colour. Cutting notches out of a band is much easier than painting a row of triangles.",[11,15718,15719,15720,442,15722,442,15724,15726],{},"If you would rather run yellow tribal markings, ",[40,15721,453],{},[40,15723,6549],{},[40,15725,6552],{}," does the same job and reads well against green skin.",[15,15728,66],{"id":65},[34,15730,15731,15737,15748,15754,15760],{},[37,15732,15733,15736],{},[40,15734,15735],{},"Shade hard, highlight bright."," A timid wash gives you a flat green mob. The contrast between deep recess and bright knuckle is the entire look.",[37,15738,15739,15742,15743,302,15745,15747],{},[40,15740,15741],{},"Vary the green across the unit."," Mix a little ",[40,15744,552],{},[40,15746,312],{}," into the basecoat on every fourth model. A mob of identical greens looks moulded; a mob of slightly different ones looks alive.",[37,15749,15750,15753],{},[40,15751,15752],{},"Rust everything metal."," Clean steel on an orc is the single most common thing that makes a greenskin army look wrong.",[37,15755,15756,15759],{},[40,15757,15758],{},"Chequers belong on flat panels."," Banners, loincloths, shields and drum skins. Trying to chequer a heavily folded sleeve wastes an hour for nothing.",[37,15761,15762,15765],{},[40,15763,15764],{},"Assembly-line the mob."," Basecoat and wash all forty, then layer all forty. Chequers get done once, at the end, on the models that face the front.",[11,15767,7166,15768,7170],{},[774,15769,822],{"href":15770},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=62933c",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":15772},[15773,15774,15775,15776,15777,15778],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":15515,"depth":89,"text":15516},{"id":15585,"depth":89,"text":15586},{"id":15627,"depth":89,"text":15628},{"id":15679,"depth":89,"text":15680},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Orc and Goblin Tribes - the classic green skin ramp, acid-green goblins, ramshackle wood and rusted metal, and freehand red chequers and dags.","Orcs & Goblins","#62933c","Green skin, rust and red chequers",{},"/factions/orc-and-goblin-tribes",{"title":15499,"description":15779},"factions/orc-and-goblin-tribes","AUCSJSwsflCRALiGXNbgYOX4vjczoPwUGgALx_3674Y",{"id":15789,"title":15790,"body":15791,"date":96,"description":15905,"extension":98,"faction":15906,"heroImage":15907,"hex":15908,"intro":15909,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":15910,"navigation":104,"path":15911,"seo":15912,"stem":15913,"system":108,"__hash__":15914},"factions/factions/orks.md","How to Paint Orks",{"type":8,"value":15792,"toc":15898},[15793,15796,15798,15801,15805,15808,15819,15822,15826,15829,15843,15847,15850,15876,15878],[11,15794,15795],{},"Orks are a brilliant army for painters who want character over precision. The whole aesthetic is scrappy, mismatched and weathered, so clean lines and perfect blends are not the goal - energy, contrast and a bit of grime are. They paint up fast and look better the rougher they get.",[15,15797,18],{"id":17},[11,15799,15800],{},"Orks are defined by green skin and improvised metal armour and weapons. The skin recipe above gives you the ramp from a dark shaded green up to a bright, almost cartoonish highlight on the nose, brow and knuckles - that bright pop of green is what makes an Ork read as alive and aggressive.",[15,15802,15804],{"id":15803},"painting-ork-skin-fast","Painting Ork skin fast",[11,15806,15807],{},"Green skin is the perfect candidate for the fast contrast/wash method:",[545,15809,15810,15813,15816],{},[37,15811,15812],{},"Basecoat the skin a mid green (or undercoat and use a green contrast paint in one pass).",[37,15814,15815],{},"If you went the classic route, wash it with a green or black shade to sink the recesses.",[37,15817,15818],{},"Layer the original green back on the raised muscle, then a final bright highlight on the very top - the brow ridge, nose, fists and shoulders.",[11,15820,15821],{},"For a whole mob, the one-coat contrast approach over a light undercoat gets you tabletop-ready in a fraction of the time.",[15,15823,15825],{"id":15824},"metal-rust-and-weathering","Metal, rust and weathering",[11,15827,15828],{},"The armour is where Orks come alive. Keep the metal dark and grimy, not shiny:",[34,15830,15831,15834,15837,15840],{},[37,15832,15833],{},"Basecoat plates a dark metal, wash heavily with a brown or black shade.",[37,15835,15836],{},"Stipple or sponge rust (orange and brown) along edges and rivets.",[37,15838,15839],{},"Add chips with a fine brush or a torn sponge so the metal looks beaten and scavenged.",[37,15841,15842],{},"A few spots of bright clan colour (red, blue, yellow) break up the green and metal.",[15,15844,15846],{"id":15845},"clan-colour-variations","Clan colour variations",[11,15848,15849],{},"A spot colour ties a mob together and follows Ork \"logic\":",[34,15851,15852,15858,15864,15870],{},[37,15853,15854,15857],{},[40,15855,15856],{},"Goffs"," - black and white checks, red details.",[37,15859,15860,15863],{},[40,15861,15862],{},"Evil Sunz"," - lots of red (because red wunz go fasta).",[37,15865,15866,15869],{},[40,15867,15868],{},"Bad Moons"," - yellow.",[37,15871,15872,15875],{},[40,15873,15874],{},"Deathskulls"," - blue, plus a bit of everything looted.",[15,15877,66],{"id":65},[34,15879,15880,15886,15892],{},[37,15881,15882,15885],{},[40,15883,15884],{},"Embrace the mess."," Sponge weathering and slightly sloppy chips look intentional on Orks - this is the army to relax on.",[37,15887,15888,15891],{},[40,15889,15890],{},"Vary the skin."," Don't paint every Ork's skin identically; small differences make a mob look like a horde, not clones.",[37,15893,15894,15897],{},[40,15895,15896],{},"Batch the green."," Skin is most of the model - do the whole mob's skin through each step at once, then individualise the gubbinz.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":15899},[15900,15901,15902,15903,15904],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":15803,"depth":89,"text":15804},{"id":15824,"depth":89,"text":15825},{"id":15845,"depth":89,"text":15846},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Orks fast - the classic green skin recipe, scrappy metal armour, rust and weathering, and the clan colour variations that give an Ork army its character.","Orks","/images/factions/orks.webp","#4f7a2a","Green skin, scrappy metal, rust and weathering done fast",{},"/factions/orks",{"title":15790,"description":15905},"factions/orks","tWKsKfMV8E4M1takRQifZxKrVws38F-GWthL6i-HJq4",{"id":15916,"title":15917,"body":15918,"date":507,"description":16084,"extension":98,"faction":16085,"heroImage":510,"hex":16086,"intro":16087,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":16088,"navigation":104,"path":16089,"seo":16090,"stem":16091,"system":1667,"__hash__":16092},"factions/factions/orruk-warclans.md","How to Paint Orruk Warclans",{"type":8,"value":15919,"toc":16077},[15920,15923,15925,15928,15932,15954,15961,15992,15996,16015,16037,16039,16042,16044,16070],[11,15921,15922],{},"Orruk Warclans is two armies sharing a colour. Ironjawz are enormous, armoured and few, wearing slabs of scavenged iron. Kruleboyz are lean, hooded and numerous, working with poison and mud. Both are green, both are filthy, and both are forgiving to paint - orruks are supposed to look battered, so the sins that ruin a Stormcast are features here.",[15,15924,18],{"id":17},[11,15926,15927],{},"Green hide, from the deep bottle-green of an Ironjaw brute to the sicklier swamp tone of a Kruleboy. Rusted, dented iron rather than clean armour. Leather, rope and hide in warm browns. And one hot accent per clan - yellow plates for Ironjawz, poison green for Kruleboyz.",[15,15929,15931],{"id":15930},"ironjawz-skin-and-plate","Ironjawz: skin and plate",[545,15933,15934,15939,15944,15949],{},[37,15935,15936,15937,578],{},"Basecoat the hide ",[40,15938,15523],{},[37,15940,9510,15941,15943],{},[40,15942,316],{}," to deepen the recesses.",[37,15945,567,15946,15948],{},[40,15947,15538],{}," across the muscle mass - shoulders, arms, jaw.",[37,15950,1804,15951,15953],{},[40,15952,15544],{}," on the brow, knuckles and the ridge of the back.",[11,15955,15956,1325,15958,15960],{},[40,15957,15559],{},[40,15959,301],{}," compresses that to a single coat and holds up perfectly well on a rank-and-file Ardboy. Save the four-step version for the Megaboss and the Maw-Krusha.",[11,15962,15963,15964,1087,15966,15968,15969,15971,15972,15974,15975,8062,15978,15980,15981,442,15983,15985,15986,376,15988,612,15990,578],{},"The armour is the fun part. Basecoat ",[40,15965,1144],{},[40,15967,356],{},", then stipple ",[40,15970,1151],{}," across the lower plates and dab ",[40,15973,1155],{}," into it with a torn piece of sponge. Where you want the yellow, lay ",[40,15976,15977],{},"Ironjawz Yellow",[40,15979,552],{}," - it shades and bases in one pass and looks appropriately grubby. Leather goes ",[40,15982,712],{},[40,15984,988],{},"; teeth and tusks take ",[40,15987,552],{},[40,15989,563],{},[40,15991,570],{},[15,15993,15995],{"id":15994},"kruleboyz-swamp-hide-and-poison","Kruleboyz: swamp hide and poison",[11,15997,15998,15999,1325,16002,16004,16005,16007,16008,302,16010,16012,16013,578],{},"Kruleboyz want a colder, more diseased green. ",[40,16000,16001],{},"Gutrippa Flesh",[40,16003,301],{}," is made for exactly this and is the right answer for a unit of ten; highlight the ridges with ",[40,16006,3349],{}," if you want more definition. Hoods and cloth go ",[40,16009,598],{},[40,16011,2523],{}," contrast, and leather takes ",[40,16014,646],{},[11,16016,16017,16018,612,16020,16022,16023,9576,16025,16027,16028,16030,16031,16033,16034,16036],{},"Their blades carry the signature effect. Paint the metal ",[40,16019,1144],{},[40,16021,356],{},", then work the poison along the cutting edge: ",[40,16024,312],{},[40,16026,320],{}," over it, ",[40,16029,324],{}," on the last third, and a fine line of ",[40,16032,341],{}," at the very edge. A gloss coat of ",[40,16035,406],{}," over the finished blade makes it look wet, which is the whole idea.",[15,16038,7868],{"id":7867},[11,16040,16041],{},"Ironjawz are one of the fastest complete armies in Age of Sigmar. The model count is low, the plates are enormous, and rust and grime are meant to be uneven - there is no edge highlighting to agonise over. Kruleboyz take longer simply because there are more of them, but they are the ideal contrast-paint army: hooded, recessed, organic sculpts where one coat does the shading. Batch ten at a time, do all the skin, then all the cloth, then all the metal, and only detail the blades at the end.",[15,16043,66],{"id":65},[34,16045,16046,16052,16058,16064],{},[37,16047,16048,16051],{},[40,16049,16050],{},"Two greens, not one."," Keeping Ironjawz warm and Kruleboyz sickly is what stops a combined force looking flat.",[37,16053,16054,16057],{},[40,16055,16056],{},"Rust with a sponge."," A brush makes patterns; a torn sponge makes corrosion.",[37,16059,16060,16063],{},[40,16061,16062],{},"Let the yellow be dirty."," Clean yellow plate looks wrong on an orruk.",[37,16065,16066,16069],{},[40,16067,16068],{},"Glow the blade, not the boy."," The poison is the accent - keep it on the edges.",[11,16071,16072,16073,16076],{},"Compare an Ironjawz green against a Kruleboyz one in the ",[774,16074,1265],{"href":16075},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=4e7d2c"," before you commit the clan.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":16078},[16079,16080,16081,16082,16083],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":15930,"depth":89,"text":15931},{"id":15994,"depth":89,"text":15995},{"id":7867,"depth":89,"text":7868},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Orruk Warclans - Ironjawz green skin and rusted iron plate, swampy Kruleboyz hide with poison-green blades, and the fastest routes to a finished green tide.","Orruk Warclans","#4e7d2c","Green hide, rusted plate and swamp-green poison",{},"/factions/orruk-warclans",{"title":15917,"description":16084},"factions/orruk-warclans","qfmEg3w1_AX1ANdPG9lucKzSzAC1kWl03VKc-rHMRdc",{"id":16094,"title":16095,"body":16096,"date":96,"description":16158,"extension":98,"faction":16159,"heroImage":16160,"hex":16161,"intro":16162,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":16163,"navigation":104,"path":16164,"seo":16165,"stem":16166,"system":1667,"__hash__":16167},"factions/factions/ossiarch-bonereapers.md","How to Paint Ossiarch Bonereapers",{"type":8,"value":16097,"toc":16152},[16098,16101,16103,16106,16110,16113,16124,16128,16131,16133],[11,16099,16100],{},"Ossiarch Bonereapers are elite undead built from sculpted bone - precise, regal and unsettling rather than rotting. Most of the model is bone, so getting a clean, warm bone recipe down is the whole job, with a couple of strong accents to lift it.",[15,16102,18],{"id":17},[11,16104,16105],{},"Smooth, pale bone bodies (warmer and cleaner than a skeleton horde), deep teal or green cloth, gold trim, and the eerie black-green glow of nadirite weapons. The effect should be cold and aristocratic.",[15,16107,16109],{"id":16108},"painting-the-bone","Painting the bone",[11,16111,16112],{},"Bone is the army, so build it well:",[34,16114,16115,16118,16121],{},[37,16116,16117],{},"Basecoat a mid bone/brown, shade with a thin brown wash in the recesses, and layer up through cream to near-white on the high points.",[37,16119,16120],{},"A bone contrast over a light undercoat is the fast route and shades the sculpted detail for you.",[37,16122,16123],{},"Keep it warm - a brown rather than grey shade stops the bone looking like dirty plastic.",[15,16125,16127],{"id":16126},"nadirite-weapons-and-accents","Nadirite weapons and accents",[11,16129,16130],{},"The signature nadirite blades use a dark teal-to-black blend with a sharp green-white edge glow - object-source lighting that makes the weapons look supernaturally cold. Teal cloth and gold trim complete the regal look.",[15,16132,66],{"id":65},[34,16134,16135,16141,16147],{},[37,16136,16137,16140],{},[40,16138,16139],{},"Warm the bone."," Brown shading reads as bone; grey reads as grime.",[37,16142,16143,16146],{},[40,16144,16145],{},"Smooth, not grimy."," Unlike Skaven or Nighthaunt, Bonereapers are clean and sculpted - keep washes controlled.",[37,16148,16149,16151],{},[40,16150,8649],{}," The nadirite edge is the army's signature - don't skip it.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":16153},[16154,16155,16156,16157],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":16108,"depth":89,"text":16109},{"id":16126,"depth":89,"text":16127},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Ossiarch Bonereapers - the smooth sculpted bone, teal cloth and eerie nadirite black-green weapons of the undead bone-constructs.","Ossiarch Bonereapers","/images/factions/ossiarch-bonereapers.webp","#cdbb94","Sculpted bone, teal cloth and nadirite weapons",{},"/factions/ossiarch-bonereapers",{"title":16095,"description":16158},"factions/ossiarch-bonereapers","yjvKLDS40JgFz6_sDB-6x7nXNKxQkyPxbY3oSRZvOfg",{"id":16169,"title":16170,"body":16171,"date":833,"description":16415,"extension":98,"faction":16416,"heroImage":510,"hex":16417,"intro":16418,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":16419,"navigation":104,"path":16420,"seo":16421,"stem":16422,"system":842,"__hash__":16423},"factions/factions/palanite-enforcers.md","How to Paint Palanite Enforcers",{"type":8,"value":16172,"toc":16407},[16173,16176,16178,16181,16185,16188,16217,16236,16238,16254,16258,16269,16298,16311,16329,16345,16349,16361,16363,16400],[11,16174,16175],{},"Enforcers are the most \"uniform\" gang in Necromunda, and that is a gift. Every fighter wears the same plate in the same colour, the panels are large and smooth, and the interest comes from markings rather than from freehand heraldry. Paint one carefully to settle the recipe, then run the rest in a batch of five or six.",[15,16177,18],{"id":17},[11,16179,16180],{},"Dark, slightly desaturated blue riot armour over black fatigues, with hard-edged highlights that make the plate look like moulded plastic rather than cloth. Against that: yellow and black hazard striping on shields, shoulder plates and shock mauls, white or bone unit numbers, and a lot of gunmetal. The whole thing should look issued and maintained - Enforcers are the one force in the underhive with a quartermaster.",[15,16182,16184],{"id":16183},"the-blue-riot-armour","The blue riot armour",[11,16186,16187],{},"Undercoat black. The armour is dark enough that a black basecoat does real work here, and the recesses can simply stay black.",[545,16189,16190,16195,16201,16206,16211],{},[37,16191,549,16192,16194],{},[40,16193,379],{},", two thin coats. It goes on slightly patchy over black and is opaque by the second pass.",[37,16196,16197,16198,16200],{},"Shade only the panel joins and rivets with ",[40,16199,356],{},". Do not wash the whole model - the armour is already dark and a full wash flattens it.",[37,16202,567,16203,16205],{},[40,16204,5467],{}," across the raised faces of every plate, leaving the base colour visible in the recesses and along the panel edges.",[37,16207,7487,16208,16210],{},[40,16209,5487],{}," on the top and outer edges of each plate. Keep the lines crisp and unbroken; hard armour wants hard highlights.",[37,16212,16213,16214,16216],{},"On champions, Captains and Subjugators, add a final catch of ",[40,16215,2211],{}," on corners and the crest of the helmet.",[11,16218,16219,16220,376,16223,376,16226,612,16228,16231,16232,612,16234,578],{},"Vallejo equivalents through the same ramp: ",[40,16221,16222],{},"Dark Prussian Blue",[40,16224,16225],{},"Prussian Blue",[40,16227,6929],{},[40,16229,16230],{},"Andrea Blue",". Army Painter Fanatic covers it with ",[40,16233,5500],{},[40,16235,6938],{},[15,16237,629],{"id":628},[11,16239,540,16240,16242,16243,16245,16246,16248,16249,6678,16251,16253],{},[40,16241,305],{}," and apply a single coat of ",[40,16244,5494],{}," contrast. It dries darker and richer than it looks in the pot and gives you shadow and midtone in one pass; add a ",[40,16247,5487],{}," edge and a patrol is table-ready in an evening. For a deeper, more navy result, ",[40,16250,6919],{},[40,16252,1144],{}," undercoat gives the plate a faint metallic sheen under the colour, which suits Subjugator armour particularly well.",[15,16255,16257],{"id":16256},"fatigues-hazard-stripes-and-markings","Fatigues, hazard stripes and markings",[11,16259,16260,12143,16263,16265,16266,16268],{},[40,16261,16262],{},"Fatigues:",[40,16264,371],{},", then a single thin edge highlight of ",[40,16267,1015],{}," on the creases at knee, elbow and shoulder. Cloth wants a softer, broken highlight than the armour - this is the one place on the model where the line should not be crisp.",[11,16270,16271,16274,16275,302,16277,16279,16280,1564,16282,7224,16284,4642,16286,16288,16289,16291,16292,16294,16295,16297],{},[40,16272,16273],{},"Hazard stripes"," are the signature marking and they need a light foundation. Block the whole panel in ",[40,16276,552],{},[40,16278,301],{}," first, basecoat ",[40,16281,453],{},[40,16283,6549],{},[40,16285,456],{},[40,16287,6552],{},". Once dry, rule the black diagonals in ",[40,16290,371],{}," with the edge of a small flat brush. Masking tape works, but on a 28mm shoulder plate freehand is usually faster. The contrast alternative is ",[40,16293,301],{}," undercoat plus ",[40,16296,12125],{},", which is one coat and perfectly good on a shield edge.",[11,16299,16300,812,16303,16305,16306,345,16308,16310],{},[40,16301,16302],{},"Unit numbers and helmet markings:",[40,16304,1132],{}," over the armour, tidied with ",[40,16307,305],{},[40,16309,348],{}," only where the marking catches light. Transfers behave well on the flat shoulder plates - gloss varnish the panel, apply, then matt the whole model.",[11,16312,16313,812,16316,1387,16318,1535,16320,16322,16323,692,16325,4885,16327,578],{},[40,16314,16315],{},"Metal:",[40,16317,1144],{},[40,16319,356],{},[40,16321,410],{}," edges for guns, shock mauls and grilles. Rank badges and aquilas in ",[40,16324,1409],{},[40,16326,559],{},[40,16328,1414],{},[11,16330,16331,812,16334,6302,16336,16338,16339,16341,16342,16344],{},[40,16332,16333],{},"Visors and lenses:",[40,16335,375],{},[40,16337,385],{}," across the body of the lens, ",[40,16340,1370],{}," at the lower edge, and a single ",[40,16343,348],{}," dot in the upper corner. Gloss varnish the lens and nothing else.",[15,16346,16348],{"id":16347},"weathering-and-how-little-to-use","Weathering, and how little to use",[11,16350,16351,16352,16354,16355,16357,16358,16360],{},"Enforcers should look serviced, not scavenged. Keep weathering to three places: a dusting of ",[40,16353,552],{}," drybrushed over boots and shins, a few sponge chips of ",[40,16356,1144],{}," on the leading edges of shields and shoulder plates, and a wash of ",[40,16359,559],{}," around the base of the shock maul where it has been used. Rust belongs on Ash Waste equipment, not on Palanite issue kit.",[15,16362,66],{"id":65},[34,16364,16365,16373,16379,16385,16394],{},[37,16366,16367,16369,16370,16372],{},[40,16368,486],{}," A full ",[40,16371,356],{}," pass over dark blue turns the armour into flat grey-black. Shade the joins and leave the panels alone.",[37,16374,16375,16378],{},[40,16376,16377],{},"Build the yellow on a light base."," Yellow over dark blue needs four or five coats and still looks green in the recesses. Two minutes blocking in bone first saves all of it.",[37,16380,16381,16384],{},[40,16382,16383],{},"Highlight armour and cloth differently."," Crisp lines on plate, soft broken catches on fatigues. If both are done the same way the model reads as one material.",[37,16386,16387,16390,16391,16393],{},[40,16388,16389],{},"Keep the blue dark."," Enforcer blue is a night-time blue. If your final highlight is brighter than ",[40,16392,2211],{}," you have drifted into an Ultramarines scheme.",[37,16395,16396,16399],{},[40,16397,16398],{},"Batch the boring parts."," Basecoat and shade the whole patrol together, then paint markings and lenses one model at a time.",[11,16401,16402,16403,16406],{},"When you are happy with it, ",[774,16404,822],{"href":16405},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=24427A"," to swap brands or trial a different hazard colour.