[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"faction-/factions/black-templars":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"date":219,"description":220,"extension":221,"faction":222,"heroImage":223,"hex":224,"intro":225,"lastUpdated":219,"meta":226,"navigation":227,"path":228,"seo":229,"stem":230,"system":231,"__hash__":232},"factions/factions/black-templars.md","How to Paint Black Templars",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":209},"minimark",[9,13,18,21,25,41,59,63,66,94,109,138,142,165,169,178,182],[10,11,12],"p",{},"Black Templars are one of the fastest Space Marine armies to get onto the table and one of the hardest to make look genuinely good. The armour is a single colour and needs no shading at all, so a squad goes from sprue to tabletop very quickly. The difficulty is everything else: the white shoulder trim, the red crosses, the parchment and the tabards are all high-contrast details on a black field, and they have nowhere to hide.",[14,15,17],"h2",{"id":16},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[10,19,20],{},"Jet black plate, a black-and-white heraldic shoulder, red crosses, and more parchment and chain than any other chapter. The model should read as a knight in armour rather than a marine, so the cloth and paper details deserve as much attention as the armour.",[14,22,24],{"id":23},"the-armour","The armour",[10,26,27,28,32,33,36,37,40],{},"Undercoat black and leave it. ",[29,30,31],"strong",{},"Abaddon Black"," over a black primer is all the basecoat you need. The mistake is highlighting it grey - a ",[29,34,35],{},"Dawnstone"," or ",[29,38,39],{},"Administratum Grey"," edge on black armour looks like a grey model from a metre away.",[10,42,43,44,47,48,50,51,54,55,58],{},"Instead, highlight black with black plus a hint of blue. Edge the plates with ",[29,45,46],{},"Eshin Grey"," kept very thin and only on the sharpest edges, then a final tiny catch of ",[29,49,35],{}," on corners alone. If you would rather work over a light undercoat, ",[29,52,53],{},"Black Templar"," contrast over ",[29,56,57],{},"Grey Seer"," gives a deep black with soft transitions in one coat and is a genuinely good shortcut for a big army.",[14,60,62],{"id":61},"white-bone-and-the-crosses","White, bone and the crosses",[10,64,65],{},"The white shoulder is where the model is won or lost. Do not try to paint white onto black.",[67,68,69,76,82,88],"ol",{},[70,71,72,73,75],"li",{},"Block the panel in ",[29,74,57],{},".",[70,77,78,79,75],{},"Two thin coats of ",[29,80,81],{},"Corax White",[70,83,84,87],{},[29,85,86],{},"White Scar"," on the upper surfaces only, so the panel has some direction to it.",[70,89,90,91,93],{},"Cut the black back in with ",[29,92,31],{}," to sharpen the edge between the two.",[10,95,96,97,100,101,104,105,108],{},"Crosses go on last: ",[29,98,99],{},"Mephiston Red"," blocked in, ",[29,102,103],{},"Evil Sunz Scarlet"," to tidy the shape, ",[29,106,107],{},"Wild Rider Red"," on the arms of the cross if you want it to pop. A steady hand beats any transfer here, but transfers are perfectly respectable.",[10,110,111,112,115,116,119,120,123,124,127,128,131,132,134,135,75],{},"Parchment is ",[29,113,114],{},"Zandri Dust",", ",[29,117,118],{},"Agrax Earthshade",", then ",[29,121,122],{},"Ushabti Bone"," and a ",[29,125,126],{},"Screaming Skull"," edge. Tabards and cloth take ",[29,129,130],{},"Rhinox Hide"," shaded ",[29,133,118],{}," and highlighted ",[29,136,137],{},"Mournfang Brown",[14,139,141],{"id":140},"metals-and-accents","Metals and accents",[10,143,144,145,131,148,151,152,155,156,131,159,134,161,164],{},"Bolters and backpacks in ",[29,146,147],{},"Leadbelcher",[29,149,150],{},"Nuln Oil",", with ",[29,153,154],{},"Runefang Steel"," on the edges. Chains, seals and aquilas in ",[29,157,158],{},"Retributor Armour",[29,160,118],{},[29,162,163],{},"Auric Armour Gold"," - the gold against black is what makes the army look expensive.",[14,166,168],{"id":167},"crusade-variations","Crusade variations",[10,170,171,172,174,175,177],{},"Every crusade dresses differently, and the scheme takes personalisation well. Swap the shoulder trim to bone (",[29,173,122],{}," over ",[29,176,114],{},") for a more weathered, campaign-worn crusade, or run the black-and-white halved shoulder for a Sword Brethren look. Neophytes traditionally get more black and less white, so their armour is faster still.",[14,179,181],{"id":180},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[183,184,185,191,197,203],"ul",{},[70,186,187,190],{},[29,188,189],{},"Do not highlight black with grey."," Keep highlights sparse, thin and on edges only.",[70,192,193,196],{},[29,194,195],{},"Undercoat black, then work light."," The white details are the slow part; plan the model around them.",[70,198,199,202],{},[29,200,201],{},"Vary the parchment."," A slightly different bone tone on each scroll stops the army looking printed.",[70,204,205,208],{},[29,206,207],{},"Gloss varnish the reds."," Red crosses on matt black armour benefit from a touch of sheen to separate them.",{"title":210,"searchDepth":211,"depth":211,"links":212},"",2,[213,214,215,216,217,218],{"id":16,"depth":211,"text":17},{"id":23,"depth":211,"text":24},{"id":61,"depth":211,"text":62},{"id":140,"depth":211,"text":141},{"id":167,"depth":211,"text":168},{"id":180,"depth":211,"text":181},"2026-08-19","How to paint Black Templars - getting black armour to read as black rather than grey, crisp white and bone details, red crosses, and the parchment that covers every model.","md","Black Templars",null,"#0f1012","Black armour that still reads as armour, plus crisp white crosses and parchment",{},true,"/factions/black-templars",{"title":5,"description":220},"factions/black-templars","40k","Q4tBALRLinnUGGEELTqJgBmlh2vlwLdFaqr0Im59Huk"]