[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"faction-/factions/aeldari":3},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"date":243,"description":244,"extension":245,"faction":246,"heroImage":247,"hex":248,"intro":249,"lastUpdated":243,"meta":250,"navigation":251,"path":252,"seo":253,"stem":254,"system":255,"__hash__":256},"factions/factions/aeldari.md","How to Paint Aeldari",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":234},"minimark",[9,13,18,21,25,37,66,92,96,125,142,146,149,201,204,208],[10,11,12],"p",{},"Aeldari are the opposite of a wash-and-drybrush army. The armour is smooth, curved and almost entirely free of the rivets and cabling that hide mistakes on other factions, so every brush mark shows. That sounds punishing, but it cuts both ways: there is very little to paint. A Guardian is two large armour colours, a helmet, a gun and a gem. Get those four things clean and the model looks finished.",[14,15,17],"h2",{"id":16},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[10,19,20],{},"A craftworld model is built on hard contrast between two flat colours - the body armour and the helmet or shoulder plates - with a bone or white secondary and one point of glowing gemstone. There is no grime and no chipping. Aeldari wargear is meant to look grown rather than manufactured, so keep the finish even and resist the urge to weather anything.",[14,22,24],{"id":23},"the-armour","The armour",[10,26,27,28,32,33,36],{},"Thin your paint and build up. Over a ",[29,30,31],"strong",{},"Wraithbone"," or ",[29,34,35],{},"Grey Seer"," undercoat, two thin coats of the base colour will cover where one thick coat would pool in the panel lines and ruin them.",[10,38,39,40,43,44,47,48,51,52,55,56,59,60,62,63,65],{},"For a Biel-Tan green: base ",[29,41,42],{},"Caliban Green",", shade only in the recesses with ",[29,45,46],{},"Biel-Tan Green",", layer ",[29,49,50],{},"Warpstone Glow"," across the panel and edge-highlight ",[29,53,54],{},"Moot Green",". For the fast version, a single coat of ",[29,57,58],{},"Aeldari Emerald"," over ",[29,61,31],{}," does the shading and basecoat in one pass, and you can still edge it with ",[29,64,54],{}," afterwards.",[10,67,68,69,59,72,75,76,79,80,83,84,87,88,91],{},"Contrast panels in ",[29,70,71],{},"Ulthuan Grey",[29,73,74],{},"Celestra Grey",", then ",[29,77,78],{},"White Scar"," on the highest edges, give you the crisp white the scheme needs. Weapons and undersuits stay dark - ",[29,81,82],{},"Incubi Darkness"," shaded with ",[29,85,86],{},"Nuln Oil"," and edged ",[29,89,90],{},"Kabalite Green"," reads as alien and keeps the bright armour dominant.",[14,93,95],{"id":94},"spiritstones-and-gems","Spiritstones and gems",[10,97,98,99,102,103,106,107,32,110,112,113,106,116,106,119,121,122,124],{},"This is the detail that sells the model, and it takes about thirty seconds each. Paint the stone ",[29,100,101],{},"Abaddon Black",", then a crescent of colour in the lower two-thirds - ",[29,104,105],{},"Khorne Red",", ",[29,108,109],{},"Kantor Blue",[29,111,42],{}," - leaving black at the top. Add a smaller, brighter crescent inside it (",[29,114,115],{},"Evil Sunz Scarlet",[29,117,118],{},"Teclis Blue",[29,120,50],{},"), then a single dot of ",[29,123,78],{}," at the upper edge. Gloss it and you are done.",[10,126,127,128,106,131,32,134,137,138,141],{},"Faster still: ",[29,129,130],{},"Spiritstone Red",[29,132,133],{},"Soulstone Blue",[29,135,136],{},"Waystone Green"," over a ",[29,139,140],{},"Runefang Steel"," base gives a glossy jewelled finish in one coat, which is exactly what the technical paints were made for.",[14,143,145],{"id":144},"craftworld-colour-schemes","Craftworld colour schemes",[10,147,148],{},"The recipe is the same each time; only the two armour colours change.",[150,151,152,159,165,178,190],"ul",{},[153,154,155,158],"li",{},[29,156,157],{},"Biel-Tan"," - green armour, white or bone secondary.",[153,160,161,164],{},[29,162,163],{},"Ulthwe"," - black armour with bone, the quickest of the lot.",[153,166,167,170,171,174,175,177],{},[29,168,169],{},"Saim-Hann"," - ",[29,172,173],{},"Mephiston Red"," into ",[29,176,115],{},", black secondary.",[153,179,180,170,183,174,186,189],{},[29,181,182],{},"Iyanden",[29,184,185],{},"Averland Sunset",[29,187,188],{},"Yriel Yellow",", deep blue helmets.",[153,191,192,170,195,174,197,200],{},[29,193,194],{},"Alaitoc",[29,196,109],{},[29,198,199],{},"Alaitoc Blue",", bone secondary.",[10,202,203],{},"Yellow Iyanden is the slowest by a distance; black Ulthwe is the fastest army on this list, since the armour is a single dark colour and all the work goes into the bone panels and gems.",[14,205,207],{"id":206},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[150,209,210,216,222,228],{},[153,211,212,215],{},[29,213,214],{},"Undercoat light."," Aeldari colours are saturated and thin. A black undercoat will fight you for three extra coats.",[153,217,218,221],{},[29,219,220],{},"Do not wash the whole model."," An all-over shade muddies the smooth panels. Shade only the recess lines, with a brush, and wipe the excess.",[153,223,224,227],{},[29,225,226],{},"Edge highlights, not blends."," A clean thin line along each panel edge does more for these curved shapes than any amount of blending.",[153,229,230,233],{},[29,231,232],{},"One bright accent per model."," The gems and the weapon glow should be the only things shouting.",{"title":235,"searchDepth":236,"depth":236,"links":237},"",2,[238,239,240,241,242],{"id":16,"depth":236,"text":17},{"id":23,"depth":236,"text":24},{"id":94,"depth":236,"text":95},{"id":144,"depth":236,"text":145},{"id":206,"depth":236,"text":207},"2026-08-19","How to paint Aeldari - smooth craftworld armour, sharp contrast panels, glowing spiritstones and gems, and the craftworld colour schemes from Biel-Tan and Saim-Hann to Ulthwe.","md","Aeldari",null,"#137a4e","Smooth craftworld armour, sharp contrast panels and glowing spiritstones",{},true,"/factions/aeldari",{"title":5,"description":244},"factions/aeldari","40k","FRp90ALImhD0YJe6kfetnySrbNLrbXF73aVUQ5GFqFE"]