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":16408},[16409,16410,16411,16412,16413,16414],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":16183,"depth":89,"text":16184},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":16256,"depth":89,"text":16257},{"id":16347,"depth":89,"text":16348},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Palanite Enforcers for Necromunda - dark blue riot armour from basecoat to edge highlight, black fatigues, yellow hazard stripes and white unit markings.","Palanite Enforcers","#24427A","Dark blue riot plate, black fatigues and hard-edged hazard markings",{},"/factions/palanite-enforcers",{"title":16170,"description":16415},"factions/palanite-enforcers","8pse0dEzpq86hqFkUopX1cNfY056sVQkj9RX1iI3iTQ",{"id":16425,"title":16426,"body":16427,"date":96,"description":16799,"extension":98,"faction":16800,"heroImage":16801,"hex":16802,"intro":16803,"lastUpdated":11290,"meta":16804,"navigation":104,"path":16805,"seo":16806,"stem":16807,"system":108,"__hash__":16808},"factions/factions/raven-guard.md","How to Paint Raven Guard",{"type":8,"value":16428,"toc":16788},[16429,16432,16435,16437,16440,16443,16447,16450,16483,16497,16511,16525,16544,16548,16551,16576,16583,16587,16593,16610,16619,16622,16626,16629,16660,16663,16667,16679,16690,16692,16695,16715,16719,16726,16728,16772],[11,16430,16431],{},"Raven Guard are black power armour - one of the fastest schemes to basecoat and one of the easiest to get wrong, because flat black reads as a featureless silhouette rather than a suit of ceramite. Everything that makes the chapter look good happens in the last ten per cent of the model: the edges, the white markings, the pale skin and the lenses.",[11,16433,16434],{},"The good news is that this is a genuinely quick army once the recipe is settled. There is no colour blocking to plan, no faction pattern to freehand across a whole squad, and a Raven Guard marine can be finished to a good tabletop standard in the time an Ultramarine takes to basecoat.",[15,16436,18],{"id":17},[11,16438,16439],{},"Sleek, near-black armour with cool grey-blue edge highlights. White shoulder trim and chapter iconography. Chalk-pale skin with dark eyes - the Raven Guard gene-seed leaves them that way, and it is the detail most people miss. Red or green lenses for the one warm point of colour on an otherwise cold model.",[11,16441,16442],{},"The whole scheme is a contrast trick: a very dark body, two or three small areas of near-white, and one saturated accent. Get those three tiers right and the black takes care of itself.",[15,16444,16446],{"id":16445},"the-black","The black",[11,16448,16449],{},"Black over a black undercoat shows nothing. The recipe that works:",[545,16451,16452,16461,16466,16471,16477],{},[37,16453,540,16454,16457,16458,16460],{},[40,16455,16456],{},"Chaos Black",", then mist ",[40,16459,8119],{}," from directly above so the form is already suggested before you pick up a brush.",[37,16462,549,16463,16465],{},[40,16464,371],{}," over everything except the very top surfaces, leaving a hint of the zenithal showing.",[37,16467,6466,16468,16470],{},[40,16469,1015],{}," on every panel edge - a full, slightly generous line.",[37,16472,16473,16474,16476],{},"Come back with a finer, shorter ",[40,16475,1019],{}," line on the outer half of each edge only, and on the corners.",[37,16478,16479,16480,16482],{},"Optional final point: a tiny flick of ",[40,16481,1311],{}," on the sharpest corners of pauldrons, helmet crests and knee plates.",[11,16484,16485,16486,6261,16489,16491,16492,302,16494,16496],{},"Keep the highlights ",[40,16487,16488],{},"cool",[40,16490,9288],{}," in place of the Eshin Grey step gives a colder, more blue-black armour that photographs beautifully; ",[40,16493,2211],{},[40,16495,2206],{}," work as the second step if you want the blue to read clearly. What you must not do is highlight black with anything warm - a brown or beige-grey edge makes ceramite look dusty rather than dark.",[11,16498,16499,13462,16501,5749,16503,13983,16505,16507,16508,16510],{},[40,16500,13461],{},[40,16502,305],{},[40,16504,1324],{},[40,16506,1019],{}," lightly across the raised plates and knock it back with a thinned glaze of ",[40,16509,5247],{},". Two steps and a glaze, and it holds up at arm's length across a whole squad.",[11,16512,16513,812,16516,16518,16519,16521,16522,16524],{},[40,16514,16515],{},"Batch route.",[40,16517,371],{}," basecoat, heavy drybrush of ",[40,16520,1019],{}," from above, then ",[40,16523,356],{}," over the lot to pull it back together. Faster than edge highlighting and much better than leaving the black flat.",[11,16526,16527,16528,442,16530,442,16532,6933,16534,442,16537,442,16539,1114,16541,16543],{},"Other ranges: Vallejo painters can run ",[40,16529,2593],{},[40,16531,9716],{},[40,16533,3328],{},[40,16535,16536],{},"Matt Black",[40,16538,2503],{},[40,16540,2510],{},[40,16542,9195],{}," as the cool final edge.",[15,16545,16547],{"id":16546},"chalk-white-skin-and-black-eyes","Chalk-white skin and black eyes",[11,16549,16550],{},"Raven Guard heads are the quickest win on the model and the thing that marks the chapter out from every other black-armoured force.",[545,16552,16553,16557,16563,16570],{},[37,16554,549,16555,578],{},[40,16556,584],{},[37,16558,16559,16560,16562],{},"Shade the recesses with thinned ",[40,16561,4884],{}," - purple, not brown. A warm shade turns the skin ordinary.",[37,16564,567,16565,16567,16568,578],{},[40,16566,584],{}," back over the raised areas, then highlight the brow, nose and cheekbones with ",[40,16569,348],{},[37,16571,16572,16573,16575],{},"Paint the eyes solid ",[40,16574,371],{},", corner to corner, with no white and no dot. It takes seconds and it is unsettling in exactly the right way.",[11,16577,16578,353,16580,16582],{},[40,16579,6376],{},[40,16581,1197],{}," is the greyer, colder alternative if you want the skin further from pink.",[15,16584,16586],{"id":16585},"white-markings","White markings",[11,16588,16589,16590,16592],{},"The white is what stops the model reading as a shadow, so it is worth doing properly rather than dabbing on ",[40,16591,348],{}," and hoping.",[545,16594,16595,16600,16605],{},[37,16596,549,16597,16599],{},[40,16598,305],{}," - it covers over black in one or two coats where white never will.",[37,16601,567,16602,16604],{},[40,16603,341],{},", leaving the previous coat showing in the recesses.",[37,16606,1060,16607,16609],{},[40,16608,348],{}," on the raised centre of the panel only.",[11,16611,13532,16612,6678,16614,302,16616,16618],{},[40,16613,7747],{},[40,16615,301],{},[40,16617,305],{}," undercoat, which is genuinely good on shoulder trim and squad markings.",[11,16620,16621],{},"Traditionally the left pauldron carries the chapter badge and the right carries squad markings, but the chapter fields a great many small strike forces and there is no wrong answer here. Keep whatever you choose identical across the unit; consistency reads as intent.",[15,16623,16625],{"id":16624},"lenses","Lenses",[11,16627,16628],{},"Two schools, both correct:",[34,16630,16631,16648],{},[37,16632,16633,438,16635,317,16637,16639,16640,16642,16643,16645,16646,578],{},[40,16634,6046],{},[40,16636,375],{},[40,16638,385],{}," across all but the deepest corner, ",[40,16641,1370],{}," on the lower half, then a dot of ",[40,16644,5119],{}," and finally an off-centre pinprick of ",[40,16647,348],{},[37,16649,16650,438,16653,376,16655,376,16657,16659],{},[40,16651,16652],{},"Green",[40,16654,312],{},[40,16656,320],{},[40,16658,324],{},", with the same white dot.",[11,16661,16662],{},"Whichever you pick, glaze a little of the lens colour onto the helmet around the eye so it appears to cast light, and keep the accent off the rest of the model. Two lenses and a power-weapon glow are plenty; a Raven Guard force with six bright things on each model is no longer a stealth chapter.",[15,16664,16666],{"id":16665},"metal-and-weapons","Metal and weapons",[11,16668,16669,376,16671,345,16673,16675,16676,16678],{},[40,16670,1144],{},[40,16672,356],{},[40,16674,5036],{}," on the edges of bolter casings, barrels and blades, with ",[40,16677,6260],{}," on the very sharpest corners. Keep Raven Guard metal fairly dark and matte - bright chrome fights the whole scheme.",[11,16680,16681,16682,442,16684,16686,16687,16689],{},"Bolt casings, grenades and pouches are the place to hide a second colour if the model is starting to look monotonous. A ",[40,16683,552],{},[40,16685,570],{}," pouch, or a ",[40,16688,375],{}," purity seal, breaks up the black without breaking the palette.",[15,16691,13729],{"id":13728},[11,16693,16694],{},"Urban rubble and ash suit the chapter and, more usefully, they are light. A dark model on a dark base disappears.",[11,16696,16697,11222,16700,16702,16703,16705,16706,1607,16708,16710,16711,16714],{},[40,16698,16699],{},"Astrogranite Debris",[40,16701,7053],{},", then a rim of ",[40,16704,371],{},", gives a pale cracked-ferrocrete base in two steps. ",[40,16707,11206],{},[40,16709,4868],{}," drybrush is the dustier, warmer version, and ",[40,16712,16713],{},"Martian Ironearth"," is the one to reach for if you want cracked earth rather than city.",[15,16716,16718],{"id":16717},"the-legion-in-the-heresy","The Legion, in the Heresy",[11,16720,16721,16722,16725],{},"The XIX Legion wear the same black in the Horus Heresy, usually in Mark VI plate - the beaked helmet the chapter is associated with to this day - with heavier white on the helm and shoulder for legion and company markings. The recipe above works unchanged; if you are painting a Legion force rather than a chapter one, our ",[774,16723,16724],{"href":13393},"Legiones Astartes guide"," covers the markings and the plate marks.",[15,16727,66],{"id":65},[34,16729,16730,16736,16742,16754,16760,16766],{},[37,16731,16732,16735],{},[40,16733,16734],{},"Never leave black flat."," Edge highlights are non-negotiable on a black scheme. A flat-black army looks unfinished at any distance under two feet.",[37,16737,16738,16741],{},[40,16739,16740],{},"Highlight cool, not warm."," Blue-grey edges read as armour; brown-grey reads as dust.",[37,16743,16744,16747,16748,16750,16751,16753],{},[40,16745,16746],{},"Two lines, not one heavy one."," A crisp ",[40,16749,1015],{}," edge with a finer ",[40,16752,1019],{}," inside it beats a single thick grey line every time.",[37,16755,16756,16759],{},[40,16757,16758],{},"Do not skip the pale skin."," It is four minutes a model and it is the chapter's signature.",[37,16761,16762,16765],{},[40,16763,16764],{},"Light the base."," A pale base is the single easiest thing you can do to stop a black model reading as a hole in the table.",[37,16767,16768,16771],{},[40,16769,16770],{},"Ration the accent."," One lens colour, used sparingly, across the whole army.",[11,16773,16774,16775,16779,16780,13803,16784,16787],{},"Every Raven Guard kit and box we can price - including the Combat Patrol, Kayvaan Shrike and Aethon Shaan - sits on the ",[774,16776,16778],{"href":16777},"/armies/raven-guard","Raven Guard army page",", and most of the chapter's line troops come out of the shared ",[774,16781,16783],{"href":16782},"/armies/space-marines","Space Marines range",[774,16785,822],{"href":16786},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=1a1c1f"," to swap paints between brands or push the black warmer or colder.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":16789},[16790,16791,16792,16793,16794,16795,16796,16797,16798],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":16445,"depth":89,"text":16446},{"id":16546,"depth":89,"text":16547},{"id":16585,"depth":89,"text":16586},{"id":16624,"depth":89,"text":16625},{"id":16665,"depth":89,"text":16666},{"id":13728,"depth":89,"text":13729},{"id":16717,"depth":89,"text":16718},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Raven Guard - black armour that reads as armour, cool grey edge highlights, the chapter's chalk-white skin, white markings and red or green lenses.","Raven Guard","/images/factions/raven-guard.webp","#1a1c1f","Black armour that reads as armour, not a silhouette",{},"/factions/raven-guard",{"title":16426,"description":16799},"factions/raven-guard","p0IOm4xbMFDX1pptw-JlsiQA2tzjxDq7nIYWE8FRvvk",{"id":16810,"title":16811,"body":16812,"date":96,"description":16872,"extension":98,"faction":6369,"heroImage":16873,"hex":16874,"intro":16875,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":16876,"navigation":104,"path":16877,"seo":16878,"stem":16879,"system":108,"__hash__":16880},"factions/factions/salamanders.md","How to Paint Salamanders",{"type":8,"value":16813,"toc":16866},[16814,16817,16819,16822,16824,16827,16831,16844,16846],[11,16815,16816],{},"Salamanders are one of the most visually distinct Space Marine chapters - bright green armour, jet-black skin and plenty of fire and forge imagery. The strong, saturated green makes them pop on the table, and the dark skin is a fun, unusual detail to paint.",[15,16818,18],{"id":17},[11,16820,16821],{},"Vivid green armour (brighter and more saturated than Dark Angels), black weapons and trim, gold/brass forge details, and the chapter's characteristic green glow on power weapons and drakes. Salamanders are proud of their fire and forge heritage, so flame motifs and heat-stained metal fit well.",[15,16823,5964],{"id":5963},[11,16825,16826],{},"Use the ramp above and keep the green bright. A green contrast over a white undercoat is a quick way to a clean, vivid basecoat; edge highlight with a lighter, slightly yellow-green for definition.",[15,16828,16830],{"id":16829},"black-skin-and-fiery-details","Black skin and fiery details",[34,16832,16833,16838],{},[37,16834,16835,16837],{},[40,16836,6052],{}," - basecoat black/very dark grey, then highlight with cool dark greys and a touch of purple or blue on the high points so it reads as skin, not just black plastic. Salamanders famously have glowing red/orange eyes - a tiny dot of bright orange sells it.",[37,16839,16840,16843],{},[40,16841,16842],{},"Flames and heat"," - blend orange to yellow on flamer tanks and weapon glows; heat-stain exhausts with thin blue and purple glazes over metal.",[15,16845,66],{"id":65},[34,16847,16848,16854,16860],{},[37,16849,16850,16853],{},[40,16851,16852],{},"Keep the green saturated."," Salamanders should look bright and bold.",[37,16855,16856,16859],{},[40,16857,16858],{},"Don't leave skin flat black."," Grey highlights and a bright eye make it read as flesh.",[37,16861,16862,16865],{},[40,16863,16864],{},"Use the eyes."," Glowing orange eyes are a quick, iconic touch.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":16867},[16868,16869,16870,16871],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":5963,"depth":89,"text":5964},{"id":16829,"depth":89,"text":16830},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Salamanders - the vivid green armour, black skin and fiery detailing, with tips for the chapter's signature green glow and flame motifs.","/images/factions/salamanders.webp","#1c6b43","Bright green armour, black skin and fiery accents",{},"/factions/salamanders",{"title":16811,"description":16872},"factions/salamanders","G_l0cJMTKEw5wCfXioTlJPl-ep5bC9UhJ8HEk3-eUKQ",{"id":16882,"title":16883,"body":16884,"date":96,"description":16967,"extension":98,"faction":16968,"heroImage":16969,"hex":16970,"intro":16971,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":16972,"navigation":104,"path":16973,"seo":16974,"stem":16975,"system":1667,"__hash__":16976},"factions/factions/seraphon.md","How to Paint Seraphon",{"type":8,"value":16885,"toc":16961},[16886,16889,16891,16902,16906,16917,16921,16939,16941],[11,16887,16888],{},"Seraphon are celestial dinosaurs - hulking saurus, darting skinks and giant beasts - so you are painting a lot of scaled reptilian skin. Contrast paints were practically made for this, turning a slow scale-painting job into a fast one.",[15,16890,18],{"id":17},[11,16892,16893,16894,16897,16898,16901],{},"The two classic approaches are ",[40,16895,16896],{},"Coalesced"," (warm, earthy real-lizard tones - reds, browns, greens) and ",[40,16899,16900],{},"Starborne"," (cool celestial blues and turquoise with glowing star-magic). Either way, the scaled skin is the star, supported by gold armour, bone claws and bright war-paint.",[15,16903,16905],{"id":16904},"painting-scaled-skin-fast","Painting scaled skin fast",[34,16907,16908,16911,16914],{},[37,16909,16910],{},"A skin-toned contrast over the right undercoat shades every scale automatically - blue/turquoise for Starborne, green or red-brown for Coalesced.",[37,16912,16913],{},"Drybrush a lighter tone over the scales afterwards to pop the texture.",[37,16915,16916],{},"Vary skink and saurus tones slightly so the army has depth.",[15,16918,16920],{"id":16919},"gold-bone-and-war-paint","Gold, bone and war-paint",[34,16922,16923,16928,16933],{},[37,16924,16925,16927],{},[40,16926,48],{}," armour - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight.",[37,16929,16930,16932],{},[40,16931,54],{}," claws, teeth and crests - bone basecoat, brown wash, light drybrush.",[37,16934,16935,16938],{},[40,16936,16937],{},"War-paint"," - bright accent stripes (yellow, white, red) on skinks add character and break up the scales.",[15,16940,66],{"id":65},[34,16942,16943,16949,16955],{},[37,16944,16945,16948],{},[40,16946,16947],{},"Use contrast for the scales."," Hand-shading every scale is the slow way; contrast paints are the fast way.",[37,16950,16951,16954],{},[40,16952,16953],{},"Pick a temperature."," Commit to warm (Coalesced) or cool (Starborne) so the army feels cohesive.",[37,16956,16957,16960],{},[40,16958,16959],{},"Bright war-paint."," A few bold accent colours lift the reptilian palette.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":16962},[16963,16964,16965,16966],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":16904,"depth":89,"text":16905},{"id":16919,"depth":89,"text":16920},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Seraphon - the scaled skin, gold and celestial accents of the star-lizards, with fast contrast methods for big saurus and skink hordes.","Seraphon","/images/factions/seraphon.webp","#1f7a6b","Scaled skin, gold and celestial glow for the star-lizards",{},"/factions/seraphon",{"title":16883,"description":16967},"factions/seraphon","_sDHehrIfSPXikvFtArWj5A8EjTxbe6kB30q8HFo_VQ",{"id":16978,"title":16979,"body":16980,"date":96,"description":17058,"extension":98,"faction":17059,"heroImage":17060,"hex":17061,"intro":17062,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":17063,"navigation":104,"path":17064,"seo":17065,"stem":17066,"system":1667,"__hash__":17067},"factions/factions/skaven.md","How to Paint Skaven",{"type":8,"value":16981,"toc":17052},[16982,16985,16987,16990,16994,17020,17023,17027,17030,17032],[11,16983,16984],{},"Skaven are the ultimate horde army - you need dozens of ratmen, and they are meant to look scruffy, diseased and improvised. That makes them one of the most forgiving armies to paint, where mess and grime read as character rather than mistakes.",[15,16986,18],{"id":17},[11,16988,16989],{},"A sea of mangy brown or grey fur, dirty cloth, rusty scavenged armour and weapons, pink tails and ears, and the sickly green glow of warpstone. Nothing should look clean or new - this is a verminous underhive horde.",[15,16991,16993],{"id":16992},"painting-the-horde-fast","Painting the horde fast",[34,16995,16996,17002,17008,17014],{},[37,16997,16998,17001],{},[40,16999,17000],{},"Fur"," - basecoat brown or grey, wash heavily, then a quick drybrush up. A fur contrast paint over a light undercoat does it in one pass.",[37,17003,17004,17007],{},[40,17005,17006],{},"Skin (tails, ears, hands)"," - a pink/flesh contrast over the undercoat.",[37,17009,17010,17013],{},[40,17011,17012],{},"Metal"," - dark and rusty: dark metal basecoat, brown wash, stipple orange rust.",[37,17015,17016,17019],{},[40,17017,17018],{},"Cloth"," - muted, dirty tones - olive, dull red, sackcloth.",[11,17021,17022],{},"A zenithal undercoat plus contrast paints will get a whole clanrat regiment table-ready in an evening.",[15,17024,17026],{"id":17025},"warpstone-glow","Warpstone glow",[11,17028,17029],{},"The one bright accent: glowing green warpstone on weapons and icons. A bright green over a light base, with a thin green glaze onto the surrounding metal for object-source lighting, ties the army together.",[15,17031,66],{"id":65},[34,17033,17034,17040,17046],{},[37,17035,17036,17039],{},[40,17037,17038],{},"Embrace the grime."," Heavy washes and rust suit Skaven more than any other army.",[37,17041,17042,17045],{},[40,17043,17044],{},"Vary the fur."," Slightly different brown/grey tones make a horde look like a swarm, not clones.",[37,17047,17048,17051],{},[40,17049,17050],{},"One bright accent."," Warpstone green is the only clean colour - let it pop against all the muck.