[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"factions-index":3},[4,110,189,279,358,448,523,606,701,787,860,936,1029,1111,1187,1277,1383,1462,1589,1664,1743,1816,1912,2003,2122,2204,2286,2370,2444,2519,2614,2693],{"id":5,"title":6,"body":7,"date":96,"description":97,"extension":98,"faction":99,"heroImage":100,"hex":101,"intro":102,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":103,"navigation":104,"path":105,"seo":106,"stem":107,"system":108,"__hash__":109},"factions/factions/adepta-sororitas.md","How to Paint Adepta Sororitas",{"type":8,"value":9,"toc":87},"minimark",[10,14,19,22,26,29,33,56,60,63,67],[11,12,13],"p",{},"The Adepta Sororitas - Sisters of Battle - are an ornate, characterful army. The most common scheme, the Order of Our Martyred Lady, is black armour with red, gold and bone, giving a striking high-contrast look across detailed, robed models.",[15,16,18],"h2",{"id":17},"the-signature-look","The signature look",[11,20,21],{},"Black power armour, deep red robes and cloth, gold trim and aquilas, and bone or white tabards and parchment. The black needs lifting with highlights, and the red and gold provide the colour that makes the army sing.",[15,23,25],{"id":24},"painting-the-black-armour","Painting the black armour",[11,27,28],{},"As with any black scheme, flat black reads as a silhouette. Edge highlight with a cool grey-blue, keeping the lines crisp on the angular armour. A zenithal undercoat makes this far easier.",[15,30,32],{"id":31},"robes-gold-and-bone","Robes, gold and bone",[34,35,36,44,50],"ul",{},[37,38,39,43],"li",{},[40,41,42],"strong",{},"Red robes"," - a red contrast or a mid-red basecoat, shaded and highlighted; keep them rich.",[37,45,46,49],{},[40,47,48],{},"Gold"," - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight - the trim is everywhere on these models.",[37,51,52,55],{},[40,53,54],{},"Bone"," - parchment and tabards built from brown up to cream, shaded with brown.",[15,57,59],{"id":58},"order-variations","Order variations",[11,61,62],{},"Swap the robe/armour colours for other orders: Valorous Heart (black/red), Ebon Chalice (black/gold), Bloody Rose (red), Argent Shroud (silver/red), Sacred Rose (white).",[15,64,66],{"id":65},"tips-and-common-mistakes","Tips and common mistakes",[34,68,69,75,81],{},[37,70,71,74],{},[40,72,73],{},"Lift the black."," Edge highlights stop the armour disappearing.",[37,76,77,80],{},[40,78,79],{},"Lots of trim."," Washed gold does most of the detail work for you.",[37,82,83,86],{},[40,84,85],{},"Keep robes rich."," A glaze of red over the shaded cloth deepens it nicely.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":90},"",2,[91,92,93,94,95],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":24,"depth":89,"text":25},{"id":31,"depth":89,"text":32},{"id":58,"depth":89,"text":59},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"2026-06-28","How to paint the Adepta Sororitas (Sisters of Battle) - the black power armour of the Order of Our Martyred Lady, with red, gold and bone detailing.","md","Adepta Sororitas","/images/factions/adepta-sororitas.webp","#1b1b1e","Black armour, red robes, gold and bone - the Sisters of Battle",{},true,"/factions/adepta-sororitas",{"title":6,"description":97},"factions/adepta-sororitas","40k","lhmYlhU3xyJjlKQPuFDAbxEq_eF3f6Exdr90iJ06LNs",{"id":111,"title":112,"body":113,"date":96,"description":179,"extension":98,"faction":180,"heroImage":181,"hex":182,"intro":183,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":184,"navigation":104,"path":185,"seo":186,"stem":187,"system":108,"__hash__":188},"factions/factions/adeptus-custodes.md","How to Paint Adeptus Custodes",{"type":8,"value":114,"toc":173},[115,118,120,123,127,130,144,148,151,153],[11,116,117],{},"Custodes are a small, elite army where every model is a centrepiece, so it is worth slowing down and getting the gold to look genuinely rich. The low model count means you can spend the time that a horde army never allows.",[15,119,18],{"id":17},[11,121,122],{},"Almost entirely gold armour with red and black detailing, blue or red plumes, and ornate trim. The gold has to carry the model, so depth - dark recesses up to bright highlights - is everything.",[15,124,126],{"id":125},"painting-the-gold","Painting the gold",[11,128,129],{},"Two approaches:",[34,131,132,138],{},[37,133,134,137],{},[40,135,136],{},"Metallic gold (easier)."," Basecoat a rich gold, shade heavily with a brown/sepia wash plus targeted dark recesses, then highlight edges with brighter gold and a final silver touch on the sharpest points. The contrast between deep brown recesses and bright edges is what sells it.",[37,139,140,143],{},[40,141,142],{},"Non-metallic metal, NMM (advanced)."," Paint the \"metal\" with browns, yellows and creams to fake reflections. Stunning but time-consuming - save it for characters.",[15,145,147],{"id":146},"accents","Accents",[11,149,150],{},"Red and black panels, gilded laurels, and coloured plumes break up the gold. Keep them clean and deliberate - on such a rich base, sloppy accents stand out.",[15,152,66],{"id":65},[34,154,155,161,167],{},[37,156,157,160],{},[40,158,159],{},"Shade gold deeply."," Flat gold looks like brass; deep recesses make it look like gold.",[37,162,163,166],{},[40,164,165],{},"Take your time."," With so few models, each one deserves character-level effort.",[37,168,169,172],{},[40,170,171],{},"Vary the metallics."," A slightly different gold on trim vs plates adds richness.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":174},[175,176,177,178],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":125,"depth":89,"text":126},{"id":146,"depth":89,"text":147},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Adeptus Custodes - rich gold armour done properly with metallics or non-metallic gold, plus red accents and a small elite model count.","Adeptus Custodes","/images/factions/adeptus-custodes.webp","#b8860b","Rich gold armour, done with metallics or NMM",{},"/factions/adeptus-custodes",{"title":112,"description":179},"factions/adeptus-custodes","OlQL51zH8B_qpY5fXvsf0xhJzxZ12vBeZNuaUzRC5Qo",{"id":190,"title":191,"body":192,"date":96,"description":269,"extension":98,"faction":270,"heroImage":271,"hex":272,"intro":273,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":274,"navigation":104,"path":275,"seo":276,"stem":277,"system":108,"__hash__":278},"factions/factions/adeptus-mechanicus.md","How to Paint Adeptus Mechanicus",{"type":8,"value":193,"toc":262},[194,197,199,202,206,226,230,233,237,240,242],[11,195,196],{},"Adeptus Mechanicus models are some of the most detail-dense in the range, mixing cloth robes with masses of mechanical limbs, cables and weaponry. The classic Forge World Mars scheme - deep red and brass - is rich and surprisingly forgiving thanks to all that metal.",[15,198,18],{"id":17},[11,200,201],{},"Deep red robes and armour, brass and bronze mechanical parts, oily steel weapons and cables, and cream or white cloth. The red should be dark and rich, the metals warm and grimy.",[15,203,205],{"id":204},"painting-the-red-and-metal","Painting the red and metal",[34,207,208,214,220],{},[37,209,210,213],{},[40,211,212],{},"Red robes/armour"," - use the ramp above; a red contrast deepens the recesses of the heavily folded cloth automatically.",[37,215,216,219],{},[40,217,218],{},"Brass"," - basecoat, brown wash, light highlight; brass is the dominant metal and reads as the priestly, ancient tech.",[37,221,222,225],{},[40,223,224],{},"Steel"," - keep weapons and pistons dark and oily with a black/brown wash; bright steel looks wrong here.",[15,227,229],{"id":228},"cables-lenses-and-details","Cables, lenses and details",[11,231,232],{},"The endless cables can be picked out in muted colours (olive, grey, dull red) so they don't fight the scheme. Green or red lenses on the optical implants add a point of glow on every model.",[15,234,236],{"id":235},"forge-world-variations","Forge World variations",[11,238,239],{},"Swap the robe colour for other forge worlds: Stygies VIII (teal), Ryza (orange), Graia (white), Lucius (metallic).",[15,241,66],{"id":65},[34,243,244,250,256],{},[37,245,246,249],{},[40,247,248],{},"Don't fear the detail."," Wash-heavy techniques do most of the work on these busy models.",[37,251,252,255],{},[40,253,254],{},"Keep metals warm and dirty."," Brass and oily steel suit the grim machine-cult look.",[37,257,258,261],{},[40,259,260],{},"Mute the cables."," Bright cables distract; muted ones read as functional.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":263},[264,265,266,267,268],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":204,"depth":89,"text":205},{"id":228,"depth":89,"text":229},{"id":235,"depth":89,"text":236},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Adeptus Mechanicus - the deep red robes, brass and metal of Mars, with tips for the heavily mechanical, detail-dense models.","Adeptus Mechanicus","/images/factions/adeptus-mechanicus.webp","#7a1f25","Deep red robes, brass and oily metal",{},"/factions/adeptus-mechanicus",{"title":191,"description":269},"factions/adeptus-mechanicus","OVYOWVJXYOJuMPu-Txz-aHyopQ7G-SuqfFcu2gJRjJM",{"id":280,"title":281,"body":282,"date":96,"description":348,"extension":98,"faction":349,"heroImage":350,"hex":351,"intro":352,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":353,"navigation":104,"path":354,"seo":355,"stem":356,"system":108,"__hash__":357},"factions/factions/astra-militarum.md","How to Paint Astra Militarum",{"type":8,"value":283,"toc":342},[284,287,289,292,296,299,310,313,317,320,322],[11,285,286],{},"The Astra Militarum are the human armies of the Imperium, and you need a lot of them. The whole approach is built around batch painting: a simple, practical scheme applied quickly across ranks of infantry, with tanks as the occasional centrepiece.",[15,288,18],{"id":17},[11,290,291],{},"The iconic Cadian look is military green armour and fatigues, with metal weapons, brown leather and webbing, and flesh faces. It is a grounded, realistic palette - no bright heraldry, just soldiers.",[15,293,295],{"id":294},"batch-painting-infantry","Batch painting infantry",[11,297,298],{},"Speed is everything with guardsmen:",[34,300,301,304,307],{},[37,302,303],{},"Undercoat, then basecoat the largest areas (armour/fatigues) across the whole unit at once.",[37,305,306],{},"One all-over wash to shade everything in a single step.",[37,308,309],{},"A quick drybrush or single highlight on the armour, then pick out metal, leather and faces.",[11,311,312],{},"Contrast paints shine here - a contrast over the right undercoat shades guardsmen automatically and gets a platoon done in an evening.",[15,314,316],{"id":315},"tanks-and-regiments","Tanks and regiments",[11,318,319],{},"Leman Russ tanks and Chimeras give you a canvas for weathering - mud, chipping and stowage. Swap the green for other regiments: Death Korps of Krieg (field grey), Catachan (olive and bare muscle), Tallarn (desert tan), Valhallan (greatcoats).",[15,321,66],{"id":65},[34,323,324,330,336],{},[37,325,326,329],{},[40,327,328],{},"Keep it simple."," A guardsman should take minutes, not hours - save detail for tanks and characters.",[37,331,332,335],{},[40,333,334],{},"One wash to rule them."," A single all-over shade is the fastest way to make ranks look finished.",[37,337,338,341],{},[40,339,340],{},"Weather the tanks."," Mud and chips turn a flat green tank into a war machine.