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":17053},[17054,17055,17056,17057],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":16992,"depth":89,"text":16993},{"id":17025,"depth":89,"text":17026},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Skaven - the scruffy brown fur, rusty improvised metal and glowing warpstone of the ratmen, painted fast for a horde army.","Skaven","/images/factions/skaven.webp","#5a4a3a","Mangy fur, rusty metal and glowing warpstone, done fast",{},"/factions/skaven",{"title":16979,"description":17058},"factions/skaven","3wX2N3xPbEYdFr9i80Se9pwnIl-s_u5tIyJp8d3kJpk",{"id":17069,"title":17070,"body":17071,"date":507,"description":17303,"extension":98,"faction":17304,"heroImage":510,"hex":17305,"intro":17306,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":17307,"navigation":104,"path":17308,"seo":17309,"stem":17310,"system":1667,"__hash__":17311},"factions/factions/slaves-to-darkness.md","How to Paint Slaves to Darkness",{"type":8,"value":17072,"toc":17295},[17073,17076,17078,17081,17085,17111,17129,17147,17151,17177,17186,17190,17193,17250,17253,17255,17258,17260,17289],[11,17074,17075],{},"Slaves to Darkness covers both ends of Chaos: armoured Chaos Warriors, Chosen and Varanguard encased in dark plate, and the Darkoath - half-naked tribal raiders in furs and warpaint. They look nothing alike, and the trick to making them one army is to share the metals and the accent colour across both.",[15,17077,18],{"id":17},[11,17079,17080],{},"Cold, dark steel that reads almost blue-black in shadow. Tarnished brass on trim, horns and rings rather than gold. Deep red cloth as the single warm note. On the Darkoath side, sunburnt skin, dyed hide and crude woad, with the same red rags and the same dirty brass tying them to their armoured cousins.",[15,17082,17084],{"id":17083},"painting-the-dark-plate","Painting the dark plate",[545,17086,17087,17092,17097,17103],{},[37,17088,17089,17090,578],{},"Undercoat black and basecoat the armour ",[40,17091,1144],{},[37,17093,15530,17094,17096],{},[40,17095,356],{},", then a second thinned pass into the recesses only.",[37,17098,17099,17100,17102],{},"Glaze the flat plates with heavily thinned ",[40,17101,669],{}," - this is what gives the steel its cold, sinister cast.",[37,17104,6466,17105,17107,17108,17110],{},[40,17106,5036],{},", then place ",[40,17109,410],{}," on the very sharpest corners and the tips of the horns.",[11,17112,17113,17114,1325,17116,17118,17119,17121,17122,376,17124,1381,17126,17128],{},"For a matt-black variant, ",[40,17115,1324],{},[40,17117,1144],{}," darkens the plate in one coat and still takes an ",[40,17120,5036],{}," edge. Brass goes ",[40,17123,1563],{},[40,17125,559],{},[40,17127,1573],{}," edge; keep it dull, because bright gold makes Chaos Warriors look ceremonial.",[11,17130,17131,17132,1903,17134,17136,17137,17139,17140,17142,17143,1162,17145,578],{},"Cloth and cloaks are ",[40,17133,375],{},[40,17135,356],{}," shade and ",[40,17138,441],{}," on the raised folds, with ",[40,17141,5116],{}," only where the fabric catches light. Leather is ",[40,17144,712],{},[40,17146,988],{},[15,17148,17150],{"id":17149},"the-darkoath","The Darkoath",[11,17152,17153,17154,1087,17156,317,17158,4642,17160,17162,17163,1325,17165,17167,17168,302,17170,17172,17173,1535,17175,578],{},"Bare skin means a different discipline. Basecoat ",[40,17155,1041],{},[40,17157,1046],{},[40,17159,1056],{},[40,17161,1063],{}," - or use ",[40,17164,1187],{},[40,17166,301],{}," for a fast, weathered result on a warband of twenty. Furs take ",[40,17169,1180],{},[40,17171,646],{}," contrast over bone; rope and rags go ",[40,17174,552],{},[40,17176,559],{},[11,17178,17179,17180,17182,17183,17185],{},"Warpaint is the detail that sells them. Thin ",[40,17181,6453],{}," into a wash consistency and paint rough bands across the face, chest and upper arms, then edge the marks with ",[40,17184,388],{}," where they sit on raised skin. Keep the shapes crude and asymmetric - neat warpaint looks like face paint.",[15,17187,17189],{"id":17188},"the-four-marks","The four marks",[11,17191,17192],{},"The easiest way to theme a force is to shift the accent colour rather than the armour:",[34,17194,17195,17207,17219,17235],{},[37,17196,17197,438,17200,17202,17203,612,17205,5581],{},[40,17198,17199],{},"Khorne",[40,17201,375],{}," cloth, heavy ",[40,17204,1563],{},[40,17206,1570],{},[37,17208,17209,438,17212,5620,17214,17216,17217,578],{},[40,17210,17211],{},"Tzeentch",[40,17213,6453],{},[40,17215,4899],{},", with gold pushed up to ",[40,17218,1409],{},[37,17220,17221,438,17224,17226,17227,17229,17230,1535,17232,17234],{},[40,17222,17223],{},"Nurgle",[40,17225,4843],{}," cloth, ",[40,17228,4846],{}," over the metal, and ",[40,17231,1151],{},[40,17233,1155],{}," everywhere.",[37,17236,17237,438,17240,442,17242,17244,17245,17247,17248,578],{},[40,17238,17239],{},"Slaanesh",[40,17241,4881],{},[40,17243,4891],{}," cloth, and ",[40,17246,1414],{}," trim edged ",[40,17249,6260],{},[11,17251,17252],{},"Undivided means picking two of those and letting neither win, which is often the best-looking option.",[15,17254,8818],{"id":8817},[11,17256,17257],{},"Chaos Warriors are quick out of all proportion to how good they look, because the plate is basecoat, two washes and an edge - and dark metal is the most forgiving surface in the hobby. Varanguard and Archaon are the opposite: hours of trim, ornament and detail on a single model. A sensible plan is to knock out the infantry blocks first for a playable force, then treat the characters as projects.",[15,17259,66],{"id":65},[34,17261,17262,17271,17277,17283],{},[37,17263,17264,17267,17268,17270],{},[40,17265,17266],{},"Glaze the steel cold."," A thin blue glaze over washed ",[40,17269,1144],{}," is the whole difference between \"Chaos\" and \"generic knight\".",[37,17272,17273,17276],{},[40,17274,17275],{},"Dull the brass."," Under-washed bronze looks like cheap jewellery.",[37,17278,17279,17282],{},[40,17280,17281],{},"One red, everywhere."," Using the same red on armoured and Darkoath units binds the army together.",[37,17284,17285,17288],{},[40,17286,17287],{},"Crude warpaint."," Rough, uneven marks read as ritual; tidy ones do not.",[11,17290,17291,17292,578],{},"Try a mark's accent against the base steel in the ",[774,17293,1265],{"href":17294},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=3b4753",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":17296},[17297,17298,17299,17300,17301,17302],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":17083,"depth":89,"text":17084},{"id":17149,"depth":89,"text":17150},{"id":17188,"depth":89,"text":17189},{"id":8817,"depth":89,"text":8818},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Slaves to Darkness - cold blue-black plate, tarnished brass and deep red cloth on Chaos Warriors, plus Darkoath skin and warpaint and palettes for the four marks.","Slaves to Darkness","#3b4753","Cold dark plate, brass trim and deep red cloth",{},"/factions/slaves-to-darkness",{"title":17070,"description":17303},"factions/slaves-to-darkness","tGkiNAxS88xbihPEhZboJul9VVtXmo-3vjw80gc7a9U",{"id":17313,"title":17314,"body":17315,"date":507,"description":17445,"extension":98,"faction":17446,"heroImage":510,"hex":17447,"intro":17448,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":17449,"navigation":104,"path":17450,"seo":17451,"stem":17452,"system":12819,"__hash__":17453},"factions/factions/solar-auxilia.md","How to Paint Solar Auxilia",{"type":8,"value":17316,"toc":17438},[17317,17320,17324,17327,17353,17356,17360,17392,17394,17397,17401,17404,17406,17432],[11,17318,17319],{},"Solar Auxilia are the Imperium's professional human soldiery in the Age of Darkness: sealed void-capable carapace, respirator helms, disciplined sections of infantry and a very large amount of armour behind them. The look is deliberately cold and uniform - pale plate over a near-black bodyglove - and it batch-paints beautifully, which is just as well, because you will be painting a lot of them.",[15,17321,17323],{"id":17322},"the-pale-carapace","The pale carapace",[11,17325,17326],{},"Light armour is the whole scheme, so it is worth doing properly rather than washing a white model brown.",[545,17328,17329,17335,17341,17347],{},[37,17330,17331,17334],{},[40,17332,17333],{},"Undercoat grey",", not black. Grey Seer from an aerosol gets you most of the way to the finished colour in one pass.",[37,17336,17337,17340],{},[40,17338,17339],{},"Shade with a cool wash."," Thinned Drakenhof Nightshade in the recesses keeps the shadows blue-grey and stops the plate going yellow. Apothecary White is the faster route - one coat into the recesses and you are done.",[37,17342,17343,17346],{},[40,17344,17345],{},"Re-layer the flats"," with Grey Seer, then bring the raised plate up with Ulthuan Grey.",[37,17348,17349,17352],{},[40,17350,17351],{},"Edge highlight White Scar"," on the hardest corners only. Do not highlight everything, or the model loses its shape.",[11,17354,17355],{},"Vallejo Off-White and Army Painter Ash Grey substitute directly if you prefer them.",[15,17357,17359],{"id":17358},"bodyglove-webbing-and-kit","Bodyglove, webbing and kit",[34,17361,17362,17368,17374,17380,17386],{},[37,17363,17364,17367],{},[40,17365,17366],{},"Bodyglove, gloves and boots:"," Corvus Black basecoat, edged Eshin Grey. Keeping this genuinely dark is what makes the carapace read as pale.",[37,17369,17370,17373],{},[40,17371,17372],{},"Webbing, pouches and holsters:"," Rhinox Hide, shaded nothing at all, highlighted Mournfang Brown.",[37,17375,17376,17379],{},[40,17377,17378],{},"Weapons and helm fittings:"," Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil, Ironbreaker.",[37,17381,17382,17385],{},[40,17383,17384],{},"Section and cohort markings:"," a warm red does the identifying work. Mephiston Red basecoat with an Evil Sunz Scarlet highlight on shoulder plates, banners and stripes.",[37,17387,17388,17391],{},[40,17389,17390],{},"Lenses and vision slits:"," Incubi Darkness into Sotek Green, with a White Scar dot.",[15,17393,2342],{"id":3187},[11,17395,17396],{},"The tanks take exactly the same recipe on a bigger surface, and they are where the army earns its presence. Spray the carapace colour, panel-line the plates with thinned Nuln Oil, then weather from the ground up: a Karak Stone drybrush on the lower hull and running gear, streaks of thinned Agrax Earthshade pulled down from every bolt and vent, a stipple of Typhus Corrosion with Ryza Rust dabbed into it around exhausts and tow hooks, and Agrellan Earth on the tracks. Sponge a few Rhinox Hide chips along the leading edges. Stop before it looks abandoned - these are maintained machines.",[15,17398,17400],{"id":17399},"preparation-which-is-the-real-cost","Preparation, which is the real cost",[11,17402,17403],{},"A large part of the Solar Auxilia range is resin, and resin is where the time goes. Wash every sprue in warm soapy water to remove the release agent, or nothing will stick. Scrape mould lines with a hobby knife rather than filing them, since the seams run straight across the flat carapace where they show worst. Dunk warped weapons and banner poles in hot water and hold them straight under cold. Pin anything heavy. Budget an evening of preparation per section before a brush comes out - the painting itself is quick, the assembly is not.",[15,17405,66],{"id":65},[34,17407,17408,17414,17420,17426],{},[37,17409,17410,17413],{},[40,17411,17412],{},"Cool shadows."," Brown-shading pale grey armour turns it into bone. Use a blue-grey wash and it stays cold and military.",[37,17415,17416,17419],{},[40,17417,17418],{},"Batch by step, not by model."," Ten bodies through the basecoat, then ten through the wash. The scheme is short enough that this is genuinely fast.",[37,17421,17422,17425],{},[40,17423,17424],{},"Keep faces simple."," Most of them are helmeted anyway; one flesh tone, one wash, one highlight is plenty.",[37,17427,17428,17431],{},[40,17429,17430],{},"Weather the tanks, not the troops."," A little dust on the boots, and save the rust and streaking for the armour.",[11,17433,7166,17434,17437],{},[774,17435,822],{"href":17436},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=b6bcc0"," to swap paints between brands or warm the carapace towards bone.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":17439},[17440,17441,17442,17443,17444],{"id":17322,"depth":89,"text":17323},{"id":17358,"depth":89,"text":17359},{"id":3187,"depth":89,"text":2342},{"id":17399,"depth":89,"text":17400},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Solar Auxilia - pale sealed carapace armour over a near-black bodyglove, with a fast batch method for infantry sections and the resin preparation the range demands.","Solar Auxilia","#b6bcc0","Pale carapace, dark bodyglove, tanks and a great deal of resin",{},"/factions/solar-auxilia",{"title":17314,"description":17445},"factions/solar-auxilia","nZ6-tcCoHAl4jr17jZ3s1ghuYk3wfXhZ9cniYXJmWZE",{"id":17455,"title":17456,"body":17457,"date":507,"description":17661,"extension":98,"faction":17662,"heroImage":510,"hex":17663,"intro":17664,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":17665,"navigation":104,"path":17666,"seo":17667,"stem":17668,"system":1667,"__hash__":17669},"factions/factions/sons-of-behemat.md","How to Paint Sons of Behemat",{"type":8,"value":17458,"toc":17653},[17459,17462,17464,17467,17471,17474,17502,17516,17530,17534,17565,17569,17595,17599,17608,17619,17621,17647],[11,17460,17461],{},"Sons of Behemat is the strangest painting project in Age of Sigmar, because an entire army is three or four models. There is no batch painting, no unit discipline, no shortcut for a block of twenty. Every model you own is a centrepiece, and every one of them will be picked up and looked at closely. That changes how you should approach it: paint a gargant the way you would paint a display piece, not the way you would paint a regiment.",[15,17463,18],{"id":17},[11,17465,17466],{},"Weathered, sun-coarsened skin covering enormous surfaces. Scavenged human junk worn as gear - ship's timbers, netting, anchors, stolen banners, an unfortunate soldier tied to a belt. Rusted iron, salt-bleached rope and dirty cloth. The palette is entirely earthy, so the small trophies are where colour belongs.",[15,17468,17470],{"id":17469},"painting-skin-at-scale","Painting skin at scale",[11,17472,17473],{},"A gargant's forearm is larger than a whole infantry model, which means flat basecoating shows and blending pays off.",[545,17475,17476,17479,17484,17489,17497],{},[37,17477,17478],{},"Undercoat black, then spray or brush a grey zenithal so the light direction is already established.",[37,17480,549,17481,17483],{},[40,17482,1041],{}," over the whole body.",[37,17485,716,17486,17488],{},[40,17487,1046],{},", concentrating it in the belly folds, armpits and behind the knees.",[37,17490,567,17491,17493,17494,17496],{},[40,17492,1056],{}," across everything that faces upward, then ",[40,17495,1063],{}," on the shoulders, brow, nose and knuckles.",[37,17498,1067,17499,17501],{},[40,17500,1050],{}," over the nose, ears, elbows and knees so the skin looks like it has blood under it.",[11,17503,17504,17505,1325,17507,17509,17510,17512,17513,17515],{},"The fast route on this much surface area is ",[40,17506,1187],{},[40,17508,301],{},", followed by a ",[40,17511,1063],{}," drybrush - and a drybrush genuinely works here, because the sculpting is coarse enough to catch it. See the ",[774,17514,12255],{"href":1025}," for keeping it clean over large areas.",[11,17517,17518,17519,1387,17521,1995,17523,1047,17525,442,17527,17529],{},"Hair and beards go ",[40,17520,988],{},[40,17522,559],{},[40,17524,590],{},[40,17526,552],{},[40,17528,570],{}," for a blonde. Eyes are worth the effort at this scale - they are large enough to paint properly, so do them.",[15,17531,17533],{"id":17532},"scrap-rust-and-trophies","Scrap, rust and trophies",[11,17535,17536,17537,376,17539,17541,17542,15350,17544,17546,17547,3536,17549,17551,17552,376,17554,376,17556,17558,17559,17561,17562,17564],{},"Everything a gargant carries was stolen. Iron goes ",[40,17538,1144],{},[40,17540,356],{},", a sponge stipple of ",[40,17543,1151],{},[40,17545,1155],{},". Timber takes ",[40,17548,712],{},[40,17550,590],{}," with the grain. Rope and netting: ",[40,17553,552],{},[40,17555,559],{},[40,17557,570],{},". Save your brightest colours - a ",[40,17560,5467],{}," tabard, a ",[40,17563,441],{}," banner - for the trophies hanging off the belt, where they read as somebody else's army.",[15,17566,17568],{"id":17567},"tribal-palettes","Tribal palettes",[34,17570,17571,17580,17589],{},[37,17572,17573,17576,17577,17579],{},[40,17574,17575],{},"Taker tribes"," - coastal scavengers. Net, driftwood and ",[40,17578,665],{}," cloth, with damp-looking skin and seaweed on the base.",[37,17581,17582,17585,17586,17588],{},[40,17583,17584],{},"Breaker tribes"," - siege wreckers. Stone dust and rubble, ",[40,17587,1019],{}," grey scrap and heavier rust.",[37,17590,17591,17594],{},[40,17592,17593],{},"Stomper tribes"," - everything else, and the excuse to mix the two.",[15,17596,17598],{"id":17597},"bases-and-speed","Bases and speed",[11,17600,17601,17602,17604,17605,17607],{},"The base is a quarter of the model. On a footprint that size, plain texture paint looks bare - build up rubble, broken walls, a crushed cart, a flattened victim. ",[40,17603,11221],{}," for wet mud or ",[40,17606,768],{}," for cracked ground, then static grass and a few larger pieces to break the flatness.",[11,17609,17610,17611,17614,17615,17618],{},"As for speed: this army is quick to ",[2334,17612,17613],{},"own"," and slow to ",[2334,17616,17617],{},"finish",". Three models is not many, but a mega-gargant is comfortably ten hours of work if you do it justice, and none of that time can be batched away. The upside is that a fully painted Sons of Behemat force is achievable in a way a fully painted horde army is not.",[15,17620,66],{"id":65},[34,17622,17623,17629,17635,17641],{},[37,17624,17625,17628],{},[40,17626,17627],{},"Zenithal first."," Establishing light direction before colour is what stops a large flat body looking like a slab.",[37,17630,17631,17634],{},[40,17632,17633],{},"Glaze the blood flow."," Red at the nose, ears, elbows and knees is what makes skin look alive.",[37,17636,17637,17640],{},[40,17638,17639],{},"Colour lives on the trophies."," Keep the giant earthy and let the stolen banners be bright.",[37,17642,17643,17646],{},[40,17644,17645],{},"Build the base properly."," On a footprint this large, a bare texture coat undoes the model.",[11,17648,17649,17650,15478],{},"Set your skin tone against a tribal accent in the ",[774,17651,1265],{"href":17652},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=9c5a3c",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":17654},[17655,17656,17657,17658,17659,17660],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":17469,"depth":89,"text":17470},{"id":17532,"depth":89,"text":17533},{"id":17567,"depth":89,"text":17568},{"id":17597,"depth":89,"text":17598},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Sons of Behemat - weathered gargant skin at display scale, scavenged scrap armour and enormous bases, with tribal palettes and advice on painting an army of three models.","Sons of Behemat","#9c5a3c","Weathered giant skin, scrap armour and huge bases",{},"/factions/sons-of-behemat",{"title":17456,"description":17661},"factions/sons-of-behemat","lNVkl1C8Hu1g4PWPPc7XRqxBbyRBNPTAGdjCMcnK-cM",{"id":17671,"title":17672,"body":17673,"date":507,"description":17911,"extension":98,"faction":17912,"heroImage":510,"hex":17913,"intro":17914,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":17915,"navigation":104,"path":17916,"seo":17917,"stem":17918,"system":1667,"__hash__":17919},"factions/factions/soulblight-gravelords.md","How to Paint Soulblight Gravelords",{"type":8,"value":17674,"toc":17902},[17675,17678,17680,17687,17691,17703,17718,17722,17747,17759,17763,17791,17806,17810,17863,17865,17868,17870,17895],[11,17676,17677],{},"Soulblight is two painting projects wearing one banner. The rank and file - skeletons, zombies, dire wolves - is a horde you want off the workbench as fast as possible. The vampires are jewel-like character models you will happily spend an evening each on. Treat them differently, and the army arrives quickly without looking like it was rushed.",[15,17679,18],{"id":17},[11,17681,17682,17683,17686],{},"Old, dirty bone. Grey-green rotting flesh. Porcelain-pale vampire skin against deep crimson and black. Tarnished iron on the dead, and clean gold on the nobility - the class difference between the risen and the risen ",[2334,17684,17685],{},"well"," is the most interesting thing in the palette.",[15,17688,17690],{"id":17689},"skeletons-in-one-coat","Skeletons in one coat",[11,17692,17693,17694,17696,17697,17699,17700,17702],{},"This is as fast as a horde army gets. Undercoat ",[40,17695,301],{}," and lay ",[40,17698,638],{}," contrast over the whole model - it bases and shades bone, cloth and rusted iron simultaneously. Drybrush ",[40,17701,577],{}," over the ribs, skull and shoulders, pick out the shields, and the model is done. Twenty Deathrattle Skeletons in an evening is entirely realistic.",[11,17704,17705,17706,376,17708,317,17710,1906,17712,17714,17715,17717],{},"If you want more depth on the Grave Guard and Barrow Knights, do it properly instead: ",[40,17707,552],{},[40,17709,559],{},[40,17711,570],{},[40,17713,577],{},", then a spot of ",[40,17716,563],{}," in the eye sockets before you drop in a dot of light.",[15,17719,17721],{"id":17720},"zombies-and-wolves","Zombies and wolves",[11,17723,17724,17725,1087,17727,17729,17730,17732,17733,612,17735,17737,17738,1325,17740,17742,17743,1535,17745,578],{},"Deadwalker Zombies want sickly, not skeletal. Basecoat ",[40,17726,6376],{},[40,17728,4846],{}," so the flesh goes green in the hollows, layer ",[40,17731,6376],{}," again on the raised skin and glaze small patches of ",[40,17734,4884],{},[40,17736,1050],{}," as bruising and exposed muscle. ",[40,17739,4837],{},[40,17741,301],{}," does a decent one-coat version. Rags go ",[40,17744,598],{},[40,17746,559],{},[11,17748,17749,17750,3536,17752,612,17754,1114,17756,17758],{},"Dire wolves and fell bats take ",[40,17751,712],{},[40,17753,11128],{},[40,17755,590],{},[40,17757,584],{}," on the exposed bone.",[15,17760,17762],{"id":17761},"vampires","Vampires",[11,17764,17765,17766,17768,17769,17771,17772,17774,17775,17777,17778,1903,17780,2870,17782,17784,17785,17787,17788,17790],{},"Slow down here. Skin is ",[40,17767,6376],{},", shaded with thinned ",[40,17770,4884],{}," rather than a brown wash, layered ",[40,17773,584],{}," and finished with ",[40,17776,1132],{}," on the cheekbones, nose and knuckles - cold and bloodless. Cloaks and armour go ",[40,17779,375],{},[40,17781,356],{},[40,17783,441],{}," layer and ",[40,17786,5116],{}," edge; ",[40,17789,1527],{}," contrast is the quick alternative and stays convincingly dark.",[11,17792,17793,17794,376,17796,376,17798,6497,17800,17802,17803,17805],{},"Gold is what separates them from their servants: ",[40,17795,691],{},[40,17797,559],{},[40,17799,1409],{},[40,17801,6260],{}," on the finest edges. Blood Knights get the same treatment across their plate, which is why a six-model unit takes as long as forty skeletons. Finish with ",[40,17804,1588],{}," at the mouth and on the last third of the blade - restraint matters, since these are aristocrats rather than butchers.",[15,17807,17809],{"id":17808},"dynasty-palettes","Dynasty palettes",[34,17811,17812,17818,17830,17843,17852],{},[37,17813,17814,17817],{},[40,17815,17816],{},"Kastelai"," - crimson and gold, the recipe above pushed onto every unit including the skeletons' shields.",[37,17819,17820,17823,17824,442,17826,692,17828,578],{},[40,17821,17822],{},"Legion of Blood"," - regal purple and pale gold. ",[40,17825,4940],{},[40,17827,4943],{},[40,17829,4884],{},[37,17831,17832,17835,17836,17838,17839,1114,17841,5581],{},[40,17833,17834],{},"Legion of Night"," - black and dark green. ",[40,17837,371],{}," cloaks edged ",[40,17840,1015],{},[40,17842,312],{},[37,17844,17845,17848,17849,17851],{},[40,17846,17847],{},"Vyrkos"," - feral and muted. Furs, ",[40,17850,598],{}," cloth and far less gold.",[37,17853,17854,17857,17858,612,17860,17862],{},[40,17855,17856],{},"Avengorii"," - monstrous and pale. Lean on ",[40,17859,584],{},[40,17861,7747],{}," across the whole model.",[15,17864,8818],{"id":8817},[11,17866,17867],{},"The honest judgement: the horde half of this army is among the quickest in the game thanks to a contrast paint made specifically for it, and the character half is among the slowest. Paint the skeletons and zombies first in big batches, get a playable force on the table, and let the vampires be the reward. Do not start with a unit of Blood Knights unless you want to lose a fortnight before your first game.",[15,17869,66],{"id":65},[34,17871,17872,17878,17884,17890],{},[37,17873,17874,17877],{},[40,17875,17876],{},"Dirty the bone."," Clean white bone looks like plastic; keep it warm and grubby.",[37,17879,17880,17883],{},[40,17881,17882],{},"Shade vampire skin with violet."," Brown washes make them look tanned, which is the one thing a vampire is not.",[37,17885,17886,17889],{},[40,17887,17888],{},"Consistent bases."," Graveyard bases across horde and characters alike are what tie two very different paint standards into one army.",[37,17891,17892,17894],{},[40,17893,1643],{}," Mouth and blade edge only.",[11,17896,17897,17898,17901],{},"Set your crimson before you start the vampires - ",[774,17899,5674],{"href":17900},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=5e1f33"," to compare it against the dynasty options.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":17903},[17904,17905,17906,17907,17908,17909,17910],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":17689,"depth":89,"text":17690},{"id":17720,"depth":89,"text":17721},{"id":17761,"depth":89,"text":17762},{"id":17808,"depth":89,"text":17809},{"id":8817,"depth":89,"text":8818},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Soulblight Gravelords - one-coat skeleton hordes, rotting zombie flesh and porcelain-pale vampires in deep crimson, with dynasty palettes for Kastelai, Vyrkos and the rest.","Soulblight Gravelords","#5e1f33","Old bone, rotting flesh and vampiric crimson",{},"/factions/soulblight-gravelords",{"title":17672,"description":17911},"factions/soulblight-gravelords","ZfmlQh9Hs3pEpmp1-shaHKZ9LfHn3AaW6yOcuAx-k3s",{"id":17921,"title":17922,"body":17923,"date":96,"description":18038,"extension":98,"faction":18039,"heroImage":18040,"hex":18041,"intro":18042,"lastUpdated":11290,"meta":18043,"navigation":104,"path":18044,"seo":18045,"stem":18046,"system":108,"__hash__":18047},"factions/factions/space-marines.md","How to Paint Space Marines (Any Chapter)",{"type":8,"value":17924,"toc":18032},[17925,17928,17930,17933,17937,17940,17960,17964,17967,18004,18006],[11,17926,17927],{},"Space Marines are the most painted miniatures in the hobby, and for good reason: large, clean armour panels make them an ideal canvas for learning the core techniques of basecoat, shade and highlight. The method below is chapter-agnostic - it is the same three steps whether your armour is blue, red, green, black or yellow, and the only thing that changes is which pot the basecoat comes out of. Pick your chapter's colour in the scheme generator and the recipe rebuilds itself around it.",[15,17929,18],{"id":17},[11,17931,17932],{},"Every chapter shares the same shape: hard, angular armour panels in one dominant colour, metal or contrasting trim, chapter markings on one shoulder, and bone or parchment purity seals. Whatever colour you choose should read rich and saturated rather than washed-out, with crisp edge highlights to define the plates - that contrast between flat panel and bright edge is what makes a Marine look like a Marine.",[15,17934,17936],{"id":17935},"painting-the-armour","Painting the armour",[11,17938,17939],{},"The recipe above gives you the full ramp, but the technique matters as much as the paints:",[545,17941,17942,17948,17954],{},[37,17943,17944,17947],{},[40,17945,17946],{},"Basecoat smoothly."," Thin your base colour with a little water and do two thin coats rather than one thick one - thick paint clogs the detail and dries patchy.",[37,17949,17950,17953],{},[40,17951,17952],{},"Shade in the recesses only."," Use a targeted wash in the joints and panel lines rather than slopping it over the whole model, so the flat armour stays clean.",[37,17955,17956,17959],{},[40,17957,17958],{},"Edge highlight."," This is what makes Space Marines pop. Drag a fine brush along the topmost edges with the highlight colour, then hit only the corners with the edge-highlight tone. Keep the line thin.",[15,17961,17963],{"id":17962},"choosing-a-chapter-colour","Choosing a chapter colour",[11,17965,17966],{},"Every chapter is the same method with a different base colour. Open the chapter's armour colour in the scheme generator and the recipe rebuilds itself:",[34,17968,17969,17979,17984,17989,17994,17999],{},[37,17970,17971,17973,17974,17978],{},[40,17972,6325],{}," - deep cobalt blue, gold trim (the full recipe is in ",[774,17975,17977],{"href":17976},"/factions/ultramarines","How to Paint Ultramarines",").",[37,17980,17981,17983],{},[40,17982,1750],{}," - deep red, gold trim.",[37,17985,17986,17988],{},[40,17987,6014],{}," - dark green, bone robes.",[37,17990,17991,17993],{},[40,17992,6350],{}," - yellow (build yellow up from a brown/orange base for coverage).",[37,17995,17996,17998],{},[40,17997,6359],{}," - blue-grey with lots of metal and fur.",[37,18000,18001,18003],{},[40,18002,6369],{}," - dark green with a green-stable energy and black skin.",[15,18005,66],{"id":65},[34,18007,18008,18014,18020,18026],{},[37,18009,18010,18013],{},[40,18011,18012],{},"Two thin coats beats one thick coat."," Almost every \"my Marines look messy\" problem traces back to over-thick paint.",[37,18015,18016,18019],{},[40,18017,18018],{},"Don't over-wash."," A full-model wash muddies the clean armour. Shade the recesses, not the panels.",[37,18021,18022,18025],{},[40,18023,18024],{},"Gold trim last."," Paint the trim after the armour so you can tidy any overspill with the armour colour, then a brown wash brings the gold to life.",[37,18027,18028,18031],{},[40,18029,18030],{},"Decals over edge highlights."," Apply transfers after highlighting, then a matt varnish blends them into the surface.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18033},[18034,18035,18036,18037],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":17935,"depth":89,"text":17936},{"id":17962,"depth":89,"text":17963},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A step-by-step guide to painting Space Marines - the basecoat, shade and edge-highlight method that works for every chapter, and how to swap the armour colour for the one you want.","Space Marines","/images/factions/space-marines.webp","#15407a","The core armour method - basecoat, shade, edge highlight - for any chapter you pick",{},"/factions/space-marines",{"title":17922,"description":18038},"factions/space-marines","3Z86VKbSrMfuvZw7WFZJtMRrQ9nwTOOhDiceo3TUlR0",{"id":18049,"title":18050,"body":18051,"date":96,"description":18119,"extension":98,"faction":6359,"heroImage":18120,"hex":18121,"intro":18122,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":18123,"navigation":104,"path":18124,"seo":18125,"stem":18126,"system":108,"__hash__":18127},"factions/factions/space-wolves.md","How to Paint Space Wolves",{"type":8,"value":18052,"toc":18113},[18053,18056,18058,18061,18063,18066,18070,18073,18091,18093],[11,18054,18055],{},"Space Wolves are the most texture-rich Space Marines - their kits are loaded with fur, pelts, leather, talismans and bare metal - which makes them a joy for painters who enjoy weathering and detail over clean panels.",[15,18057,18],{"id":17},[11,18059,18060],{},"The armour is a cool blue-grey (lighter and greyer than Ultramarine blue), worn and battered, paired with lots of brown leather, grey/white fur, bronze and steel, and red or yellow pack markings.",[15,18062,17936],{"id":17935},[11,18064,18065],{},"Use the ramp above for the blue-grey, then lean into wear and tear: sponge or fine-brush chips on the edges, and a light grime wash in the recesses. Space Wolves should look like they have actually been to war.",[15,18067,18069],{"id":18068},"fur-leather-and-metal","Fur, leather and metal",[11,18071,18072],{},"This is where the chapter shines:",[34,18074,18075,18080,18086],{},[37,18076,18077,18079],{},[40,18078,17000],{}," - basecoat grey or brown, wash, then a heavy drybrush up to near-white. Fur is fast and forgiving.",[37,18081,18082,18085],{},[40,18083,18084],{},"Leather"," - brown basecoat, brown wash, light highlight; vary the tones so straps and pouches don't look uniform.",[37,18087,18088,18090],{},[40,18089,17012],{}," - keep it dark and dirty with a brown/black wash; bright steel looks wrong on Space Wolves.",[15,18092,66],{"id":65},[34,18094,18095,18101,18107],{},[37,18096,18097,18100],{},[40,18098,18099],{},"Don't paint the armour too blue."," It is a grey with a blue lean, not a primary blue.",[37,18102,18103,18106],{},[40,18104,18105],{},"Drybrush the fur."," It is the single fastest high-impact technique on these models.",[37,18108,18109,18112],{},[40,18110,18111],{},"Embrace weathering."," Chips, grime and battle damage suit Space Wolves more than any other loyalist chapter.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18114},[18115,18116,18117,18118],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":17935,"depth":89,"text":17936},{"id":18068,"depth":89,"text":18069},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Space Wolves - the blue-grey armour, plus the fur, leather, metal and runes that make this the most characterful Space Marine chapter to paint.","/images/factions/space-wolves.webp","#7c8a94","Blue-grey armour, fur, leather and lots of weathering",{},"/factions/space-wolves",{"title":18050,"description":18119},"factions/space-wolves","bTVAZo3TMOctP3J4_CnFxCER5AKgBWttu-Q2h388ho8",{"id":18129,"title":18130,"body":18131,"date":833,"description":18373,"extension":98,"faction":18374,"heroImage":510,"hex":18375,"intro":18376,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":18377,"navigation":104,"path":18378,"seo":18379,"stem":18380,"system":842,"__hash__":18381},"factions/factions/spyre-hunters.md","How to Paint Spyre Hunters",{"type":8,"value":18132,"toc":18365},[18133,18136,18139,18141,18144,18148,18151,18187,18196,18200,18203,18232,18246,18248,18251,18277,18280,18284,18287,18302,18322,18325,18327,18359],[11,18134,18135],{},"Spyre Hunters are the smallest gang in Necromunda and the most rewarding to paint slowly. There are only a handful of models in a crew, every one of them is a bespoke sculpt, and the whole look rests on one effect: a smooth, pale, faintly iridescent hunting rig with nothing dirty anywhere on it. Where the rest of the underhive is rust and patched leather, these are laboratory-clean.",[11,18137,18138],{},"That also means there is nowhere to hide. A pearlescent surface shows every brush mark, so thin your paints further than feels necessary and expect more coats.",[15,18140,18],{"id":17},[11,18142,18143],{},"Pale, cool, almost white armour plate with a soft blue-grey shadow and a hint of shifting colour across the panels, wrapped around a matt near-black bodyglove, with two or three small hot points of red or blue light at the optics and power cells. The contrast between a satin rig and a dead-flat suit is what makes the armour look polished - a model painted entirely in pale grey just looks unfinished.",[15,18145,18147],{"id":18146},"the-pearlescent-plate","The pearlescent plate",[11,18149,18150],{},"This is the non-metallic route, and it gives the truest pearl.",[545,18152,18153,18159,18165,18170,18175],{},[37,18154,18155,18156,18158],{},"Spray or basecoat ",[40,18157,305],{}," and get it perfectly smooth. Everything after this depends on that surface.",[37,18160,18161,18162,18164],{},"Shade the panel lines and recesses with thinned ",[40,18163,669],{},". A cold blue shadow under a pale grey is the entire pearl illusion; a black or brown wash here makes it look like dirty plastic.",[37,18166,567,18167,18169],{},[40,18168,341],{}," across the upper faces of each plate.",[37,18171,7487,18172,18174],{},[40,18173,348],{}," on the top edges and the crest of each curve.",[37,18176,18177,18178,18180,18181,18183,18184,18186],{},"The pearl step: glaze very thin ",[40,18179,4899],{}," into a couple of panels, ",[40,18182,6526],{}," into one or two others, and a breath of ",[40,18185,4851],{}," somewhere low. Each glaze should be barely visible on its own. The shifting tint across neighbouring plates is what the eye reads as iridescence.",[11,18188,5806,18189,442,18191,2730,18193,18195],{},[40,18190,9722],{},[40,18192,9725],{},[40,18194,2510],{}," into a white, cover the same ramp.",[15,18197,18199],{"id":18198},"the-chrome-alternative","The chrome alternative",[11,18201,18202],{},"If you would rather have true metal:",[545,18204,18205,18211,18216,18220,18224],{},[37,18206,18207,18208,18210],{},"Gloss black undercoat, then basecoat ",[40,18209,1144],{},". The gloss underneath is what gives metallic paint its shine.",[37,18212,556,18213,18215],{},[40,18214,356],{}," into the recesses only - never over the whole plate, which is what turns chrome into pewter.",[37,18217,567,18218,15120],{},[40,18219,5036],{},[37,18221,7487,18222,578],{},[40,18223,6260],{},[37,18225,1067,18226,18228,18229,18231],{},[40,18227,669],{}," across the flats to cool the steel, and ",[40,18230,4899],{}," over one or two panels for the same shifting effect as the pale route.",[11,18233,5806,18234,612,18237,2730,18239,442,18242,18245],{},[40,18235,18236],{},"Chain Mail Silver",[40,18238,9541],{},[40,18240,18241],{},"Plate Mail Metal",[40,18243,18244],{},"Mithral Silver",", substitute directly.",[15,18247,10731],{"id":10730},[11,18249,18250],{},"The suit under the plate does the structural work, and it wants to be genuinely flat.",[545,18252,18253,18257,18262,18268],{},[37,18254,549,18255,578],{},[40,18256,371],{},[37,18258,567,18259,18261],{},[40,18260,1015],{}," on the raised muscle and the tops of the limbs, keeping it tight.",[37,18263,18264,18265,18267],{},"A very restrained ",[40,18266,1019],{}," edge on the sharpest folds only.",[37,18269,18270,18271,18273,18274,578],{},"Knock the whole thing back with thinned ",[40,18272,356],{},", then matt varnish it with ",[40,18275,18276],{},"Munitorum Varnish",[11,18278,18279],{},"Resist highlighting this brightly. Every step you take the bodyglove towards grey, the rig loses shine by comparison.",[15,18281,18283],{"id":18282},"lenses-and-energy-glows","Lenses and energy glows",[11,18285,18286],{},"The only warm colour on the model, so make it count.",[11,18288,18289,812,18292,6302,18294,6305,18296,18298,18299,18301],{},[40,18290,18291],{},"Red optics and power cells:",[40,18293,375],{},[40,18295,385],{},[40,18297,1370],{}," at the lower edge, a ",[40,18300,348],{}," dot in the top corner, then gloss varnish just the lens.",[11,18303,18304,812,18307,14685,18309,9579,18311,14690,18313,18315,18316,442,18318,442,18320,578],{},[40,18305,18306],{},"Blue energy fields and blades:",[40,18308,379],{},[40,18310,5487],{},[40,18312,676],{},[40,18314,348],{}," line along the very edge. For a toxic green instead, run ",[40,18317,360],{},[40,18319,6667],{},[40,18321,324],{},[11,18323,18324],{},"A faint glaze of the glow colour onto the plate immediately around the lens sells it as light rather than paint. Keep that to a couple of millimetres.",[15,18326,66],{"id":65},[34,18328,18329,18335,18341,18347,18353],{},[37,18330,18331,18334],{},[40,18332,18333],{},"Thin everything, twice as much as usual."," Smooth pale armour records every ridge of paint.",[37,18336,18337,18340],{},[40,18338,18339],{},"Do not wash the whole rig."," Shade the panel lines with a brush. An all-over wash instantly turns a polished hunting rig into a grubby one.",[37,18342,18343,18346],{},[40,18344,18345],{},"Never weather these."," No chips, no rust, no mud past the base rim. The gang's whole identity is that they arrived from the spire and did not touch anything.",[37,18348,18349,18352],{},[40,18350,18351],{},"Keep the glows small."," Three little hot points on a cool model is striking; six is a lightshow.",[37,18354,18355,18358],{},[40,18356,18357],{},"Work in sub-assemblies."," These rigs have deep recesses behind limbs and cabling - painting them assembled costs you more time than the pinning saves.",[11,18360,5926,18361,18364],{},[774,18362,822],{"href":18363},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=B8BFC7"," to swap brands or push the rig warmer towards gold.