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":343},[344,345,346,347],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":294,"depth":89,"text":295},{"id":315,"depth":89,"text":316},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Astra Militarum - the practical military-green Cadian look, batch-painting infantry fast, with tanks and regiment variations.","Astra Militarum","/images/factions/astra-militarum.webp","#4b5340","Practical military green, batch-painted for a whole regiment",{},"/factions/astra-militarum",{"title":281,"description":348},"factions/astra-militarum","eLD3qRmKR9Fw4N52kt3buIqiGj6dsSpot9F62Z7NAdA",{"id":359,"title":360,"body":361,"date":96,"description":438,"extension":98,"faction":439,"heroImage":440,"hex":441,"intro":442,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":443,"navigation":104,"path":444,"seo":445,"stem":446,"system":108,"__hash__":447},"factions/factions/blood-angels.md","How to Paint Blood Angels",{"type":8,"value":362,"toc":432},[363,366,368,371,375,378,392,395,399,410,412],[11,364,365],{},"Blood Angels are one of the most striking Space Marine chapters and one of the trickiest, because red is a notoriously difficult colour to get clean, even coverage with. Nail the red and the rest of the scheme - gold, black and bone - falls into place quickly.",[15,367,18],{"id":17},[11,369,370],{},"Blood Angels are deep, rich red armour with gold trim, black weapons and joints, and plenty of ornate iconography - wings, blood drops and purity seals. The red should look vibrant and slightly glossy rather than flat or chalky.",[15,372,374],{"id":373},"getting-red-to-cover","Getting red to cover",[11,376,377],{},"Red painted straight over a black undercoat goes patchy and dull. Two reliable approaches:",[34,379,380,386],{},[37,381,382,385],{},[40,383,384],{},"Build up from a base."," Undercoat in a warm tone (a red-brown or even a grey/white zenithal), basecoat a mid red, then a red contrast or glaze to deepen and even it out.",[37,387,388,391],{},[40,389,390],{},"Contrast in one pass."," A red contrast paint over a light undercoat gives smooth, glossy red fast - ideal for a whole army.",[11,393,394],{},"Highlight by edge-highlighting with a brighter orange-red, then a tiny touch of orange on the sharpest corners.",[15,396,398],{"id":397},"death-company-and-successors","Death Company and successors",[34,400,401,407],{},[37,402,403,406],{},[40,404,405],{},"Death Company"," are black armour with red detailing - the inverse scheme, and a great change of pace.",[37,408,409],{},"Successor chapters (Flesh Tearers, Angels Encarmine, Blood Drinkers) reuse the method with darker or two-tone reds.",[15,411,66],{"id":65},[34,413,414,420,426],{},[37,415,416,419],{},[40,417,418],{},"Don't basecoat red over black"," expecting coverage - it never works in one or two coats.",[37,421,422,425],{},[40,423,424],{},"Keep gold warm."," Shade gold trim with a brown wash so it reads as gold, not yellow.",[37,427,428,431],{},[40,429,430],{},"Gloss the red slightly."," A satin rather than dead-matt varnish suits the rich Blood Angels look.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":433},[434,435,436,437],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":373,"depth":89,"text":374},{"id":397,"depth":89,"text":398},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Blood Angels - the rich deep-red armour, gold trim and black detailing, plus how to get smooth red coverage and paint the Death Company.","Blood Angels","/images/factions/blood-angels.webp","#9b1b1e","Deep red armour, gold trim, and getting red to cover cleanly",{},"/factions/blood-angels",{"title":360,"description":438},"factions/blood-angels","xAG2X2R73-yd4XFiDFjynArCUuTGyNd7VfGrquaYZBg",{"id":449,"title":450,"body":451,"date":96,"description":513,"extension":98,"faction":514,"heroImage":515,"hex":516,"intro":517,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":518,"navigation":104,"path":519,"seo":520,"stem":521,"system":108,"__hash__":522},"factions/factions/dark-angels.md","How to Paint Dark Angels",{"type":8,"value":452,"toc":507},[453,456,458,461,465,468,472,486,488],[11,454,455],{},"Dark Angels give you three distinct looks in one army - the green-armoured battle companies, the bone-white Deathwing terminators and the black Ravenwing bikers - so they stay interesting to paint across a whole force.",[15,457,18],{"id":17},[11,459,460],{},"The core scheme is a deep, slightly muted green armour with bone or off-white robes and gold/brass trim. The green should be dark and sombre, not bright, to match the brooding, secretive character of the chapter.",[15,462,464],{"id":463},"painting-the-green-armour","Painting the green armour",[11,466,467],{},"The recipe above gives the ramp. Keep the green desaturated - a touch of the shade mixed into the layer stops it looking too vivid. Edge highlight sparingly so the armour stays dark and grim.",[15,469,471],{"id":470},"the-deathwing-and-ravenwing","The Deathwing and Ravenwing",[34,473,474,480],{},[37,475,476,479],{},[40,477,478],{},"Deathwing"," terminators are bone/ivory. Build bone up from a brown base through cream to near-white, and shade with a thin brown wash in the recesses - avoid heavy black washes that dirty the bone.",[37,481,482,485],{},[40,483,484],{},"Ravenwing"," bikes and speeders are black with white/bone details and red lenses. Use a blue-grey edge highlight to lift the black so it reads as armour, not a silhouette.",[15,487,66],{"id":65},[34,489,490,496,502],{},[37,491,492,495],{},[40,493,494],{},"Don't go too bright on the green."," Saturated green looks more Salamanders than Dark Angels.",[37,497,498,501],{},[40,499,500],{},"Bone needs warmth, not grey."," Shade robes with brown, not black, or they look dirty rather than aged.",[37,503,504,506],{},[40,505,79],{}," Dark Angels models are covered in iconography - a careful brown wash over gold trim does most of the work.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":508},[509,510,511,512],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":463,"depth":89,"text":464},{"id":470,"depth":89,"text":471},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Dark Angels - the dark green armour, bone robes of the Deathwing and black of the Ravenwing, with tips for each of the chapter's three wings.","Dark Angels","/images/factions/dark-angels.webp","#1c3a2e","Dark green armour, bone Deathwing and black Ravenwing",{},"/factions/dark-angels",{"title":450,"description":513},"factions/dark-angels","Qskh0MjFYNfyNBHTzkkfIJTUFWmamEncDzryQBa2Ao8",{"id":524,"title":525,"body":526,"date":96,"description":595,"extension":98,"faction":596,"heroImage":597,"hex":598,"intro":599,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":600,"navigation":104,"path":601,"seo":602,"stem":603,"system":604,"__hash__":605},"factions/factions/daughters-of-khaine.md","How to Paint Daughters of Khaine",{"type":8,"value":527,"toc":589},[528,531,533,536,540,560,564,567,569],[11,529,530],{},"Daughters of Khaine are a fast, high-contrast aelf army - blood-soaked witch-cultists in red, black and gold over pale skin. Lots of bare skin and cloth means contrast paints carry a big part of the work.",[15,532,18],{"id":17},[11,534,535],{},"Deep red cloth and leather, black armour and scales, gold jewellery and weapons, and pale (sometimes blue-tinged) aelf skin. The scheme is bold and dramatic, fitting the murder-cult theme.",[15,537,539],{"id":538},"painting-the-red-and-skin","Painting the red and skin",[34,541,542,548,554],{},[37,543,544,547],{},[40,545,546],{},"Red"," - a red contrast over a light undercoat gives rich, glossy cloth fast; deepen the recesses with a second pass.",[37,549,550,553],{},[40,551,552],{},"Skin"," - a pale flesh basecoat shaded with a soft purple or red wash; keep aelf skin smooth and cool.",[37,555,556,559],{},[40,557,558],{},"Black"," - edge-highlight with grey so the black armour and snake-scales read as form, not silhouette.",[15,561,563],{"id":562},"gold-and-accents","Gold and accents",[11,565,566],{},"Gold jewellery is everywhere on these models - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight. A few touches of bright blood-red on blades (a gloss \"blood\" technical paint) lean into the army's theme.",[15,568,66],{"id":65},[34,570,571,577,583],{},[37,572,573,576],{},[40,574,575],{},"Contrast the skin and red."," A pale, cool skin against deep red cloth is the heart of the scheme.",[37,578,579,582],{},[40,580,581],{},"Don't leave the black flat."," Grey edge highlights bring the armour to life.",[37,584,585,588],{},[40,586,587],{},"Gloss the blood."," Matt blood looks like paint; gloss looks fresh.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":590},[591,592,593,594],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":538,"depth":89,"text":539},{"id":562,"depth":89,"text":563},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Daughters of Khaine - the red, black and gold of the blood-soaked aelf witch-cult, with pale skin and plenty of contrast.","Daughters of Khaine","/images/factions/daughters-of-khaine.webp","#7a1620","Red, black and gold for the aelf witch-cult",{},"/factions/daughters-of-khaine",{"title":525,"description":595},"factions/daughters-of-khaine","aos","6Za9QOCSPMYli-vZ8wQzDA0aGK2mt2qhHrb5NhvcEWo",{"id":607,"title":608,"body":609,"date":96,"description":691,"extension":98,"faction":692,"heroImage":693,"hex":694,"intro":695,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":696,"navigation":104,"path":697,"seo":698,"stem":699,"system":108,"__hash__":700},"factions/factions/death-guard.md","How to Paint Death Guard",{"type":8,"value":610,"toc":685},[611,614,616,619,623,626,650,654,657,659],[11,612,613],{},"Death Guard are the most forgiving \"advanced-looking\" army in the game. The whole faction is built on decay - rust, slime, rot and grime - which means mess is the point. Every imperfection, pooled wash and uneven layer just reads as more corruption, so this is a fantastic army for painters who want a rich, weathered result without needing crisp, clean technique.",[15,615,18],{"id":17},[11,617,618],{},"Death Guard armour is a sickly, washed-out green - somewhere between pallid bone and rotten olive - covered in rust, verdigris, and oozing wounds. The texture-heavy plague armour kits are designed to take washes and drybrushing, so the techniques that look fiddly on smooth Marines are quick and effective here.",[15,620,622],{"id":621},"painting-the-plague-armour","Painting the plague armour",[11,624,625],{},"The recipe above gives you the base ramp for the pallid green. The corruption comes after:",[627,628,629,632,638,644],"ol",{},[37,630,631],{},"Basecoat and shade the armour using the ramp - keep it muted and slightly desaturated.",[37,633,634,637],{},[40,635,636],{},"Rust and corrosion:"," stipple orange and brown around rivets, vents and lower edges. Typhus Corrosion or any dark textured wash through the recesses adds instant grime.",[37,639,640,643],{},[40,641,642],{},"Verdigris:"," a touch of pale turquoise/green on brass and copper trim sells the centuries of rot.",[37,645,646,649],{},[40,647,648],{},"Rust streaks:"," drag thinned orange-brown downward from rivets and chips with a fine brush.",[15,651,653],{"id":652},"gore-slime-and-wounds","Gore, slime and wounds",[11,655,656],{},"The exposed guts and tentacles are where contrast paints shine - a single coat of a flesh or purple contrast over a light base gives instant depth. Gloss varnish or a dedicated \"blood\"/slime technical paint on wounds and mouths adds a wet, fresh-rot sheen that contrasts beautifully with the matt armour.",[15,658,66],{"id":65},[34,660,661,667,673,679],{},[37,662,663,666],{},[40,664,665],{},"Let the washes pool."," On most armies pooling is a mistake; on Death Guard it is grime. Lean into it.",[37,668,669,672],{},[40,670,671],{},"Mix your rust."," Vary orange, brown and dark red so the corrosion looks organic rather than a single flat colour.",[37,674,675,678],{},[40,676,677],{},"Matt armour, gloss gore."," The contrast between a flat, dusty body and a few wet, glossy wounds is what makes Death Guard look genuinely diseased.",[37,680,681,684],{},[40,682,683],{},"Don't overdo verdigris."," A little on the metal trim is striking; too much turns the whole model green-blue and muddy.