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18366},[18367,18368,18369,18370,18371,18372],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":18146,"depth":89,"text":18147},{"id":18198,"depth":89,"text":18199},{"id":10730,"depth":89,"text":10731},{"id":18282,"depth":89,"text":18283},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting Spyre Hunters for Necromunda - sleek pearlescent hunting rigs in pale chrome, a matt black bodyglove underneath, and bright lens and energy glows.","Spyre Hunters","#B8BFC7","Polished hunting rigs, matt black bodygloves and hot little glows",{},"/factions/spyre-hunters",{"title":18130,"description":18373},"factions/spyre-hunters","GNr52IxcTgrT2-yqC9MyescOF51YLWBoVhgNf2PX5dA",{"id":18383,"title":18384,"body":18385,"date":96,"description":18454,"extension":98,"faction":18455,"heroImage":18456,"hex":18457,"intro":18458,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":18459,"navigation":104,"path":18460,"seo":18461,"stem":18462,"system":1667,"__hash__":18463},"factions/factions/stormcast-eternals.md","How to Paint Stormcast Eternals",{"type":8,"value":18386,"toc":18447},[18387,18390,18392,18395,18397,18408,18411,18415,18418,18422,18425,18427],[11,18388,18389],{},"Stormcast Eternals are Age of Sigmar's flagship faction - big, heroic, gold-armoured warriors. Like Custodes in 40k, the scheme lives or dies on the gold, but the larger model size and bold forms make them satisfying and quick to get a good result on.",[15,18391,18],{"id":17},[11,18393,18394],{},"The Hammers of Sigmar are bright gold armour with deep blue cloth, silver weapons, and bone/parchment details. The gold should be warm and rich, the blue a strong contrast against it.",[15,18396,126],{"id":125},[34,18398,18399,18402,18405],{},[37,18400,18401],{},"Basecoat a bright gold over a dark or metallic undercoat.",[37,18403,18404],{},"Shade heavily with a brown/sepia wash, plus a darker wash in the deepest recesses, to build the depth that makes gold look like gold.",[37,18406,18407],{},"Edge highlight with a brighter gold, then a silver touch on the sharpest points.",[11,18409,18410],{},"A gold basecoat plus a generous wash gets a Stormcast tabletop-ready fast; the edge highlights are what lift them to display level.",[15,18412,18414],{"id":18413},"blue-cloth-and-accents","Blue cloth and accents",[11,18416,18417],{},"The royal blue tabards and cloth are the key contrast - a blue contrast or a basecoat-shade-highlight on the cloth. Silver weapons and bone scrolls round out the scheme.",[15,18419,18421],{"id":18420},"stormhost-variations","Stormhost variations",[11,18423,18424],{},"Swap the cloth and trim for other stormhosts: Celestial Vindicators (teal), Anvils of the Heldenhammer (black/bone), Astral Templars (purple/fur).",[15,18426,66],{"id":65},[34,18428,18429,18435,18441],{},[37,18430,18431,18434],{},[40,18432,18433],{},"Shade the gold deeply."," Depth is what separates gold from flat brass.",[37,18436,18437,18440],{},[40,18438,18439],{},"Strong blue contrast."," The cloth is what stops the model being a gold blob.",[37,18442,18443,18446],{},[40,18444,18445],{},"Big models reward highlights."," The large surfaces show off edge work - use it.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18448},[18449,18450,18451,18452,18453],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":125,"depth":89,"text":126},{"id":18413,"depth":89,"text":18414},{"id":18420,"depth":89,"text":18421},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Stormcast Eternals - the heroic gold armour of the Hammers of Sigmar, with blue cloth and the metallics that define Age of Sigmar's poster boys.","Stormcast Eternals","/images/factions/stormcast-eternals.webp","#c79a3b","Heroic gold armour with blue cloth, the Hammers of Sigmar look",{},"/factions/stormcast-eternals",{"title":18384,"description":18454},"factions/stormcast-eternals","KGejfM-mY71v3b-OMQQgD8A_30PefCqyK8nLMOSo2AE",{"id":18465,"title":18466,"body":18467,"date":96,"description":18538,"extension":98,"faction":18539,"heroImage":18540,"hex":18541,"intro":18542,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":18543,"navigation":104,"path":18544,"seo":18545,"stem":18546,"system":1667,"__hash__":18547},"factions/factions/sylvaneth.md","How to Paint Sylvaneth",{"type":8,"value":18468,"toc":18532},[18469,18472,18474,18477,18481,18484,18492,18496,18510,18512],[11,18470,18471],{},"Sylvaneth are walking forest spirits - all bark, branches, leaves and roots - which makes them a wonderfully organic, naturalistic army to paint. There are no hard armour panels here; everything is wood, foliage and gentle magic.",[15,18473,18],{"id":17},[11,18475,18476],{},"Pale silver-green or grey bark bodies, deeper green and autumnal (orange, red, brown) foliage, glowing wisps and seed-pods, and soft magical light. The palette can be spring-fresh or autumnal depending on your glade - both look striking.",[15,18478,18480],{"id":18479},"painting-bark-and-wood","Painting bark and wood",[11,18482,18483],{},"The bark bodies are perfect for drybrushing and washes:",[34,18485,18486,18489],{},[37,18487,18488],{},"Basecoat a mid grey-green or brown, wash to sink the grain, then drybrush up to a pale silver-green to catch every knot and ridge.",[37,18490,18491],{},"A wood-effect contrast paint over a bone undercoat is a fast route to natural-looking timber.",[15,18493,18495],{"id":18494},"foliage-and-glow","Foliage and glow",[34,18497,18498,18504],{},[37,18499,18500,18503],{},[40,18501,18502],{},"Leaves"," - vary the greens, and add autumnal reds, oranges and yellows for a richer, more natural look. Contrast paints make multicoloured foliage quick.",[37,18505,18506,18509],{},[40,18507,18508],{},"Wisps and seed-pods"," - the magical glow uses object-source lighting: a bright core (blue, green or amber) glazed softly onto the nearby wood.",[15,18511,66],{"id":65},[34,18513,18514,18520,18526],{},[37,18515,18516,18519],{},[40,18517,18518],{},"Drybrush the bark."," It is the fastest way to bring out the wood-grain texture.",[37,18521,18522,18525],{},[40,18523,18524],{},"Vary the foliage."," A single flat green looks artificial - mix in warm autumn tones.",[37,18527,18528,18531],{},[40,18529,18530],{},"Soft glow."," Keep the magical light gentle and diffuse, not a hard neon.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18533},[18534,18535,18536,18537],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":18479,"depth":89,"text":18480},{"id":18494,"depth":89,"text":18495},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Sylvaneth - the bark, wood and autumnal foliage of the forest spirits, with glowing wisps and a natural, organic finish.","Sylvaneth","/images/factions/sylvaneth.webp","#2f6b3a","Bark, wood and autumn leaves with a magical glow",{},"/factions/sylvaneth",{"title":18466,"description":18538},"factions/sylvaneth","Yq6J_LdE-axDdcXBk0MJwQ0hWK_g1zfw7HjhHhF8JwM",{"id":18549,"title":18550,"body":18551,"date":96,"description":18612,"extension":98,"faction":18613,"heroImage":18614,"hex":18615,"intro":18616,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":18617,"navigation":104,"path":18618,"seo":18619,"stem":18620,"system":108,"__hash__":18621},"factions/factions/tau.md","How to Paint T'au",{"type":8,"value":18552,"toc":18606},[18553,18556,18558,18561,18565,18568,18579,18583,18586,18588],[11,18554,18555],{},"T'au are the sci-fi army of the setting, and their painting reflects it: large, smooth battlesuit panels, clean colours, and a tidy, almost vehicle-like finish with decals and sept markings. They reward neat basecoating over heavy weathering.",[15,18557,18],{"id":17},[11,18559,18560],{},"The classic T'au Sept scheme is a warm ochre/tan armour with white and dark contrast panels, black recesses, and red or blue accents on lenses and sensors. The look is clean and high-tech - flat, even colour with sharp panel separation.",[15,18562,18564],{"id":18563},"painting-smooth-armour","Painting smooth armour",[11,18566,18567],{},"T'au battlesuits have big flat areas where brush marks and patchiness show, so:",[34,18569,18570,18573,18576],{},[37,18571,18572],{},"Thin your basecoat and do two or three even coats (an airbrush is ideal but not required).",[37,18574,18575],{},"Shade only the panel lines, not the whole panel, to keep the surfaces clean.",[37,18577,18578],{},"Highlight edges crisply - the angular suits suit sharp edge highlights.",[15,18580,18582],{"id":18581},"panels-decals-and-accents","Panels, decals and accents",[11,18584,18585],{},"Break up the ochre with white or dark grey panels and plenty of decals (sept symbols, unit markings). Glowing lenses and pulse-weapon coils in red or blue give the high-tech finish its final pop.",[15,18587,66],{"id":65},[34,18589,18590,18595,18600],{},[37,18591,18592,18594],{},[40,18593,13764],{}," T'au should look manufactured, not battle-worn - go easy on weathering.",[37,18596,18597,18599],{},[40,18598,12392],{}," Shade the recesses only so flat armour stays smooth.",[37,18601,18602,18605],{},[40,18603,18604],{},"Use decals."," They are core to the T'au look and far easier than freehand markings.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18607},[18608,18609,18610,18611],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":18563,"depth":89,"text":18564},{"id":18581,"depth":89,"text":18582},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint T'au - the clean ochre-and-white sept scheme, smooth battlesuit armour, and the panel-and-decal look that defines the army.","T'au Sept","/images/factions/tau.webp","#b5651d","Clean ochre battlesuits, smooth panels and crisp decals",{},"/factions/tau",{"title":18550,"description":18612},"factions/tau","ML1aLACSJC3GCxZVz45S1niruxAHn1NDwHclD-m5QDQ",{"id":18623,"title":18624,"body":18625,"date":96,"description":18687,"extension":98,"faction":13330,"heroImage":18688,"hex":18689,"intro":18690,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":18691,"navigation":104,"path":18692,"seo":18693,"stem":18694,"system":108,"__hash__":18695},"factions/factions/thousand-sons.md","How to Paint Thousand Sons",{"type":8,"value":18626,"toc":18681},[18627,18630,18632,18635,18639,18652,18656,18659,18661],[11,18628,18629],{},"Thousand Sons are one of the most ornate and rewarding armies to paint - a rich blue-and-gold scheme covered in intricate trim, with plenty of opportunity for glowing warpfire and magical effects.",[15,18631,18],{"id":17},[11,18633,18634],{},"Deep teal/blue armour with extensive gold trim, blue-and-gold tabards, and blue or pink warpfire on weapons and around the Rubric Marines' empty armour. The gold-to-blue ratio is high, so neat trim work pays off.",[15,18636,18638],{"id":18637},"painting-the-blue-and-gold","Painting the blue and gold",[34,18640,18641,18647],{},[37,18642,18643,18646],{},[40,18644,18645],{},"Blue"," - use the ramp above for a saturated teal-blue. A blue contrast over gold-tinted or white undercoat speeds up the basecoat.",[37,18648,18649,18651],{},[40,18650,48],{}," - this is half the model. Basecoat a bright gold, shade with a brown or sepia wash, and highlight the edges with a lighter gold or silver. Good gold trim is what makes Thousand Sons look premium.",[15,18653,18655],{"id":18654},"warpfire-and-magic","Warpfire and magic",[11,18657,18658],{},"The blue or pink flame effects use object-source lighting: bright core fading to a glaze of the same colour on nearby surfaces. A bright blue technical/contrast paint in the eyes and weapon glows ties the army's magical theme together.",[15,18660,66],{"id":65},[34,18662,18663,18669,18675],{},[37,18664,18665,18668],{},[40,18666,18667],{},"Invest in the gold."," Washed and edge-highlighted gold trim is the centrepiece - don't rush it.",[37,18670,18671,18674],{},[40,18672,18673],{},"Keep the blue rich."," A teal lean reads more \"Tzeentch sorcery\" than a plain royal blue.",[37,18676,18677,18680],{},[40,18678,18679],{},"Add a magic accent."," A consistent warpfire colour across the army looks deliberate and cohesive.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18682},[18683,18684,18685,18686],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":18637,"depth":89,"text":18638},{"id":18654,"depth":89,"text":18655},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Thousand Sons - the blue-and-gold armour, with tips for the rich teal-blue, ornate gold trim and warpfire magic effects.","/images/factions/thousand-sons.webp","#1f6f8b","Blue-and-gold armour and warpfire magic effects",{},"/factions/thousand-sons",{"title":18624,"description":18687},"factions/thousand-sons","GcbnO-Fi8ouFUNhqOg5ESa0bA4pfS36pV9gG8c-j-Hk",{"id":18697,"title":18698,"body":18699,"date":833,"description":18964,"extension":98,"faction":18965,"heroImage":510,"hex":18966,"intro":18967,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":18968,"navigation":104,"path":18969,"seo":18970,"stem":18971,"system":1284,"__hash__":18972},"factions/factions/tomb-kings-of-khemri.md","How to Paint Tomb Kings of Khemri",{"type":8,"value":18700,"toc":18956},[18701,18704,18706,18709,18712,18716,18748,18761,18774,18778,18806,18820,18834,18838,18854,18873,18877,18889,18908,18914,18916,18951],[11,18702,18703],{},"Tomb Kings are the easiest large fantasy army to get to a genuinely good standard, because almost the whole legion is one material. A skeleton is a basecoat, a wash and a drybrush from tabletop-ready, and everything that makes the army look expensive - the gold, the turquoise, the dust - lands on small areas afterwards. You are painting a horde with the workload of a warband, which is why a Tomb Kings force is such a good place to learn batch painting.",[15,18705,18],{"id":17},[11,18707,18708],{},"Warm, aged bone rather than white bone: think old ivory left in the sun, not a laboratory skeleton. Against that sit three accents. Tarnished gold on masks, collars, blades and standards. Turquoise or lapis blue on jewellery and gemstones, which is the only cool, saturated colour on the model and therefore the one your eye goes to. And pale desert dust rising off the base up the shins, tying every model to the same ground.",[11,18710,18711],{},"Keep the bone warm and the accents cool and the army reads as ancient. Get that the wrong way round and it reads as plastic.",[15,18713,18715],{"id":18714},"the-bone","The bone",[545,18717,18718,18723,18732,18737,18742],{},[37,18719,549,18720,18722],{},[40,18721,552],{},", two thin coats. It is a dull green-khaki in the pot and looks wrong until it is shaded - hold your nerve.",[37,18724,18725,18726,18728,18729,18731],{},"Shade the whole model with ",[40,18727,559],{},". For a warmer, more sun-bleached legion use ",[40,18730,563],{}," instead; it stains rather than dirties, and keeps the bone golden.",[37,18733,722,18734,18736],{},[40,18735,570],{}," across the skull, ribs and limbs, leaving the shade sitting in every joint, eye socket and rib gap.",[37,18738,7487,18739,18741],{},[40,18740,577],{}," on cheekbones, brow ridges, knuckles and the top edge of each rib.",[37,18743,18744,18745,18747],{},"Characters and standard bearers only: a final touch of ",[40,18746,584],{}," on the sharpest points.",[11,18749,18750,18751,5749,18753,6920,18755,18757,18758,18760],{},"The fast route is excellent here. Undercoat ",[40,18752,301],{},[40,18754,638],{},[40,18756,577],{},". That is a full regiment in an evening. ",[40,18759,642],{}," over the same undercoat gives a darker, sandier legion if you want them dug out of a dune rather than a tomb.",[11,18762,7492,18763,442,18765,10778,18767,442,18769,18771,18772,578],{},[40,18764,605],{},[40,18766,9725],{},[40,18768,619],{},[40,18770,625],{},", shaded with ",[40,18773,1538],{},[15,18775,18777],{"id":18776},"nehekharan-gold","Nehekharan gold",[545,18779,18780,18785,18793,18798],{},[37,18781,549,18782,18784],{},[40,18783,1409],{},", two coats over bone or one over black.",[37,18786,1790,18787,18789,18790,18792],{},[40,18788,1046],{}," rather than a brown wash. It keeps the metal warm and singing against the cool bone; ",[40,18791,559],{}," works but dirties it.",[37,18794,567,18795,18797],{},[40,18796,1414],{}," on the raised faces of masks, pectorals and blade spines.",[37,18799,1060,18800,18802,18803,18805],{},[40,18801,6973],{},", or a whisper of ",[40,18804,410],{}," on the very sharpest edge of a khopesh.",[11,18807,18808,18809,302,18811,18813,18814,18816,18817,18819],{},"Give the rank and file a cheaper metal so the kings outshine their army: ",[40,18810,691],{},[40,18812,698],{}," for skeleton warriors and chariots, with ",[40,18815,6977],{}," on the fittings. For centuries-old bronze, thin ",[40,18818,5104],{}," into the recesses. A little of that goes a very long way.",[11,18821,18822,18823,18825,18826,18828,18829,612,18831,578],{},"Vallejo equivalents: ",[40,18824,13483],{}," for the bright metal, ",[40,18827,15145],{}," for the rank and file. Army Painter Fanatic painters want ",[40,18830,12937],{},[40,18832,18833],{},"Weapon Bronze",[15,18835,18837],{"id":18836},"turquoise-and-lapis","Turquoise and lapis",[11,18839,18840,18841,666,18843,317,18845,18847,18848,18850,18851,18853],{},"Turquoise: basecoat ",[40,18842,665],{},[40,18844,8345],{},[40,18846,672],{},", and dot ",[40,18849,676],{}," where the light would catch. A single coat of ",[40,18852,680],{}," over the bone undercoat does the same job in one step on scarabs and small jewellery.",[11,18855,18856,18857,666,18859,317,18861,1906,18864,18866,18867,18869,18870,18872],{},"Lapis: basecoat ",[40,18858,379],{},[40,18860,669],{},[40,18862,18863],{},"Caledor Sky",[40,18865,9177],{}," and finish with a ",[40,18868,348],{}," dot in one corner. Stipple a few specks of ",[40,18871,1414],{}," across the stone for the pyrite flecks real lapis has - it takes ten seconds and looks like far more work than it is.",[15,18874,18876],{"id":18875},"wrappings-and-desert-basing","Wrappings and desert basing",[11,18878,18879,18880,692,18882,1845,18884,6261,18886,18888],{},"Linen wrappings should be cooler and greyer than the bone so the two separate: ",[40,18881,6376],{},[40,18883,559],{},[40,18885,584],{},[40,18887,590],{}," is the warmer alternative if you would rather the wrappings read as sandcloth.",[11,18890,18891,18892,407,18894,18896,18897,18900,18901,18903,18904,612,18906,578],{},"For bases, ",[40,18893,768],{},[40,18895,9397],{}," undercoat gives a cracked pan bed straight from the pot; ",[40,18898,18899],{},"Agrellan Badland"," is the paler version. Sand and grit work just as well - basecoat ",[40,18902,729],{},", wash, then drybrush ",[40,18905,590],{},[40,18907,577],{},[11,18909,18910,18911,18913],{},"Finish by dusting the model itself. Drybrush a little ",[40,18912,590],{}," upward from the base onto feet, shins and the bottom edge of a chariot. This is the single step that stops a Tomb Kings unit looking like models standing on a base and makes it look like a legion that walked out of the desert.",[15,18915,66],{"id":65},[34,18917,18918,18924,18933,18939,18945],{},[37,18919,18920,18923],{},[40,18921,18922],{},"Warm bone, cool accents."," The turquoise and lapis only pop because the bone is warm. Cool the bone down and the whole model goes flat.",[37,18925,18926,18929,18930,18932],{},[40,18927,18928],{},"Do not paint the bone white."," White bone reads as a Halloween skeleton, not an embalmed king. Stop at ",[40,18931,577],{}," on rank and file.",[37,18934,18935,18938],{},[40,18936,18937],{},"Ration the gold."," Every model wearing full gold means nothing stands out. Line troops get a collar and a weapon; characters get the rest.",[37,18940,18941,18944],{},[40,18942,18943],{},"Dust travels upward."," Dust on the base alone is unconvincing. Take it two-thirds of the way up the shins and fade it out.",[37,18946,18947,18950],{},[40,18948,18949],{},"Batch the regiment, not the model."," Basecoat twenty, wash twenty, drybrush twenty. The recipe has no per-model variation, so there is no reason to work one at a time.",[11,18952,7166,18953,7170],{},[774,18954,822],{"href":18955},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=bf9b30",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":18957},[18958,18959,18960,18961,18962,18963],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":18714,"depth":89,"text":18715},{"id":18776,"depth":89,"text":18777},{"id":18836,"depth":89,"text":18837},{"id":18875,"depth":89,"text":18876},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Tomb Kings of Khemri - the aged bone recipe, tarnished Nehekharan gold, turquoise and lapis jewellery, and desert basing that ties the legion together.","Tomb Kings of Khemri","#bf9b30","Aged bone, tarnished gold and desert dust",{},"/factions/tomb-kings-of-khemri",{"title":18698,"description":18964},"factions/tomb-kings-of-khemri","PojRbu0sgP4PDZIIPYhluXEov1YQWUdPTtGoNyuQG4M",{"id":18974,"title":18975,"body":18976,"date":19069,"description":19070,"extension":98,"faction":19071,"heroImage":510,"hex":19072,"intro":19073,"lastUpdated":19069,"meta":19074,"navigation":104,"path":19075,"seo":19076,"stem":19077,"system":19078,"__hash__":19079},"factions/factions/trench-crusade-black-grail.md","How to Paint the Black