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":686},[687,688,689,690],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":621,"depth":89,"text":622},{"id":652,"depth":89,"text":653},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A guide to painting Death Guard - the rotting pallid-green armour, rust and corrosion, gore and grime, with contrast paints doing the heavy lifting on all that texture.","Death Guard","/images/factions/death-guard.webp","#9aa05f","Rotten green armour, rust, corrosion and gore made easy with washes",{},"/factions/death-guard",{"title":608,"description":691},"factions/death-guard","9bE4u-xDs1grOzVu27E44g2njoj6RLZCs5NX38yLmFs",{"id":702,"title":703,"body":704,"date":96,"description":777,"extension":98,"faction":778,"heroImage":779,"hex":780,"intro":781,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":782,"navigation":104,"path":783,"seo":784,"stem":785,"system":604,"__hash__":786},"factions/factions/fyreslayers.md","How to Paint Fyreslayers",{"type":8,"value":705,"toc":771},[706,709,711,714,718,731,735,749,751],[11,707,708],{},"Fyreslayers are fire-worshipping duardin - bare-chested berserkers with towering orange mohawks and bronze war-gear. Lots of skin and hair, little armour, and a warm fiery palette make them a distinctive and quick army to paint.",[15,710,18],{"id":17},[11,712,713],{},"Bright orange flaming crests and beards, warm bronze and gold war-plate, tanned bare skin, and ember or lava glows. The whole army runs hot - oranges, golds and reds - which makes it pop on the table.",[15,715,717],{"id":716},"painting-hair-and-skin","Painting hair and skin",[34,719,720,726],{},[37,721,722,725],{},[40,723,724],{},"Fiery crests/beards"," - basecoat orange (or a yellow-to-orange blend), shade the roots with red, and highlight the tips toward yellow for a flame effect. An orange contrast over a light undercoat is the fast version.",[37,727,728,730],{},[40,729,552],{}," - a warm tan flesh, shaded with a brown or red wash and highlighted up; keep it healthy and sun-baked.",[15,732,734],{"id":733},"bronze-and-ember-effects","Bronze and ember effects",[34,736,737,743],{},[37,738,739,742],{},[40,740,741],{},"Bronze/gold"," war-plate - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight; the warm metal suits the fire theme.",[37,744,745,748],{},[40,746,747],{},"Lava and embers"," - on bases and weapons, blend black rock up through deep red to bright orange and yellow cracks for a glowing magma effect.",[15,750,66],{"id":65},[34,752,753,759,765],{},[37,754,755,758],{},[40,756,757],{},"Blend the crests."," A red-root to yellow-tip gradient sells the flaming hair.",[37,760,761,764],{},[40,762,763],{},"Keep it warm."," Oranges, bronzes and tans - avoid cool colours that fight the fire theme.",[37,766,767,770],{},[40,768,769],{},"Lava bases."," A glowing magma base ties the fiery army together.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":772},[773,774,775,776],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":716,"depth":89,"text":717},{"id":733,"depth":89,"text":734},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Fyreslayers - the fiery orange crests, bronze and bare skin of the fire-duardin, with lava and ember effects.","Fyreslayers","/images/factions/fyreslayers.webp","#c2541f","Fiery crests, bronze and bare skin with ember glow",{},"/factions/fyreslayers",{"title":703,"description":777},"factions/fyreslayers","qV91fipNOubJjqCvgvHx0Gc54tlEqdFD857pHo6pmqc",{"id":788,"title":789,"body":790,"date":96,"description":850,"extension":98,"faction":851,"heroImage":852,"hex":853,"intro":854,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":855,"navigation":104,"path":856,"seo":857,"stem":858,"system":604,"__hash__":859},"factions/factions/gloomspite-gitz.md","How to Paint Gloomspite Gitz",{"type":8,"value":791,"toc":844},[792,795,797,800,804,815,819,822,824],[11,793,794],{},"Gloomspite Gitz are cave-dwelling, moon-worshipping grots - a horde army with a unique, atmospheric palette built around the bad moon's eerie light, glowing fungus and gloomy underground colours.",[15,796,18],{"id":17},[11,798,799],{},"Dark blue-grey or muted green grot skin, dark robes and hoods, rusty crude weapons, and the glowing accents of moonshine - luminous yellow-green moons, mushrooms and squig flesh. The army should feel like it just crept out of a damp, moonlit cave.",[15,801,803],{"id":802},"painting-grot-skin-fast","Painting grot skin fast",[34,805,806,809,812],{},[37,807,808],{},"A grey-green or blue-grey skin contrast over a light undercoat shades the wrinkly grot skin in one pass.",[37,810,811],{},"Drybrush or layer a lighter tone on the noses, brows and knuckles.",[37,813,814],{},"Keep the skin muted - the bright colours come from the glow, not the grots.",[15,816,818],{"id":817},"glowing-moons-and-mushrooms","Glowing moons and mushrooms",[11,820,821],{},"The signature effect is luminescence: glowing moon symbols, mushroom caps and squigs. Build them from a dark base up to a bright yellow-green, almost-white core, and glaze the glow onto nearby surfaces (object-source lighting). Bright red squigs are a fun warm counterpoint to all the cold moonlight.",[15,823,66],{"id":65},[34,825,826,832,838],{},[37,827,828,831],{},[40,829,830],{},"Mute the skin, glow the moons."," The contrast between gloomy grots and luminous fungus is the whole atmosphere.",[37,833,834,837],{},[40,835,836],{},"Use contrast paints."," The wrinkly, organic models love them.",[37,839,840,843],{},[40,841,842],{},"Add squig colour."," A few bright red squigs stop the palette feeling entirely cold.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":845},[846,847,848,849],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":802,"depth":89,"text":803},{"id":817,"depth":89,"text":818},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Gloomspite Gitz - the moon-touched grots with their dark blue-grey skin, glowing moons, mushrooms and cave palette.","Gloomspite Gitz","/images/factions/gloomspite-gitz.webp","#4a3a6b","Moonclan grots, glowing moons and cave mushrooms",{},"/factions/gloomspite-gitz",{"title":789,"description":850},"factions/gloomspite-gitz","E_rYIAO5nk511GlQw5coJJuu9ahrwFZi9M2vPiIqDiQ",{"id":861,"title":862,"body":863,"date":96,"description":926,"extension":98,"faction":927,"heroImage":928,"hex":929,"intro":930,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":931,"navigation":104,"path":932,"seo":933,"stem":934,"system":108,"__hash__":935},"factions/factions/grey-knights.md","How to Paint Grey Knights",{"type":8,"value":864,"toc":920},[865,868,870,873,877,888,891,895,898,900],[11,866,867],{},"Grey Knights are silver power armour with gold and bone detailing - a fast army to basecoat thanks to the metallic armour, with plenty of scope for magical force-weapon effects on the characters.",[15,869,18],{"id":17},[11,871,872],{},"Bright but cool silver armour, gold trim, bone tabards and lots of ornate Nemesis weapons. The silver should look clean and noble rather than dirty or industrial.",[15,874,876],{"id":875},"painting-the-silver-armour","Painting the silver armour",[34,878,879,882,885],{},[37,880,881],{},"Basecoat a bright silver (or a leadbelcher-type dark silver for a moodier look).",[37,883,884],{},"Shade with a thin black or blue wash in the recesses only - don't drown the metal or it goes grimy.",[37,886,887],{},"Edge highlight with a brighter silver. Metallics already catch the light, so highlights should be subtle.",[11,889,890],{},"A metallic basecoat plus a careful recess wash gets a Grey Knight tabletop-ready very quickly.",[15,892,894],{"id":893},"force-weapons-and-accents","Force weapons and accents",[11,896,897],{},"The glowing Nemesis force weapons are the highlight: object-source lighting in blue or a cool white, with the glow glazed onto the surrounding hand and armour. Gold trim and red/blue books and seals finish the look.",[15,899,66],{"id":65},[34,901,902,908,914],{},[37,903,904,907],{},[40,905,906],{},"Don't over-wash the silver."," A light recess wash keeps it noble; a heavy one makes it look like dirty steel.",[37,909,910,913],{},[40,911,912],{},"Subtle highlights."," Metallics reflect light already - go gentle.",[37,915,916,919],{},[40,917,918],{},"Make the weapons glow."," A consistent force-weapon colour ties the army together.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":921},[922,923,924,925],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":875,"depth":89,"text":876},{"id":893,"depth":89,"text":894},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Grey Knights - the silver power armour, with tips for keeping metallics clean and adding the chapter's signature force-weapon glow.","Grey Knights","/images/factions/grey-knights.webp","#8b9096","Clean silver armour and glowing force weapons",{},"/factions/grey-knights",{"title":862,"description":926},"factions/grey-knights","I9h4jTxgACVLEzISTR8aaeVIplVbfR3wiIXdtZYAyyQ",{"id":937,"title":938,"body":939,"date":96,"description":1019,"extension":98,"faction":1020,"heroImage":1021,"hex":1022,"intro":1023,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1024,"navigation":104,"path":1025,"seo":1026,"stem":1027,"system":108,"__hash__":1028},"factions/factions/imperial-fists.md","How to Paint Imperial Fists",{"type":8,"value":940,"toc":1013},[941,944,946,949,953,956,970,973,977,991,993],[11,942,943],{},"Imperial Fists are defined by bright yellow armour, which is the single hardest colour to paint well. Yellow has poor pigment coverage, so painting it straight over a dark undercoat gives a streaky, greenish mess. Get the underpainting right and the rest is easy.",[15,945,18],{"id":17},[11,947,948],{},"Clean, bright yellow armour with black and red detailing, gold trim and lots of Imperial iconography. The yellow should be saturated and even - patchiness shows badly on such a bright colour.",[15,950,952],{"id":951},"getting-yellow-to-cover","Getting yellow to cover",[11,954,955],{},"Never basecoat yellow over black. Two methods that work:",[34,957,958,964],{},[37,959,960,963],{},[40,961,962],{},"Build up."," Undercoat white or bone, basecoat with a brown or orange-tinted yellow for coverage, then layer a clean yellow on top and glaze to even it out.",[37,965,966,969],{},[40,967,968],{},"Contrast."," A yellow contrast paint over a white or bone undercoat gives smooth yellow in one or two passes - by far the fastest route for a yellow army.",[11,971,972],{},"Shade only in the deep recesses with a thin brown - black washes turn yellow dirty.",[15,974,976],{"id":975},"successors","Successors",[34,978,979,985],{},[37,980,981,984],{},[40,982,983],{},"Crimson Fists"," - blue armour with red gauntlets (a much easier scheme).",[37,986,987,990],{},[40,988,989],{},"Black Templars"," - black armour with white, for painters who want the opposite of yellow.",[15,992,66],{"id":65},[34,994,995,1001,1007],{},[37,996,997,1000],{},[40,998,999],{},"Light undercoat, always."," Yellow over dark = streaks.",[37,1002,1003,1006],{},[40,1004,1005],{},"Shade with brown, not black."," Black muddies yellow instantly.",[37,1008,1009,1012],{},[40,1010,1011],{},"Thin your coats."," Thick yellow dries chalky and uneven.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1014},[1015,1016,1017,1018],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":951,"depth":89,"text":952},{"id":975,"depth":89,"text":976},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Imperial Fists - the bright yellow armour that trips up so many painters, with the base-build and contrast methods that actually give smooth yellow coverage.","Imperial Fists","/images/factions/imperial-fists.webp","#f2b417","Bright yellow armour done right, plus black and red detailing",{},"/factions/imperial-fists",{"title":938,"description":1019},"factions/imperial-fists","eRu_HLxG_l8SwidaTBh2MzI564X2gY31OqUYAJAb1LA",{"id":1030,"title":1031,"body":1032,"date":96,"description":1101,"extension":98,"faction":1102,"heroImage":1103,"hex":1104,"intro":1105,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1106,"navigation":104,"path":1107,"seo":1108,"stem":1109,"system":604,"__hash__":1110},"factions/factions/kharadron-overlords.md","How to Paint Kharadron Overlords",{"type":8,"value":1033,"toc":1095},[1034,1037,1039,1042,1046,1066,1070,1073,1075],[11,1035,1036],{},"Kharadron Overlords are steampunk sky-dwarves in panelled armour and flying ironclads. The look is clean, industrial and rivet-heavy - more like painting a vehicle than an organic model - which rewards neat basecoating and panel work.",[15,1038,18],{"id":17},[11,1040,1041],{},"Brass and gold metallics, navy or teal painted-metal armour panels, dark leather, and the warm glow of aether-gold endrins (the floating engines). It should read as a well-engineered, slightly weathered flying machine made flesh.",[15,1043,1045],{"id":1044},"painting-the-panels-and-metal","Painting the panels and metal",[34,1047,1048,1054,1060],{},[37,1049,1050,1053],{},[40,1051,1052],{},"Armour panels"," - flat, even basecoats in navy or teal, edge-highlighted crisply along the riveted plates. Treat them like vehicle panels: shade the recesses, keep the faces clean.",[37,1055,1056,1059],{},[40,1057,1058],{},"Brass and gold"," - basecoat, brown/sepia wash, edge highlight. Half the model is metal, so good, warm metallics carry the scheme.",[37,1061,1062,1065],{},[40,1063,1064],{},"Weathering"," - light chipping and oil grime in the recesses sells the working-machine feel without overdoing it.",[15,1067,1069],{"id":1068},"endrins-and-lenses","Endrins and lenses",[11,1071,1072],{},"The aether-gold endrin spheres and glass lenses are the points of glow - a warm amber or teal light with a soft glaze onto the surrounding brass.",[15,1074,66],{"id":65},[34,1076,1077,1083,1089],{},[37,1078,1079,1082],{},[40,1080,1081],{},"Panel-line, don't slather."," Clean panels with shaded recesses look engineered; an all-over wash looks muddy.",[37,1084,1085,1088],{},[40,1086,1087],{},"Warm metallics."," Brass and gold define the army - shade them deep.",[37,1090,1091,1094],{},[40,1092,1093],{},"Light weathering only."," A little grime reads as \"working\"; too much reads as \"wreck\".",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1096},[1097,1098,1099,1100],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1044,"depth":89,"text":1045},{"id":1068,"depth":89,"text":1069},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Kharadron Overlords - the sky-faring duardin with their brass, navy and aether-gold panelled armour and rivet-heavy steampunk look.","Kharadron Overlords","/images/factions/kharadron-overlords.webp","#1f6f7a","Brass, navy and aether-gold sky-duardin",{},"/factions/kharadron-overlords",{"title":1031,"description":1101},"factions/kharadron-overlords","xAmwVcnQw8aZnGhs2yRVNs_cN_G4t4Kw9iCpTzial1c",{"id":1112,"title":1113,"body":1114,"date":96,"description":1177,"extension":98,"faction":1178,"heroImage":1179,"hex":1180,"intro":1181,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1182,"navigation":104,"path":1183,"seo":1184,"stem":1185,"system":604,"__hash__":1186},"factions/factions/lumineth-realm-lords.md","How to Paint Lumineth Realm-lords",{"type":8,"value":1115,"toc":1171},[1116,1119,1121,1124,1128,1142,1146,1149,1151],[11,1117,1118],{},"The Lumineth Realm-lords are high-fantasy aelves, and their painting reflects it: clean, elegant and bright, built on white and gold with pastel accents. They reward neat, controlled work over weathering - the opposite of a grimy Nurgle or Ork army.",[15,1120,18],{"id":17},[11,1122,1123],{},"Pale gold/aether armour, crisp white cloth, and soft pastel accents (sky blue, mint, lilac) on robes and crests. The whole army should look refined and luminous - smooth colours, sharp edges, no grime.",[15,1125,1127],{"id":1126},"painting-the-gold-and-white","Painting the gold and white",[34,1129,1130,1136],{},[37,1131,1132,1135],{},[40,1133,1134],{},"Gold/aether armour"," - use the ramp above; a warm gold shaded with sepia and edge-highlighted reads as the precious, otherworldly metal of the realm of light.",[37,1137,1138,1141],{},[40,1139,1140],{},"White cloth"," - shade with a thin cool grey or blue in the recesses and layer clean white on top, exactly as for any white scheme. Keep the shading subtle.",[15,1143,1145],{"id":1144},"pastel-accents","Pastel accents",[11,1147,1148],{},"The soft pastel robes and crests are what give Lumineth their serene character. Mix a little white into your accent colours so they stay gentle rather than saturated, and keep transitions smooth.",[15,1150,66],{"id":65},[34,1152,1153,1159,1165],{},[37,1154,1155,1158],{},[40,1156,1157],{},"Keep it clean."," No weathering - Lumineth should look immaculate.",[37,1160,1161,1164],{},[40,1162,1163],{},"Soft accents."," Pastels, not primaries, suit the ethereal aelf aesthetic.",[37,1166,1167,1170],{},[40,1168,1169],{},"Subtle white shading."," A light cool wash in the recesses is enough; heavy shading dirties the look.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1172},[1173,1174,1175,1176],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1126,"depth":89,"text":1127},{"id":1144,"depth":89,"text":1145},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Lumineth Realm-lords - the clean, elegant aelf scheme of white, gold and pastel cloth that defines this high-fantasy Age of Sigmar army.","Lumineth Realm-lords","/images/factions/lumineth-realm-lords.webp","#c9a24b","Clean white, gold and pastel cloth - elegant high aelves",{},"/factions/lumineth-realm-lords",{"title":1113,"description":1177},"factions/lumineth-realm-lords","w9xQmcreKvCYICr_Tksd_WFUaQO0ehFzbTKR8xn87Xs",{"id":1188,"title":1189,"body":1190,"date":96,"description":1267,"extension":98,"faction":1268,"heroImage":1269,"hex":1270,"intro":1271,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1272,"navigation":104,"path":1273,"seo":1274,"stem":1275,"system":604,"__hash__":1276},"factions/factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle.md","How to Paint Maggotkin of Nurgle",{"type":8,"value":1191,"toc":1261},[1192,1195,1197,1200,1204,1215,1219,1239,1241],[11,1193,1194],{},"The Maggotkin of Nurgle are the Age of Sigmar daemons and rotbringers of the Plague God - all decay, rust, slime and exposed guts. Like Death Guard in 40k, mess is the goal, which makes them a wonderfully forgiving and fun army to paint.",[15,1196,18],{"id":17},[11,1198,1199],{},"Pallid, sickly green or grey-green rotting flesh and armour, rusted iron, verdigris on bronze, and plenty of wet, glossy gore and slime. Every imperfection just reads as more rot, so heavy washes and uneven layers are a feature, not a bug.",[15,1201,1203],{"id":1202},"painting-the-rotten-flesh","Painting the rotten flesh",[34,1205,1206,1209,1212],{},[37,1207,1208],{},"Use the ramp above for the muted green-grey base.",[37,1210,1211],{},"A flesh or green contrast over a light undercoat shades the bloated, lumpy forms automatically.",[37,1213,1214],{},"Stipple and glaze patches of pink, purple and yellow for sores, bruising and pus.",[15,1216,1218],{"id":1217},"rust-slime-and-guts","Rust, slime and guts",[34,1220,1221,1227,1233],{},[37,1222,1223,1226],{},[40,1224,1225],{},"Rust"," - stipple orange and brown on metal, with dark textured washes in the recesses.",[37,1228,1229,1232],{},[40,1230,1231],{},"Verdigris"," - pale turquoise on bronze trim.",[37,1234,1235,1238],{},[40,1236,1237],{},"Slime and gore"," - gloss technical paints (green slime, red blood) on mouths, wounds and trailing entrails give the wet, fresh-rot sheen that makes the army look genuinely diseased.",[15,1240,66],{"id":65},[34,1242,1243,1249,1255],{},[37,1244,1245,1248],{},[40,1246,1247],{},"Let washes pool."," Pooling is grime here - lean in.",[37,1250,1251,1254],{},[40,1252,1253],{},"Matt body, gloss gore."," The contrast between dusty flesh and wet slime is the whole look.",[37,1256,1257,1260],{},[40,1258,1259],{},"Vary the rot."," Mix greens, yellows and purples so the decay looks organic.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1262},[1263,1264,1265,1266],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1202,"depth":89,"text":1203},{"id":1217,"depth":89,"text":1218},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Maggotkin of Nurgle - rotting green flesh, rusted armour, slime and gore, with contrast paints doing the heavy lifting on the texture-rich models.","Maggotkin of Nurgle","/images/factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle.webp","#8a8c5a","Rotting flesh, rust and slime made easy with washes",{},"/factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle",{"title":1189,"description":1267},"factions/maggotkin-of-nurgle","1vf0gS3rRYmoqRejINqIkT3tE6dfxgClbqg6YM1TT_U",{"id":1278,"title":1279,"body":1280,"date":96,"description":1373,"extension":98,"faction":1374,"heroImage":1375,"hex":1376,"intro":1377,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1378,"navigation":104,"path":1379,"seo":1380,"stem":1381,"system":108,"__hash__":1382},"factions/factions/necrons.md","How to Paint Necrons",{"type":8,"value":1281,"toc":1367},[1282,1285,1287,1290,1294,1297,1329,1332,1336,1339,1341],[11,1283,1284],{},"Necrons are one of the most beginner-friendly armies to paint and one of the fastest to get a tabletop-ready force on the table. The core of the scheme is a metallic body, which forgives mistakes and rewards quick techniques like drybrushing and washes far more than smooth, flat colours do.",[15,1286,18],{"id":17},[11,1288,1289],{},"The classic Necron look is bare \"living metal\" - a cool gunmetal silver - offset by glowing green energy in the weapons, eyes and spine. That contrast of dull metal against a vivid, almost radioactive green is what reads instantly as Necron, so it is worth getting both halves right rather than just the metal.",[15,1291,1293],{"id":1292},"dynasty-colour-variants","Dynasty colour variants",[11,1295,1296],{},"The bare-metal Sautekh look is the default, but each dynasty has its own twist, and swapping the energy colour or adding a metallic tint is an easy way to make your army your own:",[34,1298,1299,1305,1311,1317,1323],{},[37,1300,1301,1304],{},[40,1302,1303],{},"Sautekh"," - straight gunmetal with green energy (the box-art scheme).",[37,1306,1307,1310],{},[40,1308,1309],{},"Mephrit"," - gunmetal with a brass/gold trim and orange or red energy.",[37,1312,1313,1316],{},[40,1314,1315],{},"Szarekhan"," - a warmer gold-tinted metal.",[37,1318,1319,1322],{},[40,1320,1321],{},"Nephrekh"," - a full gold scheme, more time-consuming but striking.",[37,1324,1325,1328],{},[40,1326,1327],{},"Novokh"," - blood-red metal for a close-combat dynasty.",[11,1330,1331],{},"Use the recipe above as your base metal, then change the energy accent (green, orange, blue) to match the dynasty you want.",[15,1333,1335],{"id":1334},"painting-the-energy-effects","Painting the energy effects",[11,1337,1338],{},"The green glow is the part that takes a little care. Build it as object-source lighting: basecoat the recess a dark green, layer up through brighter greens to almost-white at the centre, then glaze the surrounding metal with a thin green so the light appears to spill onto it. A green technical/contrast paint over a light area is the fast version and still looks great at arm's length.",[15,1340,66],{"id":65},[34,1342,1343,1349,1355,1361],{},[37,1344,1345,1348],{},[40,1346,1347],{},"Don't skip the wash."," A dark wash (Nuln Oil or any black/brown shade) over the metal is what turns a flat silver into something with depth. It is the single highest-impact step.",[37,1350,1351,1354],{},[40,1352,1353],{},"Drybrush up."," A light silver drybrush after the wash catches every edge and detail in seconds - perfect for the bony, mechanical Necron forms.",[37,1356,1357,1360],{},[40,1358,1359],{},"Keep the metal cool."," Warm silvers can look like tin foil; a cool gunmetal reads as ancient and sinister.",[37,1362,1363,1366],{},[40,1364,1365],{},"Batch paint."," Necron armies are large and the scheme is quick - paint ten bodies at once through each step rather than finishing models one at a time.