Grail (Trench Crusade)",{"type":8,"value":18977,"toc":19062},[18978,18981,18983,18986,18990,19013,19017,19020,19024,19030,19032,19057],[11,18979,18980],{},"The Black Grail is Trench Crusade at its most nightmarish - a plague of corrupted flesh and shambling body horror boiling out of the ground where the war is at its worst. There is barely a uniform in sight: this warband is rot, sinew, grave-soil and gore. That makes it the single most forgiving project in the game, because - as with any decay-themed force - mess is the point. Pooled washes, uneven layers and heavy-handed stippling all read as more corruption.",[15,18982,18],{"id":17},[11,18984,18985],{},"The base tone is a putrid grey-olive - dead flesh and rotten cloth blurring into one another - built from the recipe above. Over that you layer three kinds of horror: pallid, sickly skin on exposed flesh; wet crimson gore in wounds and mouths; and grave filth - dark corpse-earth caked over everything below the knee. Any metal present is scrap, and should be more rust than iron.",[15,18987,18989],{"id":18988},"painting-the-rot","Painting the rot",[545,18991,18992,18995,19003,19010],{},[37,18993,18994],{},"Basecoat everything - flesh, rags, hide - with the putrid olive ramp, keeping the tones muddled rather than neat.",[37,18996,18997,18998,19002],{},"Drench the model in washes. Brown in the recesses, a touch of green over larger flesh areas, purple or red glazes around wounds and swollen tissue. Let them pool; the ",[774,18999,19001],{"href":19000},"/guides/washes-and-shades","washes guide"," explains why that works here.",[37,19004,19005,19006,19009],{},"Drybrush the raised areas back up with pale bone-olive - see ",[774,19007,19008],{"href":1025},"drybrushing"," - so the texture of the sculpt does the shading for you.",[37,19011,19012],{},"Pick out pallid skin in a lighter sickly tone so the anatomy reads at arm's length.",[15,19014,19016],{"id":19015},"gore-and-wounds","Gore and wounds",[11,19018,19019],{},"This is where the Black Grail earns its horror. Paint wound interiors, mouths and exposed guts in deep red, shadowed to near-black at the deepest points, then gloss them - either gloss varnish or a dedicated blood technical paint. The wet shine against the dry, matt rot is the single most effective contrast on these models. Thin tendrils of gore dragged from a wound with a fine brush add motion, but a little goes a long way.",[15,19021,19023],{"id":19022},"grave-filth-and-weathering","Grave filth and weathering",[11,19025,19026,19027,19029],{},"Where other warbands are weathered, the Black Grail is buried. Stipple and drag dark corpse-earth up shins, hems and trailing flesh - do not tidy it. Follow with a lighter dried-mud drybrush at the very bottom so the filth has depth. Rusty scrap metal - blades, hooks, buckles - gets orange-brown stippled over dark gunmetal with almost no clean metal left showing. Base the warband on churned grave-dirt with pooled water effects if you like; the ",[774,19028,777],{"href":776}," covers muddy ground and water.",[15,19031,66],{"id":65},[34,19033,19034,19039,19045,19051],{},[37,19035,19036,19038],{},[40,19037,6163],{}," On most armies pooling is a mistake; here it is texture. Lean into it.",[37,19040,19041,19044],{},[40,19042,19043],{},"Matt rot, gloss gore."," Keep the body dead and dry so the wet points of red genuinely shock.",[37,19046,19047,19050],{},[40,19048,19049],{},"Vary the flesh."," Shift the skin tones between models - grey, green, jaundiced - so the horde looks like many corpses, not one repeated one.",[37,19052,19053,19056],{},[40,19054,19055],{},"Stop before you polish."," If you find yourself neatening an edge, put the brush down. The Black Grail is the rare scheme that careful technique can actually make worse.",[11,19058,7166,19059,7170],{},[774,19060,822],{"href":19061},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=6b6844",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19063},[19064,19065,19066,19067,19068],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":18988,"depth":89,"text":18989},{"id":19015,"depth":89,"text":19016},{"id":19022,"depth":89,"text":19023},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"2026-07-04","A guide to painting the Black Grail for Trench Crusade - putrid olive flesh, rot, gore and grave filth, where every pooled wash and stipple of mud makes the model better.","The Black Grail","#6b6844","Putrid rot, grave filth and wet gore - the most forgiving warband to paint",{},"/factions/trench-crusade-black-grail",{"title":18975,"description":19070},"factions/trench-crusade-black-grail","trench-crusade","FkTWImzLuWr9Xx2qX7s8Crenu-qsIEmiL9eS19CrAyc",{"id":19081,"title":19082,"body":19083,"date":19069,"description":19182,"extension":98,"faction":19183,"heroImage":510,"hex":19184,"intro":19185,"lastUpdated":19069,"meta":19186,"navigation":104,"path":19187,"seo":19188,"stem":19189,"system":19078,"__hash__":19190},"factions/factions/trench-crusade-court-of-the-seven-headed-serpent.md","How to Paint the Court of the Seven-Headed Serpent (Trench Crusade)",{"type":8,"value":19084,"toc":19174},[19085,19088,19090,19093,19097,19114,19118,19121,19125,19128,19132,19141,19143,19169],[11,19086,19087],{},"The Court of the Seven-Headed Serpent is the infernal aristocracy of Trench Crusade - the war's true beneficiaries, arrayed in wealth that no honest soldier could ever touch. The scheme that sells them is a deliberate contradiction: deep, battle-worn crimson on armour and cloth, set against ornate gold that stays bright and immaculate no matter how filthy the battlefield gets. Where New Antioch's white is faith and the Heretic Legion's brass is corrosion, the Court's gold is temptation - and it should gleam.",[15,19089,18],{"id":17},[11,19091,19092],{},"The crimson is the body of the scheme, built from the recipe above - a dark, slightly cool red shaded towards black rather than orange. The gold is the counterpoint: serpent icons, mask work, filigree and jewellery painted as cleanly as you can manage. The final ingredient is gore - glossy, fresh red at blades and mouths - which bridges the two by being both richer than the armour and wetter than the gold.",[15,19094,19096],{"id":19095},"painting-the-crimson","Painting the crimson",[545,19098,19099,19105,19108,19111],{},[37,19100,19101,19102,19104],{},"Basecoat armour and cloth with the deep crimson and shade generously with a black-brown wash - the ",[774,19103,19001],{"href":19000}," covers getting an even result on large panels.",[37,19106,19107],{},"Re-layer panels and raised cloth with the base crimson, leaving the shade in every recess.",[37,19109,19110],{},"Highlight edges with a red lightened towards a dusty rose - avoid adding orange, which pushes the scheme towards a very different martial red.",[37,19112,19113],{},"A crimson glaze over the finished area ties the layers together and adds richness.",[15,19115,19117],{"id":19116},"the-idolatrous-gold","The idolatrous gold",[11,19119,19120],{},"Give the gold the care you would normally spend on a display piece. Basecoat a warm mid-gold, wash only the recesses with brown (keep the flats clean), then build highlights up to a pale gold and finally a dot of near-white at the brightest points. The difference between the Court and every other warband is that this metal is polished - no verdigris, no rust, no dust. If you paint one thing slowly on each model, make it the serpent icon.",[15,19122,19124],{"id":19123},"gore","Gore",[11,19126,19127],{},"Wounds, blades and offering bowls take a deep glossy red - dark red shadowed to black, then gloss varnish or a blood technical paint over the top. Against the matt crimson armour the wet shine reads immediately, and against the gold it reads as sacrilege, which is exactly right.",[15,19129,19131],{"id":19130},"weathering-the-servants-not-the-masters","Weathering the servants, not the masters",[11,19133,19134,19135,19137,19138,19140],{},"Trench Crusade rewards filth, and the Court still walks through the same mud as everyone else - but weather selectively. Boots, greaves, cloak hems and the rank-and-file take dried-earth drybrushing and stippled mud (see ",[774,19136,19008],{"href":1025},"), while leaders stay eerily clean above the ankle. Chips and scratches in the crimson - picked out in dark brown with a light lower edge - show these are fighting elites, not parade pieces. Ground the warband with dark, churned bases from the ",[774,19139,777],{"href":776},"; a muted base makes both the crimson and the gold sing.",[15,19142,66],{"id":65},[34,19144,19145,19151,19157,19163],{},[37,19146,19147,19150],{},[40,19148,19149],{},"Cool the red, warm the gold."," That temperature gap is what makes the two-colour scheme feel rich rather than gaudy.",[37,19152,19153,19156],{},[40,19154,19155],{},"Clean gold is the concept."," If the gold ends up as weathered as the armour, the Court reads as just another rusty warband.",[37,19158,19159,19162],{},[40,19160,19161],{},"Use black-brown, not pure black, to shade the crimson."," It keeps the shadows organic.",[37,19164,19165,19168],{},[40,19166,19167],{},"One bright focal point per model."," A gleaming mask or icon draws the eye; three compete with each other.",[11,19170,7166,19171,7170],{},[774,19172,822],{"href":19173},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=7a1f2b",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19175},[19176,19177,19178,19179,19180,19181],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":19095,"depth":89,"text":19096},{"id":19116,"depth":89,"text":19117},{"id":19123,"depth":89,"text":19124},{"id":19130,"depth":89,"text":19131},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting the Court of the Seven-Headed Serpent for Trench Crusade - battle-worn crimson set against immaculate, idolatrous gold, with gore where the two meet.","Court of the Seven-Headed Serpent","#7a1f2b","Battle-worn crimson against immaculate idolatrous gold",{},"/factions/trench-crusade-court-of-the-seven-headed-serpent",{"title":19082,"description":19182},"factions/trench-crusade-court-of-the-seven-headed-serpent","zFqEL_44wNnbGabGaB0zUk5ELa1rgnpvzseYpcyIdmo",{"id":19192,"title":19193,"body":19194,"date":19069,"description":19302,"extension":98,"faction":19303,"heroImage":510,"hex":19304,"intro":19305,"lastUpdated":19069,"meta":19306,"navigation":104,"path":19307,"seo":19308,"stem":19309,"system":19078,"__hash__":19310},"factions/factions/trench-crusade-heretic-legion.md","How to Paint the Heretic Legion (Trench Crusade)",{"type":8,"value":19195,"toc":19295},[19196,19199,19201,19204,19208,19226,19230,19249,19253,19262,19264,19290],[11,19197,19198],{},"Trench Crusade is a grimdark alternate-history skirmish game set in an endless war of faith fought from the trenches, and the Heretic Legion are its damned infantry - soldiers who have given themselves over to the enemy of mankind. On the table they read as a mass of scorched black and grey-brown, broken up by corroded metal, tarnished brass icons and the occasional wet flash of gore. If you enjoy painting mud, rust and misery, this is the warband for you.",[15,19200,18],{"id":17},[11,19202,19203],{},"The core of the scheme is a charcoal near-black - not a pure black, but a warm, ashen dark that lets the weathering read against it. Everything on top of that base should look neglected: iron gone orange at the edges, brass shaded to almost nothing, cloth faded and stained. The recipe above gives you the armour ramp; the character comes from the layers of decay you add afterwards.",[15,19205,19207],{"id":19206},"painting-the-uniforms-and-armour","Painting the uniforms and armour",[545,19209,19210,19213,19220,19223],{},[37,19211,19212],{},"Basecoat the cloth and plates with the dark charcoal ramp, keeping highlights restrained - a cold grey edge here and there is enough.",[37,19214,19215,19216,19219],{},"Wash the whole model with a dark brown or black shade to pull the recesses together. Read our ",[774,19217,19218],{"href":19000},"washes and shades guide"," if this step is new to you.",[37,19221,19222],{},"Pick out leather straps, gas-mask hoses and webbing in dark browns so the model does not become one flat silhouette.",[37,19224,19225],{},"Fade the cloth by drybrushing a lighter grey-brown over raised folds - these uniforms have been in the line for years.",[15,19227,19229],{"id":19228},"rust-brass-and-gore","Rust, brass and gore",[34,19231,19232,19237,19243],{},[37,19233,19234,19236],{},[40,19235,6134],{}," stipple orange-brown around rivets, blade edges and the lower halves of armour plates. Vary the tone between orange, brown and dark red so it reads as real decay rather than a flat colour.",[37,19238,19239,19242],{},[40,19240,19241],{},"Heretic brass:"," icons, mask fittings and trench-club furniture in a tarnished brass - basecoat a dull gold-brown, wash heavily with brown or black, and only glint the very highest edges. Never let it look polished.",[37,19244,19245,19248],{},[40,19246,19247],{},"Gore:"," a glossy deep red on blades, wounds and mouths. A dedicated blood technical paint or gloss varnish over dark red gives the wet-against-matt contrast that makes the whole model feel grim.",[15,19250,19252],{"id":19251},"weathering-is-the-point","Weathering is the point",[11,19254,19255,19256,19258,19259,19261],{},"Trench Crusade models reward filth more than any clean technique. Drag thinned earth-brown up from the boots and leg wraps, stipple mud onto shins and coat hems, and streak rust downward from chips with a fine brush. ",[774,19257,1026],{"href":1025}," is your best friend here - a dusty drybrush over the lower third of the model ties it into the base. Speaking of which, a churned-earth base with wire, splintered wood or standing water sells the setting; see ",[774,19260,14341],{"href":776}," for the techniques.",[15,19263,66],{"id":65},[34,19265,19266,19272,19278,19284],{},[37,19267,19268,19271],{},[40,19269,19270],{},"Warm the black."," Pure black with white highlights looks clean and modern; a brown-black shaded and dusted with earth tones looks like the Great War gone wrong.",[37,19273,19274,19277],{},[40,19275,19276],{},"Keep metal dark."," Bright silver edges break the mood - a dark gunmetal with rust does the work.",[37,19279,19280,19283],{},[40,19281,19282],{},"Gloss the gore only."," One or two wet, glossy points of red against an otherwise matt model is far more effective than blood everywhere.",[37,19285,19286,19289],{},[40,19287,19288],{},"Batch the grunts."," The rank-and-file are quick with washes and drybrushing - save the careful work for your leaders.",[11,19291,7166,19292,7170],{},[774,19293,822],{"href":19294},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=3a3230",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19296},[19297,19298,19299,19300,19301],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":19206,"depth":89,"text":19207},{"id":19228,"depth":89,"text":19229},{"id":19251,"depth":89,"text":19252},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting the Heretic Legion for Trench Crusade - scorched near-black uniforms, rust, tarnished brass and gore, built with washes and heavy weathering.","Heretic Legion","#3a3230","Scorched black cloth, rusted iron and tarnished brass, drowned in filth",{},"/factions/trench-crusade-heretic-legion",{"title":19193,"description":19302},"factions/trench-crusade-heretic-legion","oZHRzF78NwNoQPQ3hWG4k-sV_6Edzx7i789f2a8S9MI",{"id":19312,"title":19313,"body":19314,"date":19069,"description":19410,"extension":98,"faction":19411,"heroImage":510,"hex":19412,"intro":19413,"lastUpdated":19069,"meta":19414,"navigation":104,"path":19415,"seo":19416,"stem":19417,"system":19078,"__hash__":19418},"factions/factions/trench-crusade-iron-sultanate.md","How to Paint the Iron Sultanate (Trench Crusade)",{"type":8,"value":19315,"toc":19402},[19316,19319,19321,19324,19326,19344,19348,19351,19353,19356,19360,19369,19371,19397],[11,19317,19318],{},"The Iron Sultanate is Trench Crusade's great walled power of the east - a civilisation that has sealed itself against the infernal tide and sends out disciplined, superbly equipped warriors to hold the frontier. On the table they are the colour relief in a game of mud: deep turquoise armour, warm gold ward script and layered white cloth. The trick is keeping that richness believable in a WW1 hellscape - clean, but not pristine.",[15,19320,18],{"id":17},[11,19322,19323],{},"Three elements carry the scheme. The turquoise armour is the identity colour - the recipe above gives you the ramp for it. The gold is not bulk trim but calligraphy: fine protective script, seals and inlay that catch the light against the deep green-blue. And the cloth - robes, wraps and sashes - is a warm off-white that stays lighter and cleaner than anything else on the battlefield. Together they read as faith expressed through craftsmanship rather than filth.",[15,19325,17936],{"id":17935},[545,19327,19328,19335,19338,19341],{},[37,19329,19330,19331,19334],{},"Basecoat the plates with the deep turquoise and shade the recesses with a dark green or blue-black wash - see ",[774,19332,19333],{"href":19000},"washes and shades"," for the technique.",[37,19336,19337],{},"Re-layer the flat panels with the base turquoise, leaving the shade in the recesses.",[37,19339,19340],{},"Edge highlight with a lightened turquoise, pushing towards a pale aqua only on the sharpest corners.",[37,19342,19343],{},"A final thin glaze of the base colour will smooth any chalky highlights and deepen the finish.",[15,19345,19347],{"id":19346},"ward-script-and-gold","Ward script and gold",[11,19349,19350],{},"The gold work is fine-detail brushwork, so thin the paint and use the tip of a small brush. You do not need legible calligraphy - rows of small dashes, dots and hooked strokes at a consistent size read as script from tabletop distance. Place it along armour borders, helmet rims and weapon flats. Basecoat a mid gold, wash with brown to settle it, then touch the highest points with a pale gold. If freehand is not your thing, a single gold seal or medallion per model still sells the theme.",[15,19352,13499],{"id":13498},[11,19354,19355],{},"Basecoat the robes a warm bone-white, shade the folds with a thinned sepia wash, then layer back up towards off-white on the raised cloth. Keep the deepest folds warm brown rather than grey - it makes the cloth feel like linen rather than plastic. The Sultanate's cloth should be the cleanest thing in your collection, so weather it only at the hems.",[15,19357,19359],{"id":19358},"weathering-with-restraint","Weathering, with restraint",[11,19361,19362,19363,19365,19366,19368],{},"Trench Crusade rewards filth, and even the Sultanate walks through mud. The difference is where you put it: dust and dried earth on boots, greaves and the lower hand-span of robes, and nothing above the knee. A light drybrush of dusty buff over the lower third - see the ",[774,19364,12255],{"href":1025}," - plus a properly built trench base from the ",[774,19367,777],{"href":776}," grounds the model without ruining the discipline of the scheme. Skip the rust on their weapons; these blades are maintained.",[15,19370,66],{"id":65},[34,19372,19373,19379,19385,19391],{},[37,19374,19375,19378],{},[40,19376,19377],{},"Deep, not bright."," The turquoise should sit closer to the dark preset tone than to a swimming-pool blue - shade it hard and highlight sparingly.",[37,19380,19381,19384],{},[40,19382,19383],{},"Script at a constant scale."," Wobbly size is what makes freehand look like freehand; small, even marks read as writing.",[37,19386,19387,19390],{},[40,19388,19389],{},"Warm whites."," Sepia-shaded off-white against cool turquoise is the engine of this scheme.",[37,19392,19393,19396],{},[40,19394,19395],{},"Weather low, never high."," Mud to the knee, clean above it - the contrast with the rest of the battlefield is the point.",[11,19398,7166,19399,7170],{},[774,19400,822],{"href":19401},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=2e7d74",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19403},[19404,19405,19406,19407,19408,19409],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":17935,"depth":89,"text":17936},{"id":19346,"depth":89,"text":19347},{"id":13498,"depth":89,"text":13499},{"id":19358,"depth":89,"text":19359},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting the Iron Sultanate for Trench Crusade - deep turquoise armour, gold ward script and layered white cloth, kept cleaner than the battlefield around it.","Iron Sultanate","#2e7d74","Turquoise armour, gold calligraphy and disciplined white cloth",{},"/factions/trench-crusade-iron-sultanate",{"title":19313,"description":19410},"factions/trench-crusade-iron-sultanate","1CeRJwGY6hZtJaZy2ag2g6M_GjKrVr1M8YOzZ16zhYY",{"id":19420,"title":19421,"body":19422,"date":19069,"description":19511,"extension":98,"faction":19512,"heroImage":510,"hex":19513,"intro":19514,"lastUpdated":19069,"meta":19515,"navigation":104,"path":19516,"seo":19517,"stem":19518,"system":19078,"__hash__":19519},"factions/factions/trench-crusade-new-antioch.md","How