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1368},[1369,1370,1371,1372],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1292,"depth":89,"text":1293},{"id":1334,"depth":89,"text":1335},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A complete guide to painting Necrons - the classic gunmetal living-metal scheme, dynasty colour variants, and the glowing green energy effects that define the faction.","Necrons","/images/factions/necrons.webp","#6f7378","The living-metal look, dynasty variations, and glowing energy effects",{},"/factions/necrons",{"title":1279,"description":1373},"factions/necrons","JveiqM_7uRBD2bs85SycHv1oKCRl8xCBjFsiFtpZ4yY",{"id":1384,"title":1385,"body":1386,"date":96,"description":1452,"extension":98,"faction":1453,"heroImage":1454,"hex":1455,"intro":1456,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1457,"navigation":104,"path":1458,"seo":1459,"stem":1460,"system":604,"__hash__":1461},"factions/factions/nighthaunt.md","How to Paint Nighthaunt",{"type":8,"value":1387,"toc":1446},[1388,1391,1393,1396,1400,1403,1414,1417,1421,1424,1426],[11,1389,1390],{},"Nighthaunt are spectral undead, and their entire aesthetic is the ethereal glow of a ghost. It is one of the most striking armies on the table and, thanks to contrast paints, one of the fastest to paint - the signature look is practically built for the technique.",[15,1392,18],{"id":17},[11,1394,1395],{},"Translucent teal/blue-white spirits fading from a glowing core to wispy, pale tails, with bone, rusted iron and the occasional spot colour (a lantern, a cloak). The key effect is the spectral fade - bright where the spirit is \"solid\", fading to white at the trailing edges.",[15,1397,1399],{"id":1398},"painting-the-ethereal-glow","Painting the ethereal glow",[11,1401,1402],{},"The classic method is a single contrast paint (a spectral green or blue) over a white undercoat, applied so it pools in the recesses and lower body and thins out toward the top:",[627,1404,1405,1408,1411],{},[37,1406,1407],{},"Undercoat white.",[37,1409,1410],{},"Apply a teal/green spirit contrast heavily at the base and recesses.",[37,1412,1413],{},"Pull it thin (or leave white) toward the upper edges and tails so the spirit looks like it is dissolving into light.",[11,1415,1416],{},"That is genuinely most of the model done in one pass.",[15,1418,1420],{"id":1419},"bone-iron-and-accents","Bone, iron and accents",[11,1422,1423],{},"Wraith bone (cream, brown wash), rusted chains and weapons (dark metal, orange rust), and a single warm accent - a glowing lantern or a coloured cloak - give the eye somewhere to land amid all the cool spectral tones.",[15,1425,66],{"id":65},[34,1427,1428,1434,1440],{},[37,1429,1430,1433],{},[40,1431,1432],{},"Let the contrast fade."," The transition from solid to wispy is the whole effect - don't paint the spirit a flat, even colour.",[37,1435,1436,1439],{},[40,1437,1438],{},"Keep it cool."," Teal and blue read as spectral; warm tones break the illusion.",[37,1441,1442,1445],{},[40,1443,1444],{},"One warm accent."," A single lantern or flame stops the army feeling monotonous.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1447},[1448,1449,1450,1451],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1398,"depth":89,"text":1399},{"id":1419,"depth":89,"text":1420},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Nighthaunt - the ghostly translucent look using contrast paints and a glow-from-within blend, one of the fastest striking armies in the hobby.","Nighthaunt","/images/factions/nighthaunt.webp","#2f6b6b","Ghostly, glowing spirits done fast with contrast paints",{},"/factions/nighthaunt",{"title":1385,"description":1452},"factions/nighthaunt","c7QqQhxecBp3C46vz2gZmUzVjdmCBeVMfbzroLKUAG0",{"id":1463,"title":1464,"body":1465,"date":96,"description":1579,"extension":98,"faction":1580,"heroImage":1581,"hex":1582,"intro":1583,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1584,"navigation":104,"path":1585,"seo":1586,"stem":1587,"system":108,"__hash__":1588},"factions/factions/orks.md","How to Paint Orks",{"type":8,"value":1466,"toc":1572},[1467,1470,1472,1475,1479,1482,1493,1496,1500,1503,1517,1521,1524,1550,1552],[11,1468,1469],{},"Orks are a brilliant army for painters who want character over precision. The whole aesthetic is scrappy, mismatched and weathered, so clean lines and perfect blends are not the goal - energy, contrast and a bit of grime are. They paint up fast and look better the rougher they get.",[15,1471,18],{"id":17},[11,1473,1474],{},"Orks are defined by green skin and improvised metal armour and weapons. The skin recipe above gives you the ramp from a dark shaded green up to a bright, almost cartoonish highlight on the nose, brow and knuckles - that bright pop of green is what makes an Ork read as alive and aggressive.",[15,1476,1478],{"id":1477},"painting-ork-skin-fast","Painting Ork skin fast",[11,1480,1481],{},"Green skin is the perfect candidate for the fast contrast/wash method:",[627,1483,1484,1487,1490],{},[37,1485,1486],{},"Basecoat the skin a mid green (or undercoat and use a green contrast paint in one pass).",[37,1488,1489],{},"If you went the classic route, wash it with a green or black shade to sink the recesses.",[37,1491,1492],{},"Layer the original green back on the raised muscle, then a final bright highlight on the very top - the brow ridge, nose, fists and shoulders.",[11,1494,1495],{},"For a whole mob, the one-coat contrast approach over a light undercoat gets you tabletop-ready in a fraction of the time.",[15,1497,1499],{"id":1498},"metal-rust-and-weathering","Metal, rust and weathering",[11,1501,1502],{},"The armour is where Orks come alive. Keep the metal dark and grimy, not shiny:",[34,1504,1505,1508,1511,1514],{},[37,1506,1507],{},"Basecoat plates a dark metal, wash heavily with a brown or black shade.",[37,1509,1510],{},"Stipple or sponge rust (orange and brown) along edges and rivets.",[37,1512,1513],{},"Add chips with a fine brush or a torn sponge so the metal looks beaten and scavenged.",[37,1515,1516],{},"A few spots of bright clan colour (red, blue, yellow) break up the green and metal.",[15,1518,1520],{"id":1519},"clan-colour-variations","Clan colour variations",[11,1522,1523],{},"A spot colour ties a mob together and follows Ork \"logic\":",[34,1525,1526,1532,1538,1544],{},[37,1527,1528,1531],{},[40,1529,1530],{},"Goffs"," - black and white checks, red details.",[37,1533,1534,1537],{},[40,1535,1536],{},"Evil Sunz"," - lots of red (because red wunz go fasta).",[37,1539,1540,1543],{},[40,1541,1542],{},"Bad Moons"," - yellow.",[37,1545,1546,1549],{},[40,1547,1548],{},"Deathskulls"," - blue, plus a bit of everything looted.",[15,1551,66],{"id":65},[34,1553,1554,1560,1566],{},[37,1555,1556,1559],{},[40,1557,1558],{},"Embrace the mess."," Sponge weathering and slightly sloppy chips look intentional on Orks - this is the army to relax on.",[37,1561,1562,1565],{},[40,1563,1564],{},"Vary the skin."," Don't paint every Ork's skin identically; small differences make a mob look like a horde, not clones.",[37,1567,1568,1571],{},[40,1569,1570],{},"Batch the green."," Skin is most of the model - do the whole mob's skin through each step at once, then individualise the gubbinz.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1573},[1574,1575,1576,1577,1578],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1477,"depth":89,"text":1478},{"id":1498,"depth":89,"text":1499},{"id":1519,"depth":89,"text":1520},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Orks fast - the classic green skin recipe, scrappy metal armour, rust and weathering, and the clan colour variations that give an Ork army its character.","Orks","/images/factions/orks.webp","#4f7a2a","Green skin, scrappy metal, rust and weathering done fast",{},"/factions/orks",{"title":1464,"description":1579},"factions/orks","tWKsKfMV8E4M1takRQifZxKrVws38F-GWthL6i-HJq4",{"id":1590,"title":1591,"body":1592,"date":96,"description":1654,"extension":98,"faction":1655,"heroImage":1656,"hex":1657,"intro":1658,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1659,"navigation":104,"path":1660,"seo":1661,"stem":1662,"system":604,"__hash__":1663},"factions/factions/ossiarch-bonereapers.md","How to Paint Ossiarch Bonereapers",{"type":8,"value":1593,"toc":1648},[1594,1597,1599,1602,1606,1609,1620,1624,1627,1629],[11,1595,1596],{},"Ossiarch Bonereapers are elite undead built from sculpted bone - precise, regal and unsettling rather than rotting. Most of the model is bone, so getting a clean, warm bone recipe down is the whole job, with a couple of strong accents to lift it.",[15,1598,18],{"id":17},[11,1600,1601],{},"Smooth, pale bone bodies (warmer and cleaner than a skeleton horde), deep teal or green cloth, gold trim, and the eerie black-green glow of nadirite weapons. The effect should be cold and aristocratic.",[15,1603,1605],{"id":1604},"painting-the-bone","Painting the bone",[11,1607,1608],{},"Bone is the army, so build it well:",[34,1610,1611,1614,1617],{},[37,1612,1613],{},"Basecoat a mid bone/brown, shade with a thin brown wash in the recesses, and layer up through cream to near-white on the high points.",[37,1615,1616],{},"A bone contrast over a light undercoat is the fast route and shades the sculpted detail for you.",[37,1618,1619],{},"Keep it warm - a brown rather than grey shade stops the bone looking like dirty plastic.",[15,1621,1623],{"id":1622},"nadirite-weapons-and-accents","Nadirite weapons and accents",[11,1625,1626],{},"The signature nadirite blades use a dark teal-to-black blend with a sharp green-white edge glow - object-source lighting that makes the weapons look supernaturally cold. Teal cloth and gold trim complete the regal look.",[15,1628,66],{"id":65},[34,1630,1631,1637,1643],{},[37,1632,1633,1636],{},[40,1634,1635],{},"Warm the bone."," Brown shading reads as bone; grey reads as grime.",[37,1638,1639,1642],{},[40,1640,1641],{},"Smooth, not grimy."," Unlike Skaven or Nighthaunt, Bonereapers are clean and sculpted - keep washes controlled.",[37,1644,1645,1647],{},[40,1646,918],{}," The nadirite edge is the army's signature - don't skip it.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1649},[1650,1651,1652,1653],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1604,"depth":89,"text":1605},{"id":1622,"depth":89,"text":1623},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Ossiarch Bonereapers - the smooth sculpted bone, teal cloth and eerie nadirite black-green weapons of the undead bone-constructs.","Ossiarch Bonereapers","/images/factions/ossiarch-bonereapers.webp","#cdbb94","Sculpted bone, teal cloth and nadirite weapons",{},"/factions/ossiarch-bonereapers",{"title":1591,"description":1654},"factions/ossiarch-bonereapers","yjvKLDS40JgFz6_sDB-6x7nXNKxQkyPxbY3oSRZvOfg",{"id":1665,"title":1666,"body":1667,"date":96,"description":1733,"extension":98,"faction":1734,"heroImage":1735,"hex":1736,"intro":1737,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1738,"navigation":104,"path":1739,"seo":1740,"stem":1741,"system":108,"__hash__":1742},"factions/factions/raven-guard.md","How to Paint Raven Guard",{"type":8,"value":1668,"toc":1727},[1669,1672,1674,1677,1681,1684,1695,1698,1702,1705,1707],[11,1670,1671],{},"Raven Guard are black power armour - one of the fastest schemes to basecoat and one of the easiest to get wrong, because flat black reads as a featureless silhouette. The trick is all in the highlights.",[15,1673,18],{"id":17},[11,1675,1676],{},"Sleek, near-black armour with cool grey-blue edge highlights, white chapter iconography and red lenses. The look is stealthy and elegant - sharp lines, restrained highlighting.",[15,1678,1680],{"id":1679},"painting-black-armour","Painting black armour",[11,1682,1683],{},"Black over a black undercoat shows no detail. To make it read as armour:",[34,1685,1686,1689,1692],{},[37,1687,1688],{},"Use a zenithal undercoat (black up to grey) so the form is already suggested.",[37,1690,1691],{},"Edge highlight with a dark blue-grey, then a sharper light grey on the very edges only.",[37,1693,1694],{},"Keep the highlights cool (grey-blue), never warm - warm highlights make black look dusty.",[11,1696,1697],{},"A grey drybrush followed by a black glaze to knock it back is a fast alternative for rank-and-file.",[15,1699,1701],{"id":1700},"markings-and-lenses","Markings and lenses",[11,1703,1704],{},"White shoulder trim and chapter badges provide the contrast that stops the model looking like a shadow. Red or green lenses add a final point of colour.",[15,1706,66],{"id":65},[34,1708,1709,1715,1721],{},[37,1710,1711,1714],{},[40,1712,1713],{},"Never leave black flat."," Edge highlights are non-negotiable on a black scheme.",[37,1716,1717,1720],{},[40,1718,1719],{},"Highlight cool, not warm."," Blue-grey edges look like armour; brown looks like dust.",[37,1722,1723,1726],{},[40,1724,1725],{},"Less is more."," A couple of crisp highlight lines beat heavy grey edges.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1728},[1729,1730,1731,1732],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1679,"depth":89,"text":1680},{"id":1700,"depth":89,"text":1701},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Raven Guard - sleek black armour done so it reads as armour and not a silhouette, with cool edge highlights and white chapter markings.","Raven Guard","/images/factions/raven-guard.webp","#1a1c1f","Black armour that reads as armour, not a silhouette",{},"/factions/raven-guard",{"title":1666,"description":1733},"factions/raven-guard","4r6aSb-pdFwtOOvyMGtblhoanyQ06QCAA_BPSiXAAdk",{"id":1744,"title":1745,"body":1746,"date":96,"description":1806,"extension":98,"faction":1807,"heroImage":1808,"hex":1809,"intro":1810,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1811,"navigation":104,"path":1812,"seo":1813,"stem":1814,"system":108,"__hash__":1815},"factions/factions/salamanders.md","How to Paint Salamanders",{"type":8,"value":1747,"toc":1800},[1748,1751,1753,1756,1758,1761,1765,1778,1780],[11,1749,1750],{},"Salamanders are one of the most visually distinct Space Marine chapters - bright green armour, jet-black skin and plenty of fire and forge imagery. The strong, saturated green makes them pop on the table, and the dark skin is a fun, unusual detail to paint.",[15,1752,18],{"id":17},[11,1754,1755],{},"Vivid green armour (brighter and more saturated than Dark Angels), black weapons and trim, gold/brass forge details, and the chapter's characteristic green glow on power weapons and drakes. Salamanders are proud of their fire and forge heritage, so flame motifs and heat-stained metal fit well.",[15,1757,464],{"id":463},[11,1759,1760],{},"Use the ramp above and keep the green bright. A green contrast over a white undercoat is a quick way to a clean, vivid basecoat; edge highlight with a lighter, slightly yellow-green for definition.",[15,1762,1764],{"id":1763},"black-skin-and-fiery-details","Black skin and fiery details",[34,1766,1767,1772],{},[37,1768,1769,1771],{},[40,1770,552],{}," - basecoat black/very dark grey, then highlight with cool dark greys and a touch of purple or blue on the high points so it reads as skin, not just black plastic. Salamanders famously have glowing red/orange eyes - a tiny dot of bright orange sells it.",[37,1773,1774,1777],{},[40,1775,1776],{},"Flames and heat"," - blend orange to yellow on flamer tanks and weapon glows; heat-stain exhausts with thin blue and purple glazes over metal.",[15,1779,66],{"id":65},[34,1781,1782,1788,1794],{},[37,1783,1784,1787],{},[40,1785,1786],{},"Keep the green saturated."," Salamanders should look bright and bold.",[37,1789,1790,1793],{},[40,1791,1792],{},"Don't leave skin flat black."," Grey highlights and a bright eye make it read as flesh.",[37,1795,1796,1799],{},[40,1797,1798],{},"Use the eyes."," Glowing orange eyes are a quick, iconic touch.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1801},[1802,1803,1804,1805],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":463,"depth":89,"text":464},{"id":1763,"depth":89,"text":1764},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Salamanders - the vivid green armour, black skin and fiery detailing, with tips for the chapter's signature green glow and flame motifs.","Salamanders","/images/factions/salamanders.webp","#1c6b43","Bright green armour, black skin and fiery accents",{},"/factions/salamanders",{"title":1745,"description":1806},"factions/salamanders","G_l0cJMTKEw5wCfXioTlJPl-ep5bC9UhJ8HEk3-eUKQ",{"id":1817,"title":1818,"body":1819,"date":96,"description":1902,"extension":98,"faction":1903,"heroImage":1904,"hex":1905,"intro":1906,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1907,"navigation":104,"path":1908,"seo":1909,"stem":1910,"system":604,"__hash__":1911},"factions/factions/seraphon.md","How to Paint Seraphon",{"type":8,"value":1820,"toc":1896},[1821,1824,1826,1837,1841,1852,1856,1874,1876],[11,1822,1823],{},"Seraphon are celestial dinosaurs - hulking saurus, darting skinks and giant beasts - so you are painting a lot of scaled reptilian skin. Contrast paints were practically made for this, turning a slow scale-painting job into a fast one.",[15,1825,18],{"id":17},[11,1827,1828,1829,1832,1833,1836],{},"The two classic approaches are ",[40,1830,1831],{},"Coalesced"," (warm, earthy real-lizard tones - reds, browns, greens) and ",[40,1834,1835],{},"Starborne"," (cool celestial blues and turquoise with glowing star-magic). Either way, the scaled skin is the star, supported by gold armour, bone claws and bright war-paint.",[15,1838,1840],{"id":1839},"painting-scaled-skin-fast","Painting scaled skin fast",[34,1842,1843,1846,1849],{},[37,1844,1845],{},"A skin-toned contrast over the right undercoat shades every scale automatically - blue/turquoise for Starborne, green or red-brown for Coalesced.",[37,1847,1848],{},"Drybrush a lighter tone over the scales afterwards to pop the texture.",[37,1850,1851],{},"Vary skink and saurus tones slightly so the army has depth.",[15,1853,1855],{"id":1854},"gold-bone-and-war-paint","Gold, bone and war-paint",[34,1857,1858,1863,1868],{},[37,1859,1860,1862],{},[40,1861,48],{}," armour - basecoat, brown wash, edge highlight.",[37,1864,1865,1867],{},[40,1866,54],{}," claws, teeth and crests - bone basecoat, brown wash, light drybrush.",[37,1869,1870,1873],{},[40,1871,1872],{},"War-paint"," - bright accent stripes (yellow, white, red) on skinks add character and break up the scales.",[15,1875,66],{"id":65},[34,1877,1878,1884,1890],{},[37,1879,1880,1883],{},[40,1881,1882],{},"Use contrast for the scales."," Hand-shading every scale is the slow way; contrast paints are the fast way.",[37,1885,1886,1889],{},[40,1887,1888],{},"Pick a temperature."," Commit to warm (Coalesced) or cool (Starborne) so the army feels cohesive.",[37,1891,1892,1895],{},[40,1893,1894],{},"Bright war-paint."," A few bold accent colours lift the reptilian palette.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1897},[1898,1899,1900,1901],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1839,"depth":89,"text":1840},{"id":1854,"depth":89,"text":1855},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Seraphon - the scaled skin, gold and celestial accents of the star-lizards, with fast contrast methods for big saurus and skink hordes.","Seraphon","/images/factions/seraphon.webp","#1f7a6b","Scaled skin, gold and celestial glow for the star-lizards",{},"/factions/seraphon",{"title":1818,"description":1902},"factions/seraphon","_sDHehrIfSPXikvFtArWj5A8EjTxbe6kB30q8HFo_VQ",{"id":1913,"title":1914,"body":1915,"date":96,"description":1993,"extension":98,"faction":1994,"heroImage":1995,"hex":1996,"intro":1997,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":1998,"navigation":104,"path":1999,"seo":2000,"stem":2001,"system":604,"__hash__":2002},"factions/factions/skaven.md","How to Paint Skaven",{"type":8,"value":1916,"toc":1987},[1917,1920,1922,1925,1929,1955,1958,1962,1965,1967],[11,1918,1919],{},"Skaven are the ultimate horde army - you need dozens of ratmen, and they are meant to look scruffy, diseased and improvised. That makes them one of the most forgiving armies to paint, where mess and grime read as character rather than mistakes.",[15,1921,18],{"id":17},[11,1923,1924],{},"A sea of mangy brown or grey fur, dirty cloth, rusty scavenged armour and weapons, pink tails and ears, and the sickly green glow of warpstone. Nothing should look clean or new - this is a verminous underhive horde.",[15,1926,1928],{"id":1927},"painting-the-horde-fast","Painting the horde fast",[34,1930,1931,1937,1943,1949],{},[37,1932,1933,1936],{},[40,1934,1935],{},"Fur"," - basecoat brown or grey, wash heavily, then a quick drybrush up. A fur contrast paint over a light undercoat does it in one pass.",[37,1938,1939,1942],{},[40,1940,1941],{},"Skin (tails, ears, hands)"," - a pink/flesh contrast over the undercoat.",[37,1944,1945,1948],{},[40,1946,1947],{},"Metal"," - dark and rusty: dark metal basecoat, brown wash, stipple orange rust.",[37,1950,1951,1954],{},[40,1952,1953],{},"Cloth"," - muted, dirty tones - olive, dull red, sackcloth.",[11,1956,1957],{},"A zenithal undercoat plus contrast paints will get a whole clanrat regiment table-ready in an evening.",[15,1959,1961],{"id":1960},"warpstone-glow","Warpstone glow",[11,1963,1964],{},"The one bright accent: glowing green warpstone on weapons and icons. A bright green over a light base, with a thin green glaze onto the surrounding metal for object-source lighting, ties the army together.",[15,1966,66],{"id":65},[34,1968,1969,1975,1981],{},[37,1970,1971,1974],{},[40,1972,1973],{},"Embrace the grime."," Heavy washes and rust suit Skaven more than any other army.",[37,1976,1977,1980],{},[40,1978,1979],{},"Vary the fur."," Slightly different brown/grey tones make a horde look like a swarm, not clones.",[37,1982,1983,1986],{},[40,1984,1985],{},"One bright accent."," Warpstone green is the only clean colour - let it pop against all the muck.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":1988},[1989,1990,1991,1992],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":1927,"depth":89,"text":1928},{"id":1960,"depth":89,"text":1961},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Skaven - the scruffy brown fur, rusty improvised metal and glowing warpstone of the ratmen, painted fast for a horde army.","Skaven","/images/factions/skaven.webp","#5a4a3a","Mangy fur, rusty metal and glowing warpstone, done fast",{},"/factions/skaven",{"title":1914,"description":1993},"factions/skaven","3wX2N3xPbEYdFr9i80Se9pwnIl-s_u5tIyJp8d3kJpk",{"id":2004,"title":2005,"body":2006,"date":96,"description":2112,"extension":98,"faction":2113,"heroImage":2114,"hex":2115,"intro":2116,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2117,"navigation":104,"path":2118,"seo":2119,"stem":2120,"system":108,"__hash__":2121},"factions/factions/space-marines.md","How to Paint Space Marines (Ultramarines)",{"type":8,"value":2007,"toc":2106},[2008,2011,2013,2016,2020,2023,2043,2047,2050,2078,2080],[11,2009,2010],{},"Space Marines are the most painted miniatures in the hobby, and for good reason: large, clean armour panels make them an ideal canvas for learning the core techniques of basecoat, shade and highlight. This guide uses the Ultramarines blue as the example, but the method works for any chapter - just swap the base colour in the scheme generator.",[15,2012,18],{"id":17},[11,2014,2015],{},"Ultramarines are deep cobalt blue with gold trim, white helmet stripes or shoulder details, and bone/parchment purity seals. The blue should read rich and saturated, not washed-out, with crisp edge highlights that define the hard angular armour.",[15,2017,2019],{"id":2018},"painting-the-blue-armour","Painting the blue armour",[11,2021,2022],{},"The recipe above gives you the full ramp, but the technique matters as much as the paints:",[627,2024,2025,2031,2037],{},[37,2026,2027,2030],{},[40,2028,2029],{},"Basecoat smoothly."," Thin your base colour with a little water and do two thin coats rather than one thick one - thick paint clogs the detail and dries patchy.",[37,2032,2033,2036],{},[40,2034,2035],{},"Shade in the recesses only."," Use a targeted wash in the joints and panel lines rather than slopping it over the whole model, so the flat armour stays clean.",[37,2038,2039,2042],{},[40,2040,2041],{},"Edge highlight."," This is what makes Space Marines pop. Drag a fine brush along the topmost edges with the highlight colour, then hit only the corners with the edge-highlight tone. Keep the line thin.",[15,2044,2046],{"id":2045},"adapting-to-other-chapters","Adapting to other chapters",[11,2048,2049],{},"Every chapter is the same method with a different base colour. Open the chapter's armour colour in the scheme generator and the recipe rebuilds itself:",[34,2051,2052,2057,2062,2067,2073],{},[37,2053,2054,2056],{},[40,2055,439],{}," - deep red, gold trim.",[37,2058,2059,2061],{},[40,2060,514],{}," - dark green, bone robes.",[37,2063,2064,2066],{},[40,2065,1020],{}," - yellow (build yellow up from a brown/orange base for coverage).",[37,2068,2069,2072],{},[40,2070,2071],{},"Space Wolves"," - blue-grey with lots of metal and fur.",[37,2074,2075,2077],{},[40,2076,1807],{}," - dark green with a green-stable energy and black skin.",[15,2079,66],{"id":65},[34,2081,2082,2088,2094,2100],{},[37,2083,2084,2087],{},[40,2085,2086],{},"Two thin coats beats one thick coat."," Almost every \"my Marines look messy\" problem traces back to over-thick paint.",[37,2089,2090,2093],{},[40,2091,2092],{},"Don't over-wash."," A full-model wash muddies the clean armour. Shade the recesses, not the panels.",[37,2095,2096,2099],{},[40,2097,2098],{},"Gold trim last."," Paint the trim after the armour so you can tidy any overspill with the blue, then a brown wash brings the gold to life.",[37,2101,2102,2105],{},[40,2103,2104],{},"Decals over edge highlights."," Apply transfers after highlighting, then a matt varnish blends them into the surface.