to Paint New Antioch (Trench Crusade)",{"type":8,"value":19423,"toc":19504},[19424,19427,19429,19432,19436,19453,19457,19460,19462,19471,19473,19499],[11,19425,19426],{},"New Antioch stands for the faithful side of Trench Crusade's endless war - massed regiments of soldiers holding the line against hell itself. Visually they are the most \"historical\" warband in the game: khaki and olive drab, steel helmets, webbing and puttees, with their faith worn as stark off-white crosses and field markings. That makes them a superb first Trench Crusade project, because the core scheme is essentially a WW1 uniform done well, then weathered hard.",[15,19428,18],{"id":17},[11,19430,19431],{},"The base colour is a muted khaki drab - the recipe above builds the ramp for it. Against that you want three things: dark leather and webbing to give structure, cool gunmetal for weapons and helmets, and the heraldry - off-white crosses and unit markings that identify the faithful at a glance. The heraldry is the focal point, so it earns the most careful brushwork on the model.",[15,19433,19435],{"id":19434},"painting-the-uniforms","Painting the uniforms",[545,19437,19438,19444,19447,19450],{},[37,19439,19440,19441,19443],{},"Basecoat the cloth khaki and shade it with a brown wash - ",[774,19442,19333],{"href":19000}," do most of the work on folds and creases.",[37,19445,19446],{},"Layer the raised folds back up with the base khaki, then a lightened khaki on the top edges. Keep it desaturated; parade-ground brightness is wrong here.",[37,19448,19449],{},"Paint webbing, pouches and boots in dark earth browns, and helmets in either drab or dark gunmetal.",[37,19451,19452],{},"Keep faces simple - flat flesh, a wash, one highlight. The mud will do the rest of the character work.",[15,19454,19456],{"id":19455},"the-faith-heraldry","The faith heraldry",[11,19458,19459],{},"Paint crosses and field markings in a warm off-white rather than pure white - basecoat a pale bone-grey, then highlight towards white only at the centre. Freehand a cross with two strokes of a fine brush, tidy the edges with the surrounding khaki, and then - crucially - weather it back. A thin earth-tone glaze over the lower half of a cross, or a few chips picked out in the uniform colour, stops the marking floating on top of the model. Faith endures; paintwork does not.",[15,19461,12375],{"id":12759},[11,19463,19464,19465,19467,19468,19470],{},"New Antioch should look like it has been in the line for months. Work up from the base: drybrush dusty earth over boots and puttees, stipple darker mud on shins and coat hems, and drag thinned brown streaks down from pouches and buckles. A little rust - orange-brown stippled at rivets and around the edges of helmets and shovels - finishes the metal. ",[774,19466,1026],{"href":1025}," covers the fast way to do most of this, and a churned-mud base from the ",[774,19469,777],{"href":776}," ties the warband together.",[15,19472,66],{"id":65},[34,19474,19475,19481,19487,19493],{},[37,19476,19477,19480],{},[40,19478,19479],{},"Vary the khaki."," Mix a touch of green or brown into the basecoat between models - a slightly mismatched warband reads as real soldiers, not toy soldiers.",[37,19482,19483,19486],{},[40,19484,19485],{},"Off-white, not white."," Pure white heraldry glows unnaturally against drab; bone-white weathered back looks earned.",[37,19488,19489,19492],{},[40,19490,19491],{},"Cool metal, warm cloth."," The contrast between grey steel and warm khaki is what keeps the muted scheme from going muddy.",[37,19494,19495,19498],{},[40,19496,19497],{},"Save one clean thing."," A banner, a medic's markings or an officer's sash kept relatively clean gives the eye a rest point among the filth.",[11,19500,7166,19501,7170],{},[774,19502,822],{"href":19503},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=7a6f52",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19505},[19506,19507,19508,19509,19510],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":19434,"depth":89,"text":19435},{"id":19455,"depth":89,"text":19456},{"id":12759,"depth":89,"text":12375},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting New Antioch for Trench Crusade - khaki drab uniforms, off-white faith heraldry and battlefield weathering for the defenders of the faithful.","New Antioch","#7a6f52","Khaki drab, white crosses and honest Great War grime",{},"/factions/trench-crusade-new-antioch",{"title":19421,"description":19511},"factions/trench-crusade-new-antioch","MP5FSv_rcw7VNPoVv6u_4N5rD0yIsgNKCVDngQsAbk0",{"id":19521,"title":19522,"body":19523,"date":19069,"description":19620,"extension":98,"faction":19621,"heroImage":510,"hex":19622,"intro":19623,"lastUpdated":19069,"meta":19624,"navigation":104,"path":19625,"seo":19626,"stem":19627,"system":19078,"__hash__":19628},"factions/factions/trench-crusade-trench-pilgrims.md","How to Paint Trench Pilgrims (Trench Crusade)",{"type":8,"value":19524,"toc":19612},[19525,19528,19530,19533,19537,19554,19558,19561,19565,19568,19570,19579,19581,19607],[11,19526,19527],{},"Trench Pilgrims are the fanatic faithful of Trench Crusade - ragged processions of zealots, flagellants and war-prophets who walk into no-man's-land carrying shrines, relics and censers. Their look is built almost entirely from poverty: bone and parchment-coloured rags, cracked wood, rope, and the marks of mortification - blood, bandages and dribbled votive wax. It is a wonderfully characterful warband to paint, and most of it is done with washes and drybrushing.",[15,19529,18],{"id":17},[11,19531,19532],{},"The base is a pale bone-tan - robes, rags and wraps built from the recipe above. Because so much of each model is one colour family, the scheme lives on variation: shift each garment a little warmer, greyer or dirtier than its neighbour so the layers of cloth separate. The accents are dry brown wood and rope, wet crimson blood, and off-white candlewax with a gloss touch at the drips.",[15,19534,19536],{"id":19535},"painting-the-rags","Painting the rags",[545,19538,19539,19542,19548,19551],{},[37,19540,19541],{},"Basecoat all the cloth in the bone-tan, varying the mix slightly between garments.",[37,19543,19544,19545,19547],{},"Wash generously with a sepia or brown shade - on layered rags this one step does most of the modelling. The ",[774,19546,19001],{"href":19000}," covers keeping it even.",[37,19549,19550],{},"Drybrush or layer back up towards pale bone on the raised folds, leaving the recesses warm and dirty.",[37,19552,19553],{},"Glaze a few garments with thinned grey or green-brown so the procession reads as gathered rabble rather than a uniformed unit.",[15,19555,19557],{"id":19556},"relics-wood-and-rope","Relics, wood and rope",[11,19559,19560],{},"Crosses, staves, shrine frames and cart wheels take dry, cracked browns - basecoat a mid brown, wash dark, then drybrush up to a pale grey-brown so the grain and edges catch. Rope and bindings go a lighter straw-brown. Keep all of it matt and tired; nothing the Pilgrims carry is new. Iron fittings - chains, censers, nails - should be dark gunmetal with rust stippled over, more relic than weapon.",[15,19562,19564],{"id":19563},"blood-and-candlewax","Blood and candlewax",[11,19566,19567],{},"The Pilgrims' devotion is written on their bodies. Bandages get a thin red wash seeping from their centre; scourged backs and stigmata take small, deliberate touches of deep glossy red - a blood technical paint or gloss varnish over dark red. Then the detail that makes the warband: votive candles and dribbled wax on shrines, helmets and pauldrons. Paint the wax in warm off-white, shade lightly with sepia, highlight the drips, and add a spot of gloss at each drip so it looks freshly melted. An orange-yellow glow around lit wicks - a simple layered dot of orange, yellow, white - finishes the shrine pieces.",[15,19569,12375],{"id":12759},[11,19571,19572,19573,19575,19576,19578],{},"These people have walked to the front line. Work dust and dried mud up from the hems - a dusty earth drybrush over the lower third of every robe (see ",[774,19574,19008],{"href":1025},"), heavier stippled mud on bare feet and boots, and grime dragged from knees and elbows. The bone cloth takes weathering beautifully because every stain shows. Base them on churned earth and duckboards using the ",[774,19577,777],{"href":776},", and let a few models trail bandages or rope onto the base to connect the procession to the ground.",[15,19580,66],{"id":65},[34,19582,19583,19589,19595,19601],{},[37,19584,19585,19588],{},[40,19586,19587],{},"Vary the bone."," Ten identical bone-white robes look like a choir; ten slightly different dirty ones look like pilgrims.",[37,19590,19591,19594],{},[40,19592,19593],{},"Blood with intent."," Small, placed marks of mortification are unsettling; random splatter is just messy.",[37,19596,19597,19600],{},[40,19598,19599],{},"Gloss the wax drips."," That tiny highlight is what makes candles read as wax rather than icicles.",[37,19602,19603,19606],{},[40,19604,19605],{},"Keep metal scarce."," The less iron gleams on these models, the more their poverty and faith carry the scheme.",[11,19608,7166,19609,7170],{},[774,19610,822],{"href":19611},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=b3a785",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19613},[19614,19615,19616,19617,19618,19619],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":19535,"depth":89,"text":19536},{"id":19556,"depth":89,"text":19557},{"id":19563,"depth":89,"text":19564},{"id":12759,"depth":89,"text":12375},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting Trench Pilgrims for Trench Crusade - bone-coloured rags, blood, relic wood and candlewax, weathered into a procession of fanatic faith.","Trench Pilgrims","#b3a785","Bone rags, blood, relic wood and dribbled candlewax",{},"/factions/trench-crusade-trench-pilgrims",{"title":19522,"description":19620},"factions/trench-crusade-trench-pilgrims","KCSJqIOTruhuPbOb0NH2nXVIoMqFqwWAGIgTvXHj9M0",{"id":19630,"title":19631,"body":19632,"date":96,"description":19714,"extension":98,"faction":19715,"heroImage":19716,"hex":19717,"intro":19718,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":19719,"navigation":104,"path":19720,"seo":19721,"stem":19722,"system":108,"__hash__":19723},"factions/factions/tyranids.md","How to Paint Tyranids",{"type":8,"value":19633,"toc":19708},[19634,19637,19639,19654,19658,19677,19680,19684,19687,19689],[11,19635,19636],{},"Tyranids are a horde army, so the goal is a striking, cohesive scheme you can apply quickly across dozens of models. The classic split is a hard carapace colour against a contrasting softer skin/flesh, and contrast paints make both fast.",[15,19638,18],{"id":17},[11,19640,19641,19642,19645,19646,19649,19650,19653],{},"A hive fleet scheme is built from two or three colours: a ",[40,19643,19644],{},"carapace"," (the hard plates), a ",[40,19647,19648],{},"skin/flesh"," (the muscle and limbs), and ",[40,19651,19652],{},"claws/teeth"," (bone). Hive Fleet Leviathan, for example, pairs a purple carapace with pale bone skin. Pick a carapace and a complementary skin and you have an instantly recognisable fleet.",[15,19655,19657],{"id":19656},"painting-a-horde-fast","Painting a horde fast",[34,19659,19660,19666,19671],{},[37,19661,19662,19665],{},[40,19663,19664],{},"Carapace"," - the recipe above gives the ramp; a contrast paint over the right undercoat does it in one pass on small models.",[37,19667,19668,19670],{},[40,19669,6052],{}," - a flesh or bone contrast over a light undercoat, shaded automatically.",[37,19672,19673,19676],{},[40,19674,19675],{},"Claws and teeth"," - bone basecoat, brown wash, light drybrush.",[11,19678,19679],{},"A zenithal undercoat (dark up to light) under contrast paints does most of the shading for you - ideal for getting a hundred gaunts painted.",[15,19681,19683],{"id":19682},"hive-fleet-variations","Hive fleet variations",[11,19685,19686],{},"Swap the two main colours to invent your own fleet, or follow the classics: Leviathan (purple/bone), Hive Fleet Kraken (purple/cream), Behemoth (red/bone), Gorgon (green/purple).",[15,19688,66],{"id":65},[34,19690,19691,19697,19702],{},[37,19692,19693,19696],{},[40,19694,19695],{},"Two colours, applied well, beats five rushed ones."," Keep the scheme simple for a horde.",[37,19698,19699,19701],{},[40,19700,8284],{}," They are made for organic, textured models like these.",[37,19703,19704,19707],{},[40,19705,19706],{},"Batch ruthlessly."," Do every model's carapace, then every model's skin - never one model at a time.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19709},[19710,19711,19712,19713],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":19656,"depth":89,"text":19657},{"id":19682,"depth":89,"text":19683},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Tyranids fast - the carapace-and-skin approach used by hive fleets like Leviathan, with quick contrast methods for painting a horde.","Tyranids","/images/factions/tyranids.webp","#6a4b8a","Carapace, skin and chitin done fast for a whole hive fleet",{},"/factions/tyranids",{"title":19631,"description":19714},"factions/tyranids","Rh7QILW3Nl2Z_j2VSmtFy9iqj2-RWHSguSEheqIwe9k",{"id":19725,"title":17977,"body":19726,"date":507,"description":19932,"extension":98,"faction":6325,"heroImage":510,"hex":19933,"intro":19934,"lastUpdated":507,"meta":19935,"navigation":104,"path":17976,"seo":19936,"stem":19937,"system":108,"__hash__":19938},"factions/factions/ultramarines.md",{"type":8,"value":19727,"toc":19925},[19728,19731,19734,19736,19739,19743,19749,19775,19786,19790,19800,19808,19825,19837,19841,19844,19897,19899],[11,19729,19730],{},"Ultramarines are the reference scheme for the whole hobby, which cuts both ways. Everyone knows what they should look like, so a rushed one is obvious - but the recipe is also the most documented in miniature painting, and it is genuinely simple. Blue armour, gold trim, white markings, red lenses. Four decisions, then repeat.",[11,19732,19733],{},"They are a middling-speed army. Faster than any chapter with freehand heraldry, slower than a black chapter, and very well suited to batch painting because every model is identical.",[15,19735,18],{"id":17},[11,19737,19738],{},"Deep, slightly warm blue power armour with a hard edge highlight, gold trim on characters and sergeants, white or bone shoulder markings, and red lenses. The armour should look clean - Ultramarines are a well-supplied chapter and heavy weathering fights the identity.",[15,19740,19742],{"id":19741},"the-blue-armour","The blue armour",[11,19744,19745,19746,19748],{},"Undercoat black or ",[40,19747,5467],{}," spray if you have it.",[545,19750,19751,19756,19763,19768],{},[37,19752,549,19753,19755],{},[40,19754,5467],{},", two thin coats. It covers well but the first coat will look patchy - trust the second.",[37,19757,1502,19758,1047,19760,19762],{},[40,19759,356],{},[40,19761,669],{}," if you want the shadows to stay blue rather than going grey.",[37,19764,567,19765,19767],{},[40,19766,5487],{}," across the raised armour, leaving the base colour in the joins.",[37,19769,7487,19770,19772,19773,13973],{},[40,19771,2211],{}," along the top edges of each plate. On characters, add a final thin catch of ",[40,19774,9166],{},[11,19776,19777,19778,10504,19780,19782,19783,19785],{},"The fast route, and it is a good one: undercoat ",[40,19779,305],{},[40,19781,6919],{}," contrast. Edge it with ",[40,19784,5487],{}," and you have a tabletop-ready marine in two steps. For a whole company this saves days.",[15,19787,19789],{"id":19788},"gold-white-and-lenses","Gold, white and lenses",[11,19791,19792,19793,666,19795,317,19797,19799],{},"Trim, aquilas and purity seal fittings: ",[40,19794,1409],{},[40,19796,559],{},[40,19798,1414],{},". Sergeants and characters get considerably more of it than line marines.",[11,19801,19802,19803,407,19805,19807],{},"Shoulder markings and squad numbers in ",[40,19804,348],{},[40,19806,305],{}," basecoat. Transfers work well on Ultramarines because the pauldrons are flat - gloss the panel first, apply the transfer, then matt varnish.",[11,19809,6299,19810,6302,19812,6305,19814,18298,19816,19818,19819,1387,19821,1535,19823,9220],{},[40,19811,375],{},[40,19813,385],{},[40,19815,1370],{},[40,19817,348],{}," dot at the top corner, then gloss. Bolters in ",[40,19820,1144],{},[40,19822,356],{},[40,19824,410],{},[11,19826,19827,19828,376,19830,376,19832,376,19834,19836],{},"Parchment and seals in ",[40,19829,552],{},[40,19831,559],{},[40,19833,570],{},[40,19835,577],{}," - the same recipe as every other Imperial force, and worth learning once.",[15,19838,19840],{"id":19839},"successor-chapters","Successor chapters",[11,19842,19843],{},"The Ultramarines have more successors than anyone, and most reuse the recipe with one substitution:",[34,19845,19846,19856,19866,19877,19887],{},[37,19847,19848,438,19851,612,19853,19855],{},[40,19849,19850],{},"Novamarines",[40,19852,371],{},[40,19854,348],{}," halved armour with blue detailing.",[37,19857,19858,438,19861,442,19863,19865],{},[40,19859,19860],{},"Genesis Chapter",[40,19862,453],{},[40,19864,456],{}," over a bone undercoat.",[37,19867,19868,438,19871,442,19873,19876],{},[40,19869,19870],{},"Aurora Chapter",[40,19872,4531],{},[40,19874,19875],{},"Elysian Green",", with white markings.",[37,19878,19879,438,19882,1535,19884,19886],{},[40,19880,19881],{},"Praetors of Orpheus",[40,19883,379],{},[40,19885,441],{}," shoulders.",[37,19888,19889,438,19892,442,19894,19896],{},[40,19890,19891],{},"Doom Eagles",[40,19893,8119],{},[40,19895,1019],{},", one of the fastest marine schemes going.",[15,19898,66],{"id":65},[34,19900,19901,19907,19913,19919],{},[37,19902,19903,19906],{},[40,19904,19905],{},"Two thin coats of blue, not one thick one."," Macragge Blue is opaque enough that people rush it and end up with brush marks in the recesses.",[37,19908,19909,19912],{},[40,19910,19911],{},"Keep the shadows blue."," A black wash everywhere makes the armour look grey; use it only in the deepest recesses.",[37,19914,19915,19918],{},[40,19916,19917],{},"Do not weather them heavily."," A little boot dust is plenty.",[37,19920,19921,19924],{},[40,19922,19923],{},"Batch in stages of ten."," Basecoat ten, shade ten, layer ten. The scheme has no per-model variation, so there is no reason to work one at a time.