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2107},[2108,2109,2110,2111],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2018,"depth":89,"text":2019},{"id":2045,"depth":89,"text":2046},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"A step-by-step guide to painting Space Marines using the Ultramarines blue scheme - base, shade and edge highlights - plus how to adapt the recipe to any chapter colour.","Space Marines","/images/factions/space-marines.webp","#15407a","The Ultramarines blue scheme, edge highlighting, and adapting it to any chapter",{},"/factions/space-marines",{"title":2005,"description":2112},"factions/space-marines","VHvFP4JERe9T8Vu_WJ8qUTUfLtfCVmBY6oTETIpDyh8",{"id":2123,"title":2124,"body":2125,"date":96,"description":2195,"extension":98,"faction":2071,"heroImage":2196,"hex":2197,"intro":2198,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2199,"navigation":104,"path":2200,"seo":2201,"stem":2202,"system":108,"__hash__":2203},"factions/factions/space-wolves.md","How to Paint Space Wolves",{"type":8,"value":2126,"toc":2189},[2127,2130,2132,2135,2139,2142,2146,2149,2167,2169],[11,2128,2129],{},"Space Wolves are the most texture-rich Space Marines - their kits are loaded with fur, pelts, leather, talismans and bare metal - which makes them a joy for painters who enjoy weathering and detail over clean panels.",[15,2131,18],{"id":17},[11,2133,2134],{},"The armour is a cool blue-grey (lighter and greyer than Ultramarine blue), worn and battered, paired with lots of brown leather, grey/white fur, bronze and steel, and red or yellow pack markings.",[15,2136,2138],{"id":2137},"painting-the-armour","Painting the armour",[11,2140,2141],{},"Use the ramp above for the blue-grey, then lean into wear and tear: sponge or fine-brush chips on the edges, and a light grime wash in the recesses. Space Wolves should look like they have actually been to war.",[15,2143,2145],{"id":2144},"fur-leather-and-metal","Fur, leather and metal",[11,2147,2148],{},"This is where the chapter shines:",[34,2150,2151,2156,2162],{},[37,2152,2153,2155],{},[40,2154,1935],{}," - basecoat grey or brown, wash, then a heavy drybrush up to near-white. Fur is fast and forgiving.",[37,2157,2158,2161],{},[40,2159,2160],{},"Leather"," - brown basecoat, brown wash, light highlight; vary the tones so straps and pouches don't look uniform.",[37,2163,2164,2166],{},[40,2165,1947],{}," - keep it dark and dirty with a brown/black wash; bright steel looks wrong on Space Wolves.",[15,2168,66],{"id":65},[34,2170,2171,2177,2183],{},[37,2172,2173,2176],{},[40,2174,2175],{},"Don't paint the armour too blue."," It is a grey with a blue lean, not a primary blue.",[37,2178,2179,2182],{},[40,2180,2181],{},"Drybrush the fur."," It is the single fastest high-impact technique on these models.",[37,2184,2185,2188],{},[40,2186,2187],{},"Embrace weathering."," Chips, grime and battle damage suit Space Wolves more than any other loyalist chapter.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2190},[2191,2192,2193,2194],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2137,"depth":89,"text":2138},{"id":2144,"depth":89,"text":2145},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Space Wolves - the blue-grey armour, plus the fur, leather, metal and runes that make this the most characterful Space Marine chapter to paint.","/images/factions/space-wolves.webp","#7c8a94","Blue-grey armour, fur, leather and lots of weathering",{},"/factions/space-wolves",{"title":2124,"description":2195},"factions/space-wolves","bTVAZo3TMOctP3J4_CnFxCER5AKgBWttu-Q2h388ho8",{"id":2205,"title":2206,"body":2207,"date":96,"description":2276,"extension":98,"faction":2277,"heroImage":2278,"hex":2279,"intro":2280,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2281,"navigation":104,"path":2282,"seo":2283,"stem":2284,"system":604,"__hash__":2285},"factions/factions/stormcast-eternals.md","How to Paint Stormcast Eternals",{"type":8,"value":2208,"toc":2269},[2209,2212,2214,2217,2219,2230,2233,2237,2240,2244,2247,2249],[11,2210,2211],{},"Stormcast Eternals are Age of Sigmar's flagship faction - big, heroic, gold-armoured warriors. Like Custodes in 40k, the scheme lives or dies on the gold, but the larger model size and bold forms make them satisfying and quick to get a good result on.",[15,2213,18],{"id":17},[11,2215,2216],{},"The Hammers of Sigmar are bright gold armour with deep blue cloth, silver weapons, and bone/parchment details. The gold should be warm and rich, the blue a strong contrast against it.",[15,2218,126],{"id":125},[34,2220,2221,2224,2227],{},[37,2222,2223],{},"Basecoat a bright gold over a dark or metallic undercoat.",[37,2225,2226],{},"Shade heavily with a brown/sepia wash, plus a darker wash in the deepest recesses, to build the depth that makes gold look like gold.",[37,2228,2229],{},"Edge highlight with a brighter gold, then a silver touch on the sharpest points.",[11,2231,2232],{},"A gold basecoat plus a generous wash gets a Stormcast tabletop-ready fast; the edge highlights are what lift them to display level.",[15,2234,2236],{"id":2235},"blue-cloth-and-accents","Blue cloth and accents",[11,2238,2239],{},"The royal blue tabards and cloth are the key contrast - a blue contrast or a basecoat-shade-highlight on the cloth. Silver weapons and bone scrolls round out the scheme.",[15,2241,2243],{"id":2242},"stormhost-variations","Stormhost variations",[11,2245,2246],{},"Swap the cloth and trim for other stormhosts: Celestial Vindicators (teal), Anvils of the Heldenhammer (black/bone), Astral Templars (purple/fur).",[15,2248,66],{"id":65},[34,2250,2251,2257,2263],{},[37,2252,2253,2256],{},[40,2254,2255],{},"Shade the gold deeply."," Depth is what separates gold from flat brass.",[37,2258,2259,2262],{},[40,2260,2261],{},"Strong blue contrast."," The cloth is what stops the model being a gold blob.",[37,2264,2265,2268],{},[40,2266,2267],{},"Big models reward highlights."," The large surfaces show off edge work - use it.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2270},[2271,2272,2273,2274,2275],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":125,"depth":89,"text":126},{"id":2235,"depth":89,"text":2236},{"id":2242,"depth":89,"text":2243},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Stormcast Eternals - the heroic gold armour of the Hammers of Sigmar, with blue cloth and the metallics that define Age of Sigmar's poster boys.","Stormcast Eternals","/images/factions/stormcast-eternals.webp","#c79a3b","Heroic gold armour with blue cloth, the Hammers of Sigmar look",{},"/factions/stormcast-eternals",{"title":2206,"description":2276},"factions/stormcast-eternals","KGejfM-mY71v3b-OMQQgD8A_30PefCqyK8nLMOSo2AE",{"id":2287,"title":2288,"body":2289,"date":96,"description":2360,"extension":98,"faction":2361,"heroImage":2362,"hex":2363,"intro":2364,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2365,"navigation":104,"path":2366,"seo":2367,"stem":2368,"system":604,"__hash__":2369},"factions/factions/sylvaneth.md","How to Paint Sylvaneth",{"type":8,"value":2290,"toc":2354},[2291,2294,2296,2299,2303,2306,2314,2318,2332,2334],[11,2292,2293],{},"Sylvaneth are walking forest spirits - all bark, branches, leaves and roots - which makes them a wonderfully organic, naturalistic army to paint. There are no hard armour panels here; everything is wood, foliage and gentle magic.",[15,2295,18],{"id":17},[11,2297,2298],{},"Pale silver-green or grey bark bodies, deeper green and autumnal (orange, red, brown) foliage, glowing wisps and seed-pods, and soft magical light. The palette can be spring-fresh or autumnal depending on your glade - both look striking.",[15,2300,2302],{"id":2301},"painting-bark-and-wood","Painting bark and wood",[11,2304,2305],{},"The bark bodies are perfect for drybrushing and washes:",[34,2307,2308,2311],{},[37,2309,2310],{},"Basecoat a mid grey-green or brown, wash to sink the grain, then drybrush up to a pale silver-green to catch every knot and ridge.",[37,2312,2313],{},"A wood-effect contrast paint over a bone undercoat is a fast route to natural-looking timber.",[15,2315,2317],{"id":2316},"foliage-and-glow","Foliage and glow",[34,2319,2320,2326],{},[37,2321,2322,2325],{},[40,2323,2324],{},"Leaves"," - vary the greens, and add autumnal reds, oranges and yellows for a richer, more natural look. Contrast paints make multicoloured foliage quick.",[37,2327,2328,2331],{},[40,2329,2330],{},"Wisps and seed-pods"," - the magical glow uses object-source lighting: a bright core (blue, green or amber) glazed softly onto the nearby wood.",[15,2333,66],{"id":65},[34,2335,2336,2342,2348],{},[37,2337,2338,2341],{},[40,2339,2340],{},"Drybrush the bark."," It is the fastest way to bring out the wood-grain texture.",[37,2343,2344,2347],{},[40,2345,2346],{},"Vary the foliage."," A single flat green looks artificial - mix in warm autumn tones.",[37,2349,2350,2353],{},[40,2351,2352],{},"Soft glow."," Keep the magical light gentle and diffuse, not a hard neon.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2355},[2356,2357,2358,2359],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2301,"depth":89,"text":2302},{"id":2316,"depth":89,"text":2317},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Sylvaneth - the bark, wood and autumnal foliage of the forest spirits, with glowing wisps and a natural, organic finish.","Sylvaneth","/images/factions/sylvaneth.webp","#2f6b3a","Bark, wood and autumn leaves with a magical glow",{},"/factions/sylvaneth",{"title":2288,"description":2360},"factions/sylvaneth","Yq6J_LdE-axDdcXBk0MJwQ0hWK_g1zfw7HjhHhF8JwM",{"id":2371,"title":2372,"body":2373,"date":96,"description":2434,"extension":98,"faction":2435,"heroImage":2436,"hex":2437,"intro":2438,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2439,"navigation":104,"path":2440,"seo":2441,"stem":2442,"system":108,"__hash__":2443},"factions/factions/tau.md","How to Paint T'au",{"type":8,"value":2374,"toc":2428},[2375,2378,2380,2383,2387,2390,2401,2405,2408,2410],[11,2376,2377],{},"T'au are the sci-fi army of the setting, and their painting reflects it: large, smooth battlesuit panels, clean colours, and a tidy, almost vehicle-like finish with decals and sept markings. They reward neat basecoating over heavy weathering.",[15,2379,18],{"id":17},[11,2381,2382],{},"The classic T'au Sept scheme is a warm ochre/tan armour with white and dark contrast panels, black recesses, and red or blue accents on lenses and sensors. The look is clean and high-tech - flat, even colour with sharp panel separation.",[15,2384,2386],{"id":2385},"painting-smooth-armour","Painting smooth armour",[11,2388,2389],{},"T'au battlesuits have big flat areas where brush marks and patchiness show, so:",[34,2391,2392,2395,2398],{},[37,2393,2394],{},"Thin your basecoat and do two or three even coats (an airbrush is ideal but not required).",[37,2396,2397],{},"Shade only the panel lines, not the whole panel, to keep the surfaces clean.",[37,2399,2400],{},"Highlight edges crisply - the angular suits suit sharp edge highlights.",[15,2402,2404],{"id":2403},"panels-decals-and-accents","Panels, decals and accents",[11,2406,2407],{},"Break up the ochre with white or dark grey panels and plenty of decals (sept symbols, unit markings). Glowing lenses and pulse-weapon coils in red or blue give the high-tech finish its final pop.",[15,2409,66],{"id":65},[34,2411,2412,2417,2422],{},[37,2413,2414,2416],{},[40,2415,1157],{}," T'au should look manufactured, not battle-worn - go easy on weathering.",[37,2418,2419,2421],{},[40,2420,1081],{}," Shade the recesses only so flat armour stays smooth.",[37,2423,2424,2427],{},[40,2425,2426],{},"Use decals."," They are core to the T'au look and far easier than freehand markings.