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":19926},[19927,19928,19929,19930,19931],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":19741,"depth":89,"text":19742},{"id":19788,"depth":89,"text":19789},{"id":19839,"depth":89,"text":19840},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Ultramarines - the classic blue armour recipe from basecoat to edge highlight, gold trim, white markings, and successor chapter schemes for Novamarines and Genesis Chapter.","#0d4d9e","The blue everyone knows, done cleanly and quickly",{},{"title":17977,"description":19932},"factions/ultramarines","zaqBw3404p3VVRPWBQ7jcOiHXlJ3JAlNpGkJEdXl81Y",{"id":19940,"title":19941,"body":19942,"date":833,"description":20249,"extension":98,"faction":20250,"heroImage":510,"hex":20251,"intro":20252,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":20253,"navigation":104,"path":20254,"seo":20255,"stem":20256,"system":1284,"__hash__":20257},"factions/factions/warriors-of-chaos.md","How to Paint Warriors of Chaos",{"type":8,"value":19943,"toc":20240},[19944,19947,19950,19952,19955,19959,19965,19989,19992,20016,20022,20026,20043,20062,20066,20084,20108,20110,20132,20146,20150,20158,20199,20201,20233],[11,19945,19946],{},"Warriors of Chaos are an armoured army with a small model count and an enormous amount of surface detail, which makes them one of the best-value painting projects in The Old World. A regiment of Chaos Warriors is twelve to twenty models, every one of them a slab of plate with fur, brass and bone hanging off it. You are not batch-painting a horde; you are giving each model twenty minutes of proper attention and getting a display-grade unit out of it.",[11,19948,19949],{},"The scheme most people want is undivided - blackened plate, brass trim, fur - because it needs no god's colours and looks menacing at arm's length. It is also the one that trips painters up, because black armour left as black is a silhouette rather than a model.",[15,19951,18],{"id":17},[11,19953,19954],{},"Iron plate so dark it reads black, lifted with a cold grey edge highlight; brass or bronze trim on horns, rims and buckles; heavy matted fur at the shoulders; and one spot colour - usually blood red - on shields and cloth. Everything is dirty, nothing is bright, and the only clean surface on the model is the cutting edge of the weapon.",[15,19956,19958],{"id":19957},"the-blackened-plate","The blackened plate",[11,19960,19961,19962,19964],{},"Undercoat black - a spray of ",[40,19963,16456],{}," or any black primer.",[545,19966,19967,19973,19978,19983],{},[37,19968,19969,19970,19972],{},"Basecoat the plate ",[40,19971,371],{},". Over a black undercoat this is one coat, and its job is to give you a consistent, slightly matt surface to work up from.",[37,19974,567,19975,19977],{},[40,19976,1015],{}," over the upper two-thirds of each plate, leaving the base colour in the joins and under overhangs. Keep the brush fairly dry - you want the recesses untouched.",[37,19979,7487,19980,19982],{},[40,19981,1019],{}," along the top edge of every plate and down the leading edge of the shoulders.",[37,19984,19985,19986,19988],{},"On characters only, add a final catch of ",[40,19987,1311],{}," on the sharpest corners - two or three millimetres at a time, no more.",[11,19990,19991],{},"That is a neutral black. Two variations are worth knowing, and picking one is what stops your army looking like everyone else's:",[34,19993,19994,20005],{},[37,19995,19996,19999,20000,612,20002,20004],{},[40,19997,19998],{},"Cold blue-black:"," swap steps 2 and 3 for ",[40,20001,9288],{},[40,20003,2206],{},". Reads as northern, and sits beautifully against brass.",[37,20006,20007,20010,20011,612,20013,20015],{},[40,20008,20009],{},"Warm brown-black:"," swap them for ",[40,20012,4868],{},[40,20014,11128],{},". Reads as old, neglected iron, and suits a rusted, chipped army.",[11,20017,20018,20019,20021],{},"The ",[774,20020,8371],{"href":8370}," guide covers keeping that final line thin, which matters more on black than on any other colour.",[15,20023,20025],{"id":20024},"brass-steel-and-iron","Brass, steel and iron",[11,20027,20028,20029,666,20031,7224,20033,7230,20035,20037,20038,20040,20041,1077],{},"Brass trim: basecoat ",[40,20030,1563],{},[40,20032,559],{},[40,20034,4823],{},[40,20036,1573],{},". If you want the trim brighter and more ceremonial, start from ",[40,20039,691],{}," and finish with ",[40,20042,698],{},[11,20044,20045,20046,1145,20048,345,20050,20052,20053,20055,20056,20058,20059,20061],{},"Weapons and mail: ",[40,20047,1144],{},[40,20049,356],{},[40,20051,5036],{}," on the edges and a very fine line of ",[40,20054,410],{}," along the blade itself. Stipple ",[40,20057,1151],{}," into the recesses and dab ",[40,20060,1155],{}," around rivets if you want the army to look campaign-worn.",[15,20063,20065],{"id":20064},"fur-leather-and-skin","Fur, leather and skin",[11,20067,20068,20069,1087,20071,6920,20073,20075,20076,20078,20079,3676,20081,20083],{},"Fur cloaks are the largest soft area on the model and deserve a proper drybrush. Basecoat ",[40,20070,952],{},[40,20072,559],{},[40,20074,963],{}," following the direction the fur lies, and finish with a light pass of ",[40,20077,970],{}," on the tips and the crown of the shoulder. For a wolf pelt instead, drybrush ",[40,20080,1015],{},[40,20082,1311],{}," straight over black.",[11,20085,20086,20087,376,20089,376,20091,20093,20094,376,20096,376,20098,345,20100,20102,20103,12934,20105,20107],{},"Straps and scabbards: ",[40,20088,712],{},[40,20090,559],{},[40,20092,725],{}," on the raised edges. Bare skin on marauders and unhelmed champions: ",[40,20095,1041],{},[40,20097,1046],{},[40,20099,1056],{},[40,20101,1063],{}," on the nose, brow and knuckles. For a colder northern pallor, run ",[40,20104,6376],{},[40,20106,584],{}," over the same wash.",[15,20109,629],{"id":628},[11,20111,540,20112,20114,20115,20117,20118,20120,20121,302,20123,20125,20126,20128,20129,20131],{},[40,20113,305],{}," and give the plate a single coat of ",[40,20116,5247],{}," contrast - it pools into the recesses and leaves the raised metal a soft charcoal, which is most of the shading done. Edge it with ",[40,20119,1019],{}," and stop. Fur takes ",[40,20122,1177],{},[40,20124,1180],{}," over the same undercoat, leather takes ",[40,20127,646],{},", and brass is still ",[40,20130,1563],{}," with a wash. That is a tabletop-ready Chaos Warrior in about eight minutes.",[11,20133,20134,20135,20138,20139,612,20141,1214,20143,20145],{},"Army Painter equivalents if that is your shelf: ",[40,20136,20137],{},"Grim Black"," for the plate, ",[40,20140,1210],{},[40,20142,1213],{},[40,20144,18833],{}," for the trim.",[15,20147,20149],{"id":20148},"marks-of-the-gods","Marks of the gods",[11,20151,20152,20153,442,20155,20157],{},"Undivided works best kept to black, brass and a single red - ",[40,20154,375],{},[40,20156,441],{}," on shield faces and cloth. If you dedicate the army, change the cloth and the shield, not the armour:",[34,20159,20160,20168,20179,20189],{},[37,20161,20162,20163,442,20165,20167],{},"Khorne - ",[40,20164,375],{},[40,20166,385],{},", with brass rather than steel everywhere.",[37,20169,20170,20171,442,20173,20175,20176,20178],{},"Tzeentch - ",[40,20172,379],{},[40,20174,6453],{},", gold trim, a ",[40,20177,5104],{}," touch on the copper.",[37,20180,20181,20182,1387,20184,8488,20186,20188],{},"Nurgle - ",[40,20183,4843],{},[40,20185,4846],{},[40,20187,4851],{},", with heavy rust.",[37,20190,20191,20192,1387,20194,442,20196,20198],{},"Slaanesh - ",[40,20193,4881],{},[40,20195,4884],{},[40,20197,8748],{},", and keep the metal bright.",[15,20200,66],{"id":65},[34,20202,20203,20209,20215,20221,20227],{},[37,20204,20205,20208],{},[40,20206,20207],{},"Black armour needs a grey, not a wash."," Washing black gets you nothing. The whole read of the model comes from that edge line, so put your time there.",[37,20210,20211,20214],{},[40,20212,20213],{},"Keep the highlight to the top edges only."," Highlighting every edge on every plate flattens the model and takes three times as long.",[37,20216,20217,20220],{},[40,20218,20219],{},"Warm the brass before you brighten it."," Bronze straight out of the pot over black looks like plastic; the brown shade is what makes it metal.",[37,20222,20223,20226],{},[40,20224,20225],{},"Vary the fur across the regiment."," Two or three pelt colours in a unit of twelve stops it reading as a uniform, which chaos should never do.",[37,20228,20229,20232],{},[40,20230,20231],{},"Matt varnish at the end."," Black plus gloss reads as toy soldier faster than any other combination.",[11,20234,20235,20236,20239],{},"Try the balance of black, brass and your spot colour in the ",[774,20237,1265],{"href":20238},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=33323a"," before you commit the warband.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":20241},[20242,20243,20244,20245,20246,20247,20248],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":19957,"depth":89,"text":19958},{"id":20024,"depth":89,"text":20025},{"id":20064,"depth":89,"text":20065},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":20148,"depth":89,"text":20149},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Warriors of Chaos for The Old World - blackened plate highlighted to cold grey, burnished brass trim, matted fur cloaks and the option to stay undivided or commit to a god.","Warriors of Chaos","#33323a","Blackened plate, brass trim and fur - menace with no patron required",{},"/factions/warriors-of-chaos",{"title":19941,"description":20249},"factions/warriors-of-chaos","1DJZi-qPxK7zsw9yKUowfTRJbDO3Cj_nEeXNVWdHGF4",{"id":20259,"title":20260,"body":20261,"date":96,"description":20327,"extension":98,"faction":20328,"heroImage":20329,"hex":20330,"intro":20331,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":20332,"navigation":104,"path":20333,"seo":20334,"stem":20335,"system":108,"__hash__":20336},"factions/factions/white-scars.md","How to Paint White Scars",{"type":8,"value":20262,"toc":20321},[20263,20266,20268,20271,20275,20278,20289,20292,20296,20299,20301],[11,20264,20265],{},"White Scars are white armour with red trim and tribal markings - a fast, high-contrast scheme once you understand that \"white\" is really a ramp of greys finishing in white, not a single flat colour.",[15,20267,18],{"id":17},[11,20269,20270],{},"Bright white armour, bold red shoulder trim and weapons, gold detailing, and black-and-white tribal patterns. The white needs subtle shading to show form, or the models read as flat blobs.",[15,20272,20274],{"id":20273},"painting-white","Painting white",[11,20276,20277],{},"White straight from the pot over recesses looks chalky and shapeless. Instead:",[34,20279,20280,20283,20286],{},[37,20281,20282],{},"Undercoat grey or use a zenithal (black up to white from above).",[37,20284,20285],{},"Glaze or wash a thin grey/blue into the recesses to define panels.",[37,20287,20288],{},"Layer clean white on the raised areas and edges.",[11,20290,20291],{},"A grey contrast or a thin grey wash over a white undercoat is the quick route - it shades the recesses for you.",[15,20293,20295],{"id":20294},"red-and-tribal-markings","Red and tribal markings",[11,20297,20298],{},"Red shoulders and weapons pop against the white. The lightning/tribal markings are freehand but simple - thin red or black lines following the armour shapes. Practise on a spare model first.",[15,20300,66],{"id":65},[34,20302,20303,20309,20315],{},[37,20304,20305,20308],{},[40,20306,20307],{},"Shade white, don't leave it pure."," Some grey in the recesses is what makes white look painted.",[37,20310,20311,20314],{},[40,20312,20313],{},"Keep recesses cool."," A blue-grey shade looks cleaner than a brown one on white.",[37,20316,20317,20320],{},[40,20318,20319],{},"Two thin coats."," Thick white is the chalkiest finish of all.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":20322},[20323,20324,20325,20326],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":20273,"depth":89,"text":20274},{"id":20294,"depth":89,"text":20295},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint White Scars - clean white armour with red detailing, including how to paint convincing white without it looking flat or grey.","White Scars","/images/factions/white-scars.webp","#e6e8ea","Clean white armour with red detailing",{},"/factions/white-scars",{"title":20260,"description":20327},"factions/white-scars","iMNRmguSaWKc46z3vlezNa0gD46RdbeRZi9r91QYfoA",{"id":20338,"title":20339,"body":20340,"date":833,"description":20621,"extension":98,"faction":20622,"heroImage":510,"hex":20623,"intro":20624,"lastUpdated":833,"meta":20625,"navigation":104,"path":20626,"seo":20627,"stem":20628,"system":1284,"__hash__":20629},"factions/factions/wood-elf-realms.md","How to Paint Wood Elf Realms",{"type":8,"value":20341,"toc":20612},[20342,20345,20348,20350,20353,20357,20360,20386,20403,20409,20413,20416,20447,20450,20454,20473,20488,20501,20514,20516,20542,20554,20558,20571,20573,20605],[11,20343,20344],{},"Wood Elves are the army where the base is half the model. Everything about the scheme - the greens, the browns, the one flash of autumn - only works because it sits on a forest floor, and a Glade Guard on bare plastic looks like a man in a green coat. Plan the basing before you open the first pot, and the rest of the army becomes much easier to judge.",[11,20346,20347],{},"The other thing to decide early is which season you are painting. Deep summer Athel Loren is dark green and near-monochrome; autumn is russet, gold and brown with green only in the shadows. Both look superb. Mixing them across a warhost looks like indecision.",[15,20349,18],{"id":17},[11,20351,20352],{},"Layered greens on cloaks and tunics - not one green, three or four - with warm brown leather, bark-toned wood, pale elven skin, and a single autumn colour used sparingly on cloak linings, leaf motifs, plumes and fletchings. Bronze rather than gold for jewellery, usually with a touch of verdigris. Nothing on a Wood Elf should look manufactured.",[15,20354,20356],{"id":20355},"the-forest-greens","The forest greens",[11,20358,20359],{},"The vivid Athel Loren green, for cloaks and tunics:",[545,20361,20362,20366,20374,20378],{},[37,20363,549,20364,553],{},[40,20365,312],{},[37,20367,556,20368,20370,20371,20373],{},[40,20369,316],{}," in the recesses, or ",[40,20372,559],{}," if you want the shadows warmer and more earthy.",[37,20375,567,20376,6904],{},[40,20377,320],{},[37,20379,1060,20380,20382,20383,20385],{},[40,20381,324],{}," on the topmost edges, with a final ",[40,20384,4851],{}," catch on characters only.",[11,20387,20388,20389,666,20392,317,20394,4642,20396,6261,20398,612,20400,20402],{},"For a muted, camouflaged green that reads more like a scout than a swordsman, run ",[40,20390,20391],{},"Deathworld Forest",[40,20393,4846],{},[40,20395,19875],{},[40,20397,3349],{},[40,20399,5619],{},[40,20401,5607],{}," slot into the same ramp if you want an intermediate step.",[11,20404,20405,20406,20408],{},"The trick is to use both ramps in the same unit. Cloak in the vivid green, tunic in the muted one, hood in a third - ",[40,20407,4531],{}," works well as the darkest of the three. A rank of archers painted in one flat green looks like a uniform, and these are not soldiers.",[15,20410,20412],{"id":20411},"autumn-as-a-spot-colour","Autumn as a spot colour",[11,20414,20415],{},"Cloak linings, leaf ornament, plumes and arrow fletchings carry the warm colour:",[34,20417,20418,20429,20438],{},[37,20419,20420,20421,666,20423,317,20425,1906,20427,578],{},"Bright autumn - ",[40,20422,988],{},[40,20424,10285],{},[40,20426,5119],{},[40,20428,5739],{},[37,20430,20431,20432,666,20434,317,20436,578],{},"Deep russet - ",[40,20433,441],{},[40,20435,559],{},[40,20437,1370],{},[37,20439,20440,20441,666,20443,317,20445,578],{},"Gold-leaf - ",[40,20442,9397],{},[40,20444,6549],{},[40,20446,6552],{},[11,20448,20449],{},"Keep it to roughly a tenth of the model. The whole point of the spot colour is that the eye lands on it, and it stops working the moment there are three of them.",[15,20451,20453],{"id":20452},"bark-leather-and-bronze","Bark, leather and bronze",[11,20455,20456,20457,1087,20459,7010,20461,20463,20464,20466,20467,20469,20470,20472],{},"Wood, bows, staves and Dryad limbs: ",[40,20458,952],{},[40,20460,559],{},[40,20462,963],{}," along the grain, then a light pass of ",[40,20465,590],{}," on the raised bark. Add a stipple of ",[40,20468,4851],{}," in the crevices as moss. ",[774,20471,1026],{"href":1025}," is doing nearly all the work on Treemen and Dryads, and they are quick as a result.",[11,20474,20475,20476,376,20478,345,20480,20482,20483,442,20485,20487],{},"Leather, belts and boots: ",[40,20477,712],{},[40,20479,559],{},[40,20481,725],{}," on the raised edges. Fletchings in ",[40,20484,552],{},[40,20486,570],{}," read clearly against the dark green.",[11,20489,20490,20491,376,20493,376,20495,20497,20498,20500],{},"Jewellery, torcs and glade banner fittings: ",[40,20492,1563],{},[40,20494,559],{},[40,20496,698],{}," on the edges, and a small amount of ",[40,20499,5104],{}," stippled into the recesses. Bronze with verdigris says \"grown here\" in a way that clean gold never does.",[11,20502,20503,20504,376,20506,20508,20509,1114,20511,20513],{},"Skin stays pale and cool: ",[40,20505,6376],{},[40,20507,1046],{},", up to ",[40,20510,584],{},[40,20512,1063],{}," on the lips and knuckles.",[15,20515,629],{"id":628},[11,20517,540,20518,20520,20521,20523,20524,20526,20527,20529,20530,20532,20533,20535,20536,20538,20539,20541],{},[40,20519,301],{}," and let contrast paints do the ramp. ",[40,20522,2523],{}," over the cloaks, ",[40,20525,1177],{}," on all the wood and bark, ",[40,20528,646],{}," on straps and quivers, ",[40,20531,736],{}," on the autumn leaves, ",[40,20534,1190],{}," on the skin. Then go back with one drybrush of ",[40,20537,590],{}," over the bark and one ",[40,20540,324],{}," edge on the cloaks - two minutes that lift the whole thing off \"washed\" and onto \"painted\".",[11,20543,20544,20545,376,20547,376,20550,612,20552,578],{},"Army Painter shelves cover the same ground with ",[40,20546,8407],{},[40,20548,20549],{},"Elf Green",[40,20551,3056],{},[40,20553,10317],{},[15,20555,20557],{"id":20556},"basing","Basing",[11,20559,20560,20561,7010,20563,3676,20565,20567,20568,20570],{},"This is where the army is won. Build up texture paste or fine sand, paint it ",[40,20562,712],{},[40,20564,963],{},[40,20566,590],{},". Add static grass in two tones, a few clumps of dark foliage, and - the detail that sells it - leaf litter, either commercial punched leaves or tiny fragments torn from a dried tea leaf, glued in ones and twos rather than scattered. A couple of exposed roots made from twisted wire or offcuts of sprue, painted with the bark recipe, ties a Treeman's base to a Glade Guard's. The ",[774,20569,777],{"href":776}," covers the texture work in more detail.",[15,20572,66],{"id":65},[34,20574,20575,20581,20587,20593,20599],{},[37,20576,20577,20580],{},[40,20578,20579],{},"Three greens, not one."," The single most common Wood Elf mistake is painting cloak, tunic and base in the same pot. Value separation is what makes the model readable.",[37,20582,20583,20586],{},[40,20584,20585],{},"Do not let the base go green too."," A green model on a green base disappears. Keep the ground brown and let the grass be an accent.",[37,20588,20589,20592],{},[40,20590,20591],{},"Bronze, not gold."," Bright gold jewellery pulls these models towards a High Elf palette and away from the forest.",[37,20594,20595,20598],{},[40,20596,20597],{},"Ration the orange."," One lining, one plume, the fletchings. That is the whole allowance.",[37,20600,20601,20604],{},[40,20602,20603],{},"Matt varnish everything."," Any sheen on greens and browns reads as plastic immediately.",[11,20606,20607,20608,20611],{},"Try the balance of forest green and autumn in the ",[774,20609,1265],{"href":20610},"/tools/scheme-generator?color=2e6b52"," before you commit the warhost.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":20613},[20614,20615,20616,20617,20618,20619,20620],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":20355,"depth":89,"text":20356},{"id":20411,"depth":89,"text":20412},{"id":20452,"depth":89,"text":20453},{"id":628,"depth":89,"text":629},{"id":20556,"depth":89,"text":20557},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Wood Elf Realms for The Old World - layered forest greens, autumn russet and orange as a spot colour, bark and leather browns, and basing that ties the whole warhost to Athel Loren.","Wood Elf Realms","#2e6b52","Forest greens, autumn spot colour and bark-and-leaf basing",{},"/factions/wood-elf-realms",{"title":20339,"description":20621},"factions/wood-elf-realms","LFJPaXM_oMq7PuvQkjMBOZNJzFGFPE98EunAsyl-3jo",{"id":20631,"title":20632,"body":20633,"date":96,"description":20711,"extension":98,"faction":13324,"heroImage":20712,"hex":20713,"intro":20714,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":20715,"navigation":104,"path":20716,"seo":20717,"stem":20718,"system":108,"__hash__":20719},"factions/factions/world-eaters.md","How to Paint World Eaters",{"type":8,"value":20634,"toc":20705},[20635,20638,20640,20643,20647,20666,20670,20673,20684,20686],[11,20636,20637],{},"World Eaters are a fast, brutal army to paint - red and white armour, brass trim, and as much blood, gore and battle damage as you care to add. Precision is not the point; impact is.",[15,20639,18],{"id":17},[11,20641,20642],{},"The classic scheme splits red and white armour panels with blue or brass trim, heavy weathering, and liberal blood effects. It should look savage and battle-worn, not clean.",[15,20644,20646],{"id":20645},"painting-the-red-and-white","Painting the red and white",[34,20648,20649,20654,20660],{},[37,20650,20651,20653],{},[40,20652,6046],{}," - a red contrast over a light undercoat gives fast, glossy coverage; edge highlight orange-red.",[37,20655,20656,20659],{},[40,20657,20658],{},"White"," - shade with a grey wash so the white panels show form against the red.",[37,20661,20662,20665],{},[40,20663,20664],{},"Brass/bronze"," trim - basecoat, brown wash, light highlight; let it look tarnished.",[15,20667,20669],{"id":20668},"blood-gore-and-damage","Blood, gore and damage",[11,20671,20672],{},"This is the fun part:",[34,20674,20675,20678,20681],{},[37,20676,20677],{},"Sponge silver and dark metal chips along all the edges for battle damage.",[37,20679,20680],{},"Use a \"blood for the blood god\" type technical gloss on blades, fists and trophies.",[37,20682,20683],{},"Rust and grime in the recesses sell the relentless-warfare theme.",[15,20685,66],{"id":65},[34,20687,20688,20694,20700],{},[37,20689,20690,20693],{},[40,20691,20692],{},"Lean into mess."," Sloppy chips and pooled blood look intentional here.",[37,20695,20696,20699],{},[40,20697,20698],{},"Contrast the panels."," The red/white split is what makes the scheme read - keep both clean enough to tell apart.",[37,20701,20702,20704],{},[40,20703,6087],{}," Matt blood looks like paint; gloss looks wet and fresh.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":20706},[20707,20708,20709,20710],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":20645,"depth":89,"text":20646},{"id":20668,"depth":89,"text":20669},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint World Eaters - the brutal blue-trimmed red and white armour, brass and plenty of blood and battle damage.","/images/factions/world-eaters.webp","#b21f1f","Red and white armour, brass, and lots of blood",{},"/factions/world-eaters",{"title":20632,"description":20711},"factions/world-eaters","D0mY0QlnYVT1-Lb_uAaxCsTv2hqOtNvpTV2FB0B8MWI"]