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2429},[2430,2431,2432,2433],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2385,"depth":89,"text":2386},{"id":2403,"depth":89,"text":2404},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint T'au - the clean ochre-and-white sept scheme, smooth battlesuit armour, and the panel-and-decal look that defines the army.","T'au Sept","/images/factions/tau.webp","#b5651d","Clean ochre battlesuits, smooth panels and crisp decals",{},"/factions/tau",{"title":2372,"description":2434},"factions/tau","ML1aLACSJC3GCxZVz45S1niruxAHn1NDwHclD-m5QDQ",{"id":2445,"title":2446,"body":2447,"date":96,"description":2509,"extension":98,"faction":2510,"heroImage":2511,"hex":2512,"intro":2513,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2514,"navigation":104,"path":2515,"seo":2516,"stem":2517,"system":108,"__hash__":2518},"factions/factions/thousand-sons.md","How to Paint Thousand Sons",{"type":8,"value":2448,"toc":2503},[2449,2452,2454,2457,2461,2474,2478,2481,2483],[11,2450,2451],{},"Thousand Sons are one of the most ornate and rewarding armies to paint - a rich blue-and-gold scheme covered in intricate trim, with plenty of opportunity for glowing warpfire and magical effects.",[15,2453,18],{"id":17},[11,2455,2456],{},"Deep teal/blue armour with extensive gold trim, blue-and-gold tabards, and blue or pink warpfire on weapons and around the Rubric Marines' empty armour. The gold-to-blue ratio is high, so neat trim work pays off.",[15,2458,2460],{"id":2459},"painting-the-blue-and-gold","Painting the blue and gold",[34,2462,2463,2469],{},[37,2464,2465,2468],{},[40,2466,2467],{},"Blue"," - use the ramp above for a saturated teal-blue. A blue contrast over gold-tinted or white undercoat speeds up the basecoat.",[37,2470,2471,2473],{},[40,2472,48],{}," - this is half the model. Basecoat a bright gold, shade with a brown or sepia wash, and highlight the edges with a lighter gold or silver. Good gold trim is what makes Thousand Sons look premium.",[15,2475,2477],{"id":2476},"warpfire-and-magic","Warpfire and magic",[11,2479,2480],{},"The blue or pink flame effects use object-source lighting: bright core fading to a glaze of the same colour on nearby surfaces. A bright blue technical/contrast paint in the eyes and weapon glows ties the army's magical theme together.",[15,2482,66],{"id":65},[34,2484,2485,2491,2497],{},[37,2486,2487,2490],{},[40,2488,2489],{},"Invest in the gold."," Washed and edge-highlighted gold trim is the centrepiece - don't rush it.",[37,2492,2493,2496],{},[40,2494,2495],{},"Keep the blue rich."," A teal lean reads more \"Tzeentch sorcery\" than a plain royal blue.",[37,2498,2499,2502],{},[40,2500,2501],{},"Add a magic accent."," A consistent warpfire colour across the army looks deliberate and cohesive.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2504},[2505,2506,2507,2508],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2459,"depth":89,"text":2460},{"id":2476,"depth":89,"text":2477},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Thousand Sons - the blue-and-gold armour, with tips for the rich teal-blue, ornate gold trim and warpfire magic effects.","Thousand Sons","/images/factions/thousand-sons.webp","#1f6f8b","Blue-and-gold armour and warpfire magic effects",{},"/factions/thousand-sons",{"title":2446,"description":2509},"factions/thousand-sons","GcbnO-Fi8ouFUNhqOg5ESa0bA4pfS36pV9gG8c-j-Hk",{"id":2520,"title":2521,"body":2522,"date":96,"description":2604,"extension":98,"faction":2605,"heroImage":2606,"hex":2607,"intro":2608,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2609,"navigation":104,"path":2610,"seo":2611,"stem":2612,"system":108,"__hash__":2613},"factions/factions/tyranids.md","How to Paint Tyranids",{"type":8,"value":2523,"toc":2598},[2524,2527,2529,2544,2548,2567,2570,2574,2577,2579],[11,2525,2526],{},"Tyranids are a horde army, so the goal is a striking, cohesive scheme you can apply quickly across dozens of models. The classic split is a hard carapace colour against a contrasting softer skin/flesh, and contrast paints make both fast.",[15,2528,18],{"id":17},[11,2530,2531,2532,2535,2536,2539,2540,2543],{},"A hive fleet scheme is built from two or three colours: a ",[40,2533,2534],{},"carapace"," (the hard plates), a ",[40,2537,2538],{},"skin/flesh"," (the muscle and limbs), and ",[40,2541,2542],{},"claws/teeth"," (bone). Hive Fleet Leviathan, for example, pairs a purple carapace with pale bone skin. Pick a carapace and a complementary skin and you have an instantly recognisable fleet.",[15,2545,2547],{"id":2546},"painting-a-horde-fast","Painting a horde fast",[34,2549,2550,2556,2561],{},[37,2551,2552,2555],{},[40,2553,2554],{},"Carapace"," - the recipe above gives the ramp; a contrast paint over the right undercoat does it in one pass on small models.",[37,2557,2558,2560],{},[40,2559,552],{}," - a flesh or bone contrast over a light undercoat, shaded automatically.",[37,2562,2563,2566],{},[40,2564,2565],{},"Claws and teeth"," - bone basecoat, brown wash, light drybrush.",[11,2568,2569],{},"A zenithal undercoat (dark up to light) under contrast paints does most of the shading for you - ideal for getting a hundred gaunts painted.",[15,2571,2573],{"id":2572},"hive-fleet-variations","Hive fleet variations",[11,2575,2576],{},"Swap the two main colours to invent your own fleet, or follow the classics: Leviathan (purple/bone), Hive Fleet Kraken (purple/cream), Behemoth (red/bone), Gorgon (green/purple).",[15,2578,66],{"id":65},[34,2580,2581,2587,2592],{},[37,2582,2583,2586],{},[40,2584,2585],{},"Two colours, applied well, beats five rushed ones."," Keep the scheme simple for a horde.",[37,2588,2589,2591],{},[40,2590,836],{}," They are made for organic, textured models like these.",[37,2593,2594,2597],{},[40,2595,2596],{},"Batch ruthlessly."," Do every model's carapace, then every model's skin - never one model at a time.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2599},[2600,2601,2602,2603],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2546,"depth":89,"text":2547},{"id":2572,"depth":89,"text":2573},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint Tyranids fast - the carapace-and-skin approach used by hive fleets like Leviathan, with quick contrast methods for painting a horde.","Tyranids","/images/factions/tyranids.webp","#6a4b8a","Carapace, skin and chitin done fast for a whole hive fleet",{},"/factions/tyranids",{"title":2521,"description":2604},"factions/tyranids","Rh7QILW3Nl2Z_j2VSmtFy9iqj2-RWHSguSEheqIwe9k",{"id":2615,"title":2616,"body":2617,"date":96,"description":2683,"extension":98,"faction":2684,"heroImage":2685,"hex":2686,"intro":2687,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2688,"navigation":104,"path":2689,"seo":2690,"stem":2691,"system":108,"__hash__":2692},"factions/factions/white-scars.md","How to Paint White Scars",{"type":8,"value":2618,"toc":2677},[2619,2622,2624,2627,2631,2634,2645,2648,2652,2655,2657],[11,2620,2621],{},"White Scars are white armour with red trim and tribal markings - a fast, high-contrast scheme once you understand that \"white\" is really a ramp of greys finishing in white, not a single flat colour.",[15,2623,18],{"id":17},[11,2625,2626],{},"Bright white armour, bold red shoulder trim and weapons, gold detailing, and black-and-white tribal patterns. The white needs subtle shading to show form, or the models read as flat blobs.",[15,2628,2630],{"id":2629},"painting-white","Painting white",[11,2632,2633],{},"White straight from the pot over recesses looks chalky and shapeless. Instead:",[34,2635,2636,2639,2642],{},[37,2637,2638],{},"Undercoat grey or use a zenithal (black up to white from above).",[37,2640,2641],{},"Glaze or wash a thin grey/blue into the recesses to define panels.",[37,2643,2644],{},"Layer clean white on the raised areas and edges.",[11,2646,2647],{},"A grey contrast or a thin grey wash over a white undercoat is the quick route - it shades the recesses for you.",[15,2649,2651],{"id":2650},"red-and-tribal-markings","Red and tribal markings",[11,2653,2654],{},"Red shoulders and weapons pop against the white. The lightning/tribal markings are freehand but simple - thin red or black lines following the armour shapes. Practise on a spare model first.",[15,2656,66],{"id":65},[34,2658,2659,2665,2671],{},[37,2660,2661,2664],{},[40,2662,2663],{},"Shade white, don't leave it pure."," Some grey in the recesses is what makes white look painted.",[37,2666,2667,2670],{},[40,2668,2669],{},"Keep recesses cool."," A blue-grey shade looks cleaner than a brown one on white.",[37,2672,2673,2676],{},[40,2674,2675],{},"Two thin coats."," Thick white is the chalkiest finish of all.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2678},[2679,2680,2681,2682],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2629,"depth":89,"text":2630},{"id":2650,"depth":89,"text":2651},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint White Scars - clean white armour with red detailing, including how to paint convincing white without it looking flat or grey.","White Scars","/images/factions/white-scars.webp","#e6e8ea","Clean white armour with red detailing",{},"/factions/white-scars",{"title":2616,"description":2683},"factions/white-scars","iMNRmguSaWKc46z3vlezNa0gD46RdbeRZi9r91QYfoA",{"id":2694,"title":2695,"body":2696,"date":96,"description":2774,"extension":98,"faction":2775,"heroImage":2776,"hex":2777,"intro":2778,"lastUpdated":96,"meta":2779,"navigation":104,"path":2780,"seo":2781,"stem":2782,"system":108,"__hash__":2783},"factions/factions/world-eaters.md","How to Paint World Eaters",{"type":8,"value":2697,"toc":2768},[2698,2701,2703,2706,2710,2729,2733,2736,2747,2749],[11,2699,2700],{},"World Eaters are a fast, brutal army to paint - red and white armour, brass trim, and as much blood, gore and battle damage as you care to add. Precision is not the point; impact is.",[15,2702,18],{"id":17},[11,2704,2705],{},"The classic scheme splits red and white armour panels with blue or brass trim, heavy weathering, and liberal blood effects. It should look savage and battle-worn, not clean.",[15,2707,2709],{"id":2708},"painting-the-red-and-white","Painting the red and white",[34,2711,2712,2717,2723],{},[37,2713,2714,2716],{},[40,2715,546],{}," - a red contrast over a light undercoat gives fast, glossy coverage; edge highlight orange-red.",[37,2718,2719,2722],{},[40,2720,2721],{},"White"," - shade with a grey wash so the white panels show form against the red.",[37,2724,2725,2728],{},[40,2726,2727],{},"Brass/bronze"," trim - basecoat, brown wash, light highlight; let it look tarnished.",[15,2730,2732],{"id":2731},"blood-gore-and-damage","Blood, gore and damage",[11,2734,2735],{},"This is the fun part:",[34,2737,2738,2741,2744],{},[37,2739,2740],{},"Sponge silver and dark metal chips along all the edges for battle damage.",[37,2742,2743],{},"Use a \"blood for the blood god\" type technical gloss on blades, fists and trophies.",[37,2745,2746],{},"Rust and grime in the recesses sell the relentless-warfare theme.",[15,2748,66],{"id":65},[34,2750,2751,2757,2763],{},[37,2752,2753,2756],{},[40,2754,2755],{},"Lean into mess."," Sloppy chips and pooled blood look intentional here.",[37,2758,2759,2762],{},[40,2760,2761],{},"Contrast the panels."," The red/white split is what makes the scheme read - keep both clean enough to tell apart.",[37,2764,2765,2767],{},[40,2766,587],{}," Matt blood looks like paint; gloss looks wet and fresh.",{"title":88,"searchDepth":89,"depth":89,"links":2769},[2770,2771,2772,2773],{"id":17,"depth":89,"text":18},{"id":2708,"depth":89,"text":2709},{"id":2731,"depth":89,"text":2732},{"id":65,"depth":89,"text":66},"How to paint World Eaters - the brutal blue-trimmed red and white armour, brass and plenty of blood and battle damage.","World Eaters","/images/factions/world-eaters.webp","#b21f1f","Red and white armour, brass, and lots of blood",{},"/factions/world-eaters",{"title":2695,"description":2774},"factions/world-eaters","D0mY0QlnYVT1-Lb_uAaxCsTv2hqOtNvpTV